Nice job! I am a photographer; bearing in mind that Led Lights (especially such setup) is quite a focus light source already, for a room/garage/workshop similar the outside areas would be dimmed variable depending on the size of the area. Hence the reason also why you have yellow cast on edges! Instead of attaching lenses, perhaps better to consider a soft white diffuser panel over them (without any lenses) to spread the light around like a fluorescent light. Then you'd have a well balanced spread light source and a well lit up area. Softer the light more the spread. I hope it helps. 👍🏼
Superglue = automatic weakness! Awesome work BTW! On that gasket material there, melting the ends together is far better. I worked in a well known Television Manufacture Company in the 90's and on remote control pulleys, we would often replace the bands and weld the ends with heat :)
Doing the orings again i would suggest cutting the ends at a 30 degree angle, clean with solvent then use activator on the one side, and Loctite rubber loaded superglue on the other in a very thin film. Simply stick together and the glue sets in 5 seconds, and makes a join that is as strong as the neoprene, but which is flexible. Just sand the edge of the join level to finish it. Makes a hermetic seal, I used to do it to fix hermetic seals in avionics, as the seal was the same neoprene rubber extrusion.
For many shots yes, a big solid aluminum block on the back would suffice, perhaps with a modest air cooled heatsink to allow reasonable duty cycle. But there's setup and focusing which can take time with multiple cameras, and certain pesky events where you don't quite know when they're going to happen.
That tap looked to be running out something fierce to begin with. It seemed to straighten out after the first hole, but that snapping sound just about gave me a heart attack
The floating tap holder has a little bit of play, and on top of that I didn't have the right size tap holder, so it's sitting in an adapter that fits into a much larger holder, adding more runout.
big thumbs up for the video, if you put the heat exchangers in parallel you'll get a more even temp on every lamp and increase the overall efficiency of the setup
Watched the video. Liked it. Subscribed. I'm into DIY power LED lamps myself (maybe only without watercooling for now) so I can appretiate the effort you put in all the designing, CNC milling and cutting, sealing the waterblock (thanx for the seal compression rate BTW!), mounting it all together, and the thought behind the whole project. Nice to see a skilled enthusiast with attention to details. Keep up the good work and have fun with it. :)
Wow, that's a lot of LED's..... and light! In theory if you hold the lux meter 1 metre directly in front of the lights you should get close to 40,000 lux (assuming 4,000 lumens per LED). That's getting close to the brightness of sunlight on a sunny day. I measure 40,000 lux in my greenhouse on such a day. Great video, thanks.
The color temperature of the LED's looks decent enough, but the CRI leaves a lot to be desired, your Halide lamp provides a much better video-light. You notice this by the green tint that turns your skin into a ghastly color, the halide lamp almost looks pink afterwards because our eyes have tried to adjust to the lacking red output from the LED's. DIY Perks talks about this in his video-light videos
Nah. The best LEDs can do like 170lm/W. Notice "best". He's running them at 1kW. At the very most, assuming these LEDs are good quality and are the BEST, you're getting 170k lumens. A clear sunnday day at noon, the sun shines about 100k lumens per square meter on earth. What this is saying is that if he shined that 1kW on a piece of 2m^2 of land, he may come close to approximating a sunny day on that 2m^2 of land. nothing on the scale of an atom bomb. he's just trying to replicate a small piece of an average sunshine.
Sir, i enjoyed every moment of watching your video, wonderful to look at and listen to, looking forward to the next program that you have to show. Thank you, Brian Thomas.
I like your systematic approach and the inherent scalability of what you do. I am guessing you're not into shortcuts and half-arse rigging. Excellent work
Sanding the back of the lens to give it a frosted look should help to remove the yellow band, as it diffuses the yellow through the rest of the beam. I tried it on my 100w led and it worked pretty well. Just an idea to consider!
The nearest comparable thing I could find is this 800W LED photography light for $8k www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247202-REG/nila_nar1d_d_arina_deluxedayklight_led_fixture.html
I saw a video of a dude with the same amount of LEDs but portable with 6 min of battery. But the cooling solution wasn't efficient so I doubt the LED would last 6 min. But yeah, a 1000w flashlight.
When I'm done the five of these I'm going to strap them to a board and power them with Lipo batteries just to smash the record for the most powerful handheld flashlgiht, which currently stands at 1.8kW AFAIK: th-cam.com/video/wEFneTFl6_4/w-d-xo.html
You'd be better off spending more money for more efficient LEDs (e.g. name brand LEDs like the CXB series from Cree) in a flashlight where you have limited power and cooling capability compared to something that plugs into the wall.
how i understand watercooling is that there is a loop from intake to outlet. you watercooling block dont have that. intake and outlet is 1cm apart and no loop, so the water i the far end do not get changed... there will be water but no cooling. Love you build amazing led..
