the green brick is the best bang for buck in the game. it has so much range. you can use right from flatting, to some slurry , the slurry with a bit of water to just water. I have gotten almost mirror edges after stroping with gunny juice 3,1 and.5. great video brother.
Thank you for this video. I have a stubborn Miyabi stainless knife that looks like a saw blade. Your methods here will help me greatly sharpen my knife!
Honestly you should likely just ask someone that knows what they're doing before you damage it even further. And then next time stick to more robust knives that you're less likely to damage in the way YOU use them. A knife that badly chipped out will need to be taken to a course stone, closer to 200 than 2000 grit to remove the damage at the edge first, THEN you can sharpen it on a 2000 grit or whatever sharpening stone you want. BUT if that damage is bad enough the knife might need to be thinned in order to maintain it's cutting ability, then again if you're so liekly to damage it maybe it's better to skip that bit and keep it thicker.
I’ve had my eye on this stone for awhile! My 3 stone setup works good for me (King Deluxe 300, Shapton Pro 1000, Shapton Pro 2000). Might make the switch on the 2K when the Shapton eventually wears out.
Just started wet shaving. I've been a knife sharpener for a while. I own several stones and I just purchased a 9k, 12k and a coticule.What microscope do you use. I would like to see the progression of the razor from stone to stone. Thanks.
The burr comes easier on the second side because you've already ground the edge down to a thin apex. Much of the grinding on the first side is just getting down to the actual apex...especially after you've totally removed the edge like you did to get rid of the jagged steel. Had you looked directly down on the edge after that procedure you would've seen a large reflective flat that then had to be ground back to an apex...which takes some grind time.
Everytime i see one of your videos i hope it’s going to be on the concave subject 😅 I also started with knives when i worked as a chef and it drove me to SR.
Hey Dr Matt! This video is just in time. What I am looking to take care of is my hunting skinner knife. Would the green brick yield the same result in my hunting knife like your professional knife? Also when do you anticipate getting the Atoma 400 back in stock? Thank you!
Yes, will definitely give a great edge to a hunting knife! Regarding the diamond plate, if you enter your name in the notification, you’ll receive an email when they’re in. It’s usually not too long of a wait.
Dr Matt. Is there a difference between a 5/8 vs 6/8 in sharpness? I can imagine that the angle is shallower with an 6/8 or even 7/8. Does dat mean that although it will be more difficult to make corners etc but it will be sharper?
Good question J. The angle is a function of width of the blade and thickness of the spine. You’re correct in assuming the angle would be shallower on a wider blade like 6/8 compared to 5/8 but IF AND ONLY IF the spine thickness is the same. Usually manufacturers will start with a thicker stock for a wider blade if they’re up on their geometry. 😁 I have a video on just this subject where I get more in depth on it. It’s called bevel angle something or another.
@@drmatt357 as a tech geek I love your videos. And going to watch more of them. On topic : will there be a difference in sharpness then with a Dovo best quality 5/8( I own) vs 6/8th. And what would be the benefit of a far more expensive Dovo 300 euros versions. Keep in mind that i am Dutch so a cheap ass as the Scottish. 😂
@@jeroenalexandervanarkel Nah. Just buy what you like. I'd suggest trying some Theirs Issard. You will never look back. Why do I say that? The steel they use is superior to what you find on Dovos. 6/8 half hollow TI, which you can get with basic scales for like $120, is a great place to start for most folks. They also have full hollow obviously. They have two kinds of grinds generally, one with and one without the stabilizer. The full hollow razors without the stabilizer are incredible. Great use of $300 right there. I just got another one last month, notched 7/8 with ebony scales blank mirror polished faces. Fantastic. But if you want to be able to shave under your nose normally you're gonna want likely 5/8 at the most.
The best performance of this stone is with the 1K Red Brick stone (Shingata Agamon) found at the same place the Green Brick is. The Red Brick cuts the use of this stone to a minimum, and I love to use them both.....
Guys... don't use a steel rod on hard Japanese knives! The steel rods are used to reorient a folded burr on softer steel...hard steel doesn't fold it breaks! The ceramic rods are fine because they actually abrade steel rather than simply straightening it.
The steel rods do abrade steel too. Hard to believe, I know. I used to believe what you said but you can wipe a steel rod and the towel will be gray from metal pieces. other articles online will show they abrade even Japanese steel
@@Sharp.Penguin00 Softer steel knives and steel rods will slightly abrade each other. Very hard Japanese steel knives will actually abrade the hone...which is where the grey residue from the towel is likely coming from. I'm not saying that zero knife steel is being removed...but the actual amount is quite negligible.
