Thank you for taking the time to make this video; my idler bearing is not sounding great, so with your input, I now have the confidence to replace it myself.
Thanks for the video! just done it now on my 2005 S430 (W220) I did not have to take the radiator or fan off to get the pulley bolt out; pulley bolt also was T50 but the tensioner was a 16mm hex instead of E10
I just replaced this as a whole kit, (pulley, tensioner, and belt). Didn't have the right size T bits, but I was able to release the tensioner bolt with a 8mm socket, and removed the 2 tensioner bolts that attach to the engine with a 10mm socket.
That E10 reverse torx to loosen the tensioner pulley drives me crazy. I just had to replace my serpentine belt and that thing just WANTS to be rounded so badly especially when you apply pressure. Next belt is gonna have to be replaced by cutting the old one and installing a new tensioner with it :(
Same here e10 wouldnt even fit on mine had to order an e11, just gave up and ordered a new tensioner pulley for 25$ since it was on sale. This one has the socket for 17mm so no more torx bs for me
your video confirmed where the tension release bolt is, tks. There's usually a "pin hole" that you use to completely release the tension , when replacing belt. would you know where that hole is, or have a diagram, dont wanna hold the one bolt, and only work with the other. tks again for your effort ( 2000 C280/w202/m112)
Thanks for the video ! I have a 2007 W211 Mercedes E350 and sometimes cold mornings i hear a little noise from the idler pulley then the car warms up and the noise dissapear. Was wondering if the steps to replace the idler pulley at my car would be the same as in your video ?! At one service they told me i have to replace the belt the idler pulley and the tensioner and that the parts plus the work would cost me 560$ which i find pricey and not really necessary...
Fupa - When changing the oil on my SLK 320 V-6 I accidentally spilled oil on the belts. When I finished mopping up and cranked the car, the serpentine belt jumped off, damaging the idler pulley. I cleaned the the belt and pulleys by wiping them down with paper towels. Is there any special way to clean them, using a solvent. etc. I am assuming I should replace the serpentine belt and wondered if I should replace the belt tensioner while I am doing it . Your thoughts on cleaning the pulleys, reusing the serpentine and replacing the other components. Thanks in advance.
sorry for the late reply.. engine degreaser, or dishwashing detergent and hot water .. tide and hot water will work as well.. I doubt the tensioner is bad (there is a little gauge with some lines and an arrow on the tensioner that shows when it is worn out) The belt likely stopped being pulled and was still pushed at the same time , which made the tensioner slack and the belt popped off. I would replace the belt and just clean the pulleys
I used acetone on the pulleys, using a syringe to isolate the application, and carb cleaner on the belt. The belt seems ok but may have absorbed some oil not removed. I noticed you used threadlock on the idler pulley bolt. I was surprised the pulley was plastic. Do you have a video on replacement of heater blower for a 03 SLK 320?
dishsoapy water can do wonders to remove grease..as can tide. if the belt seems ok I would just monitor it to see if it is slipping.. I was going to recommend kerosene on the belt , but with the change to epdm rubber a few years ago , I don;t think kerosene is a good idea anymore.. used to use it to clean engines and chain grease off motorcycle wheels
the problem with any modern idler pulley or tensioner pulley bearing is, you replace it and after 3 weeks it´ll sound like that again... I´m not sure if this is still the right method to check them ...even with that noise they may still last forever...
during iddle my m112 makes a faint clicking noise that comes and goes... almost seems like its a pattern. could this be the cause? and sometimes when I cold start the belt makes a noise as it spins until the engine warms. could this also be the cause?
+adrian jennings. it is possible.. the clicking that comes and goes is usually a solenoid valve in the emissions system.. a little square box with an electrical connector on it.. .. I'll do a quick video in the next day or 2 on checking the idler for bearing noise.. A quick way to see if it is bad is to remove the belt (make sure you know how to put it back on ..make a drawing of how it goes around the pulleys) and start the car .. running without the belt for a minute won't harm anything , but don't run it too long since it turns the water pump... if the noise is gone yyou know the noise is coming from one of the turning accessories..water pump, tensioner, alternator , idler etc
Hey love your videos man, Helped me a lot fixing stuff on my E280. Just one question here, i bought a new replacement belt but not bearing is it crucial to change those at the same time or could i put on the belt and maybe grease up my old bearing and order a replacement and change when it arrives (shipping). Best regards John
Do you have any information on the nut that goes over the torque bolt for the tension? Mine is stripped and I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement!
