Al4556XP StandardBrand Blue Streak some say are the best. I once was stuck at the side of the road in our desert country up here and the rubbing block was gone in my old 66 chev biscayne, lucky I took auto shop in school, so had an old set of integral point and condensor set from a newer gm and was able to modify it to make it run, then found out shaft of distributor was jumping up and going around in a very large circle, so made it home and replaced distributor myself again with parts from another old car and off she went for many years after. Really appreciate the video, stirred up some great memories growing up of fixing breakdowns on the hwy on holidays and while out in the bush.
Back in 1970 and '71 I drove a delivery truck (Speedy messenger service) around San Francisco. I was in the south east part of the bay area in the fast lane of one of the busiest freeways in the bay area when the truck just died. Just like someone had reached over and turned off the ignition key. I was lucky to make my way to the slow lane and onto an off ramp. Unfortunately, I was in a sparsely populated industrial area and had to walk a good mile and a half to find a phone. We had a good mechanic, who was on vacation, but showed up prepared. More or less. Opened the distributer cap and the points were in two pieces. He brought a new set with him, but no feeler gauge. He adjusted them by eyeball, and it ran better than it had for a long time. I don't miss having to adjust points all the time. Something to be said about todays modern electronics and getting old and lazy.
But look at it this way, the repair was simple and cheap. Now if it had been an electronic ignition the great mystery begins. It could have been any one of a number of expensive modules, and unless one is actually on fire impossible to diagnosis. So you end up switching out on after another with new, hopefully not defective ones. Then you find out they made many slightly different models, often switching in mid year, so you need to find you serial number. Only to then hear that you unfortunately have the hard to get one that costs double the normal price, and has to be ordered in, and will take two days to get here because you are broken down in that geographical parts anomaly of two days from everywhere. Three days, and $800 dollars you may be back on the road, but never quite sure if the problem was really fixed, or if that part failing was caused by something bigger just waiting to fail catastrophically just around the corner. Been there, much prefer a $10 set of points, that I can fix in 5 minutes with a Swiss Army Knife.
There is certainly something to be said about the older vehicles. My first car was a 1948 Plymouth with suicide doors that I inherited from an uncle when I was 16 or 17. 4 cylinder flat head. Talk about simple easy to work on. Got in a huge fight with my father and I went and stayed with a friend for a few weeks. He switched some spark plug wires on me. Ran like crap and I had no clue how to fix it. Which wires? Only 4 cylinders, but an awful lot of combinations for switching them. I’ve never had a problem with modern electronic ignitions. Turn the key and go every time, but I know people who have had problems. Only thing a technician can do is plug your vehicle into a computer and pray the computer can solve it. Problem is, that doesn’t always work. My other half finally had to sell a car she had for a long time cause the computer could never figure out what was wrong with it. If I had a rig like that, it would get traded off PDQ.
The '73 LeMans started running really rough, so I checked inside the distributor. One side of the point set was gone. No contact on that side whatsoever, just a hole. It was still running though. Thinking of picking up a points distributor for the '77 K5. EMP never sleeps. And I hate walking.
Do you run any lead additive in your gas?The only reason I ask is that I've seen many flathead engines ruined by modern, unleaded gasoline...typical exhaust valve seat failure.Love the Chick Magnet.Good luck.
I run the gas we can get for small engines and classic vehicles, no alcohol. These 230 cubic inch flatheads are an industrial motor, and will run on about anything. Long stroke for low end power, but low compression so they don't require high octane.
+logcabinlooms Non-Ox is good for older systems as the alcohol can melt plastics and floats in some older engines. Hardened valve seats were adopted in the 1970's to protect valve seats from getting hammered out with unleaded gas. Lead fuel additive is sold in bottles and is usually used with the older cars with non-hardened valve seats. I like your vids, you cover a good range of topics!
I retired from NAPA. If you have a good number on the part there is a good chance they can cross it. Their supplier is Echlin. They can call their tech service to help. Also the store will have the Echlin illustrated guide book for parts. Word of warning is not all counter people are created equal. If the parts person helping you can not find your part and they did not use the guides listed above they do not have experience in this area. Sometimes they are reluctant to admit this to the customer. Then ask if someone else can help. I use to specialize in this and the other counter people would send the customer over to me. Sure made the job more interesting. Great feeling when you found the part. One time a guy came in said he was restoring this old boat from the twenties. Wanted tune up parts. I spent a half hour digging in the books and found the stuff he wanted. It was a big $22. He had told me no other place could find this stuff. Then he said he would think about it. Really!
what causes points to pit and fail is the condencer is wrong value should be 27 mfd to match the coil. remember i=e/r i is the current e is the voltage r is the resistance r has to equal zero for max spark 3/4 inch jump the reactance of the coil has equal the reluctance of the condenser to cancel one another for zero res.
the condenser causes the points to pit (wrong value) i had an older shop look up cross ref for me napa refused he found 2 cond .to cross ref, i bought both because of time he spent with me --installed new condenser put screw driver in plug wire held it close to eng spark was jumping 3/4 inch i was elated
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Al4556XP StandardBrand Blue Streak some say are the best.
I once was stuck at the side of the road in our desert country up here and the rubbing block was gone in my old 66 chev biscayne, lucky I took auto shop in school, so had an old set of integral point and condensor set from a newer gm and was able to modify it to make it run, then found out shaft of distributor was jumping up and going around in a very large circle, so made it home and replaced distributor myself again with parts from another old car and off she went for many years after.