If the water is flowing at even low speed, the temperature difference will be insignificant because the water loops so many times a minute. The water will heat up gradually.
Faster won't stop it's eyes from being hurt (actually the reverse), cats are actually more sensitive to light than humans. If it was looking directly into the light it would have damaged it's eyes if it looked for too long, but animals know to not do that so it's fine. Just like cats and dogs don't stare at the sun either, they know not to.
I'm currently amazed by the QE and light intensity from such a thin layer of hypnotically-irridescent metallization on a slice of sapphire - revealed by removing the phosphorescent layer and looking closely. I digress: ha-ha-ha ha'lide. The quartz bulb is filled with Halides! HALIDES! (nicht, hay'lides)
I wish I knew how to tinker around and make cool contraptions. :( I should have abandoned astrophysics and instead fooled around with stuff like this, it must be so rewarding to see the tactile fruits of one's labour materialise.
It's not really that complicated. You need to fiddle a bit with some reading material, and get some hands on experience with smaller test pieces, which, mind you, are dirt cheap from eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress etc. You can only go up with these. But you're right, the tactile results are quite pleasing. I have several lamps i made myself and i get far more enjoyment in knowing i made them, not to mention, i know how much i can abuse them, than with store bought equivalents. And, mind you, my field of expertise is architecture, thus, even further than yours. Cheers.
I got out of physics after my third year for exactly this. Visited fermilab with a group and was told by the director that there is a shortage of "lego kids" this resonated with what i was already thinking as a career in theoretical research was starting to freak me out so I switched to mechanical and never looked back.
Jesse James the table was burning when the light was on it, with the enclosure almost no light would hit it since there are lenses and reflectors on it. They make the spread about 60° so the wood would stay cool.
About the color temperature changes, I think a more correct explanation is that the wavelength of the blue LED which fires blue light at the phosphors placed on the top varies with the current/voltage applied. Very likely, at normal current/voltage the LED emits primary photons with a peak wavelength of 450 nm, but when the current/voltage is low, the peak wavelength moves towards 460 nm, which is greener. 460 nm is just the peak wavelength, but your LED also emits photons at 470nm, 480 nm, 490nm...etc even if in proportion they are just a few. However common LED phosphors are bad at converting photons beyond 480 nm, and you are production relatively more of them when you are using a low current/voltage. The result of this is that you are getting lots of greenish-blue photons (between 480 and 500 nm) that makes your light turn yellowish or greenish.
nice rig dude! my envy meter is red lining right now. I'd love to build a portable and modular ultra bright LED strip panel(s) for filming and photography as well! great work!
Should use Shoe Goo thinned with some Xylene to connect rubber/soft plastics. It is a rubber cement but is super strong. Use it in my RC cars for everything from strengthening the bodies to patching broken parts...stuff is really good as an adhesive and as a hard rubber seal too ;)
Even though the o-ring worked. RTV might also be useful considering your machining the mating surfaces flat. Which from what I could tell would give you more room for water inside... looks great though
Hello! Have you considered selling the aluminum housing (back and front)? I don't have access to a CNC machine but I am willing to pay for having one. And I don't believe I am the only one. Thanks!
When gluing o-rings I have usually just waited that the superglue dries and then cut the excess off with a sharp knife. This way leaves less mess on the o-ring surface from the smeared glue. About the design of the groove, your compression ratio sounds ok for the application (recommended compression is from 18 to 28% in static hydraulic face seal applications) but you really should leave some free space in the groove as the elastomer is not compressible. It will only deform. For the o-ring cross section you are using the width of groove should be about 0,177 - 0,187" (4,49 - 4,75mm).
Always chuck up the tooling as close to the work piece as you can get without hitting the collet, your surface finish will be much better due to reduced chatter and run out..
That screw assortment in the small plastic drawers isn't by any chance the salvage from taking stuff apart? Because if it is, that's exactly how I store the rest of whatever was disassembled. ;)
the yellow fringe around the edge of the light spot is just from the lenses roughly focusing an image of the dies of the LED. there is a space around the edge of the 100 dies where there is extra phosphor and since you are focusing an image you see that around the edge. a two lens solution could remove this, or a diffuser behind the lenses, or maybe just a mask right in front of the LEDs that just covers the very edge.
