Hmmm. Maybe that's the solution for my Wrenn castle class. It's had an issue with a loose driving wheel on one of the non insulated driving wheels for about 20 years! It just started derailing one day. I tried various unsuccessful fixes with superglue. They worked for a while but didn't last. Maybe loctite would've worked better. I must give it a try. The question of course is whether it holds up long term. Thanks for another cracking repair video.
For a real drive wheel ideally replace the axle and/or wheel. On a tender driven loco there is much less stress on the loco wheels as they are just being pushed so I think thread locker or glue will be fine. The other option might be flux and solder.
@@oobill I'll try it anyway - nothing to lose. As far as I can remember the problem is on the leading axle which is driven by the coupling rods rather than directly from the motor/worm drive. BTW, Are any of those R850 Flying Scotsman bodies/tenders available? I'd love to restore mine which I got for Christmas when I was 5 in 1969! and ruined with an appalling BR green paint job when I was about 10 😳☹
Did you do a video where you describe your layout? There seems to be a lot of interesting trackwork in a relatively small space - is it on an 8x4 board or bigger? Btw, I have a Hornby tender driven Flying Scotsman of which the engine is also v light and occasionally derails so I'll try adding some of those car wheel balancing weights inside the loco body to increase the down-force.
I would like to Get the Hornby schools class "Repton" in southern Green but I can't find one on Ebay also I have thought about getting 6 car transporter wagons plus two extra ones I have a vague idea of what I want to do with the two extra car transporters I plan on modifying them to carry two airfix Supermarine Spitfires or one Supermarine spitfire and one De Havilland Mosquito Fighter plane. Cheers.Lewis 👍🙂👌
I am really enjoying your videos and often have them on hand when performing my own maintenance. Can I ask you a couple of questions? I notice you use woodland scenics products, why do you use Molylube over the white grease? I like your tweezers can you tell me where you got them? Thanks for the great videos. Kind regards Adrian
Molygrease is great for ringfield motor gears. It has a lower viscosity than white grease and isn't so unsightly. I have been using white grease on worm gears recently though. Look up ESD-15 tweezers on Amazon.
Looks like a clone for Loctite 242 or 243, which is the blue one, designed to be dismantle-able with hand tools. Other Loctite thread lockers are available for more extreme environments, with the 'red' requiring 300 degrees of heat to dismantle, so probably not a good idea for your model loco!! (I've just bought some 243, which is a newer and more versatile version of the traditional 242, so it's all fresh in my mind!)
I watch your videos with interest very useful as i have a lot of older locos. some very good solutions to problems you can get with older locos PS i think you mean N class mogel as the N7 was a great eastern loco designed by A J Hill (a little pocket rocket used on the jass service out of liverpool st station)
I heard 'M7', the Southern 0-4-4T. Tri-ang made a very nice M7 model long before Hornby's recent offering. (Can't remember when Bill said this in the video, so I cannot confirm.)
I’d love to be able to say that I have the Patience to deal with that, but I’m afraid That’s the sort of project that after 3 hours goes into a box and onto a shelf to gather dust. 😶
Beautiful job; she looks lovely and nice to see the joint runnuing at the end.
Great video thanks for sharing, I've got a school's class locomotive Stowe in Southern livery, it got a smoke unit fitted, locomotive runs lovely, J
I bought one with screeching drive gears and your vud helped me pop the shell off
The masking tape what a brilliant way of keeping the wheels from moving, wish I had thought of that would of saved me hours, brilliant video
Another success. Wish you and u-tube were around when I had a railway’s
Great vid sir, keep your eyes out as these often go for a good discount
I find your videos so therapeutic!
Great job Bill,fantastic running loco.
I use small piece of alfoil with threadlocker. Helps to jam on tight.
Great job you have a lot of patience 😀👍
I do like the schools class. Just waiting for the new ones to come from Dapol in N gauge.
Top job Bill, that looked fiddly 😁
I wonder if a blob of solder on the back of the wheel would be enough to permanently lock it to the axel?
