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Hey this is a really silly question but can you confirm what mounts I can change without supporting the engine and which ones I will have to? I just wanna be 100% sure and I didn’t know if you supported the engine when you replaced the top mount.
For anyone outside of USA who owns the same car but with the D5 diesel engine, the engine mounts in those are "active" engine mounts that plug into some vaccum lines to change the stiffness of the engine mount at idle and at higher RPM. So if you are getting heavy vibration from the diesel engine at idle, it may be that the engine mounts are leaking vaccum, or the vaccum lines to them are leaking.
Just replaced all 5 engine mounts. Oh what fun! The video was of great assistance. I recommend that those that haven't done this yet to use PB Blaster or something similar on all the bolts prior to removing. The biggest pain were the 2 engine mounts that are similar in shape and were the last 2 done in the video. Took me 5 hours, so that's an hour per mount...lol. Trying to remove those bolts on the last 2 mounts took the most time and that's what extended my work time. Trying to remove the 4th mount that was listed in the video was a royal pain. Also pay attention to the passenger side mount. I had to lift the engine much higher than I expected due to the 4th engine mount no cooperating. I came close to removing the lower hose, but fortunately I was able to wrestle it out. Don't forget to use blue thread locker on the bolts. Remember, these guys are making quick videos to give you a very good idea on what to do. They're not showing the difficulties from this. One final note. I used 4 jack stands for safety purpose and I placed the tire under the vehicle. I also screwed together 2 2x6 that were 10 inches long and used that on top of the floor jack when holding up the engine. If you're using a cheap floor jack that leaks slightly then don't do this job. Hopefully with the Hutchinson parts I shouldn't have to do this for a long time. Next up are the inner and outer tie rods. I just ordered from FCP and looking forward to knock it out. Once again there's a video on that. Gotta love the lifetime guarantee on parts and videos!
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Just finished this job on my daughter’s 2005 XC70. Thought it would be a nightmare for those bottom mounts from some of the previous comments, but for me, 5 hours total and I wasn’t killing myself. Did the top and passenger side first and left the trans mount for last. Removed the top bolts for the front and rear mounts before putting it up on the jacks. I did not remove the radiator hose to remove the front mount. You can definitely wiggle it past the hose. The back mount bottom bolt is removable with a 3/8” extension and swivel socket. Doesn’t look like enough space but you can push it through the gap at the required angle to get to that bolt. BTW, did this in my garage on jack stands. All in all, very satisfied and eliminated the shaking upon acceleration. Local shop had quoted her 1800.00, so well worth the effort. All of these repairs from the bottom of the car go more smoothly with a really good light source. It makes all the difference when you can see everything clearly. Cheers.
Hi Gerry -- I have a 2005 XC70 also. What was the most difficult mount to replace? Were all your mounts pretty bad? Which mounts were the worst condition? I'm getting a vibration upon acceleration from take off until about 20MPH. Where did you purchase your mounts? I'm looking at FCP at about $290.
My daughter purchased the kit not through FCP. I believe the kit with five mounts was about 160 bucks. The most difficult mount was probably the front bottom engine mount. It just takes a little bit of time to get it out and then wiggle it past the radiator hose. But all in all, none of them were that difficult. None of my mounts were horrifically destroyed, but probably the front bottom mount was in the worst condition. I used a 3/8 drive socket for most of the bolts. You can’t really use a half inch drive especially for the bottom bolt on the rear engine mount. There’s just not enough room. The rear one really just need a 3/8 inch drive socket and an extension + a swivel and the correct socket; I believe 15mm short. There are a couple of bolts on the passenger side that I could only get with a wrench and not a socket. But the passenger side is really a piece of cake once you remove the wheel. I’m gonna move onto the CV axles next because while doing this, I discovered one of my boots had torn open and dumped all its grease so I’m definitely getting some vibration from a bad passenger side CV axle. While I’m at it, I’m gonna do the wheel hubs, ball joints, brakes and check the control arms and tie rods so I don't have to tear it apart again anytime soon. Besides, she is not close by, so when I have her car, I try to get as much maintenance, preventative maintenance done before returning it.
@@gerrysantora1706 Thanks for the quick reply and great information. I did my front ball joints, tie rod ends and the three bushings on the 2 control arms a couple of months ago. I take the arms to the local spring shop and have them push out/in the bushing, they charge about 60 bucks for six bushings. Good luck on the CV Joint. The you tube video on the CV joints look like a pretty straight shot to remove and replace. Have a great weekend brother. New Mexico here.
HI, nice info here, I just changed the Torque Rod in my xc90 2007, after seen this video. There is one important thing not mentioned in your video or any other, some mention that the transmission need to be raised so the old torque rod can be removed easy. Well my old torque rod was so lose that I didn´t see the need to raise the transmission at all. WRONG... after installing the new Torque Rod I took the car to test and verify the Job, well there was still a clunk, not as loud as before, provably like 15% only, and only when releasing the gas pedal and start to lose speed there was a clunk. So I went under the car again and unbolt the 2 bolt pointing backward of the car and then raised the transmission with a jack, like half inch, then tighten up again those 2 bolts and that was it, no noise at all. Thanks.