Thanks for the suggestion. I came to the same conclusion after a little investigation. I did some quick testing, and a mask around the outside of the phosphor area solves the problem.
What an awesome job, will you be modding a lawnmower and using an extra heavy blade too? I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. Thanks for using Deg C too, I understand that. :)
you stated you were going to use this for high speed video lighting. Is there any other practical applications for this? would this be useful on a vehicle for example? or maybe as part of a security floodlight/spotlight to illuminate a walkway or entranceway? I have one more question. I see you used 10 of these. at 60V each one would only need 6 volts? so 2 would need 12V. What kind of amps would they draw? I wanted to do a very bright led turn signal lamp and was thinking a COB LED would make more useable lighting.
Very, very cool. TAANSTAAFL, especially in physics....the fan is the only downside I can see. Is it quiet enough to not affect your audio? I guess with the kind of videos you do, fan noise isn’t an issue.
I somewhat hope you do have a closed cooling fluid circuit Also, I do not remember all that much about my adhesive technology lecture, but there's two things: first, superglue (Cyanacrylat-based) stiffens as it hardens, affecting the effectiveness of an elastic seal. Second, Cyanacrylat bonds to water, so your joint will simply dissolve after a while. I mean, honestly, this will most probably not happen as long as you conduct this experiment, but still... These are some minor things I remember of my studies, so maybe finally they will help somebody :P
Nice project! But why so thick? More water passing through woundn't be better? And how do i find something like your radiator? Thanks, i'm planing to make a water cooler made of rectangular aluminium used as rail on houses(try "Aluminium rail" on google), what is the thickness that you suggest? Thanks!
Could u pls explain the circuit? each 2 led is in series? all in parallel? Could u make a project using 12v 10w leds? Is it possible to drive with ATX power supply? I mean, 12 units in parallel without driver or resister with an ATX power supply? U have great equipments, is it for fun or u work with? Your video is one of the greatest I've seen in youtube.
The LEDs are wired 2 in series. Five of those [2 in series] blocks are wired in parallel, so 2s5p. These high-power LEDs are only available in 30V, you could do a 12V system using 10w LEDs which run at about 9V and use a dropper resistor off an ATX power supply. Yep, it's generally fun to work with the equipment, all though it can get monotonous after awhile making many of the same part.
At 14:20 you were talking about equal length wires of sufficiently small cross section for the purpose of aiding current sharing. Without having watched yet further, I take it on assumption that you are also designing the LED driver and in such case you have the chance to design a boost driver such that the LED modules may be series connected rather than parallel connected, no?
A little later I show the driver which is a repurposed battery charger that can put out 60V, so that limits the LEDs to two in series. Ideally I'd run them all in series off a non-mains-isolated boost PFC followed by a buck converter, but I don't think the isolation from power circuit to case on those LEDs is up to the task of (safely) holding off that much voltage.
Very interesting video! I wish I had a machining setup like that. *sigh* Anyway, for the future: superglue/cyanoacrilate is not a good adhesive for rubber - it hardens and unsticks very easily as soon as any stress is applied at all. A much better solution for a rubber-rubber (or rubber-plastic) bond is cement of the kind sold for patching bicycle tires. I'm sure even better specialised glues are available, but tire cement is dirt-cheap and available anywhere.
Excuse my ignorance, but were the milling operations a blend of CNC and operator control? Specifically the D &T? Were you using CNC to position, and then taking over?
your poor cat XD 16:26 sitting right in the beam path, thought that was funny lol im envious of people with milling machines to make these intricate aluminum creations awesome video though, did you by chance by these led lights in bulk? and if so how much per led?
If I wanted to build my own light bar for my truck would I need the liquid cooling, or would I be able to get away with using fins like a standard heat sink.
To avoid using O-rings altogether, just machine a slanted surface on both pieces that mates with a very, very small gap in between them (the slanted surfaces themselves), then, inside that channel, put high temperature gasket silicone, the kind you can buy in a small (jumbo sized, tooth paste tube or there about) tube from just about any auto store online or not. Heck, i found mine from an universal mini store for less than two dollars and used it to seal a pressure vessel that i can't find O-rings anymore, for. Waaay less hassle, cheaper, and also, easy to clean, because once it cures, the thing becomes an gasket that you peel off.
Hello Tesla! I've a question for you so please help. Did you see the new philips tv? aka ambibox tv? its a led tech and its reflect images and videos. before i saw ambilight homemade versions like using ws2801, ws2812. But this ambibox beyond that! do you have any idea how did they reflect images or videos to wall? i mean is it a diffirent type of led or what is it man? i am gonna crazy thanks!
