****UPDATE**** Just for your information, I did send a complaint to Vevor last week. opened a trouble ticked and pointed to the Video. The result was that they came back on 05 May by email with an answer. They made an upgrade to the PCB ( controller) that will provide more power . It was offered to me, for free ( hahaha what else right ) . Of course that does not solve the issue with the mechanical parts ( that I will need to fix). And it might not work at all, as the transformer may not be upto it.. equaly it might real hot ... will see.. as soon as I have the PCB, I will make an update video... Thanks for watching and commenting
The only thing that could increase the current of the transformer would be to change the frequency with an electronic switching circuit PCB... I doubt they will go there. It will probably just increase the trigger time of the thyristor. just return the damn thing
The Vevor label is the mark of the beast. They don't specialise in tools or a specific line of products, they specialise in reselling products cheaply, and that is exactly what you get, cheap stuff that resemble the original, but seldom work as the original. The sheer quantity of different products they peddle makes me think that they don't produce the stuff themselves but are a large reseller of cheaply made products.
It seems to be several brands of this stud welder out on market and cheaper knock-offs also. I own one, did buy it in Sweden from a well known tool shop here and it has their own brand but the outside design look is very similar. Since it was some years back I last used it, and I know I had no problems with its function and quality I had to look in my garage if it is the same as your VEVOR. The answer is NO. First my is CE marked, has no such bad quality electrodes that the VEVOR one had. The one I have has no ability on it to select type of studs or make a own time select, it's fully automatic on the time. On the label it says that the output is 4V 800A, that should then correspond to 3200W within a time frame between 1s -5s. As you say "you get what you pay for" and I agree!
Thankyou for this honest review, it's so helpful when looking for budget machines. I've been looking for a budget smoke machine and I'm not paying £600 for something that gets used a couple of times. Amazon has so many options that are all essential the same crap with different badges and price points. All the reviews are nonsense and when searching on youtube you find all those same crap machines being reviewed generally favourably as they where sent free of charge. I gave up.
I have one of these and agree that it is not of great quality. It does however work very well indeed. I have used this on several projects and it performed very well for what I used it for. But as been said, You get what you pay for. But for the home handyman / workshop, good value (IMO)
I have the old Harbor Freight (us tool chain) version which only does studs. No timers no adjustments just pull the trigger and count and release. Other than the fact that the largest size studs are no longer produced by anyone now it's been a decent tool. I would like those newer puller methods but I'm not parting with my working tool. And I don't like that side hammer at all. Mine has a knurled wheel on an eccentric so you can quickly grab a stud and release it as well. Collet type is a bad idea. The one drawback to mine is that the duty cycle is pretty low which wouldn't be a problem for you but for me where it's 110* in the summer the tool can only do a few studs before you have to find somewhere cool for it to rest.
Hi Steve before you chuck it try it again without the extension cord and making sure the outlet you use is rated for the current required. I had the same issue with a spot welder and found a huge current loss through my extension cord and that a 115 volt circuit at 15amps is not the same as 115v at 20 amps:). Cheers from Ian in Canada
I agree that the high mains currents can be a factor in countries where the mains voltage is 115 Volts. However, the mains voltage in Belgium is 240 Volts. Therefore the currents are much lower and less of a factor.
The stud gun looks like it is not getting enough energy (watts = volts x amps). It would be worth a try to remove variables and make sure the gun is getting the required wattage which should be indicated on a attached label.
Ok, thanks but the outlet is rated for 16 amps and so is the socket and cable section.. My Mig fits in without an issue.. this thing is only 800 watt... so max 4 amps
I’m just looking at the online ratings which seem to be all over the board. The quality is poor and it sounds like you got a bad one. It’s unfortunate as the stud gun with those accessories could have been very useful for your repair especially in the tight areas where it’s hard to get a hammer and dolly. I’m looking forward to seeing the rest of this series. Best of luck, cheers Ian
Steve, Thanks for the review but i could see from the video were you tried it on the bodywork that it was junk. There are good makes out there that work really well this just isn't one of them. I have a combo set up with dent puller and double & single spot welder but the double tap spot welder draws too much amps. Cheers Dave
Hi Steve, thanks for the review. If you think their products are bad then you should try making a warranty claim. Nothing but lies, stalling tactics and frustration. They will wear you down and you will lose no matter how much evidence you give them. Worst company I have ever dealt with. Never again.