This is a real neat walk through to understand how and where the mountings are placed and how to access it. Not just a good mechanic but a great teacher too
I just replaced my top engine mount and this video is great for explaining how to do it. My one criticism is that for the other mounts, it's difficult to see what the mechanic is working on. All I see is subframe and elbow. I think an investment in a scope camera would really benefit all these great videos you're producing. At least to get a clear visual of what bolt or part we're looking at when we do these repairs at home.
11:47 "... and you're all set." Uh no, you forgot the bolt for the top engine mount!!! Love all your videos. You guys saved me huge $$$ and keep my XC70 running.
Just did the front and rear mounts. The 14mm and 13mm swivel sockets are a must. Second, takes mich longer on the awd models as the angle gear and prop shaft are in the way for the rear mount.
Just a helpful note to other 2007 V70 2.5T owners - the top nut on the rear mount can easily be assessed through the top of the engine bay with a couple extensions, but you will need to remove the cross brace. Also i highly recommend securing/tightening the front, side, and transmission mounts and moving the jack back slightly before attempting the rear. It'll make it much easier to get it out.
Vennia Camiguin I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Jay, you are truly a master mechanic. Your videos give me the additional en(courage)ment to do jobs that I would have normally taken to my mechanic. I actually just finished replacing all four mounts on my 1999 S70. Unfortunately, due to limited clearances, the extraction and replacement of the lower front and rear mounts on the P80 platform vehicles requires the removal of the engine mount brackets and mounts together. This takes considerably more time, effort and swearing than shown in your crisp and informative video, but I persevered, muttering all the time WWJD (what would Jay do). Anyway, I just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks again for your great parts, service and extremely helpful and informative videos. FCP Euro is the best!
Appreciate the kind words, and glad Jay is able to give you the right amount of info and calmness to encourage tackling a job like this on your own! We are here to support the DIY community and love to hear it's appreciated and helps out our customers.
Yeh, been all day on the back lower mount, mine must be a special Volvo , 14mm bottom bolt !! and not the same amount of room , used a crowbar and wooden wedges to get the socket located ! Good video.
When the lower right mount near the crank goes bad, the rubber becomes detached from the plate (it should be vulcanised to the plate). This happened when I lowered the front of the subframe to replace the transmission solenoids: the engine shifted to the right and broke the lower right engine mount. The right lower bolt may be hard to access with a 1/2" ratchet because of the CV joint. Use a short socket, or remove the axle. The bolts may also be very hard to turn, unless some oil leaked on the mount which will preserve the bolts from corrosion.
This is a great video potentially but yet it has a serious problem. If you just read the title and then try to follow it step by step, the job is much harder than it has to be. All the mounts should be changed at the same time, but the video would have you install one mount then take it loose to install the next and Install the top mount then try to lift the engine, etc. The order of the job sequence needs to be changed to show the easiest way. Installing the mounts simultaneously, getting all new mounts in place then tightening everything up would be easier.
Jay, would it be possible for you to state the symptoms we will see if the engine mounts are bad? Also, would it be better to replace the front and rear mounts first before the side and transmission mount since you had to loosen those anyway? Thanks
At time mark 9:55 you mention getting new bolts. Can you say what they are (M# and length) please? Also, besides the frnt mount, are there any topside mounts that need to be loosened/unbolted to do the front (under crank pulley) and front/rear lower mounts? It would also be helpful it you showed where you supported the engine on the pan -- I assume you did it along a sidewall... I was also considering using a fender engine support since I will be doing this on the ground -- any pros/cons?
What is the diagonal wire for on the front and rear engine mounts? I noticed that they are left on. Is that correct? I thought maybe they were to keep compression on the mounts before they are installed
I've just ordered all these parts for my Volvo S60 d5 2003 it will probably take me a month to do it but at least it will get done and thank you for a brilliant video😎
This video helped me tremendously except for the lower back mount. I have a s80 T6 and it looks like the whole subframe has to go out to get anywhere near it. I gave up on that one for now. For the front mount I had to lower the entire bridge onto the hydraulic strut to get enough space to place the front mount.
Do the bolts need to have a certain torque, and should any coating be applied to the bolts as some people were talking about? Also, would replacing only the upper engine mount possibly fix vibration in the cabin, or would you recommend replacing all of the mounts at the same time? I know that replacing all of the mounts is probably better, but if I can keep work to a minimum but still fix the vibration, since I'm not super mechanically inclined, it would be great if replacing just the upper mount might solve the issue. At least I would try replacing that mount first. I would try not to be too optimistic with that idea, and if it doesn't work, I can attempt to replace the other mounts someday. (Might be a cool if frustrating/scary learning experience) Also, perhaps replacing only one mount isn't good for the lifespan of that mount if the other ones are worn out and put too much work on the new mount.
Question please. What's the torque setting for the bolts securing the cross bar and upper engine mount? I ask because I don't have air tools so will be doing the replacement by hand. Thanks.
LATE but the torque for the bolt and nut that goes through the middle of the upper mount is 62Ft-lbs. The torque for the four bolts that hold the engine mount onto the engine is 37 ft-lbs. The torque for the two bolts on each side for the strut brace mount is 37 ft-lbs. th-cam.com/video/my7xtaZC67g/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Frenchineer this video has all of the torque specs for each engine mount.
