I found your channel yesterday and have enjoyed following your journey. I grew up with pigeons and would love the chance to get into the sport now but unfortunately know I’d never get planning permission through for a loft where i live, so i must live vicariously through others!!
There's only one option... You'll have to move 😄 Although if you get in touch with your local club you might find someone willing to let you get involved.
I've just binge watched all this series I'm looking at getting into the hobby I live in Bradford Is it best to get the loft set up first then get pigeons?
Great. Hope you've enjoyed it. I would say getting the loft sorted should be a priority but it depends when you intend to start flying. Young bird season is only 6 or 7 weeks away so if you could get some young birds soon you might just catch the middle of it. But if you're only just looking into it it might be a bit soon unless you have someone local who's willing to mentor you. It took me about 3 or 4 years from deciding I want to race pigeons to actually getting any. Join the Facebook group 'novice/newcomers to racing pigeons' (and ours while you're there) and you'll get loads of help, possibly from someone local too 👍
If you have to ask a question should I get the shed first and then the pigeons. Then I suggest you don’t get the pigeons because you are too stupid to have pigeons
They only look like s secondary flights to me??, that is all the smaller flights following the 10 PRIMARY FLIGHTS furthest from the body when the wing is fully extended , if so that's not to bad, but if they start throwing primary flights well then all you're hard work will have been in vain, from what I seen the loft is dark enough. Soon be time 2 basket them and train them, start 2-3 miles away just 2 get them used 2 leaving the basket and home and straight in and feed linseed as this a very small and healthy feed untill all or most have came home, increase up in distance up to 30-40 miles slowly 5 days a week b4 first race and buy a scales and weigh there food, a week b4 there first race they should be eating 3/4's of an ounce only and increase as races go up in distance, and with the linnseed they can eat loads and it passes time untill all are home and feed the weighed mix then, and if you watch them all eat at once, some will eat less than there 3/4's of an ounce get a drink and fly up 2 there perch, and that's when you no there in really good form. They Will have strong mussels but very light to handle, and never feed basketing day. I hope this information is of some help 2 you, it's a lot 2 taken on board, but that's 1 of the joys of pigeons racing, you are all ways learning
Thanks for the info. That's what I hope to do. I'll pick up some linseed this week. Would you normally train them while they're still on darkness? I was going to wait for them to come off as they're not ranging yet. I've heard they won't while they're on darkness. Thank for the tips 👍
No problem, I just wish some1 had told me more about racing in my early days instead of 10+ years later, I would not be worried about them ranging if they are getting 45-1 hour+ around the loft, from you're videos what I can see is that you're younger ones are holding back you're older ones, so maybe let the older ones out first and the younger ones out either when the older ones have had a good fly, or else put up more V perches in you're first section and section them apart as you would if you had a bigger loft with many sections, problem is you're trap, May be add 1 to the other section so each section has its own, and train and fly the older ones separately, and then start training the younger ones a month later or so with the older generation and you can add the second round in 2 you're race team when you get some race points that are 70+ miles or so, that's just what I would do, there you pigeons and its you're choice, you will learn a lot this season and next that's for sure, I no you're against buying young birds, but this season you need 2 BUY some off local and top fanciers far away also, and order them soon for best seasons first round that will be ready in early January, go 2 BLACKPOOL and other shows and buy baby's also and get some gifted also, but the first and second rounds because as the later ones means you will only get the second half of you're young bird season then, reason I say this is , you Don't have stock birds so you need 2 BUY and be gifted them, and if you buy a strain and win well then you can buy some of that strain for stock if possible, When training watch the head winds, go shorter or skip that day just untill there off darkness, but once there heads and neck have moulted they be fine, More box and V perches, should be 3 perches per pigeon if possible, they will be happy and no overcrowding either, Linseed is great, you give them 2 hand fulls and there still pecking at it 15 mins later , and as I said you deffo need 2weight the food, you will be shocked they are so content eating one ounce or less and flying 2 there perch, I couldn't believe knowing they would fill there crop normally if given over the years, an ounce is the equivalent of a table spoon but scales is best, add small popcorn seed to the mix as the week goes on getting close to the final feed Thursday night, you will be building a new 24 foot loft the day after you're last young bird race :-)
@@desburke7786 Great info thanks. I really do need to build another trap. It might be a project for the weekend. I currently weigh their feed every time and their flying has improved massively. I let them out this morning and all but two of the heaviest moulting birds flew for 45 minutes. I'll start looking for new birds when I know whether I'll be sprinting or going more distance, but my current thinking is I'll prefer distance. Blackpool is already booked.
