You are the most patient person I know! Mine went out om my 2014 F-150 King Ranch 4x4, thank God I had 2100 miles left on my extended warranty!! Dealer charge would have been $2500 which $1706 was labor!
Absolutely, Hands Down the best how-to video on this topic. I got the dash and plenum box out of my 2014 F150 STX with this video in under 3.5 hours! Great tutorial and thank you for the video!
I am overwhelmed with just watching this. I can't believe the way you have to get to the blower. I hope I never have to go this far. There is no way I will take the dash off. I would find my own way to get at these things. I don't care. I'll find a way.
Awesome video! I really appreciate the detail to help the rest of us who need to do this. Thank you. And good job staying calm. I'm pretty sure I'll be using alot more colorful language when I attempt this on my own truck.
And that's the way to do an instructional video. Perfect. You included every little detail and didn't skip over anything. TH-camrs should watch this video to learn how its done.
If I remember correctly when you pull the face off of the radio, you must first pry out the USB and AUX port little black surround and there is a 7 mm bolt hidden back there, radio face will come right out after that, good vid tho👍🏼
You're a life saver. The only video on TH-cam that shows the complete removal of the dash and evaporator with the flow through consoles which has an extra duct that makes it impossible to replace the driver's side blender actuator
Wow wow wow , thank you for your video sir , I need to get into the dash and replace something and there’s no video I could really find of someone doing this. seems like something I can do just not sure if I want to go through with it, lol
Fantastic video - this really helped me overcome a lot of the challenges I was having replacing a blend actuator. Thanks for the time you put in to make this happen!
Quick question about steering wheel does it have to come out to clear dash? Pull bolt and separate it at the steering center shaft ? Thanks for the video bro 🎉
thank you so much , you saved me about $2.400.00 labor costs . was one bitch of a job but because of this video was able to do it myself.without the go fund me page,That was a much bigger savings then the tax reform legislation bill turned out to be for us.
When I did mine I took a carpet knife and cut the carpeting where the rear ducting attaches to the HVAC box. Makes moving carpeting easier. And when your done nobody will ever see it.
You should re-upload this video titled how to remove the dash as well! Finding this video earlier would have saved me a lot of time! Thanks for posting!
Awesome job I tip my hat to you my friend I’m facing that ordeal .but the video makes me wanna get to it Thanks and again I say awesome job. GOD BLESS YOU MY FRIEND. PAPA ROG
wow! great video! have to do my heater core and there is also a motorized switch that moves the paddle for ac/defrost and floor heat that broke. Glad i waited to do it all at once...soon
Did this yesterday and did take most of the day. If you are look for replacement screws you can try sheet metal screws. #10 by 3/4 inch. Without them it would have been a show stopper.
Awesome video! Thank you very much. Quick question, I’m in the process of doing this because I saw Freon leaking with a UV light, and the leak was on the water where it’s dripping under the truck. I was told I need to change the evaporator, what do you think? Thank you very much. Don’t want to swap it out and not being the problem.
Great video. I'm about to tackle this in my 2013.The local stealership just quoted me $3200.00 in labor to replace the Evaporator core, NOT including the cost of the evaporator core itself...
Im sure you half way there youll say damm i wish i had pay lol im an ac technician in puerto rico this kind of job goes for 650 including the parts and 3 month of waranty the thing is that as the technician i only recieve $60 a day so this shows how under pay we are and how over charge in the usa.. i will say this is a maybe 1000 dolar job because of how hard and carefull you must be
I just purchased a Premier Care Ford ESP for my 2012 F150 online for $2590.00 and the dealer just told me my evaporator is bad and it's covered under the warranty. This repair just paid for the cost of the warranty and still have 5 yrs/48k left to go. So Ford will lose money on this warranty for sure.
First off thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I am about to do the same thing to my 2013 F150 FX4 with the same console.. Any advice you recommend other than what is in the video? Any short cuts you can think of you learned after the fact? Any unnecessary steps that are in the workshop manual? Any speciality tools required? What size screws and type should I use to reassemble the evaporations core housing? How many screws were used approximately? Did you follow torque specs to reassemble? Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.
