K1 Max manual bed levelling mod.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2024
- Cutting down the silicone pad to 9mm makes the screw more secure.
12mm cut down to 9mm, or 9mm if you can find them silicone spacer for 3d printers.
304 A2-70 Stainless Steel Hexagon Hex Socket Head Flat Countersunk Bolt Screw M4 x 25mm
Manual Tighten Nut Black White Thumb Clamping Knob Handle Plum Thread Hand Mechanical Star Nuts M4 25mm head size important!
The clear filament tube
Mellow High Transparency ID3mm OD4mm PTFE Tube Teflonto MMU2.0 For prusa i3 mk3 Ender-3 Mk8 Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament - เกม
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs DAY 3 // FNC vs FUT | EDG vs PRX](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pw2T5v0ogDI/mqdefault.jpg)
Cutting down the silicone pad to 9mm makes the screw more secure.
12mm tall cut down to 9mm tall, or 9mm tall if you can find them, silicone spacer for 3d printers. I used ender 3 ones they are 16mm thick with a 4mm hole.
304 A2-70 Stainless Steel Hexagon Hex Socket Head Flat Countersunk Bolt Screw M4 x 25mm
Manual Tighten Nut Black Thumb Clamping Knob Handle Plum Thread Hand Mechanical Star Nuts M4 25mm head size important!
The clear filament tube
Mellow High Transparency ID3mm OD4mm PTFE Tube Teflonto MMU2.0 For prusa i3 mk3 Ender-3 Mk8 Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament
Somebody made a jog for cutting the silicone. I haven’t tried it but saw it the other day if it helps.
www.printables.com/model/779602-jig-for-k1-max-silicon-bed-plate-column
Please don’t ask where to buy the parts from. I don’t get involved with recommending sellers. I want to remain sponsor free, I even hate that some of my videos have ads on them.
The titles of each parts are taken from the description for the items I bought off Aliexpress, just to make it easier for searching and getting a better idea of what your looking for.
Hey. Thanks for the video. Where did you find the STL for that swinging tube arm?
Have a look a couple comments below
I had to remove the Z belt & turn the Z screws to level the bed. The bed itself is not flat & this is accentuated when using the tin plate supplied with the printer. Use a glass plate to flatten it to an acceptable level. I also had to adjust the length of the X & Y belts to get the correct tension. My second & more than likely last Creality printer.
I have ordered a glass plate for my one. It’s on preorder won’t get it till end of this month.
Why do we miss the obvious Mount a dial indicator at the print head run the plate up Loosen the set screws on the ball screw zero three points and tighten screws Check 4 corners Rinse and repeat When happy with dial readings and locked down Run calibration and check map Should be good to go
Can you link to the 3D print file for the arm holding your filament tube? Thanks for the vid. Adding my silicone spacers today
www.printables.com/model/665955-creality-k1-max-riser-improved-filament-path
You need to print it with the riser and use bearings for it to pivot. I also used heat inserts to make it secure.
This helps with the drag chain drooping
www.printables.com/model/746321-creality-k1-max-chain-bar
This also helps I have both installed
www.printables.com/model/717063-creality-k1-max-cable-chain-strain-relief-simple
Use lock nuts rather than those wheels. It might be a bit more difficult to turn while tuning, but once done they'll remain as set, whereas the wheels will move by themselves over time.
It’s not a bed slinger really isn’t a problem.
Legend !
You can use springs, instead of the spacers.
You sure can. But I find the screws scratch the bottom of the plate, especially when it’s got silicone coating on it.
I have a k1 max since few days. I only use the software included :/ What is this software ?
It’s called klipper.
See this user for a easy guide to install. I rooted my machine a few months ago but wasn’t shown clearly about it. This user made it clear for me recently.
If you choose to I would miss step 16 out it’s a pain and will annoy you.
th-cam.com/video/E_SlgzL4bIo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tO_ADPSUnBHNCWE6
Did you ever figure out why your bed height is shown as above zero still? I thought that the bed height was relative to the average of the entire bed and that was considered zero.
Even without the wheels it was off if you notice during the video. I thought it could be to do with the fact that the stock spacers are 8.3mm, but after cutting the 12mm down to 9mm it didn’t change so confused. Maybe something to do with the strain gauges? To be honest I’ve had some really nice results it’s printed about 25 hours with the wheels. Over five prints checking it once and the wheels lost only 0.02 each corner on average. I’ve noticed the bed isn’t going up and down while printing it barley moves at all now. Unlike the bed sliggers it hasn’t need much attention. It’s a win for me and I’ll just take it.
hi you cant share the macro for bed knob turn thanks ???
I rooted using the latest helper script from Guilouz. It had all the stuff needed in the script including the screw calibration. I am not very good with software to be honest.
This user has a good guide to installing the latest rooted klipper with the feature included.
th-cam.com/video/E_SlgzL4bIo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iOWa-Rkb0eC3pdMD
Where can I get the 9mm silicone cut off tool
I think I saw one on printables the other day. The one I made I no longer have the file.