Hi tesla500, I really like your project and I truly admire aluminium blocks design and a final product. May I ask if you would be willing to share the CAD project of it? I could just go to the first cnc place, give them project and raw material. That would be so much easier than making everything from scratch (like you did!).
So from my experience in liquid cooling of computers. The order In which u run our loop has almost 0 effect of the temperature of the coolent though out the loop. The coolent moves through the loop to quickly to be effected from one spot to the next. The effect that happens is the coolent temp as a whole will rise up and u will see even cooling acose the loop as long as u don't have all your blocks in series and u break the loop up with radiators. Basically what im saying you should worry about different temps across a single block.
i looking forward for The lens i want to know what size this lens are. i looking thesame type of lens but than 50 or 52 mm lengh for my maglite d cel flashlight to get a focus beam. but i dont know were i can buy it have someone some tips or informatian about The lens and how to get it greetings Danny damveld
Hey mane, I was thinking of getting a section of alumn gutter downspout run, stuffing with some filling, and just capping the ends and siliconing really good then using a small pond pump to keep the water moving through out the alumn. Be a heavy fixture but I think keep the leds super cool and be super efficient and super cheap?
Hi. Just watched your video and it’s a good job. I want to realize a water cooled leds installation like this for my fish tank whig will use the water of the aquarium. Like this i will not use a water heater anymore. Thanks for your ideas
I think the yellowish tinge comes from the light reflected back internally within the lenses illuminating the wooden cover causing the lenses to project the wooden cover back out at the scene. I guess you could paint the cover black or add a mirrored film. Could it be an optical light interference pattern? That would be fascinating.
I can confirm that the same effect happens when using just one 100w LED and eBay reflector and lens, without any wood mounting hardware. It is definitely some fringing produced by the lens, however I don't know if it simply is chromatic aberration or a projection effect. It is annoying for video work, though.
Nice job! I am a photographer; bearing in mind that Led Lights (especially such setup) is quite a focus light source already, for a room/garage/workshop similar the outside areas would be dimmed variable depending on the size of the area. Hence the reason also why you have yellow cast on edges! Instead of attaching lenses, perhaps better to consider a soft white diffuser panel over them (without any lenses) to spread the light around like a fluorescent light. Then you'd have a well balanced spread light source and a well lit up area. Softer the light more the spread. I hope it helps. 👍🏼
Superglue = automatic weakness! Awesome work BTW! On that gasket material there, melting the ends together is far better. I worked in a well known Television Manufacture Company in the 90's and on remote control pulleys, we would often replace the bands and weld the ends with heat :)
Doing the orings again i would suggest cutting the ends at a 30 degree angle, clean with solvent then use activator on the one side, and Loctite rubber loaded superglue on the other in a very thin film. Simply stick together and the glue sets in 5 seconds, and makes a join that is as strong as the neoprene, but which is flexible. Just sand the edge of the join level to finish it. Makes a hermetic seal, I used to do it to fix hermetic seals in avionics, as the seal was the same neoprene rubber extrusion.
good call...;)
the best setup of those LEDs i've seen so far
When compressed those rubber strings get slightly longer and usually form a good seal without glue. I'd lubricate the groove a bit!
For high-speed, do you actually need it to be on for long enough to need water cooling ?
It's something less to worry about, I guess
Setup time.
Good point, but it was a good excuse to make those sweet looking water blocks.
For many shots yes, a big solid aluminum block on the back would suffice, perhaps with a modest air cooled heatsink to allow reasonable duty cycle. But there's setup and focusing which can take time with multiple cameras, and certain pesky events where you don't quite know when they're going to happen.
That tap looked to be running out something fierce to begin with. It seemed to straighten out after the first hole, but that snapping sound just about gave me a heart attack
The floating tap holder has a little bit of play, and on top of that I didn't have the right size tap holder, so it's sitting in an adapter that fits into a much larger holder, adding more runout.
this turned out really beautiful, and i like that you used the water cooling parts from that Coherent laser thingy.
Wow it was awesome to watch you build this. It must be the most powerful and coolest looking diy led lighting system.
big thumbs up for the video, if you put the heat exchangers in parallel you'll get a more even temp on every lamp and increase the overall efficiency of the setup
Watched the video. Liked it. Subscribed. I'm into DIY power LED lamps myself (maybe only without watercooling for now) so I can appretiate the effort you put in all the designing, CNC milling and cutting, sealing the waterblock (thanx for the seal compression rate BTW!), mounting it all together, and the thought behind the whole project. Nice to see a skilled enthusiast with attention to details. Keep up the good work and have fun with it. :)
Your channel is definitely tied to Mikes Electric Stuff as my favorite! :D
48 led's......man that would grow some serious dank bro!!!