Absolute Beauty. Smoother than Smooth 👍🏻
Never had much success with threadlocker, and axles always ended up using superglue. Great video, as always
Another excellent video. So quiet and smooth on the layout. What’s next???? All best marc
Great video, thanks Bill
Hmmm. Maybe that's the solution for my Wrenn castle class. It's had an issue with a loose driving wheel on one of the non insulated driving wheels for about 20 years! It just started derailing one day. I tried various unsuccessful fixes with superglue. They worked for a while but didn't last. Maybe loctite would've worked better. I must give it a try. The question of course is whether it holds up long term. Thanks for another cracking repair video.
For a real drive wheel ideally replace the axle and/or wheel. On a tender driven loco there is much less stress on the loco wheels as they are just being pushed so I think thread locker or glue will be fine. The other option might be flux and solder.
@@oobill
I'll try it anyway - nothing to lose. As far as I can remember the problem is on the leading axle which is driven by the coupling rods rather than directly from the motor/worm drive. BTW, Are any of those R850 Flying Scotsman bodies/tenders available? I'd love to restore mine which I got for Christmas when I was 5 in 1969! and ruined with an appalling BR green paint job when I was about 10 😳☹
Did you do a video where you describe your layout? There seems to be a lot of interesting trackwork in a relatively small space - is it on an 8x4 board or bigger? Btw, I have a Hornby tender driven Flying Scotsman of which the engine is also v light and occasionally derails so I'll try adding some of those car wheel balancing weights inside the loco body to increase the down-force.
Slightly bigger job than usual, but it is running very well and quiet 😁
I would like to Get the Hornby schools class "Repton" in southern Green but I can't find one on Ebay also I have thought about getting 6 car transporter wagons plus two extra ones I have a vague idea of what I want to do with the two extra car transporters I plan on modifying them to carry two airfix Supermarine Spitfires or one Supermarine spitfire and one De Havilland Mosquito Fighter plane. Cheers.Lewis 👍🙂👌
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203475224444?hash=item2f6011877c:g:0-AAAOSwmbpgr3RL currently on ebay Lewis
@@danielholden-storey5107 thank you for the link Cheers and take care. 👍
He must have put a lot of force on that wheel to make it come loose.
Finally something Southern! 😁
I am really enjoying your videos and often have them on hand when performing my own maintenance. Can I ask you a couple of questions? I notice you use woodland scenics products, why do you use Molylube over the white grease? I like your tweezers can you tell me where you got them? Thanks for the great videos. Kind regards Adrian
Molygrease is great for ringfield motor gears. It has a lower viscosity than white grease and isn't so unsightly. I have been using white grease on worm gears recently though. Look up ESD-15 tweezers on Amazon.
Another great job. The subtitles have you using a “Monkey Brush”. 😂😂
Hi Bill, very enjoyable, is that the same as loctite? Looks good stuff, All the Best Brian
Looks like a clone for Loctite 242 or 243, which is the blue one, designed to be dismantle-able with hand tools. Other Loctite thread lockers are available for more extreme environments, with the 'red' requiring 300 degrees of heat to dismantle, so probably not a good idea for your model loco!! (I've just bought some 243, which is a newer and more versatile version of the traditional 242, so it's all fresh in my mind!)
I watch your videos with interest very useful as i have a lot of older locos. some very good solutions to problems you can get with older locos PS i think you mean N class mogel as the N7 was a great eastern loco designed by A J Hill (a little pocket rocket used on the jass service out of liverpool st station)
I heard 'M7', the Southern 0-4-4T. Tri-ang made a very nice M7 model long before Hornby's recent offering. (Can't remember when Bill said this in the video, so I cannot confirm.)
The owner is going to chuffed to bits,a bit tougher job than normal but nothing to you Bill !!
I’d love to be able to say that I have the Patience to deal with that, but I’m afraid That’s the sort of project that after 3 hours goes into a box and onto a shelf to gather dust. 😶
Super quiet :-)
Blimey bearings on c1980s Hornby, modern trash from other makes fail to employ bearings.
Nice loco, but awful design! Well done !
Terrible design. You need four hands and screwdrivers for fingers on two of them...