Dearest Seiko, Why?!! I love this watch. But, the 6R35 is a crap movement.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2022
- Dearest Seiko, Why?!! I love this watch. But, the 6R35 is a crap movement.
From my experience, the 6R35 when direct from the factory in a watch that houses it usually runs pretty bad. I was able to remedy my SBDC105 that was around -25 s/d up to a very excellent +1 to +2 s/d, amazingly.
However, this time the 6R35 in this SBDC111 was also running much slower than I'd like, around -13 s/d. And, even worst the movement is really eratic. The watch could flatline, or be gradual, and then it could ramp up to over 40-80 s/d, or minus 40-80 s/d.. and it may do both while stationary on the timegraphee sometimes. I think it pretty much needs a complete overhaul, cleaning and servicing to get it up to spec. However, I don't want to bother with the cost and time to do it.
As such, I am going to swap in a good old reliable NH35. They have always worked super well for me and for well under $50 should transform this watch into a very reliable watch that will be even easier to service, if not completely replace the movement with another NH35, at a fairly low cost.
Am I silly or stupid for doing so? I don't think so. I don't care about reducing the power reserve from 70hrs to 38-40hrs.. what good is a higher power reserve if the watch fails to keep time accurately and deviates like a mofo? Besides, once I put a watch out of rotation it will most likely stay out long enough well beyond where the power reserve tops out at.
Anyways, stay tuned to see if this fix was worth it or may end up being a bust. Right now, I can't imagine how it could get worst than where it's at right now. Like Howard Jones sang, ".. things can only get better...", right? - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Regardless of the movement, a $700+ watch should be regulated.
The 4R moments I have and have had are all great. My 6R15 is a bit sporadic. Could just be a coincidence in my case but in my experience I prefer the 4R movements.
I have a sumo and I'm really happy with the movment. It's +4 seconds a day. I was wary of the QC issue but I've been lucky to get a solid one.
My Sumo with 6r35 was running really bad, +90 seconds a day when I got it. I sent it back to Seiko under warranty and now it runs approx -10 a day. If I leave it face up at night it'll run faster and average out at +0.4 seconds a day.
6R35's can be consistent and accurate, if youre having issues outside of the advertised accuracy tolerances I strongly suggest sending your watch to Seiko or an experienced watchmaker and have them sort it for you. I agree that for the price however Seiko should sort these issues before they reach the consumer.
Either way, I know what to do to "fix it". Doesn't matter as I sold the watch already. I doubt I'll ever go back to any Seiko with a 6R movement. I'll happily stick with the older but more reliable 4R or jump up to a 6L or 8L movement.
This model is my favorite of the series so far. I've heard of a few YT watch reviewers stating the same issues with there own purchases.
It is definitely not unheard of for these issues regarding the movement.
I have taken apart my 6r35 and both the escapement wheel and the pallet fork are MEMS - amazing!!
What does MEMS mean? Thank you😊
I've heard that the mechanism for regulating the 6R35 is extremely delicate and easy to break. Something to keep in mind if you plan to regulate it yourself and you're not an experienced and well seasoned professional.
etachron is the system, there are special tools designed to turn these with precision.
when I service a watch with this etacrhhon system I open the pins all the way and then move the arm to show a rate of -130 Spd then close them stop around 0,+5
my seiko spb143 was around 30 seconds slow when I bought it so I took it to a local watchmaker who regulated it for 20 bucks. Now its about +1 second a day. You might consider trying that option instead of swapping to a downgraded movement.
I had an spb147. It also ran about -25 s/d at least. I know how to regulate a watch myself. I got that one-up to +1 s/d. The Willard had shitty movement and not salvageable other than to do a complete tear down and reassemble and proper lubrication which is usually the problem from the factory when it runs erratic like this.
@@khronokraze It sounds like you know what your doing with the timegrapher ..I agree if your sure the movement is a lemon. Thanks for sharing your experience either way
Other Seiko divers have the (unregulated) 8L35, at $1200 more. Doxa, Citizen, Mido, Oris, etc... are alternatives.
Try re-oiling the pivots and jewels before replacing. I found that I improved some Seiko movement with beat stability issues.
I'll consider it if ever I plan to put the 6R35 movement back into it.
