Read More Here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-a-volvo-v70-s80-s60-xc70-upper-engine-mount-p2 Buy This Kit Here:www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-mount-kit-s60-v70-xc70-s80-xc90-hutchinson-kit-p2mmkit2p5?
Hey this is a really silly question but can you confirm what mounts I can change without supporting the engine and which ones I will have to? I just wanna be 100% sure and I didn’t know if you supported the engine when you replaced the top mount.
For anyone outside of USA who owns the same car but with the D5 diesel engine, the engine mounts in those are "active" engine mounts that plug into some vaccum lines to change the stiffness of the engine mount at idle and at higher RPM. So if you are getting heavy vibration from the diesel engine at idle, it may be that the engine mounts are leaking vaccum, or the vaccum lines to them are leaking.
HI, nice info here, I just changed the Torque Rod in my xc90 2007, after seen this video. There is one important thing not mentioned in your video or any other, some mention that the transmission need to be raised so the old torque rod can be removed easy. Well my old torque rod was so lose that I didn´t see the need to raise the transmission at all. WRONG... after installing the new Torque Rod I took the car to test and verify the Job, well there was still a clunk, not as loud as before, provably like 15% only, and only when releasing the gas pedal and start to lose speed there was a clunk. So I went under the car again and unbolt the 2 bolt pointing backward of the car and then raised the transmission with a jack, like half inch, then tighten up again those 2 bolts and that was it, no noise at all. Thanks.
This is a real neat walk through to understand how and where the mountings are placed and how to access it. Not just a good mechanic but a great teacher too
Just did the front and rear mounts. The 14mm and 13mm swivel sockets are a must. Second, takes mich longer on the awd models as the angle gear and prop shaft are in the way for the rear mount.
Just replaced all 5 engine mounts. Oh what fun! The video was of great assistance. I recommend that those that haven't done this yet to use PB Blaster or something similar on all the bolts prior to removing. The biggest pain were the 2 engine mounts that are similar in shape and were the last 2 done in the video. Took me 5 hours, so that's an hour per mount...lol. Trying to remove those bolts on the last 2 mounts took the most time and that's what extended my work time. Trying to remove the 4th mount that was listed in the video was a royal pain. Also pay attention to the passenger side mount. I had to lift the engine much higher than I expected due to the 4th engine mount no cooperating. I came close to removing the lower hose, but fortunately I was able to wrestle it out. Don't forget to use blue thread locker on the bolts. Remember, these guys are making quick videos to give you a very good idea on what to do. They're not showing the difficulties from this. One final note. I used 4 jack stands for safety purpose and I placed the tire under the vehicle. I also screwed together 2 2x6 that were 10 inches long and used that on top of the floor jack when holding up the engine. If you're using a cheap floor jack that leaks slightly then don't do this job. Hopefully with the Hutchinson parts I shouldn't have to do this for a long time. Next up are the inner and outer tie rods. I just ordered from FCP and looking forward to knock it out. Once again there's a video on that. Gotta love the lifetime guarantee on parts and videos!
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
This is a great video potentially but yet it has a serious problem. If you just read the title and then try to follow it step by step, the job is much harder than it has to be. All the mounts should be changed at the same time, but the video would have you install one mount then take it loose to install the next and Install the top mount then try to lift the engine, etc. The order of the job sequence needs to be changed to show the easiest way. Installing the mounts simultaneously, getting all new mounts in place then tightening everything up would be easier.
I just replaced my top engine mount and this video is great for explaining how to do it. My one criticism is that for the other mounts, it's difficult to see what the mechanic is working on. All I see is subframe and elbow. I think an investment in a scope camera would really benefit all these great videos you're producing. At least to get a clear visual of what bolt or part we're looking at when we do these repairs at home.
11:47 "... and you're all set." Uh no, you forgot the bolt for the top engine mount!!! Love all your videos. You guys saved me huge $$$ and keep my XC70 running.
Vennia Camiguin I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Jay, would it be possible for you to state the symptoms we will see if the engine mounts are bad? Also, would it be better to replace the front and rear mounts first before the side and transmission mount since you had to loosen those anyway? Thanks
Yeh, been all day on the back lower mount, mine must be a special Volvo , 14mm bottom bolt !! and not the same amount of room , used a crowbar and wooden wedges to get the socket located ! Good video.
Jay, you are truly a master mechanic. Your videos give me the additional en(courage)ment to do jobs that I would have normally taken to my mechanic. I actually just finished replacing all four mounts on my 1999 S70. Unfortunately, due to limited clearances, the extraction and replacement of the lower front and rear mounts on the P80 platform vehicles requires the removal of the engine mount brackets and mounts together. This takes considerably more time, effort and swearing than shown in your crisp and informative video, but I persevered, muttering all the time WWJD (what would Jay do). Anyway, I just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks again for your great parts, service and extremely helpful and informative videos. FCP Euro is the best!
