Man that looks nice,great job,Blue loctite is the best thing to use on those little bolts, that procedure where EATON flattened them its called "staking", its done on motorcycle carb butterflies and basically anything that has a butterfly, throttle bodies etc , once you pull them out, the magic is gone,its hard for the average person to stake a bolt,its probably done with a special tool. I have rebuilt a few of these,i usually pull the rotors out and power wash them lightly to take all that crud off and dry them immediately, then lightly coat them with some oil , they always look almost new, matter of fact i pulled one off yesterday of a 99 Park avenue,car looked like it had really low miles,supercharger gasket came off in one piece, couldn't believe it but i think it had been serviced at some point cause the bolts had no loctite on them.
8:50 blue is removable at room temp. red needs to be heated alot. could easily heat it up to remove it with red. othwerwise blue will withstand vibration but not heat and vibration.
I can't say for sure in concrete terms how much flow or less heat results from this mod. I wish I could do back to back dyno test on same dyno, same day, same operator and temps to find out. It for sure is not a HUGE gain but when you are getting close to maxing out the little M-90 every little bit helps!
I thought if that teflon was damaged flakeing on the fins the supercharger would not work correctly because it's not being efficient in moving the air now ? Is that correct?
The black stuff I took off was carbon. The Teflon has a little damage, the supercharger still getting 13 lb of boost. If it's lost some efficiency, it hasn't lost much.
They're not the same product. Anaerobic sealant only hardens between two metals. RTV will squish out and harden inside the component leaving a glob of rubber to potentially break off and clog something. You should use whatever sealant is called for for the job.
So I did something really stupid and got carburetor cleaner on the rotor packs and now the coatings falling off everywhere what do you suggest? Also, I seem to have alot of scratches inside the case that you can barely feel with your finger nail. Thank you!
Small scratches are fairly normal from what I have seen. If the coating is all coming off that is going to lower you boost - but I am not sure by how much...
Rustoleum enamel. Used it for years and years on engine parts with no issues except, like any rattle can paint, if you get a bunch of gas on it it will lift. Only thing that will stand up to fuel is powder coat or two part catalyzed paint.
It's hard to say, I put a ton of hours into it myself.. I received some old beat up fiero's for free from my dad over a decade ago and put them together into one. Most expensive part was having the automatic transmission rebuilt for about $1,000 from a shop I do a lot of work with. Other than that, the camshafts $350, a couple hundred bucks for injectors.
Thank you! I totally agree, but I'd have less comebacks than others. One pissed off customer tells a lot of people. I would have to specialize, so many of these jobs that I do I think to myself when it's all over I could do it again right now and half the time.
I would be as well if I had to take things in. The only thing I don't go into is transmissions for the sake of rebuilding. Too many ways to make a mistake if you don't specialize in them and too much work to take it back apart. My relationship with my transmission guy is over 20 years old and mutual trust. f/y/i, I do side jobs from time to time - depending on the job and how busy I am with other commitments at the moment.
@@Toys4Life I'd be hesitant now too, plus it takes many special tools. When I first got out of college, I rebuilt a good number. I recall when I moved to Vegas and started in a Pontiac/GMC shop, all the techs specialized in one or two things. I was 22 and not long after I started, I rebuilt a Firebird transmission. I later found out they techs were taking bets on if it would ever move again. LOL All these years later I understand specializing, but I would've starved being new in the shop. I'm so far removed from working on cars, I doubt I'd try. I put carbon fiber synchros in a Tko 600 about a decade ago in my 69 camaro. That was a pretty easy deal. These days I'll replace an alternator or do a few performance mods. I've lost the desire to do anything complex. I can see some type of father son project in the future.
Shouldn't the rotors been sent somewhere to re do the Teflon because of the chip? Couldn't that damage the internals if that drops in... Like the videos subscribing
I think you are likely correct. I researched it the best I could and got to about 95% certain that is correct - but in the end paid up because if this is incorrect, the penalty it too much to pay (:-). Now if you have a link - or something that shows this is EATON approved or GM approved spec for eaton superchargers to get me to 100% - I would be most appreciateive!
@Toys4Life Part of my maintenance schedule for the supercharger every couple of years, I removed the supercharger, dismantled it, and grease those bearings. My bearings are original from 99 when I purchased the car .I only use blue grease . My son drives the car . As a mechanic , 45 years it will be maintained as long as I am able .
Hey you mind if I get a link or name for that grease? Just tore mine apart today and didn't know I need special grease. Here I was thinking I could use my waterproof grease on everything 😅
Man that looks nice,great job,Blue loctite is the best thing to use on those little bolts, that procedure where EATON flattened them its called "staking", its done on motorcycle carb butterflies and basically anything that has a butterfly, throttle bodies etc , once you pull them out, the magic is gone,its hard for the average person to stake a bolt,its probably done with a special tool.
I have rebuilt a few of these,i usually pull the rotors out and power wash them lightly to take all that crud off and dry them immediately, then lightly coat them with some oil , they always look almost new, matter of fact i pulled one off yesterday of a 99 Park avenue,car looked like it had really low miles,supercharger gasket came off in one piece, couldn't believe it but i think it had been serviced at some point cause the bolts had no loctite on them.
Nice detailed video 👍🏼
Thank you!
8:50 blue is removable at room temp. red needs to be heated alot. could easily heat it up to remove it with red. othwerwise blue will withstand vibration but not heat and vibration.
My 3800 purrs like a kitten - no vibration to knock it loose...lol. Time will tell! Thanks for the comment!
@@Toys4Life i really hope you dont believe that... they vibrate. take out your motor mount if you dont believe me.