@@Sharp.Penguin00 Yeah... I'd like to read that. The question is... what's the definition of "working"? Steel rods are designed to straighten the fine rolled edge on soft steel knives. Hard steel knife edges don't roll with use...they micro-chip away. That's why the only way to sharpen hard steel is to aggressively abrade it. The reason I tell people not to use steel rods on hard steel is because it can chip them if used too aggressively. I've personally witnessed a guy chipping his beautiful white #1 gyuto in an attempt to "sharpen" it with a honing rod!
@@Master...deBater the study was linked in Reddit, I'll look for it. That's the thing though, if they actually abrade they don't actually straighten the edge they more or less remove it. Basically add a micro bevel
All depends on each person and their situation. Most folks honestly don't know how to maintain knives period, but most who do are somewhere between touch it up daily to let it go completely and bring it back once a year or whatever. personally, if someone wants 1 soaking type stone as a setup to do all their kitchen knives, I'd suggest a Cerax stone. You can get a 1k/6k combo off amazon for $40. That thing will easily cut high alloy steels that the green brick struggles with. If you push the 1k side, it can cut like a course splash and go, and the 6k side leaves like 2 to 3k finish like a shapton pro or chosera, but obviously cuts way faster than either. I've got too many stones and the 6k cerax is one of the gems that standout from the many dozens of stones I've used. The 700 cerax is a bad ass stone that moves some serious steel without feeling gritty and chunky like the 320 from that line which is a hard pass from me. One of those could be a one and done solution too or add the 6k, that's the best 2 stone soaker combo you can do imo. Honestly for most folks, I'd suggest a 500 (mesh) grit shapton glass or a 1k shapton pro for a one and done setup. Likely in that order. Anyone that already knows how to sharpen and wants one stone to do all their knives, I'm gonna say get a 500 glass. Most folks are going to want a splash and go. Shapton knows what it's doing when it suggest folks get the 500 glass, you can think you know better but go ahead and buy 5k worth of sharpening stones just to realize shapton had the right advise. My person favorites as the chosera, but I never suggest these to folks. I think it's a bad suggestion to make. They can discover it on their own once they evolve to that point. Every chosera stone is excellent. The 400 is one of the best stones of all time. Anything 400 to 2k chosera is amazing. The 3k I'd skip, shapton glass 4k is better in every way and cheaper too. I own both. The 5k and 10k are legit polishers/finishers and they're fine, but honestly super stone are the best finishers bar none. 12k super stone is one the great stones of all time, best finisher at any price, does things other stones just can't do, it's borderline voodoo. If someone want to learn how to use whetstone, I suggest stones like a 5k shapton pro or the 6k glass. These are the bottom end of their polisher, and they're both quite hard, almost glassy on the pro, removes very little steel, you can really grind away all day and learn how to sharpen quite well on these without destroying any knives. Once you can use this stone and come away not making the edge duller in the process, you're well on the way. If you can use it and end up sharper, then you can easily sharpen on any wherstone now.
Super blue is a step up from most of the obsolete high maintenance and meh performance carbon steels they use in traditional style Japanese knives. I've got like 30 Japanese knives worth nearly 10k. They're all over rated and over priced. There's maybe 3 out of the 30 I'd buy again. The amount of stagnation and just lack of innovation, boring same old stick to traditional ways, that I see coming out of Japan is echausting. They've got great marketing in the form of North America resellers tho. Hype this shit to the moon. Anyway super blue, It's ranges from okay to good, assuming you understand that it's going to need touch ups basically daily to keep it in check. Folks like all that stuff because it's stupidly easy to sharpen, which is true, but that's because it's also stupidly easy to dull. The good thing is Japanese knives have good geometry so they keep cutting well enough for most folks long after the edge is totally dull. And if you're talking about shirogami steel, that thing will be getting dull after cutting up two chicken breasts on a board. One breast if your board isn't wood. Super blue is a bit better, at 63+ rc it can do 80 to 120 cuts on most suitable wood boards before it's dulling, but even that is less than vg10 in terms of how it holds edge keeness.