What a brilliant project, thanks for the illuminating video.
Wow, that's a lot of LED's..... and light! In theory if you hold the lux meter 1 metre directly in front of the lights you should get close to 40,000 lux (assuming 4,000 lumens per LED). That's getting close to the brightness of sunlight on a sunny day. I measure 40,000 lux in my greenhouse on such a day. Great video, thanks.
Awesome !
Thanks for your order ! You're very professional !
The color temperature of the LED's looks decent enough, but the CRI leaves a lot to be desired, your Halide lamp provides a much better video-light. You notice this by the green tint that turns your skin into a ghastly color, the halide lamp almost looks pink afterwards because our eyes have tried to adjust to the lacking red output from the LED's. DIY Perks talks about this in his video-light videos
Wow, what a beast! Your final set up is going to be somewhere between atomic bomb flash and surface of the sun viewed from 3meters.
Bout right bro I wanna make one for full spectrum
Nah. The best LEDs can do like 170lm/W. Notice "best". He's running them at 1kW. At the very most, assuming these LEDs are good quality and are the BEST, you're getting 170k lumens.
A clear sunnday day at noon, the sun shines about 100k lumens per square meter on earth.
What this is saying is that if he shined that 1kW on a piece of 2m^2 of land, he may come close to approximating a sunny day on that 2m^2 of land.
nothing on the scale of an atom bomb. he's just trying to replicate a small piece of an average sunshine.
Awesome build, very nice delta T. I can't wait to see more high speed with your new lights! Thanks for the video.
This laser cut more beautiful than actual project :)
I'll be looking forward to nicely lit highspeed footage made with this rig in the future :)
_We gotta install microwave ovens_
_Custom kitchen deliveries_
_We gotta move these refrigerators_
_We gotta move these colour TV's_
Nice build, man! :)
Neat! You're one of the very few who understand the thermal limitations of high power leds.
Whenever I glue o-rings from cord stock I wrap the glue joint in Teflon tape to ensure a good seal
I like your logo :)
Thanks! I had a lot of fun making it and it is by far my favorite logo for Spectrum Labs :3
Sir, i enjoyed every moment of watching your video, wonderful to look at and listen to, looking forward to the next program that you have to show. Thank you, Brian Thomas.
I like your systematic approach and the inherent scalability of what you do. I am guessing you're not into shortcuts and half-arse rigging. Excellent work
I like the Sharpies used as a stabilisers for water pump ;-)
Sanding the back of the lens to give it a frosted look should help to remove the yellow band, as it diffuses the yellow through the rest of the beam. I tried it on my 100w led and it worked pretty well. Just an idea to consider!
man, I'd kill for s machining setup like that at the house! lucky dude!
Really so bright idea and LED also.👍
Incredible. It looks amazing and you did a fantastic job. Is this comparable to existing lights used for high-speed video/photography?
The nearest comparable thing I could find is this 800W LED photography light for $8k
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1247202-REG/nila_nar1d_d_arina_deluxedayklight_led_fixture.html
Gadget Addict and
What tubes used for water? How to find them on sale? Whats rifling used in connectors for connecting tubes and the block?
there's these little dessert egg custard things you get at dim sum places and other asian food. Those trays of LED modules look like trays of those.
This must be youtube first. I haven't seen anybody using those LEDs to this extreme.
I saw a video of a dude with the same amount of LEDs but portable with 6 min of battery. But the cooling solution wasn't efficient so I doubt the LED would last 6 min. But yeah, a 1000w flashlight.
When I'm done the five of these I'm going to strap them to a board and power them with Lipo batteries just to smash the record for the most powerful handheld flashlgiht, which currently stands at 1.8kW AFAIK: th-cam.com/video/wEFneTFl6_4/w-d-xo.html
You'd be better off spending more money for more efficient LEDs (e.g. name brand LEDs like the CXB series from Cree) in a flashlight where you have limited power and cooling capability compared to something that plugs into the wall.
+tesla500 If you do it, I'm gonna outdo you. :D
Godfrey Poon Bring it on! I have plans for a 10kW man-portable flashlight if I have time to do it.