@@howtotrainyourpigeon Why not race all distances?, some breeds Sprint very long distances, some long distance breeds have won Sprint distances, build another small aviary beside you're other1 that leads to the section you are thinking of putting the younger ones in and the trap above it the same as you're current one, this weekend is good it will give the birds time to get use to the new build, before you start to train and race them, and deffo get more perches in, very important, Njoy Blackpool it's an amazing show, I went for 10 years in a row when I used to race, and weather in Blackpool or from top fanciers you deffo need to buy 20-30 young ones that are first and second round and hopefully you get some from fellow fanciers also. Weighing the food is so so important, and after building them up and fattening them up and to get them to loose the weight and turn it into mussel and see them fly longer and train hard is great, how they handle is amazing. You just need to work out how you are going to feed them and what supplements and treatments in the water every week during training and racing, this is really important, do you no what you're fellow fanciers put in the water Saturday to Friday??
This is only my opinion but iv got some very early ones and they have been on the dark with my other and they are moulting flights There’s nothing that can be done about it I don’t think u have done anything wrong mate to be honest I’m not even that consistent with times off day and I might miss a day here or there
Hi I know you will probably be aware but what you are trying to mimic is sunrise and sunset which fools their circadian rhythm into thinking it is winter when it's summer. So what is meant by they can't see when it gets light and then gets dark this sets their internal clock. Watching your video of the inside of your loft you can clearly see where that is compromised. You will find if you take notice of where the bird's that are throwing there first flights that they are sitting in a shaft of light. If you check the wings and find out which one's have thrown flights and that will be why. When fanciers say you don't have to be to dark they mean in practice a uniform darkness not beams of light going on and off at sunrise and sunset. You are doing well because you are regarding them to get to this point. Hope this helps you Regards Dave
They look like internal fathers them, they have 6 iner and 6 outer .they may still body molt on darkness but holding on ot the 6 outer fathers the long fathers. Were they get the power from. Taking them off darkness the longest day of the year is the normal thing to do .so they molt out ready for old birds next year. hope that gives you some pice of mind. 8hrs of sunshine then on the darkness eney more sunshine than that they will molt
Great video man. Great looking Birds 2. Keep the videos coming great job
I found your channel yesterday and have enjoyed following your journey. I grew up with pigeons and would love the chance to get into the sport now but unfortunately know I’d never get planning permission through for a loft where i live, so i must live vicariously through others!!
There's only one option... You'll have to move 😄
Although if you get in touch with your local club you might find someone willing to let you get involved.
I've just binge watched all this series
I'm looking at getting into the hobby I live in Bradford
Is it best to get the loft set up first then get pigeons?
Great. Hope you've enjoyed it. I would say getting the loft sorted should be a priority but it depends when you intend to start flying. Young bird season is only 6 or 7 weeks away so if you could get some young birds soon you might just catch the middle of it. But if you're only just looking into it it might be a bit soon unless you have someone local who's willing to mentor you. It took me about 3 or 4 years from deciding I want to race pigeons to actually getting any. Join the Facebook group 'novice/newcomers to racing pigeons' (and ours while you're there) and you'll get loads of help, possibly from someone local too 👍
If you have to ask a question should I get the shed first and then the pigeons. Then I suggest you don’t get the pigeons because you are too stupid to have pigeons
They only look like s secondary flights to me??, that is all the smaller flights following the 10 PRIMARY FLIGHTS furthest from the body when the wing is fully extended , if so that's not to bad, but if they start throwing primary flights well then all you're hard work will have been in vain, from what I seen the loft is dark enough. Soon be time 2 basket them and train them, start 2-3 miles away just 2 get them used 2 leaving the basket and home and straight in and feed linseed as this a very small and healthy feed untill all or most have came home, increase up in distance up to 30-40 miles slowly 5 days a week b4 first race and buy a scales and weigh there food, a week b4 there first race they should be eating 3/4's of an ounce only and increase as races go up in distance, and with the linnseed they can eat loads and it passes time untill all are home and feed the weighed mix then, and if you watch them all eat at once, some will eat less than there 3/4's of an ounce get a drink and fly up 2 there perch, and that's when you no there in really good form. They Will have strong mussels but very light to handle, and never feed basketing day. I hope this information is of some help 2 you, it's a lot 2 taken on board, but that's 1 of the joys of pigeons racing, you are all ways learning
Thanks for the info. That's what I hope to do. I'll pick up some linseed this week. Would you normally train them while they're still on darkness? I was going to wait for them to come off as they're not ranging yet. I've heard they won't while they're on darkness. Thank for the tips 👍
