I bought an old (very brittle) GW parcels railcar body as my only non-steam loco. A central can motor, two metal universal joints, four nylon worm/gear sets and four EM coach wheels plus some spare bogie sides, and with some problems of how and where to suspend the scratch-built bogie frames, it works with a rather prototypical growl when 'notching up'.
Excellent , as always, on eBay a seller was providing smooth wheels to replace the "rumblers" on Triang 101's and also the Triang EMU. This however goes a couple of steps further to cure the inconsistent running on these very old models- thanks for the effort, very informative and smart solution.
I had never thought of trying this, but then I quite like the growl of the old motor! Certainly an ingenious solution, and worth doing if the 101 has the older coarse wheels.
Brilliant! I've been scratching my head for some time now as to how I could replace the motors on my old Triang Blue Pullman fleet but I was thinking along the lines of replacement chassis for the driving cars. This has given me a whole new line of thought. I also have three of theses Triang 101s lying stored away in a box somewhere; perhaps i can give them a new lease of life too. Once again you've showed what a little sideways thinking can do. Thanks a lot.
But having swapped the wheels for a smooth set from Ultrascale and given the bogie a good service, my DMU that I've owned since 1962 is not only quiet, but one of the smoothest running locos I have. This motor bogie is actually extremely well engineered and far better than the ones in the Triang Class 37 etc.
Lima used a smaller version of that motor for it's N gauge models. But they couldn't quite make it small enough to fit in a tender so the steam trains are horribly too large while the diesel were okay. Not sure if that's improved any over the years and quite frankly I don't want to spend my money finding out!
I suggest that if you aren't happy with the pick-ups on the non-powered bogie, you could always add metal wheels (as you mentioned towards the end of the video) to the trailer car, with pick-ups added, and permanently couple the two cars together.
Dear oo Bill . You do some great remedial work and its amazing what you do in your resteration. Of these models always of interest to me . Thank you. I have a request. Do you know where i can obtain a screw for a triang double bogie wagon. I need a center screw for a ici or murgatroide tsnk wagon . The center screw that holds the tank to the chassis. Is what im looking for . Or the length and thread size of the screw . That would be much appreciated thank you .
amazing what you can do to old models im thinking of fitting cd motors to my 2 lima cl 31s after seeing your cd motored locos running great video thanks for sharlng
Another great video. I love how you breathe new life into these old models, especially as the hobby has become so expensive. You've inspired me to invest in a CD motor from Diesel-trains, for one of my old lima engines. On your next layout update, would you be able to show a track plan? Unless you've cover this in another video.
It shouldn't. The body shell rests on top of the motor frame. The screw isn't really under any stress as it turns with the motor. The piece of cable tie I fitted into the body is really just a spacer/washer to stop the motor bogie falling out when the loco is picked up.
Hey Bill why don't you get flush glazing from SE Finecast, I did it with my Lima 117, it fair upgrades the look, especially as you put in a modern motor. I've also got a little circuit for flicker free lighting which is cheap as chips if you're interested contact me about it. I was thinking about doing some videos myself, but I think you're a better presenter than me and my Paisley accent is a lot rougher than yours 😆
I was thinking just that, about the cab windows especially. However, SE Finecast Flushglaze tends to go yellow over time, and I'm no longer convinced it's worth the effort fitting.
Given the experience you now had of CD replacement motors would you recommend routinely taking out all the original Lima motors from your locomotives or just change those where thorough maintenance doesn’t seem able to achieve good running quality? Just interested to see if you thought the cost and effort was worth while regardless.
Depends on your expectations of the loco performance. A well serviced Lima ringfield will run fine but it's slow pull away may not be great and it'll need a lot more power to get going and draw more current. A CD motor will perform much better and for the relatively low cost I think it's probably worth doing. All my Limas and now this Tri-ang have CD motors and I'm about to fit one into my B17.
I've seen warnings on the adverts for such motors that they may not respond well to pulling long trains -- ie you can potentially burn them out. Having said that, I bought a fantastic pre-owned Class 59 off ebay which has had a CD conversion and a lot of extra weight added, and its performance is just like the real thing. It is able to pull many trains whose rolling resistance just leaves unmodified locos standing.
Lovely conversion , seems to be smooth running . Learned something , so that's a good day .
Love it. I'm a big fan of the sustainable approach. A fusion a British and Italian technology. Britalian.
With considerable scepticism, I put a CD motor in a Lima 26. Absolutely transformed. A good upgrade.
I bought an old (very brittle) GW parcels railcar body as my only non-steam loco. A central can motor, two metal universal joints, four nylon worm/gear sets and four EM coach wheels plus some spare bogie sides, and with some problems of how and where to suspend the scratch-built bogie frames, it works with a rather prototypical growl when 'notching up'.
Excellent , as always, on eBay a seller was providing smooth wheels to replace the "rumblers" on Triang 101's and also the Triang EMU. This however goes a couple of steps further to cure the inconsistent running on these very old models- thanks for the effort, very informative and smart solution.
Great sense of satisfaction rescuing items from the scrap box. It was enjoyable watching the revamped 101 run around. Well done Bill.
Always love to see an old model given a fresh lease on life! Great work as always
Very sweet running, well done Bill!!
I had never thought of trying this, but then I quite like the growl of the old motor! Certainly an ingenious solution, and worth doing if the 101 has the older coarse wheels.