Glad I came across this and your channel, awesome work man.
how i understand watercooling is that there is a loop from intake to outlet. you watercooling block dont have that. intake and outlet is 1cm apart and no loop, so the water i the far end do not get changed... there will be water but no cooling. Love you build amazing led..
awesome.. u have all the tools u need!! god blessed you amigo..
Very nice design. Im sure that if you added a larger radiator those LED's would be at least 20% cooler.
:P
What you did there, I saw it.
If the water is flowing at even low speed, the temperature difference will be insignificant because the water loops so many times a minute. The water will heat up gradually.
That poor cat is probably blind now.
hahaha
Faster irises than humans.
Faster won't stop it's eyes from being hurt (actually the reverse), cats are actually more sensitive to light than humans. If it was looking directly into the light it would have damaged it's eyes if it looked for too long, but animals know to not do that so it's fine. Just like cats and dogs don't stare at the sun either, they know not to.
KFC kentucky fried cat
Absolutely brilliant video!!
Nice Rainbow dash shirt you got there :D
i spotted the pony on the wall before i saw your comment.
your cat just chilling in front of the light looking directly into it xD
I'm currently amazed by the QE and light intensity from such a thin layer of hypnotically-irridescent metallization on a slice of sapphire - revealed by removing the phosphorescent layer and looking closely. I digress: ha-ha-ha ha'lide. The quartz bulb is filled with Halides! HALIDES! (nicht, hay'lides)
I wish I knew how to tinker around and make cool contraptions. :(
I should have abandoned astrophysics and instead fooled around with stuff like this, it must be so rewarding to see the tactile fruits of one's labour materialise.
It's not really that complicated. You need to fiddle a bit with some reading material, and get some hands on experience with smaller test pieces, which, mind you, are dirt cheap from eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress etc. You can only go up with these.
But you're right, the tactile results are quite pleasing. I have several lamps i made myself and i get far more enjoyment in knowing i made them, not to mention, i know how much i can abuse them, than with store bought equivalents. And, mind you, my field of expertise is architecture, thus, even further than yours. Cheers.
I got out of physics after my third year for exactly this. Visited fermilab with a group and was told by the director that there is a shortage of "lego kids" this resonated with what i was already thinking as a career in theoretical research was starting to freak me out so I switched to mechanical and never looked back.
So awesome. Thank you for making such a great video. It was really enjoyable!!!!
It's setting the wooden table on fire... let's make a wooden enclosure for it!
Jesse James the table was burning when the light was on it, with the enclosure almost no light would hit it since there are lenses and reflectors on it. They make the spread about 60° so the wood would stay cool.
@@lukasbekcic do most jokes go over your head?
@@lukasbekcic That was a loud WOOOSH
Oops I’ll take responsibility for that, my bad. It was a shit joke so it didn’t really register.
@@lukasbekcic Cant not agree with you lol
About the color temperature changes, I think a more correct explanation is that the wavelength of the blue LED which fires blue light at the phosphors placed on the top varies with the current/voltage applied. Very likely, at normal current/voltage the LED emits primary photons with a peak wavelength of 450 nm, but when the current/voltage is low, the peak wavelength moves towards 460 nm, which is greener. 460 nm is just the peak wavelength, but your LED also emits photons at 470nm, 480 nm, 490nm...etc even if in proportion they are just a few. However common LED phosphors are bad at converting photons beyond 480 nm, and you are production relatively more of them when you are using a low current/voltage. The result of this is that you are getting lots of greenish-blue photons (between 480 and 500 nm) that makes your light turn yellowish or greenish.
nice rig dude! my envy meter is red lining right now. I'd love to build a portable and modular ultra bright LED strip panel(s) for filming and photography as well!
great work!
Jony Ive would be proud of you.
very nice build
Amazing! Thanks from Brazil!
Should use Shoe Goo thinned with some Xylene to connect rubber/soft plastics. It is a rubber cement but is super strong. Use it in my RC cars for everything from strengthening the bodies to patching broken parts...stuff is really good as an adhesive and as a hard rubber seal too ;)
Even though the o-ring worked. RTV might also be useful considering your machining the mating surfaces flat. Which from what I could tell would give you more room for water inside... looks great though
Wonderful.. though I just wonder won't the heat smoke up the wooden enclosure like it did to the table.
NOW! that is what a ineed for my weed garden!
21:15 light and radar are similar, they both help you see stuff, and they both make heat!
You could cook something with this light ^_^
Hello! Have you considered selling the aluminum housing (back and front)? I don't have access to a CNC machine but I am willing to pay for having one. And I don't believe I am the only one. Thanks!
PixelHex can supply
When ever you make an "O" ring. Place the rubber on top of duct tape. That wy they will hold together as it dries..