I only own two watches with 6r35 movements, but damn they vacillate wildly. All over the place. Some days they'll be -5 to -10, and then overnight they'll gain 20 seconds, no matter what position I leave them in. My 4r movement watches are all pretty consistent, all around -7 to +7. I think if I were you, before I swapped out the movement in your Willard, I'd have the watch serviced by a competent watchmaker. Taken apart, cleaned, re-lubed, etc. I'm sure you've seen Spencer Klein's video about how the 6r movement was really over-lubricated from the factory. After he took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, it was perfect. So maybe service first, before movement swap? I'm curious how it turns out for you either way...
Yes, I'm well aware of Spencer Klein's opinion on the 6R35s. Like you said they're generally over lubricated and thus they just have real crazy performances a lot of the times it seems.
Again, thanks for sort of validating my opinion and statements about the movement. I know some people might get a little bit touchy or offended because of what I said about it. But, if they really watch the video and hear what I say, I do say that it can be an excellent movement it is is properly service and put together and all of that. I have had a very well running 6R35 and my SPDC105. And I noticed that in the video. And also in the comments to somebody else. But, this one is just pure crap unfortunately. I will remedy it. Perhaps in the future when I feel like it I may just send the movement not to get serviced by on its own and then maybe I'll put that back into another watch later on or maybe back into this watch later on if I do do that.
At least yours gains time if left off wrist and put in certain positions. Mine loses 30 seconds a day PERIOD on/off wrist on a winder in every position ..
I have a SPB117 that runs at like +1/+2 per day (6R35), and I have a 313 that runs at like -10/ -8 per day (6R35). Both well within the tolerances. Maybe I just got lucky. I plan on taking the 313 to see if I can get it running faster, but overall I'm happy with both watches I own that have the 6R35. Awesome Glycine Airman by the way.
Yeah, you probably got lucky. Similarly the luck of the draw if and when you can get a Seiko that has complete perfect alignment. But, seriously, I do actually believe the 6r35 movement is inherently a good and solid one. It's just that the way Seiko manufactures them is inconsistent and I think more often than not they fail their own movements in this process. Just my humble experience and opinion. And like I said in the video, my SBDC105 I got to run within plus one second for day or so after I tweaked it. It came out of the box at like -25 seconds per day. But with this particular movement in this particular watch, it's really that bad that I have to just simply swap out the movement for something I know it's going to be reliable and not expensive at all to do.
Thanks, I left my glycine watches. This one is running within plus or minus 1 second per day also which is super excellent. I forget if it came out of the box like that or did I mess with it a little bit just to get it tuned in even better? I have to refer back to my ongoing record keeping notes ... Which I do for every single watch that I owned.
You didn't lucky, they have sold 100's of thousands of this movement. How many have isues? Answer, a small percentage youmjust don't hear from those who have no issues.
@@AcmeRocketjust saying, I heard the warnings of the inaccuracy of this movement, it seems a little fast the first day, but I have to fix the watch two-three times a week.
My Hamilton khaki king and coop are a few seconds a day
Then my seiko samurai is -30 ish seconds a day
I have the willard spb153
@@ryanthomas9306 yeah, I can only see it from my perspective. I really don't buy watches based on accuracy since they are all inaccurate, and I am extremely punctual. I have accurate watches and a phone, tablet, laptop but, I buy what I like and have many. so I am setting watches when I put them on. 10 seconds or 15 or whatever, does not influence my purchase. to me, the concept of buying an imperfect timekeeper because it is slightly less imperfect is silly. and with Seiko, because of social media, you will never here the end of the cnty bezel misalignment / accuracy whining, no matter what they do .
Yeah my spb143 runs +5s / week (I only check sporadically.
So I’m very happy with it, but I have noticed face up runs fast, other positions seem to run slow so it averages out over the day.
Can you let me know which caseback tool you have please?
I use this one, now, I got from Amazon. It's pricey, but saw a watchmaker use something like this to open a stubborn ass SRP Turtle case back for me... one of my first Seiko mods and I couldn't get into it with the crappy case back tool I had.. one of those 3 prong ones.
This is the best case opener. Holds the case very well and you get excellent control and torque to get the most stubborn case back open without scratching anything..of course, you could if careless. But, it's been the best case back opener tool. Never fear opening up a watch case back again.