Appreciate the kind words, and glad Jay is able to give you the right amount of info and calmness to encourage tackling a job like this on your own! We are here to support the DIY community and love to hear it's appreciated and helps out our customers.
When the lower right mount near the crank goes bad, the rubber becomes detached from the plate (it should be vulcanised to the plate). This happened when I lowered the front of the subframe to replace the transmission solenoids: the engine shifted to the right and broke the lower right engine mount. The right lower bolt may be hard to access with a 1/2" ratchet because of the CV joint. Use a short socket, or remove the axle. The bolts may also be very hard to turn, unless some oil leaked on the mount which will preserve the bolts from corrosion.
I've just ordered all these parts for my Volvo S60 d5 2003 it will probably take me a month to do it but at least it will get done and thank you for a brilliant video😎
Just a helpful note to other 2007 V70 2.5T owners - the top nut on the rear mount can easily be assessed through the top of the engine bay with a couple extensions, but you will need to remove the cross brace. Also i highly recommend securing/tightening the front, side, and transmission mounts and moving the jack back slightly before attempting the rear. It'll make it much easier to get it out.
At time mark 9:55 you mention getting new bolts. Can you say what they are (M# and length) please? Also, besides the frnt mount, are there any topside mounts that need to be loosened/unbolted to do the front (under crank pulley) and front/rear lower mounts? It would also be helpful it you showed where you supported the engine on the pan -- I assume you did it along a sidewall... I was also considering using a fender engine support since I will be doing this on the ground -- any pros/cons?
This video helped me tremendously except for the lower back mount. I have a s80 T6 and it looks like the whole subframe has to go out to get anywhere near it. I gave up on that one for now. For the front mount I had to lower the entire bridge onto the hydraulic strut to get enough space to place the front mount.
What is the diagonal wire for on the front and rear engine mounts? I noticed that they are left on. Is that correct? I thought maybe they were to keep compression on the mounts before they are installed
Question please. What's the torque setting for the bolts securing the cross bar and upper engine mount? I ask because I don't have air tools so will be doing the replacement by hand. Thanks.
Do the bolts need to have a certain torque, and should any coating be applied to the bolts as some people were talking about? Also, would replacing only the upper engine mount possibly fix vibration in the cabin, or would you recommend replacing all of the mounts at the same time? I know that replacing all of the mounts is probably better, but if I can keep work to a minimum but still fix the vibration, since I'm not super mechanically inclined, it would be great if replacing just the upper mount might solve the issue. At least I would try replacing that mount first. I would try not to be too optimistic with that idea, and if it doesn't work, I can attempt to replace the other mounts someday. (Might be a cool if frustrating/scary learning experience) Also, perhaps replacing only one mount isn't good for the lifespan of that mount if the other ones are worn out and put too much work on the new mount.
Great vid. On the top mount, however, I found it much easier to replace the top mount by only removing the coil covers and sliding them off to the side. If no power tools, have a breaker bar. I got to one nut that was in there tight.
what is a safe spot to support the engine and transmission when attempting to remove the front lower mounts? I noticed Jay is using a 4x4 piece of wood to distribute the weight to avoid damaging vital parts, I assume? And how much "supporting" are we talking about here?
U recommend having extra bolts on hand for when they snap off, but there are no bolts in the kit you post. What bolts should I add to the parts? Thanks
Your videos are great! Truly helpful. Replaced my upper engine mount, no problem. The lower engine mount near timing belt is another story. Without a lift, it’s rather difficult. I still haven’t figured out how to get the bolts off the base of the mount. There’s no room for an impact wrench & using a manual wrench requires the strength of 6 gorillas or dynamite to remove them. Got any suggestions besides going to a garage?
You will never get an impact wrench on those. You simply need to use more torque. My suggestion would be a pipe over the end of the wrench, or buy a longer wrench.
I have the Haynes manual, I can post some of the bolt torque specs here. The weird thing is that they don't include the hydraulic mounts in the instructions. Just the rubber ones , so they must've forgotten
Could weight shift/ clunking on bumps be a symptom of bad rear lower and front lower engine mount/pads? I'm about to replace those in the next week as everything else has been rebuilt/replaced on the suspension and both top mount and passenger mount have been replaced. I feel heavy vibrations, weight shift, clunks on sharp bumps right under the steering wheel where the rear mount is. Everything on my car is brand new/rebuilt except these two mounts..they have been overlooked and the car is at 200,000 miles now. Other mounts seem to have failed very soon after they have been replaced, within 5-10 thousand miles which makes me think there is a problem with the other two mounts. The engine seems to be down in the bay a half inch or so.