Great job.
Nice, gotta get me some of those cnc toys...
When gluing o-rings I have usually just waited that the superglue dries and then cut the excess off with a sharp knife. This way leaves less mess on the o-ring surface from the smeared glue.
About the design of the groove, your compression ratio sounds ok for the application (recommended compression is from 18 to 28% in static hydraulic face seal applications) but you really should leave some free space in the groove as the elastomer is not compressible. It will only deform. For the o-ring cross section you are using the width of groove should be about 0,177 - 0,187" (4,49 - 4,75mm).
Always chuck up the tooling as close to the work piece as you can get without hitting the collet, your surface finish will be much better due to reduced chatter and run out..
That was great . But do try it outside in dark . It is much better for a newbie to understand that way rather than lux meter
That screw assortment in the small plastic drawers isn't by any chance the salvage from taking stuff apart? Because if it is, that's exactly how I store the rest of whatever was disassembled. ;)
@ 16:47 is that a cat ?
cool video btw 👍
the yellow fringe around the edge of the light spot is just from the lenses roughly focusing an image of the dies of the LED. there is a space around the edge of the 100 dies where there is extra phosphor and since you are focusing an image you see that around the edge. a two lens solution could remove this, or a diffuser behind the lenses, or maybe just a mask right in front of the LEDs that just covers the very edge.
Thanks for the suggestion. I came to the same conclusion after a little investigation. I did some quick testing, and a mask around the outside of the phosphor area solves the problem.
tesla500 cool! you really are making the most interesting projects on youtube, very inspirational.
What an awesome job, will you be modding a lawnmower and using an extra heavy blade too?
I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.
Thanks for using Deg C too, I understand that. :)
Nice video!
Yikes that first tap looked wobbly.
you stated you were going to use this for high speed video lighting. Is there any other practical applications for this? would this be useful on a vehicle for example? or maybe as part of a security floodlight/spotlight to illuminate a walkway or entranceway? I have one more question. I see you used 10 of these. at 60V each one would only need 6 volts? so 2 would need 12V. What kind of amps would they draw? I wanted to do a very bright led turn signal lamp and was thinking a COB LED would make more useable lighting.
Wow - there is loads of light from that single block - and you want more of them??? You will need a heat resistance suit on when you are in there!!
Very, very cool. TAANSTAAFL, especially in physics....the fan is the only downside I can see. Is it quiet enough to not affect your audio? I guess with the kind of videos you do, fan noise isn’t an issue.
Great work, but not all of us have access to milling machines to build heat sinks
I somewhat hope you do have a closed cooling fluid circuit
Also, I do not remember all that much about my adhesive technology lecture, but there's two things: first, superglue (Cyanacrylat-based) stiffens as it hardens, affecting the effectiveness of an elastic seal. Second, Cyanacrylat bonds to water, so your joint will simply dissolve after a while. I mean, honestly, this will most probably not happen as long as you conduct this experiment, but still... These are some minor things I remember of my studies, so maybe finally they will help somebody :P
Nice project! But why so thick? More water passing through woundn't be better? And how do i find something like your radiator? Thanks, i'm planing to make a water cooler made of rectangular aluminium used as rail on houses(try "Aluminium rail" on google), what is the thickness that you suggest? Thanks!
Could u pls explain the circuit? each 2 led is in series? all in parallel? Could u make a project using 12v 10w leds? Is it possible to drive with ATX power supply? I mean, 12 units in parallel without driver or resister with an ATX power supply? U have great equipments, is it for fun or u work with? Your video is one of the greatest I've seen in youtube.
The LEDs are wired 2 in series. Five of those [2 in series] blocks are wired in parallel, so 2s5p. These high-power LEDs are only available in 30V, you could do a 12V system using 10w LEDs which run at about 9V and use a dropper resistor off an ATX power supply.
Yep, it's generally fun to work with the equipment, all though it can get monotonous after awhile making many of the same part.
excellent work bro.
At 14:20 you were talking about equal length wires of sufficiently small cross section for the purpose of aiding current sharing. Without having watched yet further, I take it on assumption that you are also designing the LED driver and in such case you have the chance to design a boost driver such that the LED modules may be series connected rather than parallel connected, no?
A little later I show the driver which is a repurposed battery charger that can put out 60V, so that limits the LEDs to two in series. Ideally I'd run them all in series off a non-mains-isolated boost PFC followed by a buck converter, but I don't think the isolation from power circuit to case on those LEDs is up to the task of (safely) holding off that much voltage.