VEVOR Bench Watch Opener 5700... www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS3CHP3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My local shop said my new SBDC109 with a 6R35A has just failed. They said the amplitude is so low, it must be replaced. Mine is running fast over 60 seconds per day. I just sent it back to Seiko, hoping they'll cover this as warranty. (2020 purchase). My shop tech said he's heard about a fair amount of failures of this movement. He said they call them "Covid" watches - most are great, but a few are duds.
The 4R and 6R are the same movement except the 6R seems worse. I have both and the 4Rs are workhorses, the 6Rs always run funky. Given that Seiko is competing now with the entry level Swiss market, with ETA or Sellita, this doesn't cut it. I keep thinking of buying a Seiko and always ask "where's the value for money here?" Used to be the best value in watches, now they're way far behind the microbrands and entry Swiss stuff. I do love my Alpinist though which is a fantastic design but I doubt I'll buy another Seiko any time soon.
Yeah, unfortunately, a lot of Seiko's heritage cool dive models are running the new 6R35's.. and that drives up prices consequently around the $1k mark...which is a bitter pill to swallow when I really like a particular model... But, I hold out knowing the likelihood the 6R in it may disappoint than not. I did give into this particular Willard because I always really liked it.. but, as maybe you've seen in my related videos, the movement really disappointed and soured the experience. But, I did remedy it with @ 4R35 and it works a hell of a lot better now. Been wearing it again the last 2 days including now as writing this response.
Sucks.i had to basically repair the watch almost as soon as I got it from the get go. But, oh well.. either I sell it or make it work to my satisfaction. I did the latter.
@@khronokraze I find this incredible tbh. I knew the 6R was garbage having had a SARB from around 2016. Great watch, kept horrible time. I still bought one of the new Alpinists, for half price on Black Friday, knowing the movement in it is garbage but it wasn’t that expensive. When it needs a service, I’m getting my watchmaker to throw an NH35 in. I see no Seiko worth the retail price until you get to the higher end stuff (like say the MM300). Why Seiko keeps pushing with the 6R is beyond me, why not just make a better finished 4R? Also the misalignment, but that’s another story… 😅
@@MrChippinator yeah.. my first watch with the 6R35 ran like crap. But, I manage to regulate it and it became super accurate. However, the one in this Willard was unsavable.. well, without taking to a watchmaker and complete overhaul to get it up to proper spec. As such, I quickly remedied with a 4R36 swap on my own and it's been running a lot better at -3 to +2 s/d.. I may possibly tweak it to be a little tighter. But, I feel good wearing the watch knowing it keeps great time now with the 4R36.
I want to put a spring drive in my Willard.
All my 4r have better accuracy than my 6r. Will never pay more than $500 for any 6r movements, never again. I love the Willard design, if only they used the 4r movement and it's more affordable for most people. I purchased my Oceanica Reef,Willard homage about 2 years ago with the 4r movement, still running great , about +5 sec/day, paid $175. I'm done with seiko, period.
Steeldive is your answer my friend. Willard design, nh35 and fraction of the price. My SD1970 is running very well.
Yeah i would take an SW200 on a 1000-1500usd watch over a 6r35.... Easier to regulate and more consistent. Even the Sea-Gull variants are okay and spot on after oiling the pivots. I love my Seikos but i have been branching out more with Seiko price increases without increasing the value. Farer and Nomos are my recent acquisitions and loving the finish and value.
My slim turtle is running at +1spd somehow. Seems I got lucky lol.
I have had a few customers send these in, usually $100 for a regulation & a pressure test I've been regulating them to gain about 5 seconds per day
I've regulated the movement myself to be under 1 or 2 seconds a day. Why my SPB 147. But this one as I think I mentioned in this video is impossible to save without a complete overhaul.
The longer power supply really needs to be kept wound up to run with consistent accuracy.
It makes no difference
your voice recording is a bit muffled, i like to hear your commentary as it is interesting and it offers valuable insight to the brand. by the way i do love the green color of the watch. wish it had a better bracelet
I'll try to work on sound quality and my enunciation
The new ones do have the 6r35 movement in them and it is so noisy on the timegrapher that you cannot get an accurate reading. I have a Seiko with a 6R57 and it runs within COSC parameters with almost no weird beats.
Write a script, or even a list of points you want to make. You can tighten up your videos a lot.
Maybe you should do your own videos with your own script.