Do you have a video on replacing the drive belt pulley tensioner on a SLK 320 V-6? I was told by a service shop that I needed to "REPLACE DRIVE BELT PULLEY TENSIONER SHOCK" at a cost of $400.00. Perhaps I am missing how difficult or expensive this is to do but it seems to be a high price quote.
+Chuck Stogner that seems high... I don't have a video on it although I do have a video on the 4 cylinder tensioner...Here is a video on replacing the tensioner on your V6 th-cam.com/video/iPkRdudwK8M/w-d-xo.html
+fupabox Thank you so much. I listened to the engine and when cold it sounds like a slight noise is coming from the idler pulley and the tensioner does not seem to be making any noise. I will recheck when the engine is hot.
Thanks for great video. Would you mind telling me how can I get information on bolt tightening torque. How much torque should I set on torque wrench for different bolts. By the way I got w203. Thanks in Advance.
Mohit Bhardwaj here is the shop manual for your car.. the different sections are in the left column.. all the torque values are within each section...the pop ups on the page are harmless workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/c_230_(203.040)/l4-1.8l_sc_(271.948)/body_and_frame/body_control_systems/body_control_module/component_information/locations/lower_control_field_control_module/
Was told that I need to replace the valve cover gaskets, the vent hose and clean the vent chamber. Does that require replacing both crankcase breather hoses ($569.50) and do you have a video on doing this?
+Chuck Stogner The breather hoses valve cover gaskets and vent chamber gaskets should be no more than $80 for all of them..only about 2 hours to do them all..$569. seems pricey I don'thave a valve cover gasket video .. the vent hoses are easy enough.. they just pop off and the new ones push on
The original tensioner on my vehicle has been replaced, do you know the size of the bolt head on the side of the newer model tensioners to release the tension? Would using the pin to hold the tension off make this any easier?
+Chuck Stogner yes putting the pin in the tensioner makes it easier to remove...I'm not 100% sure on the bolt sizes .. I've seen a few different ones from 14-16 mm
I’m sorry I don’t give any videos thumbs down and I’ve become a somewhat decent DIY’er over the past few years but I don’t understand why so many people put threadlock (locktite or permatex) on bolts that you shouldn’t be. I have the M272 engine and have done lots of stuff. Changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam magnets, etc., etc. I’m sorry but NONE of us know any better than the engineers and the factory. If you take a bolt out and see thread lock, put new thread lock when re-inserting the bolt. If you don’t see thread lock, don’t put any thread lock. I don’t think it’s right to make your own interpretations and I don’t know why so many people take liberties with that sort of thing. At the same time, I’ve had to fix my electronic lock and then I see videos where people take the steering wheel off and DON’T put thread lock - which is one of the places it should go when reinserting the steering wheel bolt. Sorry, but this is a car, not a coffee table or something. I don’t think any of us should be doing things the factory didn’t do.
just the belt is fine.. spin the tensioner pulley when the belt is off to see if you can hear any roughness or grinding.. if it's quiet then you are good to just replace the belt
Where is the best place to purchase the torx/reverse torx sockets to do this type of work. I image I am going to be needing them periodically on my 2003 320 SLK v-6
+fupabox Thank you for the quick feedback. Do you have a video on flushing/bleeding the brakes and clutch on a Mercedes 320? I did not see on your TH-cam site. I have a clutch that is very stiff when the weather is below freezing. Was thinking that when the brakes were bled by the dealership, that they did not bleed/flush the clutch at the same time.
+fupabox Is there a difference between a torx and a star bit drive and socket. It looks as though Harbor Freight calls them torx if the are small and then calls them star drive if they are larger and reverse (more like a regular socket).
Chuck Stogner reverse torx are also called E-torx and are as you say , more like a socket...the pattern is the same as torx (2 overlapping triangles ..6 sides..like a star..but not called star drive)...there is also a less common double square drive or even triple square...they look the same as a torx at first glance, but will not fit...Star bit is 5 sided and also will not fit.. torx and e torx are the 2 sets you will need
+Chuck Stogner The clutch can be a bit stiff when the fluid is really cold..if It gets better after a few minutes I wouldn't worry too much... To bleed it you need to get someone to partially depress the clutch while you loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to release the fluid..same as brake bleeding, but more susceptible to allowing air in.. Mercedes recommends pressure bleeding which is faster and easier if you have access to the tools
I’m sorry I don’t give any videos thumbs down and I’ve become a somewhat decent DIY’er over the past few years but I don’t understand why so many people put threadlock (locktite or permatex) on bolts that you shouldn’t be. I have the M272 engine and have done lots of stuff. Changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam magnets, etc., etc. I’m sorry but NONE of us know any better than the engineers and the factory. If you take a bolt out and see thread lock, put new thread lock when re-inserting the bolt. If you don’t see thread lock, don’t put any thread lock. I don’t think it’s right to make your own interpretations and I don’t know why so many people take liberties with that sort of thing. At the same time, I’ve had to fix my electronic lock and then I see videos where people take the steering wheel off and DON’T put thread lock - which is one of the places it should go when reinserting the steering wheel bolt. Sorry, but this is a car, not a coffee table or something. I don’t think any of us should be doing things the factory didn’t do.
