Have a look online. There are a number of videos of people gently drilling the breach end of the barrel out with a 5.5mm drill bit as a lot of the barrels left the factory without being deburred properly. Resulting in stiff loading and odd flying pellets. You need a brand new drill bit. Plenty of oil and just take it up to where the transfer port hole is, no deeper. Make sure you clean any swarf or crap out of there and you will have a beautifully loading and firing gun. It's s common problem on all the diana/smk/artemis guns. If memory serves me someones done a tutorial on an SMK CP2, and a cracking one by as Aussie lad that turned his cheap co2 rifle into an absolute beast! If you are still fettling with this gun. Let me know and I'll dig the videos out :-). Liked and subbed!
You can arrange the spacers and baffles in a different order. Standard the longest spacer is in te first part of the silencer behind the first baffle to create a first big pocket to divert and capture the CO2 from the barrel. You can place this longest spacer like two spacers an baffles towards the middle of the silencer to create a second big air pocket....(you will see that there is already a pocket from the barrel to the firts baffle in the silencer before this longest spacer). When dissasembled it should arrange and alline itself without much trouble when you put it back together . But do inspect looking in to a light after assembly if all baffles and spacers are in line. To bad the chaser silencer is so narrow a larger one would make it more silent...
I’ll bet you could even use a dowel or cleaning rod to align and drop in or maybe use painters tape to hold in a orderly fashion and even takes up a little slop in the baffles
I have a Diana Chaser also and I understand what you're talking about the little fragments of pellet that can be stuck in the breach I think the pellets are getting clipped by the moderator when you run the CO2 too far down and the pellets don't have enough velocity and the pieces of pellet are falling down the barrel into the breach when your man handling the gun around naturally
You are spot on in your deduction of the situation. The same thing applies to the bandit and probably any other moderator/silencer being used under low low pressure. Bigger pellets moving slowly banging it's way out of the barrell and let's just say its lead skirt is scratched or distorted in any way, then it comes slower than normal out of the barrell and hits the first moderator baffle and it turns it or changes the trajectory of it and by the time it comes out of the end of the moderator its sideways. You can see that on the target. So you have the right solution and that's not to shoot at low pressures. I think the wadcutters are the worst to do that since they are lighter on the front end anyway...
PS. I tbink the silencer is glued on with red loctite. Warm heatgun and some gentle persuasion will get it off. You might melt your front "iron" sight off as it's only plastic. Which is never a bad thing if you are using an optic!
I took the moderator off my .177 Diana Chaser which looks exactly the same, the arrangement of the spacers was different. The longest spacer was the one closest to the end of the barrel. Not sure if that makes any difference.
I'll pop my moderator off tomorrow and have a look inside mine to see if it's the same. You should try a string without the moderator on, it's a bit loud but will eliminate that issue.
line the baffles up on your cleaning rode that fits and insert them that way into the tube. Also it odd to me that the large spacer is up front - normally the tube starts with a big expansion chamber and then a set of short baffle sections to slow the gas flow. Haven't yet taken my Stormrider apart but this looks off to all my other airgun suppressors.
Sideshowbobx I’m on track with your thinkin as well. I’ve built numerous solvent traps 🤫 before and the best outcome was a titanium pressure chamber followed by cones and maybe another smaller chamber with an xtra large spacer and ported cup lastly but that’s with powder burners and serious pressures
How do you get the moderator off? Mine seems like it's seized on. Figured it out, there was red loctite on the threads. I'll need to sand and repaint to make it look pretty again. Any ideas of how to mod the moderator to help quiet it down a bit more?
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Have a look online. There are a number of videos of people gently drilling the breach end of the barrel out with a 5.5mm drill bit as a lot of the barrels left the factory without being deburred properly. Resulting in stiff loading and odd flying pellets. You need a brand new drill bit. Plenty of oil and just take it up to where the transfer port hole is, no deeper. Make sure you clean any swarf or crap out of there and you will have a beautifully loading and firing gun. It's s common problem on all the diana/smk/artemis guns. If memory serves me someones done a tutorial on an SMK CP2, and a cracking one by as Aussie lad that turned his cheap co2 rifle into an absolute beast! If you are still fettling with this gun. Let me know and I'll dig the videos out :-). Liked and subbed!
You can arrange the spacers and baffles in a different order. Standard the longest spacer is in te first part of the silencer behind the first baffle to create a first big pocket to divert and capture the CO2 from the barrel. You can place this longest spacer like two spacers an baffles towards the middle of the silencer to create a second big air pocket....(you will see that there is already a pocket from the barrel to the firts baffle in the silencer before this longest spacer).
When dissasembled it should arrange and alline itself without much trouble when you put it back together . But do inspect looking in to a light after assembly if all baffles and spacers are in line. To bad the chaser silencer is so narrow a larger one would make it more silent...
This is why it is stiff to load a pellet, some people are hand drilling the barrel around the entrance to remove and smooth any burrs.
I’ll bet you could even use a dowel or cleaning rod to align and drop in or maybe use painters tape to hold in a orderly fashion and even takes up a little slop in the baffles
There's also a rubber o ring that most people lose. Pro tip: Stack the pieces and then lower the sleeve over the stack.
I have a Diana Chaser also and I understand what you're talking about the little fragments of pellet that can be stuck in the breach I think the pellets are getting clipped by the moderator when you run the CO2 too far down and the pellets don't have enough velocity and the pieces of pellet are falling down the barrel into the breach when your man handling the gun around naturally
You are spot on in your deduction of the situation. The same thing applies to the bandit and probably any other moderator/silencer being used under low low pressure. Bigger pellets moving slowly banging it's way out of the barrell and let's just say its lead skirt is scratched or distorted in any way, then it comes slower than normal out of the barrell and hits the first moderator baffle and it turns it or changes the trajectory of it and by the time it comes out of the end of the moderator its sideways. You can see that on the target. So you have the right solution and that's not to shoot at low pressures. I think the wadcutters are the worst to do that since they are lighter on the front end anyway...
PS. I tbink the silencer is glued on with red loctite. Warm heatgun and some gentle persuasion will get it off. You might melt your front "iron" sight off as it's only plastic. Which is never a bad thing if you are using an optic!
This is why parkerhale supplies a rod for disassembly
I took the moderator off my .177 Diana Chaser which looks exactly the same, the arrangement of the spacers was different. The longest spacer was the one closest to the end of the barrel. Not sure if that makes any difference.
I have a .22 bandit and that’s exactly how my spacers were arranged...long spacer closest to the barrel.
Very interested to see the outcome 👍👍
Could you use a wooden dowel or something to use as a guide?
I'll pop my moderator off tomorrow and have a look inside mine to see if it's the same.
You should try a string without the moderator on, it's a bit loud but will eliminate that issue.
Use a dow rod iserting down the baffels during remval and reassembly. This will keep them from flipping and keep them centered during reassembly.
Phillips screwdriver is easier
line the baffles up on your cleaning rode that fits and insert them that way into the tube. Also it odd to me that the large spacer is up front - normally the tube starts with a big expansion chamber and then a set of short baffle sections to slow the gas flow. Haven't yet taken my Stormrider apart but this looks off to all my other airgun suppressors.
Sideshowbobx I’m on track with your thinkin as well. I’ve built numerous solvent traps 🤫 before and the best outcome was a titanium pressure chamber followed by cones and maybe another smaller chamber with an xtra large spacer and ported cup lastly but that’s with powder burners and serious pressures
Where does the O-ring go?
How do you get the moderator off? Mine seems like it's seized on.
Figured it out, there was red loctite on the threads. I'll need to sand and repaint to make it look pretty again.
Any ideas of how to mod the moderator to help quiet it down a bit more?
Can the silencer be removed. The part with the front sight? Is it pressed on or threaded?
Hello! Where did you find the technical drawing? Untill now I did not find one! Thank you for sharing this video.
Here you go: spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/PP800-Diana-Bandit.pdf
Is this the second gun.
The version pp800 the silencer is optional. They give you a screw cap to replace the silencer.
Hello..you can help me.I just bought a diana brandit piston.22 caliber. How to remove the silencer from the barrel..Thank you
If you're in the USA they're fixed by Loctite but if you wiggle it back and forth enough eventually it will break loose
I was able to unscrew the suppressor from the barrel with a gentle firm turning pressure. Also, my pistol came with a barrel end cap too.
That should just unscrew without all the baffles falling out.
And is there not 3 Allen screws holding the barrel into the gun ?
Yes. I had already loosened them.
Stack them up then slide the tube over the stack.
Interesting