Always weird when someone takes constructive criticism aimed at someone else and feels the need to post a needlessly defensive response on someone else's behalf.@justmeeagainn
I have a sekio alpanist - I love the watch and I would buy the Willard, but the movement is not good enough - it runs very slow and it can lose 40 seconds a day
Yeah. There're a lot of Prospex models I really like. But, I have to think hard and long to get myself to buy another one with a 6R movement inside. So, far, I haven't gone back and refrained from further ventures with a 6R.
6R's are hit and miss in my experience. But even the good ones get outperformed by Miyotas. (minus Power reserve)
6R's are what's holding me back from buying on of these 1k Seiko divers.
Feelings are pretty much the same. For example, I like the new slim turtle or Willard or whichever you want to call it. But, the 6R35 in them... Not sure if I'm prepared for another disappointment.
Additionally, I also hold reservations around the new 6R54 GMT movement because it is 6R based. I think I'd hold more confidence in the 4R34 if I were going for something with a Seiko GMT movement.
@@khronokraze Oh My God. I have been waiting for the release of the Seiko SPB381 for so long, and now you have said that you also have reservations around the 6R54. What exactly are your concerns, and do you think that I should buy the SPB381? I absolutely love its design and color. You have put me in a state of confusion.
I thought it's pretty self-explanatory. But I'll break it down. Essentially the 6R35 movement is inherently a good movement. It should be. It's just Seiko's quality control is not consistent and there's a fair number of people that experience the same erratic behavior of the 6R35 movement. You might get lucky and it works just fine and really well. But, there's a chance it may go the other way. You just take your chances with that movement.
The miyota 9000 series are MUCH better than the 6r . I have a few that gain or lose 90 seconds over a few weeks . My 6r loses 90 seconds in 3 DAYS! A 3 day power reserve is meaningless if you have to adjust the time ever 24 hours.
I will say one thing about the 6r35 movement in my watch .. it's incredibly reliable . With the rubbish accuracy I treat it like shit throwing it around shaking it to increase the time bumping it , dropping it etc .. and it just keeps going the same -30 seconds a day .. ( doing the Seiko shake holding it upside down and twirling it actually speeds it up for anyone who doesn't know about it )
I bought a green alpinist (SPB 245). I love the watch, its almost perfect. Sporty but at the same time dressy, beautiful and even if it gets scratches along the way they will look good on it making it look tough, bad-ass. Now, the statement that 6R35 is crap, is an understatement. I had to return the watch to the AD for repair under warranty after a year, because it started loosing a minute per day. They kept it for 4 monhts, and I have it for two months now. This time its gaining almost 30 secs per day, the past two days its losing 20 secs a day and the 2 year warranty expired.. I was a Seiko fan, but i am not spending a single penny on Seiko watch ever again, this is a damn rip-off. A sellita SW-200 seems like alien technology compared to the 6r35...
Don't be fooled by the new watches that don't use chapter rings - I've seen some of them with dials that weren't printed correctly. eg. the top 12 o'clock marker did not align with the minute track. 🤦♂
As for the 6R35 movement - I've seen and heard about many people having to send their watches back to Seiko for faulty movements. I have a friend who's SRP777 completely stopped working and someone with an SPB151 that was incredibly erratic from day to day.
I can believe there could be misprint on the dial that could mess with alignment. But, so far, the ones such as on this and the sbdc105 I owned had no such issues.
See, I'm not talking out my ass about the 6R35. I know they are not all like this. But, they failed me out of the box 2 out of 2 times so far. The 4Rs have had way more success and because they're inexpensive, I'm not tripping about a full movement replace to get the movement relatively quickly fixed and up to par.
I hate to do a technical downgrade in movement with this watch. But, when I feel I can say with confidence and experience that the 4R has been more successful movement over the 6R, I think it's more an upgrade than downgrade, in my humble opinion, if and when I can get the watch working properly and without (further) fuss.
@@khronokraze the misalignment I saw was on an SPB143 dial and the other was on SPB317. Since I never wear any of my watches for one day before swapping to something else, I never really checked the accuracy of my SPB237 - but it's so beautiful I think I would live with the movement regardless of accuracy. Hearing all this negative feedback about the 6R35 movements really makes me not want to buy any new Seiko watches that uses that movement, which is unfortunate because it's in the price range I typically like to shop in. Good luck with the movement swap - hope it works for you.