Great vid. On the top mount, however, I found it much easier to replace the top mount by only removing the coil covers and sliding them off to the side. If no power tools, have a breaker bar. I got to one nut that was in there tight.
Good freaking LUCK getting that passenger mount off without a lift. The bolt closer to the rear wheels is torqued so damn tight and the space is so small that nothing more than a flat wrench will fit, you can get get any torque on it while on the ground and you can't fit a breaker bar in the space. You will most definitely need a lift. I didn't even try to do the two bulbus mounts, but I don't imagine that would have been easy. The upper mount and the Trans tourqe mount were a breeze, though 😂
what is a safe spot to support the engine and transmission when attempting to remove the front lower mounts? I noticed Jay is using a 4x4 piece of wood to distribute the weight to avoid damaging vital parts, I assume? And how much "supporting" are we talking about here?
Great Info! I have a 2009 Volvo S60 Had aligned 3 times. The left front inner 1"-1 1/2" of tire is getting ground away. Last Check I had the shop inspect for any thing broken, bent or missing. Nothing Found Any Thoughts where I can look.
U recommend having extra bolts on hand for when they snap off, but there are no bolts in the kit you post. What bolts should I add to the parts? Thanks
Could weight shift/ clunking on bumps be a symptom of bad rear lower and front lower engine mount/pads? I'm about to replace those in the next week as everything else has been rebuilt/replaced on the suspension and both top mount and passenger mount have been replaced. I feel heavy vibrations, weight shift, clunks on sharp bumps right under the steering wheel where the rear mount is. Everything on my car is brand new/rebuilt except these two mounts..they have been overlooked and the car is at 200,000 miles now. Other mounts seem to have failed very soon after they have been replaced, within 5-10 thousand miles which makes me think there is a problem with the other two mounts. The engine seems to be down in the bay a half inch or so.
So in theory if I unbolt all those mounts with the engine supported from above, unmount the power steering rack and control arms, I can drop my bent subframe? 04 XC70 AWD. Is if best to support the car front under the bumper rail with frond bumper removed?
@@fcpeuro side note, right front wheel hit a curb, passenger air bag went off. If I replace the dash/airbag, impact sensor, and put in a new SRS Control module, do I still need expensive VIDA reprogramming? IS that something I can do on my own with the VIDA software? How do I know if the seatbelt tensioner fired too? Car only cost me $1500 so it's only worth fixing if I can do most all work my self.
I don't think you showed how you accessed the top bolt of the rear engine mount. But at 10:41 it appears you easily accessed it from the bottom. Will there really be that much room from the bottom?
I have the Haynes manual, I can post some of the bolt torque specs here. The weird thing is that they don't include the hydraulic mounts in the instructions. Just the rubber ones , so they must've forgotten
Didn't your car have a plastic skid plate/cover that had to be removed from underneath before you could get to the transmission torque mount? I have a v70 so it might be different but all of the other parts look the same.
Thanks for video just bought a 2002 s60 i noticed a litlle vibration plus when i shur engine off i notice it doesn't shut off smoothly..what do u recommend?
jonathanmorales Morales maybe this is too late but i have the same issue with my s60 from 2001 2.4i. I did alot of research and all the Symptoms indicate a worn flywheel. Try to press the clutch when shutting off, it should improve. If it does und it is the flywheel.
I think I made a mistake. Not only did I support the engine, but I raised it by 1-2 centimeters. Can this cause problems with vacuum mounts? I thought it would be necessary to lift the engine because it pushed down the mount. But by lifting the engine the vacuum mounts did not "stretch" or something wrong?
Your videos are great! Truly helpful. Replaced my upper engine mount, no problem. The lower engine mount near timing belt is another story. Without a lift, it’s rather difficult. I still haven’t figured out how to get the bolts off the base of the mount. There’s no room for an impact wrench & using a manual wrench requires the strength of 6 gorillas or dynamite to remove them. Got any suggestions besides going to a garage?
You will never get an impact wrench on those. You simply need to use more torque. My suggestion would be a pipe over the end of the wrench, or buy a longer wrench.
I have a 2004 S60 2.5t and I went over a terrible bump last week, now it’s riding terribly. My passenger seat shakes while I drive, the entire front, even my wheel, and it cocks to the right. Any suggestions? I want some advice before I go to a mechanic and pay an arm and a leg. I’m assuming it’s the engine mounts, maybe a bad axle now, perhaps struts as well, I’m not very car savvy so please, help.
Been wondering about that crossbar that is hooked up to both sides and to the top engine mount, does that crossbar have bushings or anything that need to be replaced? I can move mine forward and backwards really easily.
You called the mount accessed through the passenger side wheel well the "front mount".You called the one under the radiator the "front mount" too. The one accessed through the wheel well is the side mount, right?
Great video - keep ‘em comin’! What size/brand is your swivel that you used for the rear mount? I just wasted an hour trying to get a typical 3/8 swivel connected to a 14mm socket up there at the right angle and ended up losing my mind. Is it a 1/4”? I’m able to get the socket on the bolt but the sway bar is preventing me from getting it nice and flush so it slips.
Thank you. I the end I got it done by pushing my 1/4” socket and swivel joint to their absolute limit. Managed the screw up on the assembly though. I got impatient and did not take the time to fully align the bottom bolt to the underside of the mount so bolt went in x-threaded. Nice. Not a proud moment.