Anyone that thinks they need 16 stones for anything is an idiot. Knives need 1 stone. Damaged knives need 2 at most. Even razors folks have a lot of silly ideas. You need 2 stones to do any razor. Sorry it's not a plane tool made of hard high alloy tool steel, it's a tiny little microscopic amount of easily abraded carbon steel at the edge. I dropped a TI on tile and chipped it. It took 10 minutes to get the chips out, and get it hair popping sharp. I used 2 stones. a 5k sp and a 12k ss. Most of the work was on the 5k sp cuz that's a finer stone to do the grinding on. Still, the amount of metal in question is minuscule. I find the amount of nonsense and mythology around sharpening and knives and stuff to be tedious. Razors are even worse honestly. It's like a religious cult a lot of it. For double edge tools like knives, it's not rocket science. There are 3 types of stones and you need 2 of them. 1. Course/grinding stones. 2. Sharpening stones. Maybe you could make a category for "fine sharpeners" aka "touch up stones" but again, superfluous. And 3. finishing/polishing stones. Which are nice but hardly a necessity for anything. 1 stone and 1 strop is all anyone needs to do knives. Razors, you need 2 stones and a few strops. Generally if your razor isn't damaged, you need 1 stone and a few strops to maintain it.
Gosh Jeff. We sure don't want to be idiots or have silly ideas. I would love to avoid this mythological nonsense you talk about. Will you please make a video and show us how it's done?
@@rkerlin Dr. Matt makes great videos about razor honing. My point is you dont NEED 16 or even 6 stones to do it. You need, on a basic level, at the most 2 stones. It doesn't hurt anything to use more but it's not at all needed, the end result will be the same. Folks seem to think polishing a large flat metal surface or a single bevel plane tool made of hardened tool steel is anywhere near the same thing as dealing with double bevel blades, much less a straight razor, which first of all are made from literally the most easily machined steels that exist and second the amount of it at the cutting edge of a razor is absolutely minuscule. The fact that anyone couldn't understand that and wants to bathe in anti emprical anti logical mythological nonsense is bewildering to me.
Learnt a lot from this video. Wonderful!
Wow, what an incredible hugh stone. You can give it to your grandchildren and they to their grandchildren to.
The Green Brick of Joy! I love this stone. Its butter.
Love the t-shirt 😊 Super video 👍
Greetings from Denmark
Great video! If Dr. Matt turns to knives. It will be useful to all knife fans! And it will give great prospects for the channel))))
the green brick is the best bang for buck in the game. it has so much range. you can use right from flatting, to some slurry , the slurry with a bit of water to just water. I have gotten almost mirror edges after stroping with gunny juice 3,1 and.5. great video brother.
Right on! Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks, great to see a DrMatt video!
Identical technique to mine witch i dont see too often.. Nicely done Matt🙏👍❤
Thanks George!!
Great vid Doc as usual.
Great link. It’s a bit overwhelming, but this helps with a good place to start.
lets go DrMatt knife sharpening :)
I have the 1k red brick Imanishi and this greenstone and for knives these two are a perfect one two punch
I thought the Bester/Imanishi “red brick” is a 220x. They make a big 1k?
@@gordie4059 the 220x imanishi brick i have is pink. Look on chef knives to go they usually have both.
Excellente!!! Turnkey solution! Well done good sir! Best
Have to pu the brick. Great Sharpening video
Very cool, Doc!
Thank you for this video. I have a stubborn Miyabi stainless knife that looks like a saw blade. Your methods here will help me greatly sharpen my knife!
Honestly you should likely just ask someone that knows what they're doing before you damage it even further. And then next time stick to more robust knives that you're less likely to damage in the way YOU use them. A knife that badly chipped out will need to be taken to a course stone, closer to 200 than 2000 grit to remove the damage at the edge first, THEN you can sharpen it on a 2000 grit or whatever sharpening stone you want. BUT if that damage is bad enough the knife might need to be thinned in order to maintain it's cutting ability, then again if you're so liekly to damage it maybe it's better to skip that bit and keep it thicker.
You’re welcome Eric and let us know how you make out. 😉
I’ve had my eye on this stone for awhile! My 3 stone setup works good for me (King Deluxe 300, Shapton Pro 1000, Shapton Pro 2000). Might make the switch on the 2K when the Shapton eventually wears out.
Hi mate still waiting to see you do a DE shave maybe you forgot?
Just started wet shaving. I've been a knife sharpener for a while. I own several stones and I just purchased a 9k, 12k and a coticule.What microscope do you use. I would like to see the progression of the razor from stone to stone. Thanks.
hello dr. matt. where can i get swept/ smiley straight razors without breaking the bank?
eBay would be your best bet.
@@drmatt357 okis. thanks
The burr comes easier on the second side because you've already ground the edge down to a thin apex. Much of the grinding on the first side is just getting down to the actual apex...especially after you've totally removed the edge like you did to get rid of the jagged steel. Had you looked directly down on the edge after that procedure you would've seen a large reflective flat that then had to be ground back to an apex...which takes some grind time.
Everytime i see one of your videos i hope it’s going to be on the concave subject 😅
I also started with knives when i worked as a chef and it drove me to SR.