@jason kramer, i just dove into this project out of refusal to pay what the dealership was wanting for repairs. "Most" of the tools that were used were basic tools. If you have access to an air wrench, you will save tons of time there. Make sure, after disconnecting the steering wheel, to keep it from spinning. Otherwise you will be buying a clockspring also.... not a cheap part either. Specialty tools needed will be an a/c vacuum pump and a set of guages. These can be borrowed from your local autozone or maybe the like. They will "charge" you for these tools but, upon return your money is reimbursed. It will take a few days for them to credit your card back but you atleast get that back. Other than that just follow the steps in reverse order from the vid and you should be set. I used no torque specs at all. Just made sure everything felt nice and snug. I have had no issues.
@@jasonkramer6169 the only time saving that i could think of would be if the winshield needed to be replaced. Id have that thing pulled and then reinstall new after i did this project. Other than that every step i know is in the vid. I did not have a manual so i have no idea what thier steps are. Use electrical tape at the end of your socket to wedge the dash bolts in the socket so that they do not fall and helps aid in reinstall. Thats all i can think of. Hope that helps.
@@fletch1267 Thank you. When you separated the housing was there any other parts that should be replaced? I know I will do the heater core. At any point did you have to backtrack to fix anything?
@Fletch…I have a question, did you change the evaporator because of coolant smell and steam from vents? If so that’s my problem. Couple people said heater core when I mentioned the water sound and the smell. I guess either way I gotta do everything you did to get to both. Just wanna compare issues before I dive into it. Thanks in advance and this is a great video too.
Hey Douglas. Negative. I had a Freon leak in the evaporator core. The smell of oil, freon and no cold a/c was my tell. You def sound like a heater core issue.
@@fletch1267 thanks so much for replying to me. Just one more thing I didn’t mention…I still have cold ac and heat. Forgot to mention that. Anyway sorry for treating you like a Ford certified mechanic lol. Thanks again
@Douglas Hardy. Sounds like you may have a small leak on the heater core which is still allowing you to have heat. If you are getting that sweet antifreeze smell then you’ll probably not want wait too long. I have had those heater cores fail all at once and dump hot antifreeze inside the cab. Hope that helps.
how did u get a quick release connector in there behind the heater hoses. i mean seriously theres a half an inch to work with i had to cut them jokers off after fighting them for 30 minutes. what a joke
I saw a youtube that a guy open the glove box , sliced an opening on the airbox plastic , exposed the evaprator core and just hosed it out , slick as shit , none of this complete tear out this guy did
I was hoping to get a look at the design of where the evaporator drain meets the firewall because I have a water leak there...unfortuanately I couldn't see it in the video. Is it just a plastic flange pressed in place with the foam rubber washer?
Lo siento. Mi espanol no es bueno. I think you are asking me for the part number to the evaporator temperature sensor. I do not recall a temp sensor but it has been several years since I did this project. I can’t recall any part numbers but a local part store should be able to help look up what you need for your vehicles year. Sorry I’m no more help than that. Happy you found the video helpful.
I’m smelling coolant inside the cab, so thanks for giving me a heads up on such a huge task. Is it possible to remove heater core without removing the whole assembly?
im thinking about cutting a hole through the plastic then gluing it back but idk it that will give me access to the evap. it looks like you have to pull it upward
and you did it one handed :) LOL ! ford and their infinite wisdom...... you would think they would have improved on their design by now, but I got a 2018 f150 and its the same s*****
Good thing it wasn't a dodge, that wire would be wrapped around the whole cab, and a crevices harness would break in half when you went to pull on the tab
First, thank you! This is a GREAT video! I have one question. Did the center instrument panel need to come out or could the assembled dash be pulled back?
