Just one small tip when doing a job like this. Always remember to orientate the clamps so as to access them when the bike's back together, and check that the worm drive doesn't rub or touch any part of the bike. It's handy to be able to tighten a clamp if it leaks. Silicone hoses are very soft so don't overtighten and cut them. Some of Vicki's hose clamps were a bit oversize with the long tail sticking out more than necessary. This is a minor, but for neatness and not gouging your hand on one later it's a good idea. Good video overall, your a handy girl for sure.
Just a short note on removal of a thermostat. I wouldn't think there's an engine manufacturer out there who recommends this action. ECU management systems require the coolent temps to be bought to the normal temp range as quickly as possible and run within that range. Thermostats make this happen. They usually have lots of "freeboard" so most of the time they're only half open and have lots of flow capacity left for when the load requires it. Usually if an engine overheats it's due to some other factor like blocked radiators or restricted airflow...provided the thermostat is working fine. In cars I've seen running without a thermostat, the temp gauge hardly registers, that's very bad for engine wear. So what I'm saying is, if your dirt bike is overheating make sure everything else is operating correctly first eg. air flow & water flow. One last thing no-one talks about, by running an ECU managed engine too cold, not operating in it's optimum temp window, apart from excess engine wear, the ECU provides the engine with more fuel....thinking the engine is constantly in a cold start mode. So fuel consumption will be higher than normal. This information comes from my experience as a mechanic.
Just one small tip when doing a job like this.
Always remember to orientate the clamps so as to access them when the bike's back together, and check that the worm drive doesn't rub or touch any part of the bike.
It's handy to be able to tighten a clamp if it leaks.
Silicone hoses are very soft so don't overtighten and cut them.
Some of Vicki's hose clamps were a bit oversize with the long tail sticking out more than necessary. This is a minor, but for neatness and not gouging your hand on one later it's a good idea.
Good video overall, your a handy girl for sure.
Thanks for the Video. I am installing my hose right now. Needed some tips especially for the temp sensor.
Just a short note on removal of a thermostat.
I wouldn't think there's an engine manufacturer out there who recommends this action.
ECU management systems require the coolent temps to be bought to the normal temp range as quickly as possible and run within that range. Thermostats make this happen.
They usually have lots of "freeboard" so most of the time they're only half open and have lots of flow capacity left for when the load requires it.
Usually if an engine overheats it's due to some other factor like blocked radiators or restricted airflow...provided the thermostat is working fine.
In cars I've seen running without a thermostat, the temp gauge hardly registers, that's very bad for engine wear.
So what I'm saying is, if your dirt bike is overheating make sure everything else is operating correctly first eg. air flow & water flow.
One last thing no-one talks about, by running an ECU managed engine too cold, not operating in it's optimum temp window, apart from excess engine wear, the ECU provides the engine with more fuel....thinking the engine is constantly in a cold start mode. So fuel consumption will be higher than normal.
This information comes from my experience as a mechanic.
Is there much space between the pipe and the bottom red hose? Did mine today and it’s extremely close like 2/3 mm gap only
Yeah, mine's close...I have probably a 1/16 to 1/8 inch gap. As long as it's not touching the pipe, you are good.