Great work you really know your Stuff. How many Motor Mounts is on Volvo S60 2002? What's the cost to fix motor mounts on S60 Volvo 2002? How long will it take to fix the motor mounts?
Thanks, sunflowers2925! There are a total of 5 mounts for the engine/transmission on a Volvo s60. You can read more about it here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5 And here: blog.fcpeuro.com/replacing-the-front-rear-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
There's 4 mounts for your C70, you'll want to look into replacing the engine torque rod mount first. This is usually the most common one to replace that will cause vibrations. www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=8649597%2C+Engine+Torque+Rod+Mount
What sort of indications do you get that tells me the mounts need changing? Is there any way to test the quality of the engine mounts? I have a 2007 XC70 2.5T that shakes when under load at between 90 -100 kph.
Good luck to the driveway guys. Pulling the front mount out wasn’t at all easy. I had to drain the radiator and remove the lower hose to get it out. Also all of his 14mm were 13mm on my car. 2007 s60
HELP. 2004 XC70 Front impact sensors. * Please tell me the location. * This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP
@@fcpeuro so I replaced all 4 engine mounts, 2 pnematic items, 1 pillow from the right side, and 1 from the front bottom when I dismantle the bottom one, not pnematical! this car stops vibrating, I don't know what's going on? engine works properly.
@@fcpeuroexactly that you would understand me, when I download the hello from your video in 5.30min then the vibration problem disappears. but I can't drive without this part.
what took you so long to post this video, i just did all of mine on a 2005 xc70 and what a pain. the only info i could find said to remove the front fans to do the front mount.
I have a 2006 xc70 and the vibration is getting worse, particularly at acceleration. 30 mph it is tolerable. How long did it take you to swap everything out? 230k miles.
Read More Here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-a-volvo-v70-s80-s60-xc70-upper-engine-mount-p2
Buy This Kit Here:www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-mount-kit-s60-v70-xc70-s80-xc90-hutchinson-kit-p2mmkit2p5?
Hi, can you do s60 2008 turbo seals or leaks video? Thanks
Hey this is a really silly question but can you confirm what mounts I can change without supporting the engine and which ones I will have to? I just wanna be 100% sure and I didn’t know if you supported the engine when you replaced the top mount.
I love watching these vids! Only problem is in real life it all takes 10 times longer!!
record in fast forward
Yup lol.
For anyone outside of USA who owns the same car but with the D5 diesel engine, the engine mounts in those are "active" engine mounts that plug into some vaccum lines to change the stiffness of the engine mount at idle and at higher RPM. So if you are getting heavy vibration from the diesel engine at idle, it may be that the engine mounts are leaking vaccum, or the vaccum lines to them are leaking.
I've got literally the situation You mentioned. Could You provide some info ? have You had this case?
Just replaced all 5 engine mounts. Oh what fun! The video was of great assistance. I recommend that those that haven't done this yet to use PB Blaster or something similar on all the bolts prior to removing. The biggest pain were the 2 engine mounts that are similar in shape and were the last 2 done in the video. Took me 5 hours, so that's an hour per mount...lol. Trying to remove those bolts on the last 2 mounts took the most time and that's what extended my work time. Trying to remove the 4th mount that was listed in the video was a royal pain. Also pay attention to the passenger side mount. I had to lift the engine much higher than I expected due to the 4th engine mount no cooperating. I came close to removing the lower hose, but fortunately I was able to wrestle it out. Don't forget to use blue thread locker on the bolts. Remember, these guys are making quick videos to give you a very good idea on what to do. They're not showing the difficulties from this. One final note. I used 4 jack stands for safety purpose and I placed the tire under the vehicle. I also screwed together 2 2x6 that were 10 inches long and used that on top of the floor jack when holding up the engine. If you're using a cheap floor jack that leaks slightly then don't do this job. Hopefully with the Hutchinson parts I shouldn't have to do this for a long time. Next up are the inner and outer tie rods. I just ordered from FCP and looking forward to knock it out. Once again there's a video on that. Gotta love the lifetime guarantee on parts and videos!
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Blue threadlocker? Awww man, I used copper paste. I wonder if I'm fine...
@@johannesmajamaki2626 no, kestikö kiinni?
@@kasperipiiparinen8729 kyl ne kiinni on
Just finished this job on my daughter’s 2005 XC70. Thought it would be a nightmare for those
bottom mounts from some of the previous comments, but for me, 5 hours total and I wasn’t killing myself. Did the top and passenger side first and left the trans mount for last. Removed the top bolts for the front and rear mounts before putting it up on the jacks. I did not remove the radiator hose to remove the front mount. You can definitely wiggle it past the hose. The back mount bottom bolt is removable with a 3/8” extension and swivel socket. Doesn’t look like enough space but you can push it through the gap at the required angle to get to that bolt. BTW, did this in my garage on jack stands. All in all, very satisfied and eliminated the shaking upon acceleration. Local shop had quoted her 1800.00, so well worth the effort. All of these repairs from the bottom of the car go more smoothly with a really good light source. It makes all the difference when you can see everything clearly. Cheers.
Hi Gerry -- I have a 2005 XC70 also.