Sir, I 100% believe you. All engines vibrate, some just more than others!
@@Toys4Life anywho, you asked people to weigh in in the comments. so I did. and I use them both, alot.
Sir, I absolutely appreciate your comment, sorry if I gave you any impression otherwise!
That's sick!
Thank you sir!
What is the gain from such a porting? Do the two corners really add much boost?
I can't say for sure in concrete terms how much flow or less heat results from this mod. I wish I could do back to back dyno test on same dyno, same day, same operator and temps to find out. It for sure is not a HUGE gain but when you are getting close to maxing out the little M-90 every little bit helps!
@@Toys4Life well, I have it set to 1 uz fe . I think I will win about 10 horses. Considering that it's already about 300. Thanks!
Wat was the red sealant u used on the snout ( everything I hve tried has never sealed for me n it's stuffed every charger I hve had)?
Anaerobic sealer.
I thought if that teflon was damaged flakeing on the fins the supercharger would not work correctly because it's not being efficient in moving the air now ? Is that correct?
The black stuff I took off was carbon. The Teflon has a little damage, the supercharger still getting 13 lb of boost. If it's lost some efficiency, it hasn't lost much.
So the anaerobic sealant is just red loctite?
No actually it's a much bigger tube called anaerobic sealant. I think you'd go broke using Red loctite not to mention it might stick too hard.
@@Toys4Life I also heard grey rtv would work?
They're not the same product. Anaerobic sealant only hardens between two metals. RTV will squish out and harden inside the component leaving a glob of rubber to potentially break off and clog something. You should use whatever sealant is called for for the job.
Do not use any silicone based sealant. It can fall off inside the snout and damage the bearings@@pissedoffpistongarage
So I did something really stupid and got carburetor cleaner on the rotor packs and now the coatings falling off everywhere what do you suggest? Also, I seem to have alot of scratches inside the case that you can barely feel with your finger nail. Thank you!
Small scratches are fairly normal from what I have seen. If the coating is all coming off that is going to lower you boost - but I am not sure by how much...
What finish is on the blower case?
Rustoleum enamel. Used it for years and years on engine parts with no issues except, like any rattle can paint, if you get a bunch of gas on it it will lift. Only thing that will stand up to fuel is powder coat or two part catalyzed paint.
Does this blower rotate clockwise? Or counter clockwise?
Clockwise, looking at it from the front I believe.
i just picked up a 1985 fiero se i was wondering how much did your entire build cost?
It's hard to say, I put a ton of hours into it myself.. I received some old beat up fiero's for free from my dad over a decade ago and put them together into one. Most expensive part was having the automatic transmission rebuilt for about $1,000 from a shop I do a lot of work with. Other than that, the camshafts $350, a couple hundred bucks for injectors.
Meticulous work as always. You’d go broke as a working tech. That’s a good thing. 😀
Thank you! I totally agree, but I'd have less comebacks than others. One pissed off customer tells a lot of people. I would have to specialize, so many of these jobs that I do I think to myself when it's all over I could do it again right now and half the time.
@@Toys4Life There will always be clients that are willing to pay for great work. I'm one of them.
I would be as well if I had to take things in. The only thing I don't go into is transmissions for the sake of rebuilding. Too many ways to make a mistake if you don't specialize in them and too much work to take it back apart. My relationship with my transmission guy is over 20 years old and mutual trust. f/y/i, I do side jobs from time to time - depending on the job and how busy I am with other commitments at the moment.
@@Toys4Life I'd be hesitant now too, plus it takes many special tools. When I first got out of college, I rebuilt a good number. I recall when I moved to Vegas and started in a Pontiac/GMC shop, all the techs specialized in one or two things. I was 22 and not long after I started, I rebuilt a Firebird transmission. I later found out they techs were taking bets on if it would ever move again. LOL All these years later I understand specializing, but I would've starved being new in the shop. I'm so far removed from working on cars, I doubt I'd try. I put carbon fiber synchros in a Tko 600 about a decade ago in my 69 camaro. That was a pretty easy deal. These days I'll replace an alternator or do a few performance mods. I've lost the desire to do anything complex. I can see some type of father son project in the future.
Shouldn't the rotors been sent somewhere to re do the Teflon because of the chip? Couldn't that damage the internals if that drops in... Like the videos subscribing
Thank you! I'm not concerned, and I'm pretty sure it will be fine, it has the past year of pretty serious use.
That coating is made to be "digested" in case something happens,a chip here and there is OK,you just dont want a whole bunch in your engine.
You need blue SYTHENTIC high temp grease you do not need any special grease .
I think you are likely correct. I researched it the best I could and got to about 95% certain that is correct - but in the end paid up because if this is incorrect, the penalty it too much to pay (:-). Now if you have a link - or something that shows this is EATON approved or GM approved spec for eaton superchargers to get me to 100% - I would be most appreciateive!
@Toys4Life Part of my maintenance schedule for the supercharger every couple of years, I removed the supercharger, dismantled it, and grease those bearings. My bearings are original from 99 when I purchased the car .I only use blue grease . My son drives the car . As a mechanic , 45 years it will be maintained as long as I am able .
Hey you mind if I get a link or name for that grease? Just tore mine apart today and didn't know I need special grease. Here I was thinking I could use my waterproof grease on everything 😅
Intense racing. Sometimes ZZ performance has it too.
Hey I am starting to gather parts for my swap where do u recommend finding a good 3800? And do u have any social media where I could follow thanks !!
Sweet! I just do TH-cam and my regular job. Subscribe and click the bell for notifications. Thanks for the interest!