I think I made a mistake. Not only did I support the engine, but I raised it by 1-2 centimeters. Can this cause problems with vacuum mounts? I thought it would be necessary to lift the engine because it pushed down the mount. But by lifting the engine the vacuum mounts did not "stretch" or something wrong?
Great Info! I have a 2009 Volvo S60 Had aligned 3 times. The left front inner 1"-1 1/2" of tire is getting ground away. Last Check I had the shop inspect for any thing broken, bent or missing. Nothing Found Any Thoughts where I can look.
Didn't your car have a plastic skid plate/cover that had to be removed from underneath before you could get to the transmission torque mount? I have a v70 so it might be different but all of the other parts look the same.
So in theory if I unbolt all those mounts with the engine supported from above, unmount the power steering rack and control arms, I can drop my bent subframe? 04 XC70 AWD. Is if best to support the car front under the bumper rail with frond bumper removed?
@@fcpeuro side note, right front wheel hit a curb, passenger air bag went off. If I replace the dash/airbag, impact sensor, and put in a new SRS Control module, do I still need expensive VIDA reprogramming? IS that something I can do on my own with the VIDA software? How do I know if the seatbelt tensioner fired too? Car only cost me $1500 so it's only worth fixing if I can do most all work my self.
I have a 2004 S60 2.5t and I went over a terrible bump last week, now it’s riding terribly. My passenger seat shakes while I drive, the entire front, even my wheel, and it cocks to the right. Any suggestions? I want some advice before I go to a mechanic and pay an arm and a leg. I’m assuming it’s the engine mounts, maybe a bad axle now, perhaps struts as well, I’m not very car savvy so please, help.
Good freaking LUCK getting that passenger mount off without a lift. The bolt closer to the rear wheels is torqued so damn tight and the space is so small that nothing more than a flat wrench will fit, you can get get any torque on it while on the ground and you can't fit a breaker bar in the space. You will most definitely need a lift. I didn't even try to do the two bulbus mounts, but I don't imagine that would have been easy. The upper mount and the Trans tourqe mount were a breeze, though 😂
Thanks for video just bought a 2002 s60 i noticed a litlle vibration plus when i shur engine off i notice it doesn't shut off smoothly..what do u recommend?
jonathanmorales Morales maybe this is too late but i have the same issue with my s60 from 2001 2.4i. I did alot of research and all the Symptoms indicate a worn flywheel. Try to press the clutch when shutting off, it should improve. If it does und it is the flywheel.
Great video - keep ‘em comin’! What size/brand is your swivel that you used for the rear mount? I just wasted an hour trying to get a typical 3/8 swivel connected to a 14mm socket up there at the right angle and ended up losing my mind. Is it a 1/4”? I’m able to get the socket on the bolt but the sway bar is preventing me from getting it nice and flush so it slips.
Thank you. I the end I got it done by pushing my 1/4” socket and swivel joint to their absolute limit. Managed the screw up on the assembly though. I got impatient and did not take the time to fully align the bottom bolt to the underside of the mount so bolt went in x-threaded. Nice. Not a proud moment.
Been wondering about that crossbar that is hooked up to both sides and to the top engine mount, does that crossbar have bushings or anything that need to be replaced? I can move mine forward and backwards really easily.
Great work you really know your Stuff. How many Motor Mounts is on Volvo S60 2002? What's the cost to fix motor mounts on S60 Volvo 2002? How long will it take to fix the motor mounts?
Thanks, sunflowers2925! There are a total of 5 mounts for the engine/transmission on a Volvo s60. You can read more about it here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5 And here: blog.fcpeuro.com/replacing-the-front-rear-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
what took you so long to post this video, i just did all of mine on a 2005 xc70 and what a pain. the only info i could find said to remove the front fans to do the front mount.
I have a 2006 xc70 and the vibration is getting worse, particularly at acceleration. 30 mph it is tolerable. How long did it take you to swap everything out? 230k miles.
You called the mount accessed through the passenger side wheel well the "front mount".You called the one under the radiator the "front mount" too. The one accessed through the wheel well is the side mount, right?
HELP. 2004 XC70 Front impact sensors. * Please tell me the location. * This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP
What sort of indications do you get that tells me the mounts need changing? Is there any way to test the quality of the engine mounts? I have a 2007 XC70 2.5T that shakes when under load at between 90 -100 kph.