I have a Sumo 3rd Gen and considering the price point im very dissapointed in the accuracy of the 6R35. Very erratic watch. I had a samurai a few years back and sold it with lots of regret. That was running wayyyy better with the 4R35. Looking to sell this and re-purchase a workhorse samurai and be done with seikos in the 'mid' tier. The value simply isn't there anymore. Hamilton or Christopher Ward easily take over after that in terms of movement and overall value for money.
Have all the previous movements been good and this generation being the 1st crap ones, or has Seiko always been hit or miss with their movements?
I wouldn't put a blanket statement like that on all of Seiko movements. However, if you look around at some videos with the watches that have the 6R35 movements, you may discover a number of people tend to believe and have experienced that they aren't that great out of the box. Some have experience no problems. But, I think there're enough people that say the movement is rather erratic out of the box that it's kind of a known thing at this point. That's just my humble opinion and experiences with the 6R35.
I believe they are inherently a solid and good movement. It's just that Seiko doesn't put the TLC in them consistently and so they kind of let their own movement down because of that.
I hv bad experiece with 6r35
Seiko automatic movements gotten so bad I don't buy a seiko unless its solar now.
My daily watch, the seiko solardiver does +1s/month. Most accurate quartz I have by far.
I have found the 4r35-36 to run better
Its very sad because I love the watches which have this movement but the accuracy is awful. I have to constantly maintain the time on these watches even when wearing them constantly.
Most of the other Seiko models I like unfortunately contain this movement. I contemplate giving one a chance. It might ok, for once, for me. But, I just can't get myself to do it.
I'm more inclined to stick with one with a lower 4R movement. They've been much more successful for me..or, jump higher and perhaps one of the newer with a 6L movement. As I understand them, they are basically a thinner version of an 8L movement.
@@khronokraze Its manageable if you are a hobbyist and enjoy looking after the watch, but you get tired of that. It just doesn't sit well with me mentally that my watch movement isnt that accurate and is one of the weaker seiko movements, it destroys the enthusiasm. I think the 4R is better, I even went as far as wearing both the 6r and 4r at the same time to see how much weaker the 6r was.
Don't bother with the Seiko NH35 ...... I have had three all ran well for a couple of months ...... then little by little they all ran slower and slower ...... I think it is poor lubrication, surely it can't be wear ? ..... buy a Swiss watch or at least wit a Swiss movement
@יְהִי אוֹר Ive broken NH35, they all break if unlucky, no mechanical watch is all that unbreakable
The steeldive 1970 has a NH35 movement in it, and you can pick the whole watch up for 50 quid. Hey it won't have Seiko on the dial, but is that that important to you, when you are pissed off and have to swap out the entire movement of a watch because it is awful?
Their tolerances are -15/+20 so it was outside of the tolerance and under warranty
Seems like Seiko is using ISO 6425 as their "red line" ... Water resistance = Diver (depth), accuracy -15/+20 (stated in the specs), don't have a formal regulation program (Omega, Tudor, Rolex, Breitling, others..)- doing so would increase prices (like using the 8L35 instead of the 6R35) - $1,000 - $2,000 per watch (roughly speaking). I'm waiting for Seiko to make a Prospex Diver with a new movement or use the 8L35 AND factory regulate them. Why, why, why?
Its probably broke, so take it to a watchmaker, can happend to any watch.
Its a damn shame the 6r35 is such a rubbish movememt . Its in some great looking watches . I have a limited edition sharp edge series spb363j. Awesome extremely legible dial VERY comfortable.. but ridiculously inaccurate. Doesnt matter what position its in . On or off wrist on a winder whatever .. it consistently goes -30 seconds a day ... The killer is its only 3 months old.. hazard a guess the amplitude is very low .
prove us what's wrong with the 6R35 then. I will tell you, it is perfectly capable to do what it is intended to do
U obviously didn't go through the entire video. I did essentially mention it is capable and would be a great movement IF Seiko did their QC right all the time. But, that just doesn't happen. And I have had a great 6R35, in a SBDC105 that I used to own, after I made adjustments to it. But, this one is unsalvageable without spending more money and time than I want to get it up to spec. If I did, I'm sure it could potentially run as good as it should.