What was the most difficult mount to replace?
Were all your mounts pretty bad? Which mounts were the worst condition?
I'm getting a vibration upon acceleration from take off until about 20MPH.
Where did you purchase your mounts? I'm looking at FCP at about $290.
My daughter purchased the kit not through FCP. I believe the kit with five mounts was about 160 bucks. The most difficult mount was probably the front bottom engine mount. It just takes a little bit of time to get it out and then wiggle it past the radiator hose. But all in all, none of them were that difficult. None of my mounts were horrifically destroyed, but probably the front bottom mount was in the worst condition. I used a 3/8 drive socket for most of the bolts. You can’t really use a half inch drive especially for the bottom bolt on the rear engine mount. There’s just not enough room. The rear one really just need a 3/8 inch drive socket and an extension + a swivel and the correct socket; I believe 15mm short. There are a couple of bolts on the passenger side that I could only get with a wrench and not a socket. But the passenger side is really a piece of cake once you remove the wheel. I’m gonna move onto the CV axles next because while doing this, I discovered one of my boots had torn open and dumped all its grease so I’m definitely getting some vibration from a bad passenger side CV axle. While I’m at it, I’m gonna do the wheel hubs, ball joints, brakes and check the control arms and tie rods so I don't have to tear it apart again anytime soon. Besides, she is not close by, so when I have her car, I try to get as much maintenance, preventative maintenance done before returning it.
@@gerrysantora1706 Thanks for the quick reply and great information. I did my front ball joints, tie rod ends and the three bushings on the 2 control arms a couple of months ago. I take the arms to the local spring shop and have them push out/in the bushing, they charge about 60 bucks for six bushings. Good luck on the CV Joint. The you tube video on the CV joints look like a pretty straight shot to remove and replace. Have a great weekend brother. New Mexico here.
HI, nice info here, I just changed the Torque Rod in my xc90 2007, after seen this video. There is one important thing not mentioned in your video or any other, some mention that the transmission need to be raised so the old torque rod can be removed easy. Well my old torque rod was so lose that I didn´t see the need to raise the transmission at all. WRONG... after installing the new Torque Rod I took the car to test and verify the Job, well there was still a clunk, not as loud as before, provably like 15% only, and only when releasing the gas pedal and start to lose speed there was a clunk. So I went under the car again and unbolt the 2 bolt pointing backward of the car and then raised the transmission with a jack, like half inch, then tighten up again those 2 bolts and that was it, no noise at all.
Thanks.
This is a real neat walk through to understand how and where the mountings are placed and how to access it. Not just a good mechanic but a great teacher too
I just replaced my top engine mount and this video is great for explaining how to do it. My one criticism is that for the other mounts, it's difficult to see what the mechanic is working on. All I see is subframe and elbow. I think an investment in a scope camera would really benefit all these great videos you're producing. At least to get a clear visual of what bolt or part we're looking at when we do these repairs at home.
Absolutely they should totally get a borescope in the FCP action,
Detailed instructions helped me replace 2006 xc90 mounts. First time doing repairs with Milwaukee impact wrench.
11:47 "... and you're all set." Uh no, you forgot the bolt for the top engine mount!!!
Love all your videos. You guys saved me huge $$$ and keep my XC70 running.
Just did the front and rear mounts. The 14mm and 13mm swivel sockets are a must. Second, takes mich longer on the awd models as the angle gear and prop shaft are in the way for the rear mount.
Just a helpful note to other 2007 V70 2.5T owners - the top nut on the rear mount can easily be assessed through the top of the engine bay with a couple extensions, but you will need to remove the cross brace.
Also i highly recommend securing/tightening the front, side, and transmission mounts and moving the jack back slightly before attempting the rear. It'll make it much easier to get it out.
Great notes!
Vennia Camiguin
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Was yours awd? I'm curious how difficult it really is, as I need the rear mount badly.
How’d you remove the rear pad? It’s crammed in there good
Hi, My gearbox is falling and knocking ...do you know which one I have to replace first please ?
How much was the repair? My top mount is bad...I have the cross country xc70
Jay, you are truly a master mechanic. Your videos give me the additional en(courage)ment to do jobs that I would have normally taken to my mechanic. I actually just finished replacing all four mounts on my 1999 S70. Unfortunately, due to limited clearances, the extraction and replacement of the lower front and rear mounts on the P80 platform vehicles requires the removal of the engine mount brackets and mounts together. This takes considerably more time, effort and swearing than shown in your crisp and informative video, but I persevered, muttering all the time WWJD (what would Jay do). Anyway, I just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks again for your great parts, service and extremely helpful and informative videos. FCP Euro is the best!
Appreciate the kind words, and glad Jay is able to give you the right amount of info and calmness to encourage tackling a job like this on your own! We are here to support the DIY community and love to hear it's appreciated and helps out our customers.
Yeh, been all day on the back lower mount, mine must be a special Volvo , 14mm bottom bolt !! and not the same amount of room , used a crowbar and wooden wedges to get the socket located ! Good video.
When the lower right mount near the crank goes bad, the rubber becomes detached from the plate (it should be vulcanised to the plate). This happened when I lowered the front of the subframe to replace the transmission solenoids: the engine shifted to the right and broke the lower right engine mount.
