You can help me out by using these affiliate links to the different products used in this video! 10ton Hydraulic crimpers www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR8BY65/?tag=Hifivega5-20 Propane Torch Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL53S0W/?tag=Hifivega5-20 Sky High Lugs www.amazon.com/dp/B015IFGC4Y/?tag=Hifivega5-20
Thank you 🙂 I've made my own 12V battery connection cables DIYer 4WD - and I made my own lugs from copper water pipes, sized according to application. I used the solder in method, with 100% success. Thank you for your clear and informative video 👍
Awesome thank you HiFi for a Very well detailed video audio tutorial commentary demo & editing Cheap Harbor Freight grinders for the win, I literally bought half a dozen of them. Got them all over the garage. Can't ever have enough. Always reaching for one. Hardly ever have to change flaps, wheels or blades. Just reach for another one. Just like having multiple tape measures around you can never have enough. Your theory & testing are top notch aka " Project Farmer " good stuff 👍 un bias as always
Flux, crimp, solder to fill any voids. The flux will pull the solder into any air pockets or gaps. Preventing any arcing or corrosion forming inside the lug. That’s where the benefits lie.... Great video though....
I have a Mechman alternator and dual batteries under my hood. I have several runs of 0ga. I also use Sky High Car Audio lugs and heat shrink, with a hydraulic crimper. Over time, they've all eventually failed. I believe it's simply due to several heating/cooling cycles, changes in seasonal weather, the metals expanding and contracting. I think the best method is a combination of crimping and soldering, which is what I'm going to do moving forward.
How about if you break a lug due to improper crimp point (copper w zinc coat) a part not readily available, and need the job done now. Is it possible to braze the lug and re-crimp. 480 volts 400 amps. Marine cable 400. Don’t know what that translates to in awg. Basically 1 inch diameter. And it’s not welding cable fine strand crap. Each strand is about equivalent to 14-16 ga.
@@jeffb8562For what it's worth, that welding cable fine crap has more copper (less resistance) than the stiff large wire cable you are speaking of. Class K welding cable is by far the most commonly used welding cable, but Class M welding cable has even more copper and more strands (about 12.5% more than Class K). It's use is simply limited because of it's price. Welding cable likes to be crimped, your type of heavy cable is much better off being soldered as the solder fills in the large voids between the strands that are inherent with using any large stranded wire, hence making the point of attachment between cable and lug both stronger as well as lowering the risk of developing any potential corrosion issues by reducing the amount of exposed surface area on the strands themselves. 🧐
Such a good part! And no worries because you know your work is quality here! I think this would be my preferred method also! Nothing more safe and clean then a warm up with a choice part! No cut open for me! Saulder dip, I'm happy with that! For the sake of all the old internet parts here and there, and a small part outside of the net
If you don't have that hydraulic crimper could you still crimp the wire lug on with a swagging tool crimper it's where they're around on both sides and maybe just tape down a steel ball like from a bearing on one of the round sides of the swagging tool so when you crimp it it leaves an indent on one side of the lug you think that would do just as well?
In the engine bay, I use straight crimped connectors with no solder - just more afraid of solder breaking down from the constant hot cold cycling (it's just a fear of mine and has no actual reasoning based on any fact or science). But everywhere else, I'll strip the wire ends a little long, tin the wire ends to prevent fraying, cut the tinned ends down to fit the crimp end perfectly, and then I'll crimp the end to the tined wire. I'm not saying it's the best, it's just what I do for no reason other then doing it. It's likely the most time consuming method. Funny enough, I do actually enjoy wiring - the anticipation of everything coming together so I can bump up the volume. :-) Good video!
@@HifiVega Well, I decided to check into it a little, and it seams what I've been doing likely is the worst thing to do (the two big problems would be an increases resistance at the joint while making the joint more prone to breaking esp if it gets flexed). There does seem to be some merit in soldering over an already crimped connection though in regards to improved corrosion resistance (and it won't cause either problem). I'm just going to use one or the other method moving forward.
