Your best off giving the nomex honey comb a little wiggle once you vave put it in the glue coated plywood, this captures the glue that is wasted in the centre of each cell.
That's a good tip. It will wick up naturally if viscosity gets low enough (not going to happen here) but agree - glue out in the middle of a cell just sitting there isn't helping!
Oh I don't really have favorites - some are more interesting though! The problem with these materials is that there are so many variables that it's hard to pick a "best" - you can usually get to a workable solution from a bunch of different angles. Usually its manufacturing concerns that matter as much as materials - unless for a very demanding application where you can afford to do something difficult because some aspect of the product requires it. If I had to choose, I'd take infusion because it is so manufacturable, inexpensive and not messy. Add glass or carbon, some foam core, and common infusion resins - and you have a good place to start for many types of parts.
I don’t know! Going to have to buy more than the absolute minimum quantity of ply next time! Its always nice to break stuff. My guess is that epoxy would be tougher and a better all around choice - but Gorilla may be adequate if enough is used - and probably lighter.
@@ExploreComposites Also way cheaper and more natural than epoxy. I wouldn´t want to use epoxy and glasfiber etc. Wood neveere wood glue and shellac it all it takes.
I don´t get this really. What´s the purpose for this material ? Why so complex with additional coats of epoxy putty why not just paint over the previous layer with some PU varnish ? Are there tests being conduncted with this piece of material ? I am really confused.
These "laminate samples" are just a look at a bunch of materials and processes all bundled up into a square foot some something somebody might actually be able use. This one is a bit out there, but the combination of plywood skins with a honeycomb core is great for light stiff things where wood is ok. The Dynel is a good sheathing material - tough and abrasion resistant and shown here filled and primed to a paintable surface. Lots of the other samples are more common recipes, but I try to show something interesting in each one - a material, process or tool - sometimes maybe I try to pack too much into each one!
@@ExploreComposites Ok now I get it. I have seen a couple of your other videos, well done. Interesting stuff. Have you tried something super low cost like corrugated board with resin ?
This was another excellent, multi-process/product tutorial. Thank you Brother 😎🎩♠️
Your best off giving the nomex honey comb a little wiggle once you vave put it in the glue coated plywood, this captures the glue that is wasted in the centre of each cell.
That's a good tip. It will wick up naturally if viscosity gets low enough (not going to happen here) but agree - glue out in the middle of a cell just sitting there isn't helping!
You've tried a lot of combinations so far. Which one do you like the most for a universal structural application?
Oh I don't really have favorites - some are more interesting though! The problem with these materials is that there are so many variables that it's hard to pick a "best" - you can usually get to a workable solution from a bunch of different angles. Usually its manufacturing concerns that matter as much as materials - unless for a very demanding application where you can afford to do something difficult because some aspect of the product requires it.
If I had to choose, I'd take infusion because it is so manufacturable, inexpensive and not messy. Add glass or carbon, some foam core, and common infusion resins - and you have a good place to start for many types of parts.
How well did the Gorilla Glue adhere to the Nomex? Does it hold up under flex tests? Does the wood splinter before the glue lets go?
I don’t know! Going to have to buy more than the absolute minimum quantity of ply next time! Its always nice to break stuff. My guess is that epoxy would be tougher and a better all around choice - but Gorilla may be adequate if enough is used - and probably lighter.
@@ExploreComposites Also way cheaper and more natural than epoxy. I wouldn´t want to use epoxy and glasfiber etc. Wood neveere wood glue and shellac it all it takes.
I don´t get this really. What´s the purpose for this material ? Why so complex with additional coats of epoxy putty why not just paint over the previous layer with some PU varnish ?
Are there tests being conduncted with this piece of material ? I am really confused.
These "laminate samples" are just a look at a bunch of materials and processes all bundled up into a square foot some something somebody might actually be able use. This one is a bit out there, but the combination of plywood skins with a honeycomb core is great for light stiff things where wood is ok. The Dynel is a good sheathing material - tough and abrasion resistant and shown here filled and primed to a paintable surface. Lots of the other samples are more common recipes, but I try to show something interesting in each one - a material, process or tool - sometimes maybe I try to pack too much into each one!
@@ExploreComposites Ok now I get it. I have seen a couple of your other videos, well done. Interesting stuff.
Have you tried something super low cost like corrugated board with resin ?