Thank you Brian. I will say this. I'd never pulled a dash before so i'm sure there are unecessary steps along the way. However, it "may" be difficult to unplug some of the wiring. Sorry i cant be of more help than that. But i can say i have no rattles and all is working fine. Be extra cautious not to let steering wheel free spin when disconnected. I did have to replace my clockspring due to that.
Great video! Some small changes to mine... Lots of f bombs. Mine has a column shifter not floor shifter.. and above that terrible floor wire on mine was the floor duct for the back seats that flow out under the driver seats instead of the center council... Lots of fun.. hoping it goes back together ok.
Fletch1 did you drain your radiator coolant to replace the part? I found the service manual and I believe it said to do that but I am thinking it was mainly talking about the heater core replacement. Just wanted to make sure.
Another question... How did you get the bolts out up by the windshield once loosened and then put back in when repaired. Also the bolts for dash on each side by the pillars... you had extensions.. so how did you retrieve bolts and put back without dropping them all over the place....
They were bolt on. I do recall having to adjust the angle of the new core tubes so that the connections would match up. Just be careful not to kink them.
Freon smell on the interior, a/c not blowing cold. Thats really about all there was. I did run a die test and found no visible leaks. But the smell of freon is probably the biggest indicator.
Anyone have an idea how to remove the dash on a 2013 F150 5.0 Screw? Still have a faulty blend door and the clicking noise is coming from under the top dash behind the vents to the left of the stereo bezel panel. Already replaced the blend door actuator behind the stereo and still didn't fix my problem. Got great heat and cold air, just makes the annoying loud clicking noise when I switch it.
@@fletch1267 did you see that probe in the evap core. It’s a temp sensor. Ford doesn’t sell that part unless you buy the whole plenum air box. Mine is bad on my truck. Hopefully someone will make and sell this part so people don’t have to buy the whole assembly
jason kramer I didn’t have to remove the front seats, windshield, first I disconnected all the harness from the driver, passenger side, then removed bolts holding the glove compartment, stereo, under the steering wheel, brake/hood latch, one bolt under the steering then all the bolts supporting the dashboard, pulled the dash n let it sit on the seats, then removed the bolts that support the ac/heater box, took it out replaced the ac core.
One more reasons why Fords suck , my 2009 F150 is a pile of rust , my rockers are gone , my doors are rusting , it is all over the place , the cables all broke on the rear doors , the power windows go down but will not go up , the spark plugs get stuck in engine , the coils do not last and so many more things just suck about this truck , never again with a Ford , looking at Toyota's and I am a Union guy
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Best video for this repair
You are the most patient person I know! Mine went out om my 2014 F-150 King Ranch 4x4, thank God I had 2100 miles left on my extended warranty!! Dealer charge would have been $2500 which $1706 was labor!
Glad you didn’t have to go through it.
Great job, thank you
Thank you
Absolutely, Hands Down the best how-to video on this topic. I got the dash and plenum box out of my 2014 F150 STX with this video in under 3.5 hours! Great tutorial and thank you for the video!
Very happy to hear it helped.
This is an exceptional video and I am so grateful. About halfway through this hell right now lol.
Thank you sr!!!!!
Automotive engineers definitely have a sick sense of humor!
Beautifully put together my man! I wish everybody was as concise and to the point as you!!
I too suffer from a bad evap core. Thank you so much for posting this extremely helpful video to help me through the job! 2 thumbs up!
Glad it helped!!!
This helped a lot
I am overwhelmed with just watching this. I can't believe the way you have to get to the blower. I hope I never have to go this far. There is no way I will take the dash off. I would find my own way to get at these things. I don't care. I'll find a way.
I’m pretty sure you are the only person on the internet that has given a step by step like this. I can’t thank you enough!
Hope it helps.
Absolutely 💯 correct, this made my life so much easier, thanks a bunch!!
Awesome video! I really appreciate the detail to help the rest of us who need to do this. Thank you. And good job staying calm. I'm pretty sure I'll be using alot more colorful language when I attempt this on my own truck.