Excellent video Bill. Informative and interesting at the same time. 👍🚂
Brilliant! I've been scratching my head for some time now as to how I could replace the motors on my old Triang Blue Pullman fleet but I was thinking along the lines of replacement chassis for the driving cars. This has given me a whole new line of thought. I also have three of theses Triang 101s lying stored away in a box somewhere; perhaps i can give them a new lease of life too. Once again you've showed what a little sideways thinking can do. Thanks a lot.
An excellent solution to the fitting of a new bogie!!! Thanks for the informative and entertaining video.
Great video. I wonder if the same idea could be applied to the old Triang Blue Pullman ?
Same motor I think so don't see why not.
Genius with the band on the motor casing to provide a bogie fixing, thanks for sharing.
nice job Bill.
Bill thats fantastic. I can now breath life into my dads old model thanks to you. 👍🏻
great fix on the motor housing and very effective too
Layout's looking good Bill, looking forward to the next video.
But having swapped the wheels for a smooth set from Ultrascale and given the bogie a good service, my DMU that I've owned since 1962 is not only quiet, but one of the smoothest running locos I have. This motor bogie is actually extremely well engineered and far better than the ones in the Triang Class 37 etc.
I love it, very worthwhile conversion with more finesse to come. 😊
Lima used a smaller version of that motor for it's N gauge models. But they couldn't quite make it small enough to fit in a tender so the steam trains are horribly too large while the diesel were okay. Not sure if that's improved any over the years and quite frankly I don't want to spend my money finding out!
Thank you for this, I now know what to try on my old 101DMU. Just need to find a motor now!
I suggest that if you aren't happy with the pick-ups on the non-powered bogie, you could always add metal wheels (as you mentioned towards the end of the video) to the trailer car, with pick-ups added, and permanently couple the two cars together.
Dear oo Bill . You do some great remedial work and its amazing what you do in your resteration. Of these models always of interest to me . Thank you. I have a request. Do you know where i can obtain a screw for a triang double bogie wagon. I need a center screw for a ici or murgatroide tsnk wagon . The center screw that holds the tank to the chassis. Is what im looking for . Or the length and thread size of the screw . That would be much appreciated thank you .
Great fix Bill 👍🏻 Better that It going to St Rollox scrap line for disposal lol 😆 Keep the fantastic videos rolling Bill 🤩
As ever simple is best. Well done 👍
Sure looked great running.
Runs great
Nice job Bill
Nick Australia
amazing what you can do to old models im thinking of fitting cd motors to my 2 lima cl 31s after seeing your cd motored locos running great video thanks for sharlng
Another great video. I love how you breathe new life into these old models, especially as the hobby has become so expensive. You've inspired me to invest in a CD motor from Diesel-trains, for one of my old lima engines. On your next layout update, would you be able to show a track plan? Unless you've cover this in another video.
Next video is a layout update. No track plan. See FAQ in description.
Well done with the repair/rebuild. Perhaps you could use the wheels/bogies from the Lima dmu that you got the motor bogie from.
It only had the motor bogie!
Nice one Bill
That was my kinda adaptin' Bill - top job! I recon maybe a splash of black paint on that new bogie just to help it match better would look smart 😉
Yeah it'll get painted along with the yellow on the car fronts.
I would love to able to do this to one of my two class 37’s ( spider leg motor )
Magic. Random question have you done a video on a Marklin 3 rail ?
Nope
Nice conversion, my only concern is whether the screw holding the motor will work it’s way loose after a while.
It shouldn't. The body shell rests on top of the motor frame. The screw isn't really under any stress as it turns with the motor. The piece of cable tie I fitted into the body is really just a spacer/washer to stop the motor bogie falling out when the loco is picked up.
Nice one
Do you drink Guinness Bill?...cos this is pure genius mate
Do fish swim?
Hey Bill why don't you get flush glazing from SE Finecast, I did it with my Lima 117, it fair upgrades the look, especially as you put in a modern motor. I've also got a little circuit for flicker free lighting which is cheap as chips if you're interested contact me about it. I was thinking about doing some videos myself, but I think you're a better presenter than me and my Paisley accent is a lot rougher than yours 😆
I was thinking just that, about the cab windows especially. However, SE Finecast Flushglaze tends to go yellow over time, and I'm no longer convinced it's worth the effort fitting.
Given the experience you now had of CD replacement motors would you recommend routinely taking out all the original Lima motors from your locomotives or just change those where thorough maintenance doesn’t seem able to achieve good running quality? Just interested to see if you thought the cost and effort was worth while regardless.
Depends on your expectations of the loco performance. A well serviced Lima ringfield will run fine but it's slow pull away may not be great and it'll need a lot more power to get going and draw more current. A CD motor will perform much better and for the relatively low cost I think it's probably worth doing. All my Limas and now this Tri-ang have CD motors and I'm about to fit one into my B17.
I've seen warnings on the adverts for such motors that they may not respond well to pulling long trains -- ie you can potentially burn them out. Having said that, I bought a fantastic pre-owned Class 59 off ebay which has had a CD conversion and a lot of extra weight added, and its performance is just like the real thing. It is able to pull many trains whose rolling resistance just leaves unmodified locos standing.
Nice one Bill you seem to have the same soldering iron as me,what temp do you set it at? Thanks.
I bought mine as make do when my old one packed up. I keep meaning to replace it. I set it about 280.
@@oobill Thank you for the reply Bill.
mint
Brilliant job, a wee coat of satin black on the frame would just make it perfect!
Great idea Bill, send me your email please
Same email you used previously Charlie. See the About tab or the FAQ in the description. ;)