No problem, I just wish some1 had told me more about racing in my early days instead of 10+ years later, I would not be worried about them ranging if they are getting 45-1 hour+ around the loft, from you're videos what I can see is that you're younger ones are holding back you're older ones, so maybe let the older ones out first and the younger ones out either when the older ones have had a good fly, or else put up more V perches in you're first section and section them apart as you would if you had a bigger loft with many sections, problem is you're trap, May be add 1 to the other section so each section has its own, and train and fly the older ones separately, and then start training the younger ones a month later or so with the older generation and you can add the second round in 2 you're race team when you get some race points that are 70+ miles or so, that's just what I would do, there you pigeons and its you're choice, you will learn a lot this season and next that's for sure, I no you're against buying young birds, but this season you need 2 BUY some off local and top fanciers far away also, and order them soon for best seasons first round that will be ready in early January, go 2 BLACKPOOL and other shows and buy baby's also and get some gifted also, but the first and second rounds because as the later ones means you will only get the second half of you're young bird season then, reason I say this is , you Don't have stock birds so you need 2 BUY and be gifted them, and if you buy a strain and win well then you can buy some of that strain for stock if possible,
When training watch the head winds, go shorter or skip that day just untill there off darkness, but once there heads and neck have moulted they be fine,
More box and V perches, should be 3 perches per pigeon if possible, they will be happy and no overcrowding either,
Linseed is great, you give them 2 hand fulls and there still pecking at it 15 mins later , and as I said you deffo need 2weight the food, you will be shocked they are so content eating one ounce or less and flying 2 there perch, I couldn't believe knowing they would fill there crop normally if given over the years, an ounce is the equivalent of a table spoon but scales is best, add small popcorn seed to the mix as the week goes on getting close to the final feed Thursday night, you will be building a new 24 foot loft the day after you're last young bird race :-)
@@desburke7786 Great info thanks. I really do need to build another trap. It might be a project for the weekend. I currently weigh their feed every time and their flying has improved massively. I let them out this morning and all but two of the heaviest moulting birds flew for 45 minutes. I'll start looking for new birds when I know whether I'll be sprinting or going more distance, but my current thinking is I'll prefer distance. Blackpool is already booked.
@@howtotrainyourpigeon Why not race all distances?, some breeds Sprint very long distances, some long distance breeds have won Sprint distances, build another small aviary beside you're other1 that leads to the section you are thinking of putting the younger ones in and the trap above it the same as you're current one, this weekend is good it will give the birds time to get use to the new build, before you start to train and race them, and deffo get more perches in, very important,
Njoy Blackpool it's an amazing show, I went for 10 years in a row when I used to race, and weather in Blackpool or from top fanciers you deffo need to buy 20-30 young ones that are first and second round and hopefully you get some from fellow fanciers also.
Weighing the food is so so important, and after building them up and fattening them up and to get them to loose the weight and turn it into mussel and see them fly longer and train hard is great, how they handle is amazing. You just need to work out how you are going to feed them and what supplements and treatments in the water every week during training and racing, this is really important, do you no what you're fellow fanciers put in the water Saturday to Friday??
??
I only darken mine so I can see a news paper mate and they can still drink
Are they very early young birds
2 are very early, most were paired up in late January to March.
This is only my opinion but iv got some very early ones and they have been on the dark with my other and they are moulting flights
There’s nothing that can be done about it
I don’t think u have done anything wrong mate to be honest I’m not even that consistent with times off day and I might miss a day here or there
Wgat part country u in
@@alixc002002 North Nottinghamshire
@@alixc002002 good to hear I'm not the only one 😁
Hi I know you will probably be aware but what you are trying to mimic is sunrise and sunset which fools their circadian rhythm into thinking it is winter when it's summer. So what is meant by they can't see when it gets light and then gets dark this sets their internal clock. Watching your video of the inside of your loft you can clearly see where that is compromised. You will find if you take notice of where the bird's that are throwing there first flights that they are sitting in a shaft of light. If you check the wings and find out which one's have thrown flights and that will be why. When fanciers say you don't have to be to dark they mean in practice a uniform darkness not beams of light going on and off at sunrise and sunset. You are doing well because you are regarding them to get to this point. Hope this helps you
Regards Dave
Thanks that makes sense. Need to block the beams of light for sure 👍
Think u are in my fed
Which club do you fly in?
Perz...🤫
They look like internal fathers them, they have 6 iner and 6 outer .they may still body molt on darkness but holding on ot the 6 outer fathers the long fathers. Were they get the power from. Taking them off darkness the longest day of the year is the normal thing to do .so they molt out ready for old birds next year. hope that gives you some pice of mind. 8hrs of sunshine then on the darkness eney more sunshine than that they will molt
Thanks for the info. They've been on 10 hours of daylight. I wonder if that's too much?
8 to 10 sunshine should be OK you will be pushing it to the maximum on 10 hours like 👍
Put pink dye under the pigeons wings it will stop falcon attacks they do it in Belgium
That's not what the dye is for,as they attack from above lol
I had birds for over 20 years i let mines molt natural they are birds u no and i won races but i can mind where i live now to much rules
Mid northants