The problem with method 2 is you added solder to the wire side and wicked it up inside the cable jacket as well… that being said it makes the cable more brittle and can potentially break the wire there. The first is a decent and very commonly used and the last is the best way. My question is what about soldering it first as in your first example and then crimp because why not. High resistance connections / high amp draw over time can cause the solder to loosen up unless you use higher temp solder. Such as pure silver solder.
Good idea, i have 4/0 XL sky high lugs, they cost quit a bit. I recently upgraded amps and have to change witing configuration and im spending about 30 dollars to replace those crimped lugs/heatshrink altogether
The purpose of the solder is to prevent oxidation. That’s it. Any mechanical strengthening is purely incidental. Crimping followed by soldering provides the best of both worlds, so long as you are careful not to allow solder to wick into the wire above the lug where it will create a weak point if/when the wire is flexed.
I think if you soldered just the inside of the lug then you crimped in a cable and then heated the lug you would fill all the voids in the lug and cold weld your conductor. When I make my crimps I flood the lug with Dielectric Grease and it actually sometimes comes out of the seem around the hole in the ring terminal.
3 years late to this party but what I normally do is so some solder and then crimp and that makes sure I have a good permeant bound. I know it seems like overkill, but the extra step doesn't take much more time.
I'm back on TH-cam again brother excellent good job. I didn't think that basshead's still use that method for putting the wires in lugs together. Good to see its still being used
Solder and crimp? Don't forget you'll get a cold joint if you crimp something that is soldered (because solder flows under pressure). Better yet, don't solder at all if you don't have to. Crimps are stronger and better conductors.
Hi and thank you for your video, can you please tell me what kind of solder rosen core you are using, I need to do what your doing to solder new terminals for battery post on my car
Thank you for replying. I'm not trying to be disrespectful, rude or mean with the following comment/question. AND HERE IT GO... I was thinking about how you dissect the crip connections with the angle grinder cut off wheel whatever. My thought was that is it possible that the grinding wheel could actually be flattening filling in the spaces and making it look like it's a complete solid crimp cold solder cuz the friction of the blade spinning so fast might be filling in gaps I don't know it's just a thought. I'm going to try that and then try one using a hacksaw slower less friction than heat and see if the same results thanks for your information and hard work.
@@greyslick3411 I’ve absolutely thought of the same thing as well and next time I do it I planned on using a hacksaw for the very same reason. I’m always open to constructive suggestions and even criticism. I appreciate everyone in the communities perspectives and it gives me great ideas on future videos and where I can improve
@@HifiVega oh great minds do think alike that's some real quantum entanglement shit there. I've been watching TH-cam since it's beginning and no one's ever replied to any of my comments (in a positive way) this is the first time I've ever had a chat with someone through TH-cam thank you..
I have those same hydraulic crimpers I usually crimp a lug then turn it 180° then crimp it again that will get rid of the wings. also have a set of industrial crimpers that will do the big stuff with one stroke😎
@@HifiVega yes you sound like your work is like mine I work at a electric motor rewind shop I get unlimited lugs,connectors, wire heatshrink, all the goodies haha.
That cold weld is beautiful, thank you for the awesome video. Crimping is always the best option if the situation allows and you have the tools. One correction though, I don't think anyone believes soldered connections offer better sound or electrical conduction, they simply don't, and everyone knows crimping is ideal.
@Joachim Shekelberg not if you do it right. I'm talking like four through 0 AWG. The vice covers the whole surface area of the lug. So it's crimped evenly from top to bottom
Great vid! I hate soldering those types of lugs, but have done it many times in a pinch. Yes be sure to strip the jacket back far enough, it does look ugly but nothing a little heat shrink cant cover and make look good!
How would that be compared to the hydraulic crimping and could you hydraulically crimp afterwords would that make any difference or just a waste of time
Nice Vlog bro! Very informative. I agree with the crimped vs soldering. The soldered connectors just seem like they would have some voltage drop. Not sure how conductive solder is.