Really appreciate the video, stirred up some great memories growing up of fixing breakdowns on the hwy on holidays and while out in the bush.
Real cool. Just bought a 53 m37... Been sitting in a barn for 20 years. We will be talking!
Back in 1970 and '71 I drove a delivery truck (Speedy messenger service) around San Francisco. I was in the south east part of the bay area in the fast lane of one of the busiest freeways in the bay area when the truck just died. Just like someone had reached over and turned off the ignition key. I was lucky to make my way to the slow lane and onto an off ramp. Unfortunately, I was in a sparsely populated industrial area and had to walk a good mile and a half to find a phone. We had a good mechanic, who was on vacation, but showed up prepared. More or less. Opened the distributer cap and the points were in two pieces. He brought a new set with him, but no feeler gauge. He adjusted them by eyeball, and it ran better than it had for a long time. I don't miss having to adjust points all the time. Something to be said about todays modern electronics and getting old and lazy.
But look at it this way, the repair was simple and cheap. Now if it had been an electronic ignition the great mystery begins. It could have been any one of a number of expensive modules, and unless one is actually on fire impossible to diagnosis. So you end up switching out on after another with new, hopefully not defective ones. Then you find out they made many slightly different models, often switching in mid year, so you need to find you serial number. Only to then hear that you unfortunately have the hard to get one that costs double the normal price, and has to be ordered in, and will take two days to get here because you are broken down in that geographical parts anomaly of two days from everywhere. Three days, and $800 dollars you may be back on the road, but never quite sure if the problem was really fixed, or if that part failing was caused by something bigger just waiting to fail catastrophically just around the corner. Been there, much prefer a $10 set of points, that I can fix in 5 minutes with a Swiss Army Knife.
There is certainly something to be said about the older vehicles. My first car was a 1948 Plymouth with suicide doors that I inherited from an uncle when I was 16 or 17. 4 cylinder flat head. Talk about simple easy to work on. Got in a huge fight with my father and I went and stayed with a friend for a few weeks. He switched some spark plug wires on me. Ran like crap and I had no clue how to fix it. Which wires? Only 4 cylinders, but an awful lot of combinations for switching them. I’ve never had a problem with modern electronic ignitions. Turn the key and go every time, but I know people who have had problems. Only thing a technician can do is plug your vehicle into a computer and pray the computer can solve it. Problem is, that doesn’t always work. My other half finally had to sell a car she had for a long time cause the computer could never figure out what was wrong with it. If I had a rig like that, it would get traded off PDQ.
The '73 LeMans started running really rough, so I checked inside the distributor. One side of the point set was gone. No contact on that side whatsoever, just a hole. It was still running though. Thinking of picking up a points distributor for the '77 K5. EMP never sleeps. And I hate walking.
I believe if you look part numbers are Echlin ECH CS725A or the ones I mentioned earlier Al4556XP StandardBrand Blue Streak
Points left me and my H.D stranded for 6 hours on the side of the highway. A frickin $2 dollar part at the time.
Do you run any lead additive in your gas?The only reason I ask is that I've seen many flathead engines ruined by modern, unleaded gasoline...typical exhaust valve seat failure.Love the Chick Magnet.Good luck.
+irritablearchitect Or "tractor gas" like they ran in the old B's and 70 John Deere?
I run the gas we can get for small engines and classic vehicles, no alcohol. These 230 cubic inch flatheads are an industrial motor, and will run on about anything. Long stroke for low end power, but low compression so they don't require high octane.
+logcabinlooms Non-Ox is good for older systems as the alcohol can melt plastics and floats in some older engines. Hardened valve seats were adopted in the 1970's to protect valve seats from getting hammered out with unleaded gas. Lead fuel additive is sold in bottles and is usually used with the older cars with non-hardened valve seats. I like your vids, you cover a good range of topics!
I always added some two stroke oil to my gas, always ran better on that than straight gas.
I retired from NAPA. If you have a good number on the part there is a good chance they can cross it. Their supplier is Echlin. They can call their tech service to help. Also the store will have the Echlin illustrated guide book for parts. Word of warning is not all counter people are created equal. If the parts person helping you can not find your part and they did not use the guides listed above they do not have experience in this area. Sometimes they are reluctant to admit this to the customer. Then ask if someone else can help. I use to specialize in this and the other counter people would send the customer over to me. Sure made the job more interesting. Great feeling when you found the part. One time a guy came in said he was restoring this old boat from the twenties. Wanted tune up parts. I spent a half hour digging in the books and found the stuff he wanted. It was a big $22. He had told me no other place could find this stuff. Then he said he would think about it. Really!
what causes points to pit and fail is the condencer is wrong value should be 27 mfd to match the coil. remember i=e/r i is the current e is the voltage r is the resistance r has to equal zero for max spark 3/4 inch jump the reactance of the coil has equal the reluctance of the condenser to cancel one another for zero res.
the condenser causes the points to pit (wrong value) i had an older shop look up cross ref for me napa refused he found 2 cond .to cross ref, i bought both because of time he spent with me --installed new condenser put screw driver in plug wire held it close to eng spark was jumping 3/4 inch i was elated
You made some good points... thanks for the video!
nice fix
Buy a extra set when you are at NAPA!
i have an m37 1952
Man things an't made like they used to be . if n a man knew what he know now he'd buy extra back up parts when we got the things ! me included