10amps at 60volt is 600watt. far from 1kw as you say.
Very interesting video! I wish I had a machining setup like that. *sigh*
Anyway, for the future: superglue/cyanoacrilate is not a good adhesive for rubber - it hardens and unsticks very easily as soon as any stress is applied at all. A much better solution for a rubber-rubber (or rubber-plastic) bond is cement of the kind sold for patching bicycle tires. I'm sure even better specialised glues are available, but tire cement is dirt-cheap and available anywhere.
Excuse my ignorance, but were the milling operations a blend of CNC and operator control? Specifically the D &T? Were you using CNC to position, and then taking over?
great job, now repeat and sell !!
It would be interesting to see how this projector works with a helicopter or a balloon, can it be used for rescue services for people search ?
5:25 a bad 'Money For Nothing' rip off?
I thought the same
Hi Tesla500,
what kind of power supply/driver did you use on this project?
Would you add a third initial planing pass across the middle? Would it make a difference or just be a waste of time?
your poor cat XD 16:26 sitting right in the beam path, thought that was funny lol im envious of people with milling machines to make these intricate aluminum creations awesome video though, did you by chance by these led lights in bulk? and if so how much per led?
For better turbulence in the water path you could cut sharp steps in the depth of the passages.
If I wanted to build my own light bar for my truck would I need the liquid cooling, or would I be able to get away with using fins like a standard heat sink.
To avoid using O-rings altogether, just machine a slanted surface on both pieces that mates with a very, very small gap in between them (the slanted surfaces themselves), then, inside that channel, put high temperature gasket silicone, the kind you can buy in a small (jumbo sized, tooth paste tube or there about) tube from just about any auto store online or not. Heck, i found mine from an universal mini store for less than two dollars and used it to seal a pressure vessel that i can't find O-rings anymore, for. Waaay less hassle, cheaper, and also, easy to clean, because once it cures, the thing becomes an gasket that you peel off.
Hi, what size are those cooling blocks and shere can I find them? Do you know if there is any squared similar size (400x400mm) cooling block? Thanks!!
Great job 👏👏👏👏
Why did you have the water shield on the milling of the water ways but not for the spot drills?
Hello Tesla! I've a question for you so please help. Did you see the new philips tv? aka ambibox tv? its a led tech and its reflect images and videos. before i saw ambilight homemade versions like using ws2801, ws2812. But this ambibox beyond that! do you have any idea how did they reflect images or videos to wall? i mean is it a diffirent type of led or what is it man? i am gonna crazy thanks!
Awesome skill!
Awesome build here though these L.e.d.'s your using are not the current most advamced one's available i'm thinking of the Latest Cree L.e.d.'s
Hi tesla500, I really like your project and I truly admire aluminium blocks design and a final product. May I ask if you would be willing to share the CAD project of it? I could just go to the first cnc place, give them project and raw material. That would be so much easier than making everything from scratch (like you did!).
So from my experience in liquid cooling of computers. The order In which u run our loop has almost 0 effect of the temperature of the coolent though out the loop. The coolent moves through the loop to quickly to be effected from one spot to the next. The effect that happens is the coolent temp as a whole will rise up and u will see even cooling acose the loop as long as u don't have all your blocks in series and u break the loop up with radiators. Basically what im saying you should worry about different temps across a single block.
i looking forward for The lens i want to know what size this lens are. i looking thesame type of lens but than 50 or 52 mm lengh for my maglite d cel flashlight to get a focus beam. but i dont know were i can buy it have someone some tips or informatian about The lens and how to get it greetings Danny damveld
Hey mane, I was thinking of getting a section of alumn gutter downspout run, stuffing with some filling, and just capping the ends and siliconing really good then using a small pond pump to keep the water moving through out the alumn. Be a heavy fixture but I think keep the leds super cool and be super efficient and super cheap?
Hi.
Just watched your video and it’s a good job.
I want to realize a water cooled leds installation like this for my fish tank whig will use the water of the aquarium.
Like this i will not use a water heater anymore.
Thanks for your ideas
I think the yellowish tinge comes from the light reflected back internally within the lenses illuminating the wooden cover causing the lenses to project the wooden cover back out at the scene. I guess you could paint the cover black or add a mirrored film. Could it be an optical light interference pattern? That would be fascinating.
I can confirm that the same effect happens when using just one 100w LED and eBay reflector and lens, without any wood mounting hardware. It is definitely some fringing produced by the lens, however I don't know if it simply is chromatic aberration or a projection effect. It is annoying for video work, though.