And that's the way to do an instructional video. Perfect. You included every little detail and didn't skip over anything. TH-camrs should watch this video to learn how its done.
Very helpful video.. thank you very much
Glad it helped.
Bless your heart man. I'm tearing up seeing all this. Much respect for going through all that.
You are a gentleman sir. I canʻt thank you enough. You have saved me at least a couple of hours and much aggravation.
Glad to hear it helped you out.
If I remember correctly when you pull the face off of the radio, you must first pry out the USB and AUX port little black surround and there is a 7 mm bolt hidden back there, radio face will come right out after that, good vid tho👍🏼
You're a life saver. The only video on TH-cam that shows the complete removal of the dash and evaporator with the flow through consoles which has an extra duct that makes it impossible to replace the driver's side blender actuator
Glad it helps. I was hoping my misery could make it a little less painful for the next guy lol.
Not impossible. Cut the duct and then glue it back together.
Excellent video and your commentary/sense of humor is hilarious. Well done!
Wow wow wow , thank you for your video sir , I need to get into the dash and replace something and there’s no video I could really find of someone doing this. seems like something I can do just not sure if I want to go through with it, lol
Fantastic video - this really helped me overcome a lot of the challenges I was having replacing a blend actuator. Thanks for the time you put in to make this happen!
Glad it helped!
@@fletch1267 how did you remove the 2 hoses under the hood
Perfect ending: "ill probably cry tonight when I try to go to sleep" 😂😂👍👌
Thank you so much big bro 👊🏽
Glad it helped bud.
Thanks for the video, very helpful
What a great video... You are on point with every move!!!!
Excellent video, VERY informative. Need to dive into my '11 as well for a blendor door jammed.
Quick question about steering wheel does it have to come out to clear dash? Pull bolt and separate it at the steering center shaft ? Thanks for the video bro 🎉
Im pretty sure its a must. Just remember dont let the wheel free spin or youll break the clockspring.
thank you so much , you saved me about $2.400.00 labor costs . was one bitch of a job but because of this video was able to do it myself.without the go fund me page,That was a much bigger savings then the tax reform legislation bill turned out to be for us.
Awesome! Glad it helped and saved you MONEY!!!
Thank you..........thank you.........thank you........ Great video.
Great job! Very helpful!
Thanks for the vid, I have a feeling this is why my AC isn’t cooling, but the refrigerant is full and my cab smells like refrigerant
Thanks man. Great video! Saved me some headache.
Im crying watching this video knowing damn well I have to do this today😢😢
When I did mine I took a carpet knife and cut the carpeting where the rear ducting attaches to the HVAC box. Makes moving carpeting easier. And when your done nobody will ever see it.
Good job. Thanks for posting
Thanks for video.. how did you remove heater hoses?
Super video,I hope you remembered how to put it back together.Loved it.
That was part of the reason i made the video. Could play it back during reassembly. 😉
You should re-upload this video titled how to remove the dash as well! Finding this video earlier would have saved me a lot of time! Thanks for posting!
Done
Good call. I should have looked for a video before tearing into my truck. Oh well. I took extra stuff apart lol
@@Morgan-cn5fk Yeah I took sooo much stuff apart that I didn't need to as well.
Just saved me a few days. Thank you!
Glad it eased your suffering!
Awesome job I tip my hat to you my friend I’m facing that ordeal .but the video makes me wanna get to it Thanks and again I say awesome job. GOD BLESS YOU MY FRIEND.
PAPA ROG
Hope it makes it a little easier for you and good luck.
Thank you very much...we need more people like you!!! I have to do that ....And I am sorry for myself!!!
I feel your pain. Hope this vid eases the pain.
wow! great video! have to do my heater core and there is also a motorized switch that moves the paddle for ac/defrost and floor heat that broke. Glad i waited to do it all at once...soon
Where does wire that goes under duct work go
Did this yesterday and did take most of the day. If you are look for replacement screws you can try sheet metal screws. #10 by 3/4 inch. Without them it would have been a show stopper.
