Assuming the cap is on the reservoir is the highest point in the system, simply ensure any degas pipe is clear, leave the cap ON, as the engine cools a thermo syphon action will draw water in expelling air, may take 1 or two cycles from hot to cold but no more, always worked for me in 56 years
I've been a mechanic for 52 years and when i see these type of install i've often wondered are they doing it wrong. One individual suggest to close of 1/2 the rad to generate more heat to the heater. Will if you did that your also generating more heat for the engine. I personally think the two heater lines should be cut into the hot water side only. My reasoning for this is, if one is on the hot hose and the other is on the cold hose, then hot water from the engine is going thru the heater and that same hot water is going over to the cold water hose on the output and therefore, that water doesn't get a chance to cool so your sending hot water directly back to the water pump without it being cooled. I hooked mine up in the fashion shown on the videos and i had an engine problem afterwards. Hence my cyclinder head got too hot and the fan was on most all the time and my cylinder head developed a warp because of it sending compressed air to the water system. I then unhooked it and re configered the hoses to come out of the hot water line into the heater and back out of the heater into the hot water line. Hence, all the coolant got an opportunity to go thru the radiator for cooling. Since i had to resurface my cylinder head and install a new gasket i haven't had any problems and my heater is putting out a nice hot air flow. Maybe, i was wrong in doing this but it worked for my Viking.
I was thinking the same thing. Cut one radiator hose. Then one side of the hose you cut is the "in" to the heater core. Then the "out" of the heater core to the other side of the radiator core. In other words put the heater core in series with the radiator. That way the coolant is being cooled by the heater core fan then travels a little distance. Then cooled even more by the radiator fan.
I would bleed the heater core before cutting the second rad hose, just fill the rad until it comes out the heater hose. Then clamp it along with the second rad hose, cut, install tee fitting and connect heater hose. Top up rad and bleed the engine like normal.
Please make a video for can-am 2021 commander max. Online your heater says will fit, but I have not ordered it yet. Can-am seems to be like apple and makes their machine a pain to add aftermarket parts.
I just installed everything according to this video but my heater will not come on. I have my wires plug to the bus bar but it seems to not have any power..??
I installed this exact heater kit in my 2013 Commander 1000. Everything is tight, no leaks. Done plenty of heat cycles and my coolant is full. No heat blowing whatsoever. Any tips???
I have a 2021 1000 xp on order and I have been looking at this kit on the website but I am confused. This video shows a single defrost vent while the website shows 2 defrost vents up top?
Different machines will have different setups. The ranger 1000 has the 1 vent up top. The rzr will have 2 vents. I just ordered one for my 2020 ranger 1000
Hey Jeff, The Part number for this particular heater kit is HTR-P-RAN1K. Be sure to check the fitment tab on our website or reach out to our team directly to make sure you pick up the correct unit for your machine. Thanks for watching and let us know if we can help! www.superatv.com/polaris-ranger-xp-1000-cab-heater?sku=HTR-P-RAN1K
What is keeping the coolant from just circulating through the heater core and not the radiator? I'm not convinced the engine would not overheat due to lack of coolant flow through radiator. Seems like with full flow of coolant going through heater core and high engine load, could be a recipe for overheating. Although the heater core is nothing more than a radiator so maybe it removes enough heat to compensate for the loss of flow through the radiator. I'd sure want to talk to someone who has done this before I spend the money on it.
@@DaWord2011 Yes, I understand that. If you shut the coolant flow off through the heater core you have full flow back through the radiator. But then you have no cab heat. The scenario I'm talking about is if you want cab heat but the engine needs full flow through the radiator to stay cool.
@@uenragedbro I know that...I was talking about when the heater Is Not being used. The coolant still circulates though heater core but does not disepate any heat.
@@terrybraun4175 if it was still circulating through the heater, the fins on the core would still dissipate some heat. It would just flow slightly slower but it wouldn't be that much of an issue.
Me Too! I have done everything I can possibly do to it and the only time I have heat is sitting still not moving with the RPM up to 3000 once I start moving the machine heat is gone even if I pinch off the line what else can I do?
I've put 300 miles on it and still no heat. I've even left it jacked up as far as my cherry picker goes for days and squeeze lines. My coolant level is still full.
@@erikpeterson1527 ya im not sure unless something wrong with the heater. Grab both ends of the coolant lines on the heater. See if there both warm. It does take a bit to get heat. Have to wait till the machine warms up and thermostat opens. Then stays warm
THIS WAS THE ABSOLUTE BEST DETAILED DEMONSTRATION EVER PRESENTED ON THIS SITE!
Glad you enjoyed! Thanks for the support and feedback!
There are many who try to teach, this gentlemen does a great job. Thankyou and I did but the same unit.
Thanks for the feedback on the Ranger 1000 Cab Heater Install!