That crimp on is NOT a 'cold weld' or ANY weld, that happened when you cut it. The wheel 'smears' it when you cut through it. If you cut that and mount it in an epoxy (w vaccum to protect voids) you would see that the wires are only contacting terminal in few areas- soldering makes contact everywhere by filling these 'voids'. (Basically, you need a proper way to cut without 'smearing' the metals together to really see whats going on in there). 😉
I have cut these open with a hacksaw in my other videos with the same result and on top of that I’ve cut many with a grinder (on video) where bare wire strands are still showing
You should have added some flux to the wire too. The solder would have soaked in into the strands. You would be surprised how much it would have soaked in.
l never use flux when l solder, l have personally never noticed the difference with or without it. some people get those cold solder joints without it but l have never had that problem. my solder joints are actually pretty clean and solid.
chris niner the truth of the matter is solder does nothing, but quicken the time for corrosion to set up. A cold weld (hydraulic crimp) will outperform a crimp with solder all day long.
Daniel King I did a ton of research and from everything I’ve seen they are equal, basically the electrical advantage you get from soldering is negligible.
You can help me out by using these affiliate links to the different products used in this video!
10ton Hydraulic crimpers
www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR8BY65/?tag=Hifivega5-20
Propane Torch Kit
www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL53S0W/?tag=Hifivega5-20
Sky High Lugs
www.amazon.com/dp/B015IFGC4Y/?tag=Hifivega5-20
HifiVega hey Rob just wanted to let you know that Pandora is now running podcast aswell got to get the 12vT in there man keep on doing what ya do
Michael Hemric That’s awesome!
Big d wiz family???
Thank you 🙂
I've made my own 12V battery connection cables DIYer 4WD - and I made my own lugs from copper water pipes, sized according to application. I used the solder in method, with 100% success.
Thank you for your clear and informative video 👍
Awesome thank you HiFi for a
Very well detailed video audio tutorial commentary demo & editing
Cheap Harbor Freight grinders for the win, I literally bought half a dozen of them. Got them all over the garage. Can't ever have enough. Always reaching for one. Hardly ever have to change flaps, wheels or blades. Just reach for another one. Just like having multiple tape measures around you can never have enough. Your theory & testing are top notch aka " Project Farmer " good stuff 👍 un bias as always
Flux, crimp, solder to fill any voids. The flux will pull the solder into any air pockets or gaps. Preventing any arcing or corrosion forming inside the lug. That’s where the benefits lie.... Great video though....
I have a Mechman alternator and dual batteries under my hood. I have several runs of 0ga. I also use Sky High Car Audio lugs and heat shrink, with a hydraulic crimper. Over time, they've all eventually failed. I believe it's simply due to several heating/cooling cycles, changes in seasonal weather, the metals expanding and contracting. I think the best method is a combination of crimping and soldering, which is what I'm going to do moving forward.
How did it go with soldering ?
Doesn’t solder melt when high Amperage like 200A
@dreamcarvalley2443 still going strong
@@dreamcarvalley2443 no. Heat comes from resistance, not amperage.
This was my first find on the topic and it was simple easy and to the point!!! Thank you for this!
Thanks for watching
How about if you break a lug due to improper crimp point (copper w zinc coat) a part not readily available, and need the job done now. Is it possible to braze the lug and re-crimp. 480 volts 400 amps. Marine cable 400. Don’t know what that translates to in awg. Basically 1 inch diameter. And it’s not welding cable fine strand crap. Each strand is about equivalent to 14-16 ga.
@@jeffb8562For what it's worth, that welding cable fine crap has more copper (less resistance) than the stiff large wire cable you are speaking of. Class K welding cable is by far the most commonly used welding cable, but Class M welding cable has even more copper and more strands (about 12.5% more than Class K). It's use is simply limited because of it's price. Welding cable likes to be crimped, your type of heavy cable is much better off being soldered as the solder fills in the large voids between the strands that are inherent with using any large stranded wire, hence making the point of attachment between cable and lug both stronger as well as lowering the risk of developing any potential corrosion issues by reducing the amount of exposed surface area on the strands themselves. 🧐
Nothing beats by dipping that thickness in a solder pot.
Then inserting it, like what you've shown, finishing the process.
Best video on TH-cam on soldering 0 gauge to ring terminals
Appreciate that!