The right lower bolt may be hard to access with a 1/2" ratchet because of the CV joint. Use a short socket, or remove the axle. The bolts may also be very hard to turn, unless some oil leaked on the mount which will preserve the bolts from corrosion.
Peppermint hello there! Apart from transmission and upper mount, how to diagnose a bad engine mount? Thanx
Removing an axle to remove an engine mount bolt bolt is pretty extreme.
I want this guy to do all the engine mounts on my xc70. This looks like a $1500 fix at my place.
Awesome clip. It's about time we get more these kind of videos from FCP Euro.
This is a great video potentially but yet it has a serious problem. If you just read the title and then try to follow it step by step, the job is much harder than it has to be. All the mounts should be changed at the same time, but the video would have you install one mount then take it loose to install the next and Install the top mount then try to lift the engine, etc. The order of the job sequence needs to be changed to show the easiest way. Installing the mounts simultaneously, getting all new mounts in place then tightening everything up would be easier.
Jay, would it be possible for you to state the symptoms we will see if the engine mounts are bad? Also, would it be better to replace the front and rear mounts first before the side and transmission mount since you had to loosen those anyway? Thanks
Yes please.
I can picture myself lying on my back in my driveway trying to do this...
Don't forget to do it in the dark on the worst weather day of the year!
@@MongooseTacticoolhad this exactly not too long ago.
Great video. Please wear your safety glass when doing those repairs.
At time mark 9:55 you mention getting new bolts. Can you say what they are (M# and length) please? Also, besides the frnt mount, are there any topside mounts that need to be loosened/unbolted to do the front (under crank pulley) and front/rear lower mounts? It would also be helpful it you showed where you supported the engine on the pan -- I assume you did it along a sidewall... I was also considering using a fender engine support since I will be doing this on the ground -- any pros/cons?
What is the diagonal wire for on the front and rear engine mounts? I noticed that they are left on. Is that correct? I thought maybe they were to keep compression on the mounts before they are installed
I've just ordered all these parts for my Volvo S60 d5 2003
it will probably take me a month to do it but at least it will get done and thank you for a brilliant video😎
As long as the job gets done in the end, that's all that matters! Glad we were able to help, and good luck on the install.
I've finished fitting them today😄
Hmm, I've got the same model. Gonna be doing this in the next couple of months. :D This video is beyond helpful. :D
Sold my car after fixing it
Sick of repairs lol
And poor diesel mpg
@@bboyzagy Really glad you found the video helpful! Good luck with the repair!
This video helped me tremendously except for the lower back mount. I have a s80 T6 and it looks like the whole subframe has to go out to get anywhere near it. I gave up on that one for now.
For the front mount I had to lower the entire bridge onto the hydraulic strut to get enough space to place the front mount.
I see your eyes focused elsewhere while you are zero'd in on the feel of it ! Experience counts !!
Do the bolts need to have a certain torque, and should any coating be applied to the bolts as some people were talking about?
Also, would replacing only the upper engine mount possibly fix vibration in the cabin, or would you recommend replacing all of the mounts at the same time? I know that replacing all of the mounts is probably better, but if I can keep work to a minimum but still fix the vibration, since I'm not super mechanically inclined, it would be great if replacing just the upper mount might solve the issue. At least I would try replacing that mount first.
I would try not to be too optimistic with that idea, and if it doesn't work, I can attempt to replace the other mounts someday. (Might be a cool if frustrating/scary learning experience) Also, perhaps replacing only one mount isn't good for the lifespan of that mount if the other ones are worn out and put too much work on the new mount.
Question please. What's the torque setting for the bolts securing the cross bar and upper engine mount? I ask because I don't have air tools so will be doing the replacement by hand. Thanks.
LATE but the torque for the bolt and nut that goes through the middle of the upper mount is 62Ft-lbs. The torque for the four bolts that hold the engine mount onto the engine is 37 ft-lbs. The torque for the two bolts on each side for the strut brace mount is 37 ft-lbs.
th-cam.com/video/my7xtaZC67g/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Frenchineer this video has all of the torque specs for each engine mount.
Thanks for this vid. I'm currently waiting on these parts to be delivered. I was just gonna wing it but this vid shines some light on the process.
You're welcome!
I've just got the rear mount left to do. Shall I slacken all the other first to allow engine to lift ?
Great vid. On the top mount, however, I found it much easier to replace the top mount by only removing the coil covers and sliding them off to the side. If no power tools, have a breaker bar. I got to one nut that was in there tight.
Good freaking LUCK getting that passenger mount off without a lift. The bolt closer to the rear wheels is torqued so damn tight and the space is so small that nothing more than a flat wrench will fit, you can get get any torque on it while on the ground and you can't fit a breaker bar in the space. You will most definitely need a lift. I didn't even try to do the two bulbus mounts, but I don't imagine that would have been easy. The upper mount and the Trans tourqe mount were a breeze, though 😂
what is a safe spot to support the engine and transmission when attempting to remove the front lower mounts? I noticed Jay is using a 4x4 piece of wood to distribute the weight to avoid damaging vital parts, I assume? And how much "supporting" are we talking about here?
I can see myself takin an hr on 1 bolt 😆 thnks 😆
Great Info!