Assuming the cap is on the reservoir is the highest point in the system, simply ensure any degas pipe is clear, leave the cap ON, as the engine cools a thermo syphon action will draw water in expelling air, may take 1 or two cycles from hot to cold but no more, always worked for me in 56 years
I've been a mechanic for 52 years and when i see these type of install i've often wondered are they doing it wrong. One individual suggest to close of 1/2 the rad to generate more heat to the heater. Will if you did that your also generating more heat for the engine. I personally think the two heater lines should be cut into the hot water side only. My reasoning for this is, if one is on the hot hose and the other is on the cold hose, then hot water from the engine is going thru the heater and that same hot water is going over to the cold water hose on the output and therefore, that water doesn't get a chance to cool so your sending hot water directly back to the water pump without it being cooled. I hooked mine up in the fashion shown on the videos and i had an engine problem afterwards. Hence my cyclinder head got too hot and the fan was on most all the time and my cylinder head developed a warp because of it sending compressed air to the water system. I then unhooked it and re configered the hoses to come out of the hot water line into the heater and back out of the heater into the hot water line. Hence, all the coolant got an opportunity to go thru the radiator for cooling. Since i had to resurface my cylinder head and install a new gasket i haven't had any problems and my heater is putting out a nice hot air flow. Maybe, i was wrong in doing this but it worked for my Viking.
I was thinking the same thing.
Cut one radiator hose. Then one side of the hose you cut is the "in" to the heater core. Then the "out" of the heater core to the other side of the radiator core.
In other words put the heater core in series with the radiator.
That way the coolant is being cooled by the heater core fan then travels a little distance. Then cooled even more by the radiator fan.
I would bleed the heater core before cutting the second rad hose, just fill the rad until it comes out the heater hose. Then clamp it along with the second rad hose, cut, install tee fitting and connect heater hose. Top up rad and bleed the engine like normal.
Great video man! I've gotta get one of these kits!
You can also use an Air Lift tool on the radiator to pull a vacuum on the cooling system and refill that way. Save yourself the headache.
what size is that adapter for the coolant hose
Please make a video for can-am 2021 commander max.
Online your heater says will fit, but I have not ordered it yet. Can-am seems to be like apple and makes their machine a pain to add aftermarket parts.
How do u fine which wires are hot wires
does this heater require a thermostat bypass valve? Also heard putting a piece of cardboard covering half the rad will generate alot more heat.
I just installed everything according to this video but my heater will not come on. I have my wires plug to the bus bar but it seems to not have any power..??
Do we really need to go to a 1/16" measurement on a vent hose? Lol.
Can you add AC air conditioning in the Polaris Ranger 1000 XP ?
There are aftermarket AC kits for UTV's however we do not carry any.
I installed this exact heater kit in my 2013 Commander 1000. Everything is tight, no leaks. Done plenty of heat cycles and my coolant is full. No heat blowing whatsoever. Any tips???
Hey Jamal, Give us a call and we can help troubleshoot with you. 855-743-3427
I have a 2021 1000 xp on order and I have been looking at this kit on the website but I am confused. This video shows a single defrost vent while the website shows 2 defrost vents up top?
Different machines will have different setups. The ranger 1000 has the 1 vent up top. The rzr will have 2 vents. I just ordered one for my 2020 ranger 1000
Nice heater but apparently if you have the Polaris tip out windshield you can't use the defrost vent
This is correct.
@@SuperATVMediawhy is that?
What part number for this system
Hey Jeff,
The Part number for this particular heater kit is HTR-P-RAN1K. Be sure to check the fitment tab on our website or reach out to our team directly to make sure you pick up the correct unit for your machine. Thanks for watching and let us know if we can help!
www.superatv.com/polaris-ranger-xp-1000-cab-heater?sku=HTR-P-RAN1K
What is keeping the coolant from just circulating through the heater core and not the radiator? I'm not convinced the engine would not overheat due to lack of coolant flow through radiator. Seems like with full flow of coolant going through heater core and high engine load, could be a recipe for overheating. Although the heater core is nothing more than a radiator so maybe it removes enough heat to compensate for the loss of flow through the radiator. I'd sure want to talk to someone who has done this before I spend the money on it.
@@DaWord2011 Yes, I understand that. If you shut the coolant flow off through the heater core you have full flow back through the radiator. But then you have no cab heat. The scenario I'm talking about is if you want cab heat but the engine needs full flow through the radiator to stay cool.
It goes through the water pump and the oil cooler to an etc module, usually.
The heater running actually helps the engine from overheating, not the other way around. The heater takes away hot coolant to provide the hot air.
@@uenragedbro I know that...I was talking about when the heater Is Not being used. The coolant still circulates though heater core but does not disepate any heat.
@@terrybraun4175 if it was still circulating through the heater, the fins on the core would still dissipate some heat. It would just flow slightly slower but it wouldn't be that much of an issue.
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏
Thank you for sharing
I have this in my 900xp 2018 and not happy with this heater not warm air and bled the lines
try installing a thermostat bypass valve
Me Too! I have done everything I can possibly do to it and the only time I have heat is sitting still not moving with the RPM up to 3000 once I start moving the machine heat is gone even if I pinch off the line what else can I do?
@@erikpeterson1527 must have air lock somewheres. Mine puts out heat good. Gets toasty in there
I've put 300 miles on it and still no heat. I've even left it jacked up as far as my cherry picker goes for days and squeeze lines. My coolant level is still full.
@@erikpeterson1527 ya im not sure unless something wrong with the heater. Grab both ends of the coolant lines on the heater. See if there both warm. It does take a bit to get heat. Have to wait till the machine warms up and thermostat opens. Then stays warm
Absolute PAIN to install on 2019 XP. WHY do you provide 20mm bolts to go through 5mm of material?!
Just ignore everything he said about putting marks on the table to cut the hose and vent it's pointless