Such a good part! And no worries because you know your work is quality here! I think this would be my preferred method also! Nothing more safe and clean then a warm up with a choice part! No cut open for me! Saulder dip, I'm happy with that! For the sake of all the old internet parts here and there, and a small part outside of the net
Love this testing!!! Thank you for making this!
Nice work. I like the solder methods.
Thanks
If you don't have that hydraulic crimper could you still crimp the wire lug on with a swagging tool crimper it's where they're around on both sides and maybe just tape down a steel ball like from a bearing on one of the round sides of the swagging tool so when you crimp it it leaves an indent on one side of the lug you think that would do just as well?
Awesome job cutting them open to see the Inside 2 thumbs up
Kevin Willis Thanks!
Looks like the crimp/cold weld FTW!
Very informative video Rob. Gotta grab one of those hydraulic crimpers. Thanks!
MSH68 Indeed!
In the engine bay, I use straight crimped connectors with no solder - just more afraid of solder breaking down from the constant hot cold cycling (it's just a fear of mine and has no actual reasoning based on any fact or science). But everywhere else, I'll strip the wire ends a little long, tin the wire ends to prevent fraying, cut the tinned ends down to fit the crimp end perfectly, and then I'll crimp the end to the tined wire. I'm not saying it's the best, it's just what I do for no reason other then doing it. It's likely the most time consuming method. Funny enough, I do actually enjoy wiring - the anticipation of everything coming together so I can bump up the volume. :-) Good video!
We do very high amperage battery arrays at work and not a drop of solder is applied. That being said I had a lot of requests on this method.
@@HifiVega Well, I decided to check into it a little, and it seams what I've been doing likely is the worst thing to do (the two big problems would be an increases resistance at the joint while making the joint more prone to breaking esp if it gets flexed). There does seem to be some merit in soldering over an already crimped connection though in regards to improved corrosion resistance (and it won't cause either problem). I'm just going to use one or the other method moving forward.
The problem with method 2 is you added solder to the wire side and wicked it up inside the cable jacket as well… that being said it makes the cable more brittle and can potentially break the wire there. The first is a decent and very commonly used and the last is the best way. My question is what about soldering it first as in your first example and then crimp because why not. High resistance connections / high amp draw over time can cause the solder to loosen up unless you use higher temp solder. Such as pure silver solder.
I prefer a cold welded hydraulic crimp, but a lot of folks wondered about soldering a lug so that’s why I did this video.
I agree, I much prefer crimping the lugs. Easier, quicker, efficient, and less mess.
Thx I don’t have crimp and have plenty solder looks like it will work and I can always melt solder out and re use unlike crimping!
Good idea, i have 4/0 XL sky high lugs, they cost quit a bit. I recently upgraded amps and have to change witing configuration and im spending about 30 dollars to replace those crimped lugs/heatshrink altogether
Great video. 9/10. Would have been perfect if you measured each one for resistance!
Big help. Great comparison
Love your work. As always a very informative video.
Mark French Thank you!
The purpose of the solder is to prevent oxidation. That’s it. Any mechanical strengthening is purely incidental. Crimping followed by soldering provides the best of both worlds, so long as you are careful not to allow solder to wick into the wire above the lug where it will create a weak point if/when the wire is flexed.
I didn't think the crimp would be the best, but it is.
I think if you soldered just the inside of the lug then you crimped in a cable and then heated the lug you would fill all the voids in the lug and cold weld your conductor.
When I make my crimps I flood the lug with Dielectric Grease and it actually sometimes comes out of the seem around the hole in the ring terminal.
3 years late to this party but what I normally do is so some solder and then crimp and that makes sure I have a good permeant bound. I know it seems like overkill, but the extra step doesn't take much more time.
I use both methods together. First a strong mechanical crimp, then I Solder. Together, they are solid and electrically bonded.
I'm back on TH-cam again brother excellent good job. I didn't think that basshead's still use that method for putting the wires in lugs together. Good to see its still being used
PSE Mentalist I don’t see it a lot, but when I did how to crimp a lug I got a lot of requests to see this.