Lock tote blue will also help prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals , and prevents seizing . A metal bolt in an aluminum block would be disastrous if it vibrates loose and destroys the threads .
+minzi2047 for the w202 c230 I only have a bushing removal video for the lower control arm..It's on the w202 playlist, or the w208 playlist...they are identical.
This guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about when it comes to m113.. a lot of these procedures are very different when dealing with the v6 compared to the v8 Title the videos correctly, this or not the same procedure for the v8 m113
Thank you for taking the time to make this video; my idler bearing is not sounding great, so with your input, I now have the confidence to replace it myself.
Nice video. Very clear english articulation for a non-native english speaker to understand.
Where is the fan and how do you remove it?
Thanks for the video! just done it now on my 2005 S430 (W220) I did not have to take the radiator or fan off to get the pulley bolt out; pulley bolt also was T50 but the tensioner was a 16mm hex instead of E10
I just replaced this as a whole kit, (pulley, tensioner, and belt). Didn't have the right size T bits, but I was able to release the tensioner bolt with a 8mm socket, and removed the 2 tensioner bolts that attach to the engine with a 10mm socket.
Cool. I watched the video and replaced it in 15 minutes :) Thanks! 🙂
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much. I have a CLK 430 and I've learned so much from your videos!!!
Glad they help :)
CLK is such a good car. Love it more every time i drive it.
You make it look simple and quick. The MBZ suggested torque, with no thread locker on the long bolt , thru the idler pulley is 9-11 Nm ~JP~
So hard to find the correct torque spec. Three different videos, 3 different specs. Last one I watched said 25Nm which is 18.5 ftlbs.
Greetings from Poland!
That E10 reverse torx to loosen the tensioner pulley drives me crazy. I just had to replace my serpentine belt and that thing just WANTS to be rounded so badly especially when you apply pressure. Next belt is gonna have to be replaced by cutting the old one and installing a new tensioner with it :(
Same here e10 wouldnt even fit on mine had to order an e11, just gave up and ordered a new tensioner pulley for 25$ since it was on sale. This one has the socket for 17mm so no more torx bs for me
Great video, I have an 04 Crossfire/Slk 320
Thanks , I actually replaced faster than video:)
Excellent video as usual.
your video confirmed where the tension release bolt is, tks. There's usually a "pin hole" that you use to completely release the tension , when replacing belt. would you know where that hole is, or have a diagram, dont wanna hold the one bolt, and only work with the other. tks again for your effort ( 2000 C280/w202/m112)
Thanks for the tip got the job done no problems
Thanks for the video !
I have a 2007 W211 Mercedes E350 and sometimes cold mornings i hear a little noise from the idler pulley then the car warms up and the noise dissapear.
Was wondering if the steps to replace the idler pulley at my car would be the same as in your video ?!
At one service they told me i have to replace the belt the idler pulley and the tensioner and that the parts plus the work would cost me 560$ which i find pricey and not really necessary...
Very useful thanks!
Fupa - When changing the oil on my SLK 320 V-6 I accidentally spilled oil on the belts. When I finished mopping up and cranked the car, the serpentine belt jumped off, damaging the idler pulley. I cleaned the the belt and pulleys by wiping them down with paper towels. Is there any special way to clean them, using a solvent. etc. I am assuming I should replace the serpentine belt and wondered if I should replace the belt tensioner while I am doing it . Your thoughts on cleaning the pulleys, reusing the serpentine and replacing the other components. Thanks in advance.
sorry for the late reply.. engine degreaser, or dishwashing detergent and hot water .. tide and hot water will work as well.. I doubt the tensioner is bad (there is a little gauge with some lines and an arrow on the tensioner that shows when it is worn out) The belt likely stopped being pulled and was still pushed at the same time , which made the tensioner slack and the belt popped off. I would replace the belt and just clean the pulleys
I used acetone on the pulleys, using a syringe to isolate the application, and carb cleaner on the belt. The belt seems ok but may have absorbed some oil not removed. I noticed you used threadlock on the idler pulley bolt. I was surprised the pulley was plastic. Do you have a video on replacement of heater blower for a 03 SLK 320?