@@fcpeuro so I replaced all 4 engine mounts, 2 pnematic items, 1 pillow from the right side, and 1 from the front bottom when I dismantle the bottom one, not pnematical! this car stops vibrating, I don't know what's going on? engine works properly.
@@fcpeuroexactly that you would understand me, when I download the hello from your video in 5.30min then the vibration problem disappears. but I can't drive without this part.
Hey my fiend , I’m in a process of buying a 2005 Cx90 T6 , it has a high milege and it doesn’t start , the owner says the mechanics couldn’t put it on time , the price Is good 700 us. Lol I really wanna buy it
Sounds like a bit of a project! Check and make sure there is no engine damage from a possible timing failure. Also that transmission can be a bit problematic as well.
You'll want to look for signs of deterioration in the bushing, you'll mainly notice this from cracks within the bushing of the mount. You can also tell from excessive engine vibration and movement.
Read More Here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-a-volvo-v70-s80-s60-xc70-upper-engine-mount-p2
Buy This Kit Here:www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-mount-kit-s60-v70-xc70-s80-xc90-hutchinson-kit-p2mmkit2p5?
Hi, can you do s60 2008 turbo seals or leaks video? Thanks
Hey this is a really silly question but can you confirm what mounts I can change without supporting the engine and which ones I will have to? I just wanna be 100% sure and I didn’t know if you supported the engine when you replaced the top mount.
For anyone outside of USA who owns the same car but with the D5 diesel engine, the engine mounts in those are "active" engine mounts that plug into some vaccum lines to change the stiffness of the engine mount at idle and at higher RPM. So if you are getting heavy vibration from the diesel engine at idle, it may be that the engine mounts are leaking vaccum, or the vaccum lines to them are leaking.
I've got literally the situation You mentioned. Could You provide some info ? have You had this case?
I love watching these vids! Only problem is in real life it all takes 10 times longer!!
record in fast forward
Yup lol.
HI, nice info here, I just changed the Torque Rod in my xc90 2007, after seen this video. There is one important thing not mentioned in your video or any other, some mention that the transmission need to be raised so the old torque rod can be removed easy. Well my old torque rod was so lose that I didn´t see the need to raise the transmission at all. WRONG... after installing the new Torque Rod I took the car to test and verify the Job, well there was still a clunk, not as loud as before, provably like 15% only, and only when releasing the gas pedal and start to lose speed there was a clunk. So I went under the car again and unbolt the 2 bolt pointing backward of the car and then raised the transmission with a jack, like half inch, then tighten up again those 2 bolts and that was it, no noise at all.
Thanks.
This is a real neat walk through to understand how and where the mountings are placed and how to access it. Not just a good mechanic but a great teacher too
Just did the front and rear mounts. The 14mm and 13mm swivel sockets are a must. Second, takes mich longer on the awd models as the angle gear and prop shaft are in the way for the rear mount.
Just replaced all 5 engine mounts. Oh what fun! The video was of great assistance. I recommend that those that haven't done this yet to use PB Blaster or something similar on all the bolts prior to removing. The biggest pain were the 2 engine mounts that are similar in shape and were the last 2 done in the video. Took me 5 hours, so that's an hour per mount...lol. Trying to remove those bolts on the last 2 mounts took the most time and that's what extended my work time. Trying to remove the 4th mount that was listed in the video was a royal pain. Also pay attention to the passenger side mount. I had to lift the engine much higher than I expected due to the 4th engine mount no cooperating. I came close to removing the lower hose, but fortunately I was able to wrestle it out. Don't forget to use blue thread locker on the bolts. Remember, these guys are making quick videos to give you a very good idea on what to do. They're not showing the difficulties from this. One final note. I used 4 jack stands for safety purpose and I placed the tire under the vehicle. I also screwed together 2 2x6 that were 10 inches long and used that on top of the floor jack when holding up the engine. If you're using a cheap floor jack that leaks slightly then don't do this job. Hopefully with the Hutchinson parts I shouldn't have to do this for a long time. Next up are the inner and outer tie rods. I just ordered from FCP and looking forward to knock it out. Once again there's a video on that. Gotta love the lifetime guarantee on parts and videos!
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Blue threadlocker? Awww man, I used copper paste. I wonder if I'm fine...
@@johannesmajamaki2626 no, kestikö kiinni?
@@kasperipiiparinen8729 kyl ne kiinni on
This is a great video potentially but yet it has a serious problem. If you just read the title and then try to follow it step by step, the job is much harder than it has to be. All the mounts should be changed at the same time, but the video would have you install one mount then take it loose to install the next and Install the top mount then try to lift the engine, etc. The order of the job sequence needs to be changed to show the easiest way. Installing the mounts simultaneously, getting all new mounts in place then tightening everything up would be easier.