Excellent and thorough presentation. Thanks.
Thanks! I just watched the crimp video and this one, I’m going to solder and crimp!
Darren Langley excellent! I love hearing this kinda stuff
Solder and crimp? Don't forget you'll get a cold joint if you crimp something that is soldered (because solder flows under pressure). Better yet, don't solder at all if you don't have to. Crimps are stronger and better conductors.
Hi and thank you for your video, can you please tell me what kind of solder rosen core you are using, I need to do what your doing to solder new terminals for battery post on my car
97/3 lead free rosin core
You can take 1 Strand and tie it around the loose wire to keep it tight.
Can I have info what can of soder u using wand flux yanks
It’s just a lead free rosin core solder and water soluble flux
Ok tanks , my tubin is brass and the wire is cooper like welding lead
So can u give me idea to weld brass and wire cooper together
Why not as an extra measure add solder to the lug using the hydraulic crimper? Good video!
Did you happen to put a meter on and check the resistance of each one of those cables see if they're going to pass electricity without heating up?
I did not, but it’s something I need to do in a future video for sure
Thank you for replying.
I'm not trying to be disrespectful, rude or mean with the following comment/question.
AND HERE IT GO...
I was thinking about how you dissect the crip connections with the angle grinder cut off wheel whatever. My thought was that is it possible that the grinding wheel could actually be flattening filling in the spaces and making it look like it's a complete solid crimp cold solder cuz the friction of the blade spinning so fast might be filling in gaps I don't know it's just a thought. I'm going to try that and then try one using a hacksaw slower less friction than heat and see if the same results thanks for your information and hard work.
@@greyslick3411 I’ve absolutely thought of the same thing as well and next time I do it I planned on using a hacksaw for the very same reason. I’m always open to constructive suggestions and even criticism. I appreciate everyone in the communities perspectives and it gives me great ideas on future videos and where I can improve
@@HifiVega oh great minds do think alike that's some real quantum entanglement shit there.
I've been watching TH-cam since it's beginning and no one's ever replied to any of my comments (in a positive way) this is the first time I've ever had a chat with someone through TH-cam thank you..
Excellent video !
Does solder wire has more electrical resistant than copper?
I believe it does, but I haven’t personally tested it yet.
Good job on the video
Brian Patterson thanks
I have those same hydraulic crimpers I usually crimp a lug then turn it 180° then crimp it again that will get rid of the wings. also have a set of industrial crimpers that will do the big stuff with one stroke😎
eric dudley we use the big battery powered crimpers at work and they’re legit!
@@HifiVega yes you sound like your work is like mine I work at a electric motor rewind shop I get unlimited lugs,connectors, wire heatshrink, all the goodies haha.
eric dudley I build industrial batteries as well as forklift batteries
That cold weld is beautiful, thank you for the awesome video. Crimping is always the best option if the situation allows and you have the tools. One correction though, I don't think anyone believes soldered connections offer better sound or electrical conduction, they simply don't, and everyone knows crimping is ideal.
Totally agree!
A bench vise makes a great crimper for big awg cable.
@Joachim Shekelberg not if you do it right. I'm talking like four through 0 AWG. The vice covers the whole surface area of the lug. So it's crimped evenly from top to bottom
Where did you find that little vise? I could use one of those.
Harbor Freight. They’re about $25
Nice work!
Great vid! I hate soldering those types of lugs, but have done it many times in a pinch. Yes be sure to strip the jacket back far enough, it does look ugly but nothing a little heat shrink cant cover and make look good!
#Basscop hydraulic crimp for the win!
@@HifiVega I'm still on the fence as to what is the best, I think alot depends on the application.
Master of Puppets. Great album. If Battery doesn't rip and tear you away than nothing will.
How would that be compared to the hydraulic crimping and could you hydraulically crimp afterwords would that make any difference or just a waste of time
Gary Priest personally I’d just do the hydraulic crimp only
Thanks for this video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Nice Vlog bro! Very informative. I agree with the crimped vs soldering. The soldered connectors just seem like they would have some voltage drop. Not sure how conductive solder is.