Excellent work brother!
Awesome video! Thank you very much. Quick question, I’m in the process of doing this because I saw Freon leaking with a UV light, and the leak was on the water where it’s dripping under the truck. I was told I need to change the evaporator, what do you think? Thank you very much. Don’t want to swap it out and not being the problem.
Yes that’s a leaking evap core for sure sir
@@bryanr.barrett572 it sure was. Thanks a lot. Been running ice cold ac since then.
Greatest video overalls ever in details thank you sir
Great video. I'm about to tackle this in my 2013.The local stealership just quoted me $3200.00 in labor to replace the Evaporator core, NOT including the cost of the evaporator core itself...
Hope it helps Russ. Good luck to you
Im sure you half way there youll say damm i wish i had pay lol im an ac technician in puerto rico this kind of job goes for 650 including the parts and 3 month of waranty the thing is that as the technician i only recieve $60 a day so this shows how under pay we are and how over charge in the usa.. i will say this is a maybe 1000 dolar job because of how hard and carefull you must be
@@michaelsegarra2709 Do you want to come to Kansas City for a "working vacation" and make a $1,000.00...
I just purchased a Premier Care Ford ESP for my 2012 F150 online for $2590.00 and the dealer just told me my evaporator is bad and it's covered under the warranty. This repair just paid for the cost of the warranty and still have 5 yrs/48k left to go. So Ford will lose money on this warranty for sure.
First off thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.
I am about to do the same thing to my 2013 F150 FX4 with the same console.. Any advice you recommend other than what is in the video? Any short cuts you can think of you learned after the fact? Any unnecessary steps that are in the workshop manual? Any speciality tools required? What size screws and type should I use to reassemble the evaporations core housing? How many screws were used approximately? Did you follow torque specs to reassemble?
Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.
@jason kramer, i just dove into this project out of refusal to pay what the dealership was wanting for repairs. "Most" of the tools that were used were basic tools. If you have access to an air wrench, you will save tons of time there. Make sure, after disconnecting the steering wheel, to keep it from spinning. Otherwise you will be buying a clockspring also.... not a cheap part either.
Specialty tools needed will be an a/c vacuum pump and a set of guages. These can be borrowed from your local autozone or maybe the like. They will "charge" you for these tools but, upon return your money is reimbursed. It will take a few days for them to credit your card back but you atleast get that back. Other than that just follow the steps in reverse order from the vid and you should be set. I used no torque specs at all. Just made sure everything felt nice and snug. I have had no issues.
@@fletch1267 Any time saving tips you can share? Any unnecessary steps in the workshop manual that can be skipped?
@@jasonkramer6169 the only time saving that i could think of would be if the winshield needed to be replaced. Id have that thing pulled and then reinstall new after i did this project. Other than that every step i know is in the vid. I did not have a manual so i have no idea what thier steps are. Use electrical tape at the end of your socket to wedge the dash bolts in the socket so that they do not fall and helps aid in reinstall. Thats all i can think of. Hope that helps.
@@fletch1267 Thank you. When you separated the housing was there any other parts that should be replaced? I know I will do the heater core. At any point did you have to backtrack to fix anything?
@@jasonkramer6169 negative. The only thing i needed for the housing were the extra 8mm bolts. Think it was like 10 or so.
Thank you so much man for the video
You are welcome. Hope it saved you some misery. Haha.
Yes it did it saved a ton of misery
@Fletch…I have a question, did you change the evaporator because of coolant smell and steam from vents? If so that’s my problem. Couple people said heater core when I mentioned the water sound and the smell. I guess either way I gotta do everything you did to get to both. Just wanna compare issues before I dive into it. Thanks in advance and this is a great video too.
Hey Douglas. Negative. I had a Freon leak in the evaporator core. The smell of oil, freon and no cold a/c was my tell. You def sound like a heater core issue.