I just replaced my top engine mount and this video is great for explaining how to do it. My one criticism is that for the other mounts, it's difficult to see what the mechanic is working on. All I see is subframe and elbow. I think an investment in a scope camera would really benefit all these great videos you're producing. At least to get a clear visual of what bolt or part we're looking at when we do these repairs at home.
Absolutely they should totally get a borescope in the FCP action,
Detailed instructions helped me replace 2006 xc90 mounts. First time doing repairs with Milwaukee impact wrench.
11:47 "... and you're all set." Uh no, you forgot the bolt for the top engine mount!!!
Love all your videos. You guys saved me huge $$$ and keep my XC70 running.
Vennia Camiguin
I replaced all 5 mounts today of my 2005 XC70 because of heavy vibrations compared to my S80 of the same year and with the same engine. Smooth as new now! I really struggled to get the front and rear hydrolic mounts out and eventually had to raise the engine with gearbox far higher than anticipated. But it didn't harm anything and gave me the space to properly place the new mounts. Broke of one of the bolts on the passenger side support mount as it was rusted in the bracket. Seems the engine bracket can be taken off to fix this but will try to take the remaining bold out with special tools. The support with one bold will hold up until then. A well organized toolbox is a must and I wish I had a lift but have been crawling in and out underneath the car many times with proper jack stands around. Open for questions if you have.
Was yours awd? I'm curious how difficult it really is, as I need the rear mount badly.
How’d you remove the rear pad? It’s crammed in there good
Hi, My gearbox is falling and knocking ...do you know which one I have to replace first please ?
How much was the repair? My top mount is bad...I have the cross country xc70
Jay, would it be possible for you to state the symptoms we will see if the engine mounts are bad? Also, would it be better to replace the front and rear mounts first before the side and transmission mount since you had to loosen those anyway? Thanks
I can picture myself lying on my back in my driveway trying to do this...
Don't forget to do it in the dark on the worst weather day of the year!
@@MongooseTacticoolhad this exactly not too long ago.
I want this guy to do all the engine mounts on my xc70. This looks like a $1500 fix at my place.
Yeh, been all day on the back lower mount, mine must be a special Volvo , 14mm bottom bolt !! and not the same amount of room , used a crowbar and wooden wedges to get the socket located ! Good video.
Awesome clip. It's about time we get more these kind of videos from FCP Euro.
Jay, you are truly a master mechanic. Your videos give me the additional en(courage)ment to do jobs that I would have normally taken to my mechanic. I actually just finished replacing all four mounts on my 1999 S70. Unfortunately, due to limited clearances, the extraction and replacement of the lower front and rear mounts on the P80 platform vehicles requires the removal of the engine mount brackets and mounts together. This takes considerably more time, effort and swearing than shown in your crisp and informative video, but I persevered, muttering all the time WWJD (what would Jay do). Anyway, I just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks again for your great parts, service and extremely helpful and informative videos. FCP Euro is the best!
Appreciate the kind words, and glad Jay is able to give you the right amount of info and calmness to encourage tackling a job like this on your own! We are here to support the DIY community and love to hear it's appreciated and helps out our customers.
When the lower right mount near the crank goes bad, the rubber becomes detached from the plate (it should be vulcanised to the plate). This happened when I lowered the front of the subframe to replace the transmission solenoids: the engine shifted to the right and broke the lower right engine mount.
The right lower bolt may be hard to access with a 1/2" ratchet because of the CV joint. Use a short socket, or remove the axle. The bolts may also be very hard to turn, unless some oil leaked on the mount which will preserve the bolts from corrosion.
Peppermint hello there! Apart from transmission and upper mount, how to diagnose a bad engine mount? Thanx
Removing an axle to remove an engine mount bolt bolt is pretty extreme.
I've just ordered all these parts for my Volvo S60 d5 2003
it will probably take me a month to do it but at least it will get done and thank you for a brilliant video😎
As long as the job gets done in the end, that's all that matters! Glad we were able to help, and good luck on the install.
I've finished fitting them today😄
Hmm, I've got the same model. Gonna be doing this in the next couple of months. :D This video is beyond helpful. :D
Sold my car after fixing it
Sick of repairs lol
And poor diesel mpg
@@bboyzagy Really glad you found the video helpful! Good luck with the repair!
Great video. Please wear your safety glass when doing those repairs.
Just a helpful note to other 2007 V70 2.5T owners - the top nut on the rear mount can easily be assessed through the top of the engine bay with a couple extensions, but you will need to remove the cross brace.