I’ll get there some day. 😏
Hey Dr Matt! This video is just in time. What I am looking to take care of is my hunting skinner knife. Would the green brick yield the same result in my hunting knife like your professional knife? Also when do you anticipate getting the Atoma 400 back in stock? Thank you!
Yes, will definitely give a great edge to a hunting knife! Regarding the diamond plate, if you enter your name in the notification, you’ll receive an email when they’re in. It’s usually not too long of a wait.
👍🏻👍🏻
Dr Matt. Is there a difference between a 5/8 vs 6/8 in sharpness? I can imagine that the angle is shallower with an 6/8 or even 7/8. Does dat mean that although it will be more difficult to make corners etc but it will be sharper?
Good question J. The angle is a function of width of the blade and thickness of the spine. You’re correct in assuming the angle would be shallower on a wider blade like 6/8 compared to 5/8 but IF AND ONLY IF the spine thickness is the same. Usually manufacturers will start with a thicker stock for a wider blade if they’re up on their geometry. 😁
I have a video on just this subject where I get more in depth on it. It’s called bevel angle something or another.
@@drmatt357 as a tech geek I love your videos. And going to watch more of them. On topic : will there be a difference in sharpness then with a Dovo best quality 5/8( I own) vs 6/8th. And what would be the benefit of a far more expensive Dovo 300 euros versions. Keep in mind that i am Dutch so a cheap ass as the Scottish. 😂
@@jeroenalexandervanarkel Nah. Just buy what you like. I'd suggest trying some Theirs Issard. You will never look back. Why do I say that? The steel they use is superior to what you find on Dovos. 6/8 half hollow TI, which you can get with basic scales for like $120, is a great place to start for most folks. They also have full hollow obviously. They have two kinds of grinds generally, one with and one without the stabilizer. The full hollow razors without the stabilizer are incredible. Great use of $300 right there. I just got another one last month, notched 7/8 with ebony scales blank mirror polished faces. Fantastic. But if you want to be able to shave under your nose normally you're gonna want likely 5/8 at the most.
The best performance of this stone is with the 1K Red Brick stone (Shingata Agamon) found at the same place the Green Brick is. The Red Brick cuts the use of this stone to a minimum, and I love to use them both.....
AH You Can Do Magic.
No love for the heel?
Guys... don't use a steel rod on hard Japanese knives! The steel rods are used to reorient a folded burr on softer steel...hard steel doesn't fold it breaks! The ceramic rods are fine because they actually abrade steel rather than simply straightening it.
The steel rods do abrade steel too. Hard to believe, I know. I used to believe what you said but you can wipe a steel rod and the towel will be gray from metal pieces. other articles online will show they abrade even Japanese steel
@@Sharp.Penguin00 Softer steel knives and steel rods will slightly abrade each other. Very hard Japanese steel knives will actually abrade the hone...which is where the grey residue from the towel is likely coming from. I'm not saying that zero knife steel is being removed...but the actual amount is quite negligible.
@@Master...deBater I thought so too. Maybe I can find it again but there was a study on hard Japanese steels and the steel rods still worked
@@Sharp.Penguin00 Yeah... I'd like to read that. The question is... what's the definition of "working"? Steel rods are designed to straighten the fine rolled edge on soft steel knives. Hard steel knife edges don't roll with use...they micro-chip away. That's why the only way to sharpen hard steel is to aggressively abrade it. The reason I tell people not to use steel rods on hard steel is because it can chip them if used too aggressively. I've personally witnessed a guy chipping his beautiful white #1 gyuto in an attempt to "sharpen" it with a honing rod!
@@Master...deBater the study was linked in Reddit, I'll look for it.
That's the thing though, if they actually abrade they don't actually straighten the edge they more or less remove it. Basically add a micro bevel
All depends on each person and their situation. Most folks honestly don't know how to maintain knives period, but most who do are somewhere between touch it up daily to let it go completely and bring it back once a year or whatever.
personally, if someone wants 1 soaking type stone as a setup to do all their kitchen knives, I'd suggest a Cerax stone. You can get a 1k/6k combo off amazon for $40. That thing will easily cut high alloy steels that the green brick struggles with. If you push the 1k side, it can cut like a course splash and go, and the 6k side leaves like 2 to 3k finish like a shapton pro or chosera, but obviously cuts way faster than either. I've got too many stones and the 6k cerax is one of the gems that standout from the many dozens of stones I've used. The 700 cerax is a bad ass stone that moves some serious steel without feeling gritty and chunky like the 320 from that line which is a hard pass from me. One of those could be a one and done solution too or add the 6k, that's the best 2 stone soaker combo you can do imo.