@@fletch1267 thanks so much for replying to me. Just one more thing I didn’t mention…I still have cold ac and heat. Forgot to mention that. Anyway sorry for treating you like a Ford certified mechanic lol. Thanks again
@Douglas Hardy. Sounds like you may have a small leak on the heater core which is still allowing you to have heat. If you are getting that sweet antifreeze smell then you’ll probably not want wait too long. I have had those heater cores fail all at once and dump hot antifreeze inside the cab. Hope that helps.
@@fletch1267 thanks for the info and the replies. It was very helpful.
Your the man !!!!
I really like my f150 but have to admit, Toyota is simpler and better.
how did u get a quick release connector in there behind the heater hoses. i mean seriously theres a half an inch to work with i had to cut them jokers off after fighting them for 30 minutes. what a joke
I saw a youtube that a guy open the glove box , sliced an opening on the airbox plastic , exposed the evaprator core and just hosed it out , slick as shit , none of this complete tear out this guy did
This core, unfortunately, had to be replaced. Definitely sounds easier for a cleaning though.
THANK YOU! You gave me hope that I COULD do it....but F that S I'm paying a pro. GREAT VIDEO!!
Lol. If i'd had the money. I'd done the same! Haha.
Im about to do that also on my 2014 KR ... sucks to take out the whole dash. Btw...thanks for all the tips!
32:38
I was hoping to get a look at the design of where the evaporator drain meets the firewall because I have a water leak there...unfortuanately I couldn't see it in the video. Is it just a plastic flange pressed in place with the foam rubber washer?
Wish I could recall and help you out. Been too long I don’t quite remember. Sorry Matthew.
Exelente me sirvió de mucho, sabes el número de parte del sensor de temperatura evaporador?
Lo siento. Mi espanol no es bueno. I think you are asking me for the part number to the evaporator temperature sensor. I do not recall a temp sensor but it has been several years since I did this project. I can’t recall any part numbers but a local part store should be able to help look up what you need for your vehicles year. Sorry I’m no more help than that. Happy you found the video helpful.
Will there be a video on reinstalling the dash thank you for your pain
Just do all steps in reverse. Sorry. I was ready to be done. Ha
Ford and their infinite wisdom
😂😂😂😂😂😂 LMFAO That comment was a real bonus !!!!!
I’m smelling coolant inside the cab, so thanks for giving me a heads up on such a huge task. Is it possible to remove heater core without removing the whole assembly?
If it is I’m not aware.
im thinking about cutting a hole through the plastic then gluing it back but idk it that will give me access to the evap. it looks like you have to pull it upward
and you did it one handed :) LOL ! ford and their infinite wisdom...... you would think they would have improved on their design by now, but I got a 2018 f150 and its the same s*****
Your Awesome thanks for the video
Hope it helps
Good thing it wasn't a dodge, that wire would be wrapped around the whole cab, and a crevices harness would break in half when you went to pull on the tab
First, thank you! This is a GREAT video! I have one question. Did the center instrument panel need to come out or could the assembled dash be pulled back?
Thank you Brian. I will say this. I'd never pulled a dash before so i'm sure there are unecessary steps along the way. However, it "may" be difficult to unplug some of the wiring. Sorry i cant be of more help than that. But i can say i have no rattles and all is working fine. Be extra cautious not to let steering wheel free spin when disconnected. I did have to replace my clockspring due to that.
@@fletch1267 Awesome! Thanks for the reply and the tip.
Great video! Some small changes to mine... Lots of f bombs. Mine has a column shifter not floor shifter.. and above that terrible floor wire on mine was the floor duct for the back seats that flow out under the driver seats instead of the center council... Lots of fun.. hoping it goes back together ok.
I gotta ask. What was done with the 2 air bag plugs on the sides of the airbag? Just unplug and presto?
I beleive i unplugged the battery first. Then unplugged the airbag. Didnt want an accidental deployment.
Dude your awesome !!!!!