Also i highly recommend securing/tightening the front, side, and transmission mounts and moving the jack back slightly before attempting the rear. It'll make it much easier to get it out.
Great notes!
I see your eyes focused elsewhere while you are zero'd in on the feel of it ! Experience counts !!
Thanks for this vid. I'm currently waiting on these parts to be delivered. I was just gonna wing it but this vid shines some light on the process.
You're welcome!
At time mark 9:55 you mention getting new bolts. Can you say what they are (M# and length) please? Also, besides the frnt mount, are there any topside mounts that need to be loosened/unbolted to do the front (under crank pulley) and front/rear lower mounts? It would also be helpful it you showed where you supported the engine on the pan -- I assume you did it along a sidewall... I was also considering using a fender engine support since I will be doing this on the ground -- any pros/cons?
This video helped me tremendously except for the lower back mount. I have a s80 T6 and it looks like the whole subframe has to go out to get anywhere near it. I gave up on that one for now.
For the front mount I had to lower the entire bridge onto the hydraulic strut to get enough space to place the front mount.
Awesome video! I always order parts from FCP Euro as great prices and lifetime free replacement on parts. Thanks alot!
very nice video my friend. strait and to the point. no horse shitting around.
I would use a torque wrench
What is the diagonal wire for on the front and rear engine mounts? I noticed that they are left on. Is that correct? I thought maybe they were to keep compression on the mounts before they are installed
Question please. What's the torque setting for the bolts securing the cross bar and upper engine mount? I ask because I don't have air tools so will be doing the replacement by hand. Thanks.
He makes it look so easy 😂
Do the bolts need to have a certain torque, and should any coating be applied to the bolts as some people were talking about?
Also, would replacing only the upper engine mount possibly fix vibration in the cabin, or would you recommend replacing all of the mounts at the same time? I know that replacing all of the mounts is probably better, but if I can keep work to a minimum but still fix the vibration, since I'm not super mechanically inclined, it would be great if replacing just the upper mount might solve the issue. At least I would try replacing that mount first.
I would try not to be too optimistic with that idea, and if it doesn't work, I can attempt to replace the other mounts someday. (Might be a cool if frustrating/scary learning experience) Also, perhaps replacing only one mount isn't good for the lifespan of that mount if the other ones are worn out and put too much work on the new mount.
I can see myself takin an hr on 1 bolt 😆 thnks 😆
thanks to you guys, 1hr done!
Awesome, Dohe 4sho! Happy to help!
Great vid. On the top mount, however, I found it much easier to replace the top mount by only removing the coil covers and sliding them off to the side. If no power tools, have a breaker bar. I got to one nut that was in there tight.
now THATS A MECHANIC!!
Excellent tutorial as always
Great Video, You guys Rock.
what is a safe spot to support the engine and transmission when attempting to remove the front lower mounts? I noticed Jay is using a 4x4 piece of wood to distribute the weight to avoid damaging vital parts, I assume? And how much "supporting" are we talking about here?
U recommend having extra bolts on hand for when they snap off, but there are no bolts in the kit you post. What bolts should I add to the parts? Thanks
My upper engine mount was completely broken. Should I expect the other mounts to be broken as well, or just change the upper and leave it at that?
It's advisable to look at them all.
Can you do a 2004 s60 2.5T ENGINE REMOVAL!?
Your videos are great! Truly helpful. Replaced my upper engine mount, no problem. The lower engine mount near timing belt is another story. Without a lift, it’s rather difficult. I still haven’t figured out how to get the bolts off the base of the mount. There’s no room for an impact wrench & using a manual wrench requires the strength of 6 gorillas or dynamite to remove them. Got any suggestions besides going to a garage?
You will never get an impact wrench on those. You simply need to use more torque. My suggestion would be a pipe over the end of the wrench, or buy a longer wrench.
I've just got the rear mount left to do. Shall I slacken all the other first to allow engine to lift ?
I have the Haynes manual, I can post some of the bolt torque specs here. The weird thing is that they don't include the hydraulic mounts in the instructions. Just the rubber ones , so they must've forgotten
I saw some thick liquid on the engine mout the one thats under the coolant reservoir. Can you tell me if this is a problem ?
Could weight shift/ clunking on bumps be a symptom of bad rear lower and front lower engine mount/pads? I'm about to replace those in the next week as everything else has been rebuilt/replaced on the suspension and both top mount and passenger mount have been replaced. I feel heavy vibrations, weight shift, clunks on sharp bumps right under the steering wheel where the rear mount is. Everything on my car is brand new/rebuilt except these two mounts..they have been overlooked and the car is at 200,000 miles now. Other mounts seem to have failed very soon after they have been replaced, within 5-10 thousand miles which makes me think there is a problem with the other two mounts. The engine seems to be down in the bay a half inch or so.
