How to get BETTER HDR results - Affinity Photo Tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- Learn how to get better HDR results in Affinity Photo. In this Tutorial, I will show you a very easy trick to get amazing HDR results with Affinity Photo.
00:00 Intro
00:42 Create HDR in Affinity Photo first Steps
01:03 What is Bracketing
01:25 What is HDR
01:39 What does HDR mean
01:55 HDR Settings in Affinity Photo
02:04 HDR Ghost removal easy
02:39 HDR tone mapping in Affinity Photo
03:04 HDR Presets for Affinity Photo
03:45 HDR tone compression
04:46 Local Contrast in HDR
05:57 avoid Halos in HDR
07:18 fix white balance in HDR
09:44 Micro Contrast in AP
My Facebook group: / oliviotutorials.superfan
My Newsletter: oliviotutorials.podia.com/new...
My Affinity Photo Creative Packs: gumroad.com/sarikasat
My Patreon Page: / sarikas
All my Social Media Accounts: linktr.ee/oliviotutorials - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you so much for this video which will encourage me to use this way of processing my many bracketted landscape scenes more often .
wow this was super helpful
Thank you!
This is fantastic
Excellent tutorial opening up new tools in APH. Can’t wait to try it out.
Thank you :) Always happy to open up some new angles
Brilliant as always :)
Thank you very much :)
Thanks Olivia…I’m a great believer in Tone Mapping -it’s been very helpful even just when applied to single JPGs . Will try again now with bracketing..😃
Awesome, i'm happy to hear that. Please post some of your tone mapping results in my facebook group. The bracketing is for HDR - keep that in mind when using it :)
That was very informative. Before I would before just use one pic, choose a preset, and call it a day. 👍
Thank you for giving info on 'Texture' in Affinity Photo. Very helpful.
I was really missing that feature in AP. Really happy I found it hidden in tone mapping
@000CloudStrife local contrast is similar to the "texture" slider in Lightroom
My first thought was that the local details effect seemed to work similar to clarity (and a quick google search reveals that there's a lot of discussion over when to use clarity vs. texture in Lightroom).
Is it a mistake to try and restrict this effect to different parts of the image? I often find myself masking clarity to particular areas, and I could potentially do the same with "local details" using a duplicate layer masked over an unmodified layer (although that would have to be applied "early" in the stack). But I'm still developing a sense of what "looks good" and I'm not sure if an experienced eye would think that looked really strange somehow.
I find that if you duplicate the original background layer you can apply tone mapping to the duplicate w/o affecting the original. From there you have blend options, etc., or the ability to just delete the tone mapped layer and start again. Thx.
hi Don, yes, that's a great way to have a backup :)
You mentioned to watch for halos around the building edges but didn't say anything about what to do if you have them. Any tips or tutorials for removing those halos?
Great video, I have a question for you, how can I use this workflow using DNG files? I am trying to merge raw files taken with my 360 camera from Insta360 and their stiching of HDr raw photos doesn't work well. Thanks, Rick
As always very informative. Great job. You are talking about the 'Neutral' preset, expecting that you get your original image. But it says 'Natural' and not 'Neutral'. Therefore, I think that the developer only wanted to give the user a preset that looks 'natural', not give you your original (reverted) photo back, from where you can ramp up the compression yourself. It then makes sense to me that the compression is at 100% (at full force) because it is designed as just one among other tone mapping presets, but with other tone mapping settings so it looks 'natural' (the same as some people do with photomatix: put the 'master' tone mapping slider at 100% and trying to get natural results with the rest of the sliders). But I am with you that there should be a 'neutral' preset so you can 'revert' to your original image quickly, if you have messed things up too much.
Oh! That's my dyslexia acting up. I was sure it says "neutral". But to be fair, the result is neither neutral nor natural - especially if you use tonal mapping on just one photo. I would think that for most HDR phoots it would probably look better to have it at 50 :)
Great timing as I've started to use the HDR merge feature. I've realized that in order to prepare for using this feature that I need to process my RAW images first in the Develop Persona otherwise there is no way I'm aware of to apply lens correction. I then save as 16 bit TIFF's and then HDR Merge. HDR Merge doesn't recognize the proprietary APhoto I think it is file extension. Incredibly odd.
Looking forward to your next Affinity Photo lessons... Merci, Danke mein Herr.
Awesome. Happy about the timing. Yes, that's true, if you need lens correction you need to go through raw development first. I'm also confused why lens correction does not work on jpgs - it's not as if they don't have exif data
@@OlivioSarikas If you open jpg with lens in a AP database just jump to Develop persona and back and you'll have lens correction with minimal time & effort and yes it will be better if it's automated.
Great stuff, Olivio. You da man.
By the way, do you prefer the Capture One and Affinity combination ... or the Lr & PS combination ... or another combination>
Cheers, Chuck (N.E. Florida) : +)
Thank you :) I don't have Capture One. I mostly use Photolab and AP with Nik Collection. But lately I also love to use Lightroom CC
One question: do you know what the "quality" slider means when exporting in affinity? I've been playing around with it, and going to 90 instead of 100 drastically reduces the file size without changing the resolution, but I can't tell what's different. What quality setting do you recommend when you're exporting a photo?
Great video btw!
With JPGs that is how much the image is