I have a 2009 Volvo S60
Had aligned 3 times.
The left front inner 1"-1 1/2" of tire is getting ground away.
Last Check I had the shop inspect for any thing broken, bent or missing. Nothing Found
Any Thoughts where I can look.
Subframe bushes or wishbone
very nice video my friend. strait and to the point. no horse shitting around.
My upper engine mount was completely broken. Should I expect the other mounts to be broken as well, or just change the upper and leave it at that?
It's advisable to look at them all.
U recommend having extra bolts on hand for when they snap off, but there are no bolts in the kit you post. What bolts should I add to the parts? Thanks
Awesome video! I always order parts from FCP Euro as great prices and lifetime free replacement on parts. Thanks alot!
He makes it look so easy 😂
Can you do a 2004 s60 2.5T ENGINE REMOVAL!?
Could weight shift/ clunking on bumps be a symptom of bad rear lower and front lower engine mount/pads? I'm about to replace those in the next week as everything else has been rebuilt/replaced on the suspension and both top mount and passenger mount have been replaced. I feel heavy vibrations, weight shift, clunks on sharp bumps right under the steering wheel where the rear mount is. Everything on my car is brand new/rebuilt except these two mounts..they have been overlooked and the car is at 200,000 miles now. Other mounts seem to have failed very soon after they have been replaced, within 5-10 thousand miles which makes me think there is a problem with the other two mounts. The engine seems to be down in the bay a half inch or so.
now THATS A MECHANIC!!
So in theory if I unbolt all those mounts with the engine supported from above, unmount the power steering rack and control arms, I can drop my bent subframe? 04 XC70 AWD. Is if best to support the car front under the bumper rail with frond bumper removed?
That is correct!
@@fcpeuro side note, right front wheel hit a curb, passenger air bag went off. If I replace the dash/airbag, impact sensor, and put in a new SRS Control module, do I still need expensive VIDA reprogramming? IS that something I can do on my own with the VIDA software? How do I know if the seatbelt tensioner fired too? Car only cost me $1500 so it's only worth fixing if I can do most all work my self.
@@JnJShiffler You really need to find a Volvo blog and ask questions there. This thread is about engine mounts. Google is your friend.
I saw some thick liquid on the engine mout the one thats under the coolant reservoir. Can you tell me if this is a problem ?
I don't think you showed how you accessed the top bolt of the rear engine mount. But at 10:41 it appears you easily accessed it from the bottom. Will there really be that much room from the bottom?
The bolt to the rear lower mount is a 14mm, but what bolt would I search for if buying an extra one?
I have the Haynes manual, I can post some of the bolt torque specs here. The weird thing is that they don't include the hydraulic mounts in the instructions. Just the rubber ones , so they must've forgotten
Excellent tutorial as always
Hey guys. How can I tell if my rear mount is bad? Will the wire around it be loose? Or is that normal after torque.
thanks to you guys, 1hr done!
Awesome, Dohe 4sho! Happy to help!
Didn't your car have a plastic skid plate/cover that had to be removed from underneath before you could get to the transmission torque mount? I have a v70 so it might be different but all of the other parts look the same.
Thanks for video just bought a 2002 s60 i noticed a litlle vibration plus when i shur engine off i notice it doesn't shut off smoothly..what do u recommend?
jonathanmorales Morales maybe this is too late but i have the same issue with my s60 from 2001 2.4i. I did alot of research and all the Symptoms indicate a worn flywheel. Try to press the clutch when shutting off, it should improve. If it does und it is the flywheel.
I think I made a mistake. Not only did I support the engine, but I raised it by 1-2 centimeters. Can this cause problems with vacuum mounts? I thought it would be necessary to lift the engine because it pushed down the mount. But by lifting the engine the vacuum mounts did not "stretch" or something wrong?
Great Video, You guys Rock.
I normally replace the top engine torque mount without removing the strut brace
Your videos are great! Truly helpful. Replaced my upper engine mount, no problem. The lower engine mount near timing belt is another story. Without a lift, it’s rather difficult. I still haven’t figured out how to get the bolts off the base of the mount. There’s no room for an impact wrench & using a manual wrench requires the strength of 6 gorillas or dynamite to remove them. Got any suggestions besides going to a garage?
You will never get an impact wrench on those. You simply need to use more torque. My suggestion would be a pipe over the end of the wrench, or buy a longer wrench.
get a wrench extender
I have a 2004 S60 2.5t and I went over a terrible bump last week, now it’s riding terribly. My passenger seat shakes while I drive, the entire front, even my wheel, and it cocks to the right. Any suggestions? I want some advice before I go to a mechanic and pay an arm and a leg. I’m assuming it’s the engine mounts, maybe a bad axle now, perhaps struts as well, I’m not very car savvy so please, help.
I presume this was an axle issue? Exact same issue for me. I replaced the shock, control arm and spring and it made no difference
Are the main two mounts flexible enough to raise the front and only replace it without touching the rear?
Thanks for the wall through!
Been wondering about that crossbar that is hooked up to both sides and to the top engine mount, does that crossbar have bushings or anything that need to be replaced? I can move mine forward and backwards really easily.