dishsoapy water can do wonders to remove grease..as can tide. if the belt seems ok I would just monitor it to see if it is slipping.. I was going to recommend kerosene on the belt , but with the change to epdm rubber a few years ago , I don;t think kerosene is a good idea anymore.. used to use it to clean engines and chain grease off motorcycle wheels
❤
the problem with any modern idler pulley or tensioner pulley bearing is, you replace it and after 3 weeks it´ll sound like that again... I´m not sure if this is still the right method to check them ...even with that noise they may still last forever...
yup ..they can sound that way for years..or days :(
Is is normal for the crankshaft pulley to wobble a little at idle speed? Thank you.
A very tiny bit , yes
during iddle my m112 makes a faint clicking noise that comes and goes... almost seems like its a pattern. could this be the cause? and sometimes when I cold start the belt makes a noise as it spins until the engine warms. could this also be the cause?
+adrian jennings. it is possible.. the clicking that comes and goes is usually a solenoid valve in the emissions system.. a little square box with an electrical connector on it.. .. I'll do a quick video in the next day or 2 on checking the idler for bearing noise.. A quick way to see if it is bad is to remove the belt (make sure you know how to put it back on ..make a drawing of how it goes around the pulleys) and start the car .. running without the belt for a minute won't harm anything , but don't run it too long since it turns the water pump... if the noise is gone yyou know the noise is coming from one of the turning accessories..water pump, tensioner, alternator , idler etc
Hey love your videos man, Helped me a lot fixing stuff on my E280. Just one question here, i bought a new replacement belt but not bearing is it crucial to change those at the same time or could i put on the belt and maybe grease up my old bearing and order a replacement and change when it arrives (shipping).
Best regards
John
Yup. If the bearing isn't screaming and super rattly , you could replace the belt and do the bearing later
@@fupabox appreciate the reply, thanks a lot
Do you have any information on the nut that goes over the torque bolt for the tension? Mine is stripped and I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement!
The only thing I can think of is the dealership , or a wrecking yard
Did you lose the East her that goes between the pulley and vehicle?
super video
Do you have a video on replacing the drive belt pulley tensioner on a SLK 320 V-6?
I was told by a service shop that I needed to "REPLACE DRIVE BELT PULLEY TENSIONER SHOCK" at a cost of $400.00.
Perhaps I am missing how difficult or expensive this is to do but it seems to be a high price quote.
+Chuck Stogner that seems high... I don't have a video on it although I do have a video on the 4 cylinder tensioner...Here is a video on replacing the tensioner on your V6 th-cam.com/video/iPkRdudwK8M/w-d-xo.html
+fupabox Thank you so much. I listened to the engine and when cold it sounds like a slight noise is coming from the idler pulley and the tensioner does not seem to be making any noise. I will recheck when the engine is hot.
Thanks for great video. Would you mind telling me how can I get information on bolt tightening torque. How much torque should I set on torque wrench for different bolts. By the way I got w203.
Thanks in Advance.
+Mohit Bhardwaj which year and model w203 ?
+fupabox Thanks for quick reply. It is c180 w203 year 2003 Right hand side steering wheel. Thanks once again.
Mohit Bhardwaj here is the shop manual for your car.. the different sections are in the left column.. all the torque values are within each section...the pop ups on the page are harmless workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/c_230_(203.040)/l4-1.8l_sc_(271.948)/body_and_frame/body_control_systems/body_control_module/component_information/locations/lower_control_field_control_module/
Was told that I need to replace the valve cover gaskets, the vent hose and clean the vent chamber. Does that require replacing both crankcase breather hoses ($569.50) and do you have a video on doing this?
+Chuck Stogner The breather hoses valve cover gaskets and vent chamber gaskets should be no more than $80 for all of them..only about 2 hours to do them all..$569. seems pricey I don'thave a valve cover gasket video .. the vent hoses are easy enough.. they just pop off and the new ones push on
I'm in Georgia state I will do the work for you I will only charge you $250
Thanks!
I bought the same bearing, having troubles getting the cap on did you run into the same problem if so how did you resolve it
Pulley*
No issue popping the cap on . It should just snap on easily
The original tensioner on my vehicle has been replaced, do you know the size of the bolt head on the side of the newer model tensioners to release the tension? Would using the pin to hold the tension off make this any easier?
+Chuck Stogner yes putting the pin in the tensioner makes it easier to remove...I'm not 100% sure on the bolt sizes .. I've seen a few different ones from 14-16 mm
Its 17mm
"Sh*t, thread locker on it" ? :D Cool vid thanks, is it possible to remove the bolt on G500? Is there enough space?
with the rad fan and shroud out..maybe just enough .