@@RabbitWatchShop my $1500 spb363j runs -30 spd regardless of position or on/off wrist . I agree it's a turd of a movement .. but haven't yet felt like selling it yet since it's such a good looking watch!
@@justinlangley9522 you can attempt to regulate it, or if you have a competent watchmaker in your area, have him/her regulate it. i regulated it without a timegrapher, getting it within spec. sold it
25 minutes ... should be resumed in one sentence 😧
6rXX Series is nothing more than the 7sXX or 4rXX series with a different mainspring-barrel. The accuracy is the same as 4rxx and 7sxx.
In fact, if you buy a Seiko with an 6rxx movement, all you're doing is giving an extra hour to a Thai prostitute for Seiko executives.
6r35 movement is rubbish . Widely innacurate no matter how I place it in a watch box on a winder or even on wrist . What's worst mine ALWAYS runs slow.. $1500 AUD is way overpriced for such an inferior movement . Shame really because Seiko make some great looking watches . And my presage akebono is a prime example.
Great video, I am seiko fanatic for about 10 years now, but now I am thinking more and more about Citizen. My opinion is that if someone buys a watch, is no important how price is, it must have 0 accuracy a day. You are buying a WATCH, you don't have to look at phone or timegrapher to check it and got it regulated. We should all stop buying. I know that this is mid tier and entry level movement. They should put quartz in this great looking watches like samurai, turtle etc or they should put spring drive on lower price range. They should stop making watches that are not apsolute precision, I know that is impossible.
@volkz hahaha though it's a good thing that literally beating it up makes it do better it's ridiculous that we have to do something like that to make it work! Mines running -30 seconds a day .. alas its still a keeper as it's a great looking extremely comfortable watch.
@@mirko484 It would be great to have a quartz Turtle, but then the hands wouldn't be smooth.
Ditch Seiko like all of us! There are other better brands to explore. Lately I been buying Islanders. By the way never send your Grand Seiko to the US service center. Mine came back running +10 to +13 sec a day and even the boutique try to make excuses that rolex owners dont care if their watch runs +30 sec. what kind of idiots are they hiring these days! Bye bye seiko!
Hello, i have 2 6R35 movement. And im not agree with you.
Actualky 6R35 much more accurate and reliable than 4R35.
Yes when the watch in your hand for a first time the accuracy will be over the place. But, after you regulate it. It will do the job.
After that, i just have 2-3 second in acuracy for a day. When its a lil bit rough it will expand to 5 secon.
So i think, you just need to regulate it.
I had one 6R35 regulated and it performed really great. The 2nd which was in this watch regulating didn't do sh!t for it. Still ran like crap and all over the place. So 1 for 2, and that's after I had a go to try and fix it, is not so good in my own experience. Otherwise out of box it would be 0 for 2.
You shouldn't need to regulate a brand new $1200 watch. My Willard ran +24s out of the box.
Good u have a good experience with 6R35. My experience is quite the opposite
Yeah, I shouldn't, but, obviously this one needed it.
+24 s/d?! That's way off. I don't tolerate more than +6 or -3 s/d variance.
sama exprnces with me. i gt both, 6r35 more accurate thn 4r
I have the new alpinist with the 6r35 and it’s horrible -50 a day. Started a month after purchasing on the first day it was only -2 and steadily declined over a month.
I keep mine strapless in a box and can’t even stand to wear it despite the fact that it’s my favorite watch, the experience has totally soiled it for me
I understand. As I may have mentioned in the video, I had 2 with 6R35s. The first I was able to regulate myself to about +1 to +2 s/d. The 2nd, which is this Willard, too far gone to salvage. This, I did a movement swap to 4r35 which I've found to be more reliable and it is indeed performing a lot better which brought back up the enjoyment of wearing that watch
@@khronokraze We salute you for your work, by the way. You are one of the few TH-cam channels which have highlighted the issue with the 6R movements.
Same experience as you! When I first got my spb363 . I was like "and I thought the 6r35 was shit" .. it was going +1 SPD.. then all of a sudden just decided to lose 30 seconds a day .. been doing that ever since .. it's only 3 months old . Or not even that .
If your watch is still under warranty (considering it's one of the new Alpinists), just return it and get a properly working one. -50 spd is well outside of Seiko's specs, if that's an average value measured over time while in use.
This is why you buy J versions...
LOL