I can’t complain about VEVOR products. I have one of their ultrasonic cleaners I’ve been using for almost ten years on a fairly frequent basis and it hasn’t failed yet.
I dont have one of this brand, Mine is a Taylor brand) but, these studs are designed to have a straight pull. twisting sideways is used for removing them after the pull. Well thats how mine works
I've seen some videos of people improving Vevor tools. The problem is that we need to be very skilled to achieve some of those improvements. In that case we might end up with a very good cheap tool.
I always wondered if putting solder paste on the tip of the keys or studs that are welded on so it is like also soldering on the attachments, to get better performance. And the solder can easily be removed.
The one I purchased didn't have any side light control buttons. Doesn't work ,with the company giving me my money back and said just keep the unit. This needs more heat current and a longer duration time on the trigger to work at all. I guess I'm going back to just spot welding nails to to cars I do. I loop bend 16 penny nails, spot weld them on both ends and can pull an elephant with them.
Steve - I passed by that it was a Vevor brand tool and now I see why there was a problem. That gun is probably, and I stress probably, OK for newer cars that basically have beer can thickness metal for the body panels. My guess is that there is no way that gun can handle welding studs onto heavier gauge metal of older cars. I would still request you try a better gun from a known manufacturer and see what the results are. I have seen too many videos of commercial quality stud guns being successfully used and really would like to see what level of "hobbyist" quality stud gun can work on classic cars (i.e., not wanting to pay $2,000 for a stud gun that may be used 2 or 3 times a year).
@@D3Sshooter Was just checking some ratings of stud welders and the highest rated tools were in the 3000 watt range as compared to the 800 watts of the Vevor unit. That tool just doesn't have the power to handle any real metal thickness. Maybe if you look in the 1500 to 2000 watt range to see if one of those would work. BTW, the best rated one I came across was from Eastwood, US made, 3000 watt power, and cost about $570 US vs. $165 US for the Vevor unit on Amazon. Maybe Clarke carries something similar to the Eastwood unit for the European market?
The electrodes on the gun that ground to your metal are different lengths....you should file them to equal lengths...your tilted due to the different lengths and not grounding fully..and could be touching across the electrodes and not getting full weld penetration....🤔 regardless it isn't heating up and penetrating enough to hold properly....yes it is what it is ..but many times in 50 plus years i had to slightly tuneup a cheaper tool to work properly....part of buying a cheaper tool is quality is at best sketchy...but sometimes it is something a handyman can fix and get it performing as best as it can.... again..i am not saying this unit is good or bad...they can arrive in bad working condition and frustrate you...but i buy knowing it will need some TLC to keep.... my first observation is the same..it isn't penetrating...the thickness of metal doesn't matter as it will burn " X " deep regardless... cleaning the metal perfectly might also help make it weld better?? it should hold long enough to slidehammer a few good whacks minimum...yes your old car has better metal ( thicker ) so it won't work the same as a newer vehicle would with this type of tool..but a good welded pin will not pop off easily... 🇨🇦🤓🤟
I firmly believe in the saying that if someone claims to offer Price, Quality and Service all at once, they are either fooling themselves or lying to you. However, if you do come across someone who delivers on all three - consider yourself lucky and buy lotto tickets with them. Speaking of my personal experience, I own a Vevor ultrasonic cleaner which has served its purpose well. However, I have noticed that the handles are not easy to grip, and the machine is pretty loud. In case it fails, I will make sure to test the sound level of the replacement unit."