@theaftermathshow6595 Keep up the videos buddy 👍🏽
@@rotty281175 Cheers just giving back to the community.
www.printables.com/model/779602-jig-for-k1-max-silicon-bed-plate-column
Any help?
How do you look at the bed mesh tho!!!!! I cant find it anywhere!!!!!!
Heightmap left hand side of Mainsail.
@@theaftermathshow6595 doesn't show that for me on creality 5.0
@@Meowinater3000 You need root
@theaftermathshow6595 thats ridiculous, something that cost this much to be this jank is honestly a joke
@@Meowinater3000 You can cry or do something about it rather then moaning like a child.
Will this work on a K1?
Can’t see why not, I don’t own a k1
This won't work on a K1, the bed screws aren't visible underneath the print surface unless you cut into it.
where you see this page
You need to Root your machine.
How can ı root
@@omertufanersoy7341 th-cam.com/video/E_SlgzL4bIo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2XVZav25z-cZnfJ8
I missed step 16 too much trouble.
You buy a printer that only think thaty does good is outo level and then u need to print manual level things just go with bambu lab instead
The mod cost £10 a Bambu lab is like three times the price I paid for my k1 Max. Plus they don’t have a model that can print large sizes like the K1 Max. If you don’t like creality K1 why watch the video?
@@theaftermathshow6595 here bambu lab is 700€ and creality k1 max is more expensive
@@marine1718 I got my K1 max for about €750. At the time the x1 was about €1400 without ams. Sorry so almost double the price not three times. But I wanted a big build space too and Bambu are small build spaces.
@@theaftermathshow6595 p1s is enough
Hey I couldn't look anything up online is it okay if I let my K1 Max cool down for like 20-30 minutes and then turn it off like turn off the off switch and not use it for the rest of the night if that's okay or do I have to leave it on? Meaning like leave it on not using it just let the screen turn off and turn off the light
I don’t understand what your asking? Can you switch your printer off after it’s cooled down?
@theaftermathshow6595 yes can I switch it off from the switch on the back after it cools down like turn it off for the night if I'm not using it is that ok?
@@85crazytechlaz Of course if your not using it you switch it off. I use a smart plug set a timer longer then print and cool down time. Also I can switch it on and off without going to the machine.
@theaftermathshow6595 yeah I have one of those switch timers as well so I'm going to use it thank you very much for the reply 👍
I did the same 5 days after bought it. For me creality is tragic .... suport is dramaticly bed !!
Making them noob friendly is really messing with the quality.
@@theaftermathshow6595Unfortunately if you have to do this to get a level bed then it's the exact opposite of "noob" friendly. My V3KE (Klipper)could benefit from this manual screw adjustment but I only have one printer and I don't really want to mod it right now as it prints the first layer good enough for my size prints. If I print larger then it might become an issue. The problems with Creality is they have no customer service and they have questionable quality control (imho). Thanks for the video.
@@Lensman64 I was talking about taking it out the box and it just working when I say noob friendly. I remember the older Enders where you had to properly assemble them. Then had to have knowledge to keep them running. I find that if you buy direct from creality and take pictures of you QR code and list every fault and everything you have done to fix it and moan they usually just send the parts to you little questions. It’s annoying though any big parts are sent from China and take like five weeks to get to the UK anything small comes in a week from Poland. The quality is annoying, and I’ve owned a few machines even resin and wash stations every machines has had to have replacement parts sent out. I had massive problems with this K1 max to the point I demanded to return it to them. I opened a return with PayPal only to find out the machine was shipped from China not the uk like I was lead to believe. In order to return it I would have had to pay the postage at my expense. Shipping this size item was a fortune so I ended up keeping it and fixing it. Creality are cheap machines and you have to understand that the corners cut to save money are annoying. If you want a machine that you don’t have to learn and fix the corners cut don’t buy creality. They are more like hobby machines. I learnt that if I want to save money I have to stop getting annoyed and moaning like a child and deal with it. Because in the end when I fixed the problem I felt proud of myself for over coming the problem.
@@theaftermathshow6595I totally agree with you about Creality. I’m printing since 2013 (Ultimaker Original series) , if I live in Europe or North America I would buy BambuLab machines… but here in South America (Brazil to be exact) the X1C is three times more expensive than the K1Max (which is also bigger). I trully doesn’t understand why people from those countries doesn’t prefer Bambu printers… they have a much polished machine and software solutions and their printers are longer on the market (comparing both printers). I only understand if you guys say that are looking for a bigger area.
By the way, we cannot be influenced with YT videos that say “Bambu Killer” or something else… cause the majority is looking for Creality bonus or affiliated links (commision). 3d printing reviews are getting worst day by day… the trustfull channels are not reviewing anymore.
Thanks for the video, aprreciated it!
Cheers and peace out V
good 3d printing reviews are long term reviews most of the time. To be fair, “Aurora Tech” is a good channel that makes a lot of test reviews and they look very trustfull. CNC Kitchen, Makers Muse, Tom Sandlander and others “old school” channels are not making reviews anymore intread of a revolutionary machine that should be mensioned. Cheers