The bolt to the rear lower mount is a 14mm, but what bolt would I search for if buying an extra one?
I think I made a mistake. Not only did I support the engine, but I raised it by 1-2 centimeters. Can this cause problems with vacuum mounts? I thought it would be necessary to lift the engine because it pushed down the mount. But by lifting the engine the vacuum mounts did not "stretch" or something wrong?
I removed the fan and access from the top is wide open for the front mount, for those old farts like me who don't want to get under the car.
Great Info!
I have a 2009 Volvo S60
Had aligned 3 times.
The left front inner 1"-1 1/2" of tire is getting ground away.
Last Check I had the shop inspect for any thing broken, bent or missing. Nothing Found
Any Thoughts where I can look.
Subframe bushes or wishbone
Didn't your car have a plastic skid plate/cover that had to be removed from underneath before you could get to the transmission torque mount? I have a v70 so it might be different but all of the other parts look the same.
Thanks for the wall through!
Absolute great video
So in theory if I unbolt all those mounts with the engine supported from above, unmount the power steering rack and control arms, I can drop my bent subframe? 04 XC70 AWD. Is if best to support the car front under the bumper rail with frond bumper removed?
That is correct!
@@fcpeuro side note, right front wheel hit a curb, passenger air bag went off. If I replace the dash/airbag, impact sensor, and put in a new SRS Control module, do I still need expensive VIDA reprogramming? IS that something I can do on my own with the VIDA software? How do I know if the seatbelt tensioner fired too? Car only cost me $1500 so it's only worth fixing if I can do most all work my self.
@@JnJShiffler You really need to find a Volvo blog and ask questions there. This thread is about engine mounts. Google is your friend.
I normally replace the top engine torque mount without removing the strut brace
I have a 2004 S60 2.5t and I went over a terrible bump last week, now it’s riding terribly. My passenger seat shakes while I drive, the entire front, even my wheel, and it cocks to the right. Any suggestions? I want some advice before I go to a mechanic and pay an arm and a leg. I’m assuming it’s the engine mounts, maybe a bad axle now, perhaps struts as well, I’m not very car savvy so please, help.
I presume this was an axle issue? Exact same issue for me. I replaced the shock, control arm and spring and it made no difference
Just completed the upper on my 2006 s60. Both bolts were 18mm, and my anchor bolts were 13mm. 🤷🏼♂
can i lose power/boost if one of the bottom active engine mounts are leaking?
Good freaking LUCK getting that passenger mount off without a lift. The bolt closer to the rear wheels is torqued so damn tight and the space is so small that nothing more than a flat wrench will fit, you can get get any torque on it while on the ground and you can't fit a breaker bar in the space. You will most definitely need a lift. I didn't even try to do the two bulbus mounts, but I don't imagine that would have been easy. The upper mount and the Trans tourqe mount were a breeze, though 😂
Nice job--thank you.
You're welcome, Peter!
Thanks for video just bought a 2002 s60 i noticed a litlle vibration plus when i shur engine off i notice it doesn't shut off smoothly..what do u recommend?
jonathanmorales Morales maybe this is too late but i have the same issue with my s60 from 2001 2.4i. I did alot of research and all the Symptoms indicate a worn flywheel. Try to press the clutch when shutting off, it should improve. If it does und it is the flywheel.
Are the main two mounts flexible enough to raise the front and only replace it without touching the rear?
Just watched this, and I really don't know why. I need to see a 960 video. Heh! But boy, Volvo didn't make it easy on several of these, did they?
Having a lift to gain easy access is super to have....which I do not!
I know there is some places that rent a rack. When I visited my parents near Milwaukee Wi...there is a place that has about 8 bays you and can rent.
Mark Moffatt that is so cool and definitely will make the job easier.
Great video - keep ‘em comin’! What size/brand is your swivel that you used for the rear mount? I just wasted an hour trying to get a typical 3/8 swivel connected to a 14mm socket up there at the right angle and ended up losing my mind. Is it a 1/4”? I’m able to get the socket on the bolt but the sway bar is preventing me from getting it nice and flush so it slips.
Everything was 3/8 and a Snap-On swivel was used in the video.
Thank you. I the end I got it done by pushing my 1/4” socket and swivel joint to their absolute limit. Managed the screw up on the assembly though. I got impatient and did not take the time to fully align the bottom bolt to the underside of the mount so bolt went in x-threaded. Nice. Not a proud moment.