An excellent review, Steve. Ofc course you're a pro and you know how to present information well. Send this thing back for a full refund and then share this review with whoever makes the best one and offer to test one of their units! This guy shows demonstrates a similar peoduct (also cheap) with a different head design. I wonder if that's part of the problem! th-cam.com/video/jy_cVxfaq28/w-d-xo.html This one shows a similar tip design and some better adjustments. th-cam.com/video/CjBmSZry5Oo/w-d-xo.html
Should really try to fix those crooked electrodes before any serious work. Now about the weld strength it IS supposed to seperate by wiggling. What we're interested is does it hold for pulling the metal back. And not leave too much of a mess. (too burned base). And about the transformer wires, it's probably red painted AL. Could scratch and test for us.
Yes , I could try to fix those electrode, or remove them and work with ground cable, I know that wiggling is the way to remove the stud, but it should take a bit of force not like these here
They should NOT come off by wiggling them ! When welded on properly you have to cut them off with side cutters and then grind the head off of the panel , been using my H&S auto shot stud welder for years
This machine seems unusually underpowered overall, but aren't you using a welding machine designed for 220V with a 100V power supply? Chinese vendors often do not specify even basic specifications...
might be "good enough" for (lipo)battery terminals. but then again it's not that hard to make your own that uses lipo cells to attach terminal strips to lipo cells.
It is pathetic, what were they thinking when they made this junk. But then we are surrounded by el-cheapo stuff nowadays. If you want to tools or machines for your workshop, I say go for European and Japanese hardware. Old brands such as AEG, Bosch, Siemens, Gedore, Stahlwille, Koken and other known industrial standard manufacturers. They are pricey but you can look into the second hand market, and good things can at times come up at very good prices. And Steve, how is the plastic waste situation with the council authorities in your country like? If gadgets were made properly, there would be less waste. 🐞
I have to agree, that’s a very poor quality machine. I would love to see a better quality machine and how it compares.. maybe a European manufacturer would lend you one to try ?
Steve, you can't just grab a piece of rusty dirty metal out of the scrap pile. Try using a grinder to get the metal shiny, you'll have much better results. I use a cheap unit sold by Harbor Freight here in the US of A (commonly referred to as horror fright). It has none of the settings that are on your Vevor. It works just fine for my needs. I would call your testing a huge FAIL! Practice, practice, practice!
Thanks for the comments , I did brushed the metal, its not rusty where I tested it . And it was not the only piece that I tested.. besides all the other issues it has (bend nose etc...) . I am sure that what you have is a lot better, I have seen them on YT... have a great day
To get you to swear means for sure this vevor is a piece of shit 😂thanks for uploading your stuff - following along some of your z3 playlist which I’ve studied for the last month once engine is reassembled.
Thanks for the comments , I have dropped them a complain and a link ti the video. Told them that if they correct the issue ,I will also make a video on it...lets see what they do
****UPDATE****
Just for your information, I did send a complaint to Vevor last week. opened a trouble ticked and pointed to the Video. The result was that they came back on 05 May by email with an answer. They made an upgrade to the PCB ( controller) that will provide more power . It was offered to me, for free ( hahaha what else right ) . Of course that does not solve the issue with the mechanical parts ( that I will need to fix). And it might not work at all, as the transformer may not be upto it.. equaly it might real hot ... will see.. as soon as I have the PCB, I will make an update video... Thanks for watching and commenting
The only thing that could increase the current of the transformer would be to change the frequency with an electronic switching circuit PCB... I doubt they will go there. It will probably just increase the trigger time of the thyristor. just return the damn thing
@@nabsp That is also what I expect, anyhow I will see how far they will go...
waay off topic but do you have curve sheet for the 123 distributor in your racecar? And hows that prep going?
Hey Steve
Thank you for your honest demonstration of this tool, you made it very interesting as well.
Take care and Happy Weekend 😊
You are very welcome
The Vevor label is the mark of the beast. They don't specialise in tools or a specific line of products, they specialise in reselling products cheaply, and that is exactly what you get, cheap stuff that resemble the original, but seldom work as the original. The sheer quantity of different products they peddle makes me think that they don't produce the stuff themselves but are a large reseller of cheaply made products.