How did you cover the holes where the headlight wipers used to be? I've removed mine but couldn't find a part to fill an 04 s60.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162309147893
You should be able to get different colours
Will I need to drop the drive shaft to change the rear mount on my AWD model?
Hi, the title mentions the C70 but the description doesn't, are these mounts all in the same places on the 2001 C70?
Thx. Super Pro AND very useful video.🎉
can i lose power/boost if one of the bottom active engine mounts are leaking?
How do you secure the right torque on the bolts when you use your air impact wrench??
Thats easy - You just count the ugga dugga's.
You don't. People who use them pretend they know how to count uga's... but they don't.
What swivel socket is that being used on the rear mount bolt.? It seems to be magnetic and holds its position. I need one like that.
Do you have to Jack the engine to do the one in top of the engine?
Absolute great video
Just completed the upper on my 2006 s60. Both bolts were 18mm, and my anchor bolts were 13mm. 🤷🏼♂
What’s it usually cost to have all these replaced by a mechanic shop? A good estimate?
Probably around $400.
Nice job--thank you.
You're welcome, Peter!
You called the mount accessed through the passenger side wheel well the "front mount".You called the one under the radiator the "front mount" too. The one accessed through the wheel well is the side mount, right?
And you called it the "front mount" again (the passenger side one) when describing how to replace the front mount in front.
Just watched this, and I really don't know why. I need to see a 960 video. Heh! But boy, Volvo didn't make it easy on several of these, did they?
Great video - keep ‘em comin’! What size/brand is your swivel that you used for the rear mount? I just wasted an hour trying to get a typical 3/8 swivel connected to a 14mm socket up there at the right angle and ended up losing my mind. Is it a 1/4”? I’m able to get the socket on the bolt but the sway bar is preventing me from getting it nice and flush so it slips.
Everything was 3/8 and a Snap-On swivel was used in the video.
Thank you. I the end I got it done by pushing my 1/4” socket and swivel joint to their absolute limit. Managed the screw up on the assembly though. I got impatient and did not take the time to fully align the bottom bolt to the underside of the mount so bolt went in x-threaded. Nice. Not a proud moment.
You're welcome!
Is this procedure applicable to the D5 diesel engines?
Great video! Congrats!
Thank you :)
Everything is same, except one different front and back engine mounts are vaccum mounts
Great work you really know your Stuff.
How many Motor Mounts is on Volvo S60 2002?
What's the cost to fix motor mounts on
S60 Volvo 2002?
How long will it take to fix the motor mounts?
Thanks, sunflowers2925! There are a total of 5 mounts for the engine/transmission on a Volvo s60. You can read more about it here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
And here: blog.fcpeuro.com/replacing-the-front-rear-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
Having a lift to gain easy access is super to have....which I do not!
I know there is some places that rent a rack. When I visited my parents near Milwaukee Wi...there is a place that has about 8 bays you and can rent.
Mark Moffatt that is so cool and definitely will make the job easier.
Салам алейкум! Вольво хс70 2001 г, замена всех ремней и роликов можно показать мануал. I m from Kazakhstan, Taraz.
I have 2002 c70 convertible..with terrible vibration there no exhaust leak..should i change all mounts ? How many mounts in total thanks
There's 4 mounts for your C70, you'll want to look into replacing the engine torque rod mount first. This is usually the most common one to replace that will cause vibrations.
www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=8649597%2C+Engine+Torque+Rod+Mount
How similar is this process on a 2012 S60?
What sort of indications do you get that tells me the mounts need changing? Is there any way to test the quality of the engine mounts?
I have a 2007 XC70 2.5T that shakes when under load at between 90 -100 kph.
Excessive vibrations and engine movement is usually caused by a worn engine mount.
are the front and rear bottom engine mounts the same or r they different???
On point - nice! Thank you
Good luck to the driveway guys. Pulling the front mount out wasn’t at all easy. I had to drain the radiator and remove the lower hose to get it out. Also all of his 14mm were 13mm on my car. 2007 s60
I would use a torque wrench
How many engine mounts are there for 2008 XC90
How long does this take
What the tightening torque specs
Super cool video entry
At what milage do you need to do this?
Usually around the 100k mileage mark.
Is the process the same for a C70?
HELP. 2004 XC70 Front impact sensors. * Please tell me the location. * This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP
This is the WRONG place to ask that question.
Is this the same on the s60 r
pls do a S40 engine mount replacement 👍🏽
We can add that to the list!
The crossbar does not need to be removed to replace the upper mount.
my vovlo v70 2004r i am change all . nonstop vibration why?
You replaced all the engine mounts and it is still shaking? Is your engine running properly? Do you have all the mounts torqued properly?
@@fcpeuro so I replaced all 4 engine mounts, 2 pnematic items, 1 pillow from the right side, and 1 from the front bottom when I dismantle the bottom one, not pnematical! this car stops vibrating, I don't know what's going on? engine works properly.
@@fcpeuroexactly that you would understand me, when I download the hello from your video in 5.30min then the vibration problem disappears. but I can't drive without this part.
what took you so long to post this video, i just did all of mine on a 2005 xc70 and what a pain. the only info i could find said to remove the front fans to do the front mount.
I have a 2006 xc70 and the vibration is getting worse, particularly at acceleration. 30 mph it is tolerable. How long did it take you to swap everything out? 230k miles.