Honestly for most folks, I'd suggest a 500 (mesh) grit shapton glass or a 1k shapton pro for a one and done setup. Likely in that order. Anyone that already knows how to sharpen and wants one stone to do all their knives, I'm gonna say get a 500 glass. Most folks are going to want a splash and go. Shapton knows what it's doing when it suggest folks get the 500 glass, you can think you know better but go ahead and buy 5k worth of sharpening stones just to realize shapton had the right advise. My person favorites as the chosera, but I never suggest these to folks. I think it's a bad suggestion to make. They can discover it on their own once they evolve to that point. Every chosera stone is excellent. The 400 is one of the best stones of all time. Anything 400 to 2k chosera is amazing. The 3k I'd skip, shapton glass 4k is better in every way and cheaper too. I own both. The 5k and 10k are legit polishers/finishers and they're fine, but honestly super stone are the best finishers bar none. 12k super stone is one the great stones of all time, best finisher at any price, does things other stones just can't do, it's borderline voodoo.
If someone want to learn how to use whetstone, I suggest stones like a 5k shapton pro or the 6k glass. These are the bottom end of their polisher, and they're both quite hard, almost glassy on the pro, removes very little steel, you can really grind away all day and learn how to sharpen quite well on these without destroying any knives. Once you can use this stone and come away not making the edge duller in the process, you're well on the way. If you can use it and end up sharper, then you can easily sharpen on any wherstone now.
Super blue is a step up from most of the obsolete high maintenance and meh performance carbon steels they use in traditional style Japanese knives. I've got like 30 Japanese knives worth nearly 10k. They're all over rated and over priced. There's maybe 3 out of the 30 I'd buy again. The amount of stagnation and just lack of innovation, boring same old stick to traditional ways, that I see coming out of Japan is echausting. They've got great marketing in the form of North America resellers tho. Hype this shit to the moon. Anyway super blue, It's ranges from okay to good, assuming you understand that it's going to need touch ups basically daily to keep it in check. Folks like all that stuff because it's stupidly easy to sharpen, which is true, but that's because it's also stupidly easy to dull. The good thing is Japanese knives have good geometry so they keep cutting well enough for most folks long after the edge is totally dull. And if you're talking about shirogami steel, that thing will be getting dull after cutting up two chicken breasts on a board. One breast if your board isn't wood. Super blue is a bit better, at 63+ rc it can do 80 to 120 cuts on most suitable wood boards before it's dulling, but even that is less than vg10 in terms of how it holds edge keeness.
Amazing Jeff. I keep having the same recurring dream.
Anyone that thinks they need 16 stones for anything is an idiot. Knives need 1 stone. Damaged knives need 2 at most. Even razors folks have a lot of silly ideas. You need 2 stones to do any razor. Sorry it's not a plane tool made of hard high alloy tool steel, it's a tiny little microscopic amount of easily abraded carbon steel at the edge. I dropped a TI on tile and chipped it. It took 10 minutes to get the chips out, and get it hair popping sharp. I used 2 stones. a 5k sp and a 12k ss. Most of the work was on the 5k sp cuz that's a finer stone to do the grinding on. Still, the amount of metal in question is minuscule. I find the amount of nonsense and mythology around sharpening and knives and stuff to be tedious. Razors are even worse honestly. It's like a religious cult a lot of it. For double edge tools like knives, it's not rocket science. There are 3 types of stones and you need 2 of them. 1. Course/grinding stones. 2. Sharpening stones. Maybe you could make a category for "fine sharpeners" aka "touch up stones" but again, superfluous. And 3. finishing/polishing stones. Which are nice but hardly a necessity for anything. 1 stone and 1 strop is all anyone needs to do knives. Razors, you need 2 stones and a few strops. Generally if your razor isn't damaged, you need 1 stone and a few strops to maintain it.
Gosh Jeff. We sure don't want to be idiots or have silly ideas. I would love to avoid this mythological nonsense you talk about. Will you please make a video and show us how it's done?
@@rkerlin Dr. Matt makes great videos about razor honing. My point is you dont NEED 16 or even 6 stones to do it. You need, on a basic level, at the most 2 stones. It doesn't hurt anything to use more but it's not at all needed, the end result will be the same. Folks seem to think polishing a large flat metal surface or a single bevel plane tool made of hardened tool steel is anywhere near the same thing as dealing with double bevel blades, much less a straight razor, which first of all are made from literally the most easily machined steels that exist and second the amount of it at the cutting edge of a razor is absolutely minuscule. The fact that anyone couldn't understand that and wants to bathe in anti emprical anti logical mythological nonsense is bewildering to me.