You're welcome!
Is this procedure applicable to the D5 diesel engines?
Great video! Congrats!
Thank you :)
Everything is same, except one different front and back engine mounts are vaccum mounts
Hi, the title mentions the C70 but the description doesn't, are these mounts all in the same places on the 2001 C70?
Been wondering about that crossbar that is hooked up to both sides and to the top engine mount, does that crossbar have bushings or anything that need to be replaced? I can move mine forward and backwards really easily.
How did you cover the holes where the headlight wipers used to be? I've removed mine but couldn't find a part to fill an 04 s60.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162309147893
You should be able to get different colours
Will I need to drop the drive shaft to change the rear mount on my AWD model?
What swivel socket is that being used on the rear mount bolt.? It seems to be magnetic and holds its position. I need one like that.
Hey guys. How can I tell if my rear mount is bad? Will the wire around it be loose? Or is that normal after torque.
Do you have to Jack the engine to do the one in top of the engine?
Great work you really know your Stuff.
How many Motor Mounts is on Volvo S60 2002?
What's the cost to fix motor mounts on
S60 Volvo 2002?
How long will it take to fix the motor mounts?
Thanks, sunflowers2925! There are a total of 5 mounts for the engine/transmission on a Volvo s60. You can read more about it here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
And here: blog.fcpeuro.com/replacing-the-front-rear-engine-mounts-on-a-2001-volvo-s60-t5
Super cool video entry
I can’t help but feel like these mounts should have been installed in a different order
What’s it usually cost to have all these replaced by a mechanic shop? A good estimate?
Probably around $400.
How do you secure the right torque on the bolts when you use your air impact wrench??
Thats easy - You just count the ugga dugga's.
You don't. People who use them pretend they know how to count uga's... but they don't.
On point - nice! Thank you
what took you so long to post this video, i just did all of mine on a 2005 xc70 and what a pain. the only info i could find said to remove the front fans to do the front mount.
I have a 2006 xc70 and the vibration is getting worse, particularly at acceleration. 30 mph it is tolerable. How long did it take you to swap everything out? 230k miles.
why didn't you remove the front and rear mounts first then the paas. side and top last...
What the tightening torque specs
The crossbar does not need to be removed to replace the upper mount.
are the front and rear bottom engine mounts the same or r they different???
You called the mount accessed through the passenger side wheel well the "front mount".You called the one under the radiator the "front mount" too. The one accessed through the wheel well is the side mount, right?
And you called it the "front mount" again (the passenger side one) when describing how to replace the front mount in front.
Thank you!
How similar is this process on a 2012 S60?
How long does this take
HELP. 2004 XC70 Front impact sensors. * Please tell me the location. * This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP
This is the WRONG place to ask that question.
What sort of indications do you get that tells me the mounts need changing? Is there any way to test the quality of the engine mounts?
I have a 2007 XC70 2.5T that shakes when under load at between 90 -100 kph.
Excessive vibrations and engine movement is usually caused by a worn engine mount.
Are you using 3/8 inch drive?
For those who are wondering: don't use 1/4- you'll probably break it. Don't use 1/2 either- it doesn't fit.
Is this the same on the s60 r
Салам алейкум! Вольво хс70 2001 г, замена всех ремней и роликов можно показать мануал. I m from Kazakhstan, Taraz.
How many engine mounts are there for 2008 XC90
pls do a S40 engine mount replacement 👍🏽
We can add that to the list!
my vovlo v70 2004r i am change all . nonstop vibration why?
You replaced all the engine mounts and it is still shaking? Is your engine running properly? Do you have all the mounts torqued properly?
@@fcpeuro so I replaced all 4 engine mounts, 2 pnematic items, 1 pillow from the right side, and 1 from the front bottom when I dismantle the bottom one, not pnematical! this car stops vibrating, I don't know what's going on? engine works properly.
@@fcpeuroexactly that you would understand me, when I download the hello from your video in 5.30min then the vibration problem disappears. but I can't drive without this part.
Hey my fiend , I’m in a process of buying a 2005 Cx90 T6 , it has a high milege and it doesn’t start , the owner says the mechanics couldn’t put it on time , the price Is good 700 us. Lol I really wanna buy it
Sounds like a bit of a project! Check and make sure there is no engine damage from a possible timing failure. Also that transmission can be a bit problematic as well.
how to diagnose front and rear engine mounts are gone bad ?
You'll want to look for signs of deterioration in the bushing, you'll mainly notice this from cracks within the bushing of the mount. You can also tell from excessive engine vibration and movement.