Charles Norris Thanks! I’ve seen it tested in a few videos and it seems to be about the same either way, but imo the crimp will last longer overall.
@@HifiVega Solder is more resistive than Copper, and Silver is a little more conductive than Copper.
That crimp on is NOT a 'cold weld' or ANY weld, that happened when you cut it. The wheel 'smears' it when you cut through it. If you cut that and mount it in an epoxy (w vaccum to protect voids) you would see that the wires are only contacting terminal in few areas- soldering makes contact everywhere by filling these 'voids'. (Basically, you need a proper way to cut without 'smearing' the metals together to really see whats going on in there). 😉
I have cut these open with a hacksaw in my other videos with the same result and on top of that I’ve cut many with a grinder (on video) where bare wire strands are still showing
You should have added some flux to the wire too. The solder would have soaked in into the strands. You would be surprised how much it would have soaked in.
l never use flux when l solder, l have personally never noticed the difference with or without it. some people get those cold solder joints without it but l have never had that problem. my solder joints are actually pretty clean and solid.
Electronics For Fun it makes it quicker to get full bleed through in my experience.
@@HifiVega yeah you should use flux, l just too cheap. l am the kind of guy who picks up a penny on the street lol.
That's crazy talent. Thank you for techniques. Love the content. Already Subscribed, leaving a like and Supporting all the way ✌️👍
Urdu Tech Gaming Thanks!
Great info...thanks
Useful video. Any thoughts about using 60/40 instead of lead-free solder? Does 60/40 reduce the conductivity of the terminal?
I’m not sure I’d hafta try and test that
60/40 will be much easier to work with. Tin/lead. The more lead the lower the melting point.
Without lead, solder is difficult to use.
Great vid. I have that same crimper.
Joaquin Juarez money well spent
Unfortunately the wires are attached to my car. 😔. Want to hook up to the battery terminal wire
I solder, mash in vice and then heat shrink around connection
Hands down hydraulic force is a cleaner connecttion inside and out.
Never seen someone use a torch before
Good job bro
Ramon R. Thanks!
Curious about the intro song
Battery - Metallica
@@HifiVega Much Appreciated!!!!!!!!! 🙏🏾💯
Dang. I wish I had watched this last night...since I’m too cheap to buy crimpers, I just used my bench vise to crimp the lugs on my 4 ga wire.
Michael Young I actually tested that as well!
th-cam.com/video/smWmm8IiEOM/w-d-xo.html
@@HifiVega that video is private
We crimp and solder our cables - extra strength
Thanks for the info HifiVega!! Also can you do a vídeo on 12vTalk on the differece between Brazilian amps vs Korean amps!
Edrick Mendez Thanks! That would be a good topic. Big D is much more knowledgeable on that subject than I am though..,
@@HifiVega awesome let him know
Thank you
Was told to never solder a lug?
Well don't do it then
And I thought I only crimped, because im lazy...who knew I what doing it the best way. :)
Alpha Omega For the win!
Never solder a connector over 10a
High amperage = heat. Solder can remelt
Please no soldering of high amperage cables . You'll only increase the resistance of amperage flow .
Crimp and then solder.... Solder isn't meant to physically hold anything together... You are not welding.... Solder is to make it electrically sound
chris niner the truth of the matter is solder does nothing, but quicken the time for corrosion to set up. A cold weld (hydraulic crimp) will outperform a crimp with solder all day long.
Use the soldering method and never buy another same size lug again.
Solder not so good for heat, vibration, and corosive places, like in motors or out in the weather. Especially salt.
Crimped connections are ONLY as good as the crimper and the terminal. I've seen some really badly done crimp connections.
Stepside1986 true, but I feel like that’s the case for any method.
personally flux dip cable Hydro crimp (12ton) then wick with solder much much Mo betta.......
Run voltage through them next time. That’s what I thought you were gonna do...
Daniel King I did a ton of research and from everything I’ve seen they are equal, basically the electrical advantage you get from soldering is negligible.
First two methods were the same
"How to solder a lug"? DON'T! (Especially in automotive, always use the propper crimping tool!
noise!!
Not good