Fletch1 did you drain your radiator coolant to replace the part? I found the service manual and I believe it said to do that but I am thinking it was mainly talking about the heater core replacement. Just wanted to make sure.
I did not have to drain the antifreeze.
Is it the same Ford expiation in evaporator replacement?
Has your have A/C filter?
Did you get all that back together? If so, you are genuis, my friend!
A genius no, but i was able to get it all back together. That was the main reason for the video. So i could play it back for reassembly. 😉
Another question... How did you get the bolts out up by the windshield once loosened and then put back in when repaired. Also the bolts for dash on each side by the pillars... you had extensions.. so how did you retrieve bolts and put back without dropping them all over the place....
Take a piece of electrical tape and stick over your socket. It will hold the bolts tight so they dont fall off
So you are actually jamming yhe head of the bolt into the socket with the tape.
@@fletch1267 Thank you very much
Fletch 1, were the fittings to the evap core soldered or screw in style connections?
They were bolt on. I do recall having to adjust the angle of the new core tubes so that the connections would match up. Just be careful not to kink them.
@@fletch1267 thank you. So the line connections to and from the core are bolt on style around gaskets?
On my truck, yes they were. My connections were against the firewall on the passenger side and visible from under the hood.
What were the symptoms of this part failing?
Freon smell on the interior, a/c not blowing cold. Thats really about all there was. I did run a die test and found no visible leaks. But the smell of freon is probably the biggest indicator.
Damn, I have this same problem
Also they make tools for those tabs
Howd you determine to go after the Evap core?
Did a dye check witb no visible leaks found. And the big giveaway was the smell of freon/compressor oil inside the cab
Anyone have an idea how to remove the dash on a 2013 F150 5.0 Screw? Still have a faulty blend door and the clicking noise is coming from under the top dash behind the vents to the left of the stereo bezel panel. Already replaced the blend door actuator behind the stereo and still didn't fix my problem. Got great heat and cold air, just makes the annoying loud clicking noise when I switch it.
Is it a mode door?
Which brand evaporator did you buy?
Honestly cant remember. Think it was just the first one i was able to find locally.
Let me guess, fresh paint smell out of the vents? I have a PAG ac compressor oil bottle and it smells exactly like that...
Exactly!!!
holy crap i shouldve bought a 2009
Did you replace your heater core at the same time??? Just curious
I would recommend doing so as a preventative measure ... However, i was too broke at the time and could not afford to replace it. 😕
@@fletch1267 thanks... I am ordering both, thanks for the video
@@fletch1267 did you see that probe in the evap core. It’s a temp sensor. Ford doesn’t sell that part unless you buy the whole plenum air box. Mine is bad on my truck. Hopefully someone will make and sell this part so people don’t have to buy the whole assembly
I have a F150 2009 Lariat 5.4L 4x4 I assume mine would be similar? - Ford says 10 hours of work and wants $1100 in Labor!
Daniel Adam I replaced the ac evaporator core in my 2012 F-150, it took me 3hrs from start to finish, just spent $106 on the part and $30 on Freon
@Daniel adam. Im not sure about the 2009 model. I would guess if the dash looks the same then it is probably very close to the same.
@@luiseldewashington1768 What unnecessary steps did you skip to save time? What part number did you use? How did you complete it so fast?
jason kramer I didn’t have to remove the front seats, windshield, first I disconnected all the harness from the driver, passenger side, then removed bolts holding the glove compartment, stereo, under the steering wheel, brake/hood latch, one bolt under the steering then all the bolts supporting the dashboard, pulled the dash n let it sit on the seats, then removed the bolts that support the ac/heater box, took it out replaced the ac core.
One more reasons why Fords suck , my 2009 F150 is a pile of rust , my rockers are gone , my doors are rusting , it is all over the place , the cables all broke on the rear doors , the power windows go down but will not go up , the spark plugs get stuck in engine , the coils do not last and so many more things just suck about this truck , never again with a Ford , looking at Toyota's and I am a Union guy