I’m sorry I don’t give any videos thumbs down and I’ve become a somewhat decent DIY’er over the past few years but I don’t understand why so many people put threadlock (locktite or permatex) on bolts that you shouldn’t be. I have the M272 engine and have done lots of stuff. Changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam magnets, etc., etc. I’m sorry but NONE of us know any better than the engineers and the factory. If you take a bolt out and see thread lock, put new thread lock when re-inserting the bolt. If you don’t see thread lock, don’t put any thread lock. I don’t think it’s right to make your own interpretations and I don’t know why so many people take liberties with that sort of thing. At the same time, I’ve had to fix my electronic lock and then I see videos where people take the steering wheel off and DON’T put thread lock - which is one of the places it should go when reinserting the steering wheel bolt. Sorry, but this is a car, not a coffee table or something. I don’t think any of us should be doing things the factory didn’t do.
to remove the belt do i just have to loosen the tension or do i have to do something else
i like to replace my timing belt
just the serpentine belt im gonna replace do i also have to change the belt tensioner an pulley or im i good with just replacing the belt.
just the belt is fine.. spin the tensioner pulley when the belt is off to see if you can hear any roughness or grinding.. if it's quiet then you are good to just replace the belt
JUST ONE LITTLE THING. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE PULLEY OUT ON THE V8 WITHOUT REMOVING THE RADIATOR :-(
yes ... excellent point
Where is the best place to purchase the torx/reverse torx sockets to do this type of work. I image I am going to be needing them periodically on my 2003 320 SLK v-6
+Chuck Stogner any place like harbor freight, Lowes, Home depot etc. should have them
+fupabox Thank you for the quick feedback. Do you have a video on flushing/bleeding the
brakes and clutch on a Mercedes 320? I did not see on your TH-cam site.
I have a clutch that is very stiff when the weather is below freezing. Was thinking that when the brakes were bled by the dealership, that they did not bleed/flush the clutch at the same time.
+fupabox Is there a difference between a torx and a star bit drive and socket. It looks as though Harbor Freight calls them torx if the are small and then calls them star drive if they are larger and reverse (more like a regular socket).
Chuck Stogner reverse torx are also called E-torx and are as you say , more like a socket...the pattern is the same as torx (2 overlapping triangles ..6 sides..like a star..but not called star drive)...there is also a less common double square drive or even triple square...they look the same as a torx at first glance, but will not fit...Star bit is 5 sided and also will not fit.. torx and e torx are the 2 sets you will need
+Chuck Stogner The clutch can be a bit stiff when the fluid is really cold..if It gets better after a few minutes I wouldn't worry too much... To bleed it you need to get someone to partially depress the clutch while you loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to release the fluid..same as brake bleeding, but more susceptible to allowing air in.. Mercedes recommends pressure bleeding which is faster and easier if you have access to the tools
I’m sorry I don’t give any videos thumbs down and I’ve become a somewhat decent DIY’er over the past few years but I don’t understand why so many people put threadlock (locktite or permatex) on bolts that you shouldn’t be. I have the M272 engine and have done lots of stuff. Changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam magnets, etc., etc. I’m sorry but NONE of us know any better than the engineers and the factory. If you take a bolt out and see thread lock, put new thread lock when re-inserting the bolt. If you don’t see thread lock, don’t put any thread lock. I don’t think it’s right to make your own interpretations and I don’t know why so many people take liberties with that sort of thing. At the same time, I’ve had to fix my electronic lock and then I see videos where people take the steering wheel off and DON’T put thread lock - which is one of the places it should go when reinserting the steering wheel bolt. Sorry, but this is a car, not a coffee table or something. I don’t think any of us should be doing things the factory didn’t do.
Lock tote blue will also help prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals , and prevents seizing . A metal bolt in an aluminum block would be disastrous if it vibrates loose and destroys the threads .
Whats is that blue stuff you put on the bolt
blue locktite
What did you do with the fan?
some versions have no mechanical fan , just electric ones.
Do you have a control arm lower video for the c230?
+minzi2047 for the w202 c230 I only have a bushing removal video for the lower control arm..It's on the w202 playlist, or the w208 playlist...they are identical.
+fupabox thanks
I had to spit too - just hearing your disgust
😂😂🤣
Balt nambar Kya h Bhai bta do
This guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about when it comes to m113.. a lot of these procedures are very different when dealing with the v6 compared to the v8
Title the videos correctly, this or not the same procedure for the v8 m113