Indeed, and as you say "you get what you pay for"
It seems to be several brands of this stud welder out on market and cheaper knock-offs also. I own one, did buy it in Sweden from a well known tool shop here and it has their own brand but the outside design look is very similar. Since it was some years back I last used it, and I know I had no problems with its function and quality I had to look in my garage if it is the same as your VEVOR. The answer is NO. First my is CE marked, has no such bad quality electrodes that the VEVOR one had. The one I have has no ability on it to select type of studs or make a own time select, it's fully automatic on the time. On the label it says that the output is 4V 800A, that should then correspond to 3200W within a time frame between 1s -5s. As you say "you get what you pay for" and I agree!
Thanks for the feedback
Thankyou for this honest review, it's so helpful when looking for budget machines.
I've been looking for a budget smoke machine and I'm not paying £600 for something that gets used a couple of times.
Amazon has so many options that are all essential the same crap with different badges and price points.
All the reviews are nonsense and when searching on youtube you find all those same crap machines being reviewed generally favourably as they where sent free of charge.
I gave up.
Thanks for the feedback
I have one of these and agree that it is not of great quality. It does however work very well indeed.
I have used this on several projects and it performed very well for what I used it for.
But as been said, You get what you pay for. But for the home handyman / workshop, good value (IMO)
It is IMO useless , unless you have another type
I have the old Harbor Freight (us tool chain) version which only does studs. No timers no adjustments just pull the trigger and count and release. Other than the fact that the largest size studs are no longer produced by anyone now it's been a decent tool. I would like those newer puller methods but I'm not parting with my working tool. And I don't like that side hammer at all. Mine has a knurled wheel on an eccentric so you can quickly grab a stud and release it as well. Collet type is a bad idea.
The one drawback to mine is that the duty cycle is pretty low which wouldn't be a problem for you but for me where it's 110* in the summer the tool can only do a few studs before you have to find somewhere cool for it to rest.
Thanks for the comments...
Hi Steve before you chuck it try it again without the extension cord and making sure the outlet you use is rated for the current required. I had the same issue with a spot welder and found a huge current loss through my extension cord and that a 115 volt circuit at 15amps is not the same as 115v at 20 amps:). Cheers from Ian in Canada
I agree that the high mains currents can be a factor in countries where the mains voltage is 115 Volts. However, the mains voltage in Belgium is 240 Volts. Therefore the currents are much lower and less of a factor.
The stud gun looks like it is not getting enough energy (watts = volts x amps). It would be worth a try to remove variables and make sure the gun is getting the required wattage which should be indicated on a attached label.
Ok, thanks but the outlet is rated for 16 amps and so is the socket and cable section.. My Mig fits in without an issue.. this thing is only 800 watt... so max 4 amps
It just does not have the power
I’m just looking at the online ratings which seem to be all over the board. The quality is poor and it sounds like you got a bad one. It’s unfortunate as the stud gun with those accessories could have been very useful for your repair especially in the tight areas where it’s hard to get a hammer and dolly. I’m looking forward to seeing the rest of this series. Best of luck, cheers Ian
Good honest review! Thank you. I'll stick with screws, slide hammer, grinding and finnish with bondo.
Indeed, thanks
Good demo. Thanks, Steve. 👍
My pleasure!
Steve, Thanks for the review but i could see from the video were you tried it on the bodywork that it was junk. There are good makes out there that work really well
this just isn't one of them. I have a combo set up with dent puller and double & single spot welder but the double tap spot welder draws too much amps. Cheers Dave
Thanks for the feedback Dave
Hi Steve, thanks for the review. If you think their products are bad then you should try making a warranty claim. Nothing but lies, stalling tactics and frustration. They will wear you down and you will lose no matter how much evidence you give them. Worst company I have ever dealt with. Never again.
Thanks Jack, I could... but you know what .... I am not going to spend any of my precious time on them...
I can’t complain about VEVOR products. I have one of their ultrasonic cleaners I’ve been using for almost ten years on a fairly frequent basis and it hasn’t failed yet.
Good to hear, I also have a dent puller bridge from Vevor and that is ok... This stud welder well .... you have seen it
I dont have one of this brand, Mine is a Taylor brand) but, these studs are designed to have a straight pull.
twisting sideways is used for removing them after the pull.
Well thats how mine works
Thanks for the comments and yes that is an issue on this one
You can see it touching the Electrode when you welded around 10:00
that tilt and bent center electrode is making it shutoff too soon...
🇨🇦🤓🤟
sometimes , indeed..although I paid attention not to short
I've seen some videos of people improving Vevor tools. The problem is that we need to be very skilled to achieve some of those improvements. In that case we might end up with a very good cheap tool.
Thanks for the feedback
I always wondered if putting solder paste on the tip of the keys or studs that are welded on so it is like also soldering on the attachments, to get better performance. And the solder can easily be removed.
The one I purchased didn't have any side light control buttons. Doesn't work ,with the company giving me my money back and said just keep the unit. This needs more heat current and a longer duration time on the trigger to work at all. I guess I'm going back to just spot welding nails to to cars I do. I loop bend 16 penny nails, spot weld them on both ends and can pull an elephant with them.
Thank you. You nailed it. Definitely a "SUB worthy" video p.s. Magnificent MGA
Thanks, the MGA is under rebuild
Steve - I passed by that it was a Vevor brand tool and now I see why there was a problem. That gun is probably, and I stress probably, OK for newer cars that basically have beer can thickness metal for the body panels. My guess is that there is no way that gun can handle welding studs onto heavier gauge metal of older cars. I would still request you try a better gun from a known manufacturer and see what the results are. I have seen too many videos of commercial quality stud guns being successfully used and really would like to see what level of "hobbyist" quality stud gun can work on classic cars (i.e., not wanting to pay $2,000 for a stud gun that may be used 2 or 3 times a year).
Indeed, it is poor assembly, not precise and under powered. I might just do that, get another one to test
@@D3Sshooter Was just checking some ratings of stud welders and the highest rated tools were in the 3000 watt range as compared to the 800 watts of the Vevor unit. That tool just doesn't have the power to handle any real metal thickness. Maybe if you look in the 1500 to 2000 watt range to see if one of those would work. BTW, the best rated one I came across was from Eastwood, US made, 3000 watt power, and cost about $570 US vs. $165 US for the Vevor unit on Amazon. Maybe Clarke carries something similar to the Eastwood unit for the European market?
Looks to me the welding post is cross arcing .try keeping a space between the nail and the post earth .
I know and I did check that , avoiding it and still the results are as you see them
The electrodes on the gun that ground to your metal are different lengths....you should file them to equal lengths...your tilted due to the different lengths and not grounding fully..and could be touching across the electrodes and not getting full weld penetration....🤔
regardless it isn't heating up and penetrating enough to hold properly....yes it is what it is ..but many times in 50 plus years i had to slightly tuneup a cheaper tool to work properly....part of buying a cheaper tool is quality is at best sketchy...but sometimes it is something a handyman can fix and get it performing as best as it can....
again..i am not saying this unit is good or bad...they can arrive in bad working condition and frustrate you...but i buy knowing it will need some TLC to keep.... my first observation is the same..it isn't penetrating...the thickness of metal doesn't matter as it will burn " X " deep regardless... cleaning the metal perfectly might also help make it weld better?? it should hold long enough to slidehammer a few good whacks minimum...yes your old car has better metal ( thicker ) so it won't work the same as a newer vehicle would with this type of tool..but a good welded pin will not pop off easily...
🇨🇦🤓🤟
Thanks for the comments and explanations
I firmly believe in the saying that if someone claims to offer Price, Quality and Service all at once, they are either fooling themselves or lying to you. However, if you do come across someone who delivers on all three - consider yourself lucky and buy lotto tickets with them. Speaking of my personal experience, I own a Vevor ultrasonic cleaner which has served its purpose well. However, I have noticed that the handles are not easy to grip, and the machine is pretty loud. In case it fails, I will make sure to test the sound level of the replacement unit."
indeed
The fact that those washers are galvanized doesn't really help either. The current is probably too weak to penetrate the zink layer.
Thanks for the feedback
if you read the instrucktions you are meant to pull them out streight not from side to side until you want to detach them
Yes indeed.
👍
An excellent review, Steve. Ofc course you're a pro and you know how to present information well. Send this thing back for a full refund and then share this review with whoever makes the best one and offer to test one of their units! This guy shows demonstrates a similar peoduct (also cheap) with a different head design. I wonder if that's part of the problem! th-cam.com/video/jy_cVxfaq28/w-d-xo.html This one shows a similar tip design and some better adjustments. th-cam.com/video/CjBmSZry5Oo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, will do!
Seems some current msy leak thru badly aligned contacts..
Oh my
Should really try to fix those crooked electrodes before any serious work. Now about the weld strength it IS supposed to seperate by wiggling. What we're interested is does it hold for pulling the metal back. And not leave too much of a mess. (too burned base). And about the transformer wires, it's probably red painted AL. Could scratch and test for us.
Yes , I could try to fix those electrode, or remove them and work with ground cable, I know that wiggling is the way to remove the stud, but it should take a bit of force not like these here
They should NOT come off by wiggling them ! When welded on properly you have to cut them off with side cutters and then grind the head off of the panel , been using my H&S auto shot stud welder for years
This machine seems unusually underpowered overall, but aren't you using a welding machine designed for 220V with a 100V power supply? Chinese vendors often do not specify even basic specifications...
No , its rated for 220V....and the power supply is 220v
might be "good enough" for (lipo)battery terminals.
but then again it's not that hard to make your own that uses lipo cells to attach terminal strips to lipo cells.
Indeed, and I will use my MIG in spot mode using some of these parts like the adaptors
It is pathetic, what were they thinking when they made this junk. But then we are surrounded by el-cheapo stuff nowadays.
If you want to tools or machines for your workshop, I say go for European and Japanese hardware. Old brands such as AEG, Bosch, Siemens, Gedore, Stahlwille, Koken and other known industrial standard manufacturers. They are pricey but you can look into the second hand market, and good things can at times come up at very good prices.
And Steve, how is the plastic waste situation with the council authorities in your country like? If gadgets were made properly, there would be less waste. 🐞
Thanks for the feedback
金屬表面的油漆面要摩掉
很明显，只要看视频你就会发现油漆确实被去除了
China things are just bad things Steve. To tell the truth
Moshitoa south Africa
Indeed my friend, how are you doing lately , all OK ?
I have to agree, that’s a very poor quality machine. I would love to see a better quality machine and how it compares.. maybe a European manufacturer would lend you one to try ?
Thanks for the feedback
Steve, you can't just grab a piece of rusty dirty metal out of the scrap pile. Try using a grinder to get the metal shiny, you'll have much better results. I use a cheap unit sold by Harbor Freight here in the US of A (commonly referred to as horror fright). It has none of the settings that are on your Vevor. It works just fine for my needs. I would call your testing a huge FAIL! Practice, practice, practice!
Thanks for the comments , I did brushed the metal, its not rusty where I tested it . And it was not the only piece that I tested.. besides all the other issues it has (bend nose etc...) . I am sure that what you have is a lot better, I have seen them on YT... have a great day
To get you to swear means for sure this vevor is a piece of shit 😂thanks for uploading your stuff - following along some of your z3 playlist which I’ve studied for the last month once engine is reassembled.
You should send that back to wherever you bought that. That is not of saleable quality for 200 euros or whatever you paid for it.
Thanks for the comments , I have dropped them a complain and a link ti the video. Told them that if they correct the issue ,I will also make a video on it...lets see what they do
What a waste of copper.
Indeed
Return for a full refund. It’s not “fit for purpose “.
Thanks for the feedback
....and it looks so inviting on their Instagram advertising👎🤣
Thanks for the comments , indeed all fake commercial decpetion
Dreadful.... It's simply not fit for purpose. The other thing is the comical size of the welder gun.. Ridiculous
Thanks for the comments
Pretty sure 'Vevor' means 'Rubbish' in Chinese. Return it for a refund.