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Works great. Need to get a feel of the distance it takes each step. I would rather have an implementation where I can set in- and out point with focus and then just the amount of steps.... but hey, not complaining!
I agree. I have been using a Sony A7III with a WeMacro Rail, and then using the PhotoPills calculator to determine how many steps I need and the step size with excellent results. This feature in my A6700 is good but requires a lot of trial and error. I find the procedure very hit and miss for my tabletop photography, so went back to the rail.
This is what I was going to ask, I guess number of shots determines the total depth? I do have photo pills and someone else noted, didn't know it does this but seems like a good starting point for number of images.
How can I control the range that is being covered by the camera? Sometimes I dont want the absoute foreground th be in focus, I mostly dont want the background sharp. How is that achieved? Do I have to go with the trial and error principle by adjusting the step width and step number? Would have been nice to implement the function where I can choose the nearest and farest point I want to have in focus...
I agree. I have been using a Sony A7III with a WeMacro Rail, and then using the PhotoPills calculator to determine how many steps I need and the step size with excellent results. This feature in my A6700 is good but requires a lot of trial and error. I find the procedure very hit and miss for my tabletop photography, so went back to the rail.
One simple solution would be to discard the first and last one or two images which are the ones which would have the foreground and background sharp before you process the layers into your stacked image
Hi Stefan, Thank you so much for this tutorial. I tried it but my Sony remains focused on the same spot. Should I switch the Tamron 35-150 to manual focus?
I have the same issue with the same lens... Maybe it's lens related. Unfortunately I'm travelling right now and don't have any other AF lenses with me to try
I am guessing there is no way to set the focus area, correct. It more determined by your aperture and number of shots you pick? Also if it doing near to far, do I have to focus on the foreground and then it moves back? I've done a few where I focused in the middle. Some came out OK, others still had a lot not in focus.
Yes there is. Set your focus point to Spot and place it on the very closest point of your subject to the camera. The camera will then work its way back through the image to the furthest away point using the intervals you have selected on the 1 (Narrow) to 10 (Wide) scale and taking the number of images (up to 299 maximum) that you have chosen. If you start in the middle it will only give you in-focus shots from there to the furthest away point.
hello Stefan that's very interesting video , I am planning to buy the Sony A7 4, but from factory can I jump just right into this new update or I have to install first the previous update?..
How fast can it focus bracket? I'm curious how quickly it can complete the bracketing process if shooting high speed continuous at something like 1/200
Why would you remove it when it's great in a couple of situations like the portrait mode of taking photos from the floor. Some people don't like it and some like me it's great. Otherwise, don't expect any revolutionary change between the current model and the new one. It will probably get AI capabilities, maybe a direct button for simulations and a couple of little things that will raise the price again typical of Sony. We can hope for a departure from the a7IV that will make a difference, perhaps in the sixth model, but more likely only in the seventh. Until then, enjoy this one.
It's not true at all. It is more difficult for sure macro photographers have been making massive stacks on live subjects forever. I routinely get successful 15 image stacks in the most ethical ways possible. Macro is very challenging, but this keeps some coming back. I use focus stacking in landscape all the time, too. As long as the wind isn't blowing a gale, you get good results there, too. Waving grass, rapidly moving streams, etc. can cause headaches.
@@gerrypi51 Depends, if you want to do macro photography of living insects cameras like the OM-1 offer focus bracketing with around 20 fps and a higher magnification ratio. They are less good for landscape though bc of lower dynamic range. There is no perfect camera :)
If you like these videos, make sure to hit that like and subscribe button and drop a comment below! Its the best way to support the work I do here and is much appreciated!
This is going to be a game changer for macro photography!
This is fantastic! Thank you for the walkthrough. It makes it simpler to get started
Amazing tutorial
WOW. 😍I am updating to V4 AND I also own Luminar Neo. 🤩🤩🤩
It's a great combo!
Awesome, I had no clue how to use it.
Works great. Need to get a feel of the distance it takes each step. I would rather have an implementation where I can set in- and out point with focus and then just the amount of steps.... but hey, not complaining!
I agree. I have been using a Sony A7III with a WeMacro Rail, and then using the PhotoPills calculator to determine how many steps I need and the step size with excellent results. This feature in my A6700 is good but requires a lot of trial and error. I find the procedure very hit and miss for my tabletop photography, so went back to the rail.
This is what I was going to ask, I guess number of shots determines the total depth? I do have photo pills and someone else noted, didn't know it does this but seems like a good starting point for number of images.
I cannot find that section in my luminar neo to drop the pictures there. I do have the latest update of luminar neo😮
Thanks, good introduction. Could you do an example of something large or a landscape?
How can I control the range that is being covered by the camera? Sometimes I dont want the absoute foreground th be in focus, I mostly dont want the background sharp. How is that achieved? Do I have to go with the trial and error principle by adjusting the step width and step number?
Would have been nice to implement the function where I can choose the nearest and farest point I want to have in focus...
I agree. I have been using a Sony A7III with a WeMacro Rail, and then using the PhotoPills calculator to determine how many steps I need and the step size with excellent results. This feature in my A6700 is good but requires a lot of trial and error. I find the procedure very hit and miss for my tabletop photography, so went back to the rail.
One simple solution would be to discard the first and last one or two images which are the ones which would have the foreground and background sharp before you process the layers into your stacked image
I'm actually going to happy cry i didn't think this would ever happen
which lens did you use?
Hi Stefan, Thank you so much for this tutorial. I tried it but my Sony remains focused on the same spot. Should I switch the Tamron 35-150 to manual focus?
Just give it a try, does your sony lens have Autofocus?
I have the same issue with the same lens... Maybe it's lens related. Unfortunately I'm travelling right now and don't have any other AF lenses with me to try
I tried it with my Sony 90mm f2. 8 and it worked. Will try it again on the tamron
The way I’ve gotten focus bracketing to work is to have the camera body set to manual focus and the lens (a Sigma 70mm macro) set to autofocus mode
No. You must use autofocus to enable the camera to adjust focus as it works its way through the image.
I am guessing there is no way to set the focus area, correct. It more determined by your aperture and number of shots you pick? Also if it doing near to far, do I have to focus on the foreground and then it moves back? I've done a few where I focused in the middle. Some came out OK, others still had a lot not in focus.
Yes there is. Set your focus point to Spot and place it on the very closest point of your subject to the camera. The camera will then work its way back through the image to the furthest away point using the intervals you have selected on the 1 (Narrow) to 10 (Wide) scale and taking the number of images (up to 299 maximum) that you have chosen. If you start in the middle it will only give you in-focus shots from there to the furthest away point.
hello Stefan that's very interesting video , I am planning to buy the Sony A7 4, but from factory can I jump just right into this new update or I have to install first the previous update?..
You'll have to update to previous firmware first. Sony's website has the instructions when you go to download. Read them completely
Hello, can I update from version 1.05 directly to version 4???
Does it work with flash?
I dont see why not. Set your exposure timer to long enough for your flash to fire each shot. I'll try it out.
Thanks
How fast can it focus bracket? I'm curious how quickly it can complete the bracketing process if shooting high speed continuous at something like 1/200
Try it and see.
Separate software is required for stacking?
Yes it does not stack in camera. Only takes the shots at different focus intervals.
I have the A7r4a. Sony (Europe) tell me that no such update to allow Focus Bracketing is available for my camera.
A7IV Focus Bracking has a glitch, can't activate recall custom hold.
Is the percentage of 3rd party batteries still displayed after an update from 1.10 to 4.0?
It shows for a minute after start up then disappears.
Does it not combine the photos in-camera?
No, you have to do it in post.
Does Sony A7 iv have focus bracketing?
yes the new V4.0 has the feature now.
Ordine di esposizione a forcella, in quel caso scatta la prima foto nel punto più vicino fino al più lontano, a seconda della larghezza del passo
Doesn't seems to work on my a7IV, it takes just one exposure no matter how mani shots i set or distance :/
There are a few focus bracket settings. One is single and the other continuous. Make sure you're on the continuous one.
Why not just use a smaller aperture?
As you stop down you lose image quality. Most lenses will have their best IQ from F5-8
try it.
its a great feature this , look fwd to it on the a7v without that flippy screen Sony has been obsessed with for last few years
Why would you remove it when it's great in a couple of situations like the portrait mode of taking photos from the floor. Some people don't like it and some like me it's great. Otherwise, don't expect any revolutionary change between the current model and the new one. It will probably get AI capabilities, maybe a direct button for simulations and a couple of little things that will raise the price again typical of Sony. We can hope for a departure from the a7IV that will make a difference, perhaps in the sixth model, but more likely only in the seventh. Until then, enjoy this one.
@@box_zero Sony have not given us a non hinged flip out screen under 3.5 grand since the a7iii & as much as some like it , I and many do not .
haters gonna find any chance to hate.
@@allensmithee6911 I love Sony products , its CC not hate
If you don't like the "flippy screen" then just don't use it - it's not compulsory !!
This means that focus bracketing is only possible with stationary objects. A living insect is therefore not possible?!
Yes, that's the limitation of focus bracketing.
It's not true at all. It is more difficult for sure macro photographers have been making massive stacks on live subjects forever. I routinely get successful 15 image stacks in the most ethical ways possible. Macro is very challenging, but this keeps some coming back. I use focus stacking in landscape all the time, too. As long as the wind isn't blowing a gale, you get good results there, too. Waving grass, rapidly moving streams, etc. can cause headaches.
It depends on the speed of the stacking. There are cameras that do 20 bracketed images per second
@@QuarktaschemitSenf So Sony A7S3 or A74 with 10 fotos / sec.! (RAW+ jpeg)?
@@gerrypi51 Depends, if you want to do macro photography of living insects cameras like the OM-1 offer focus bracketing with around 20 fps and a higher magnification ratio.
They are less good for landscape though bc of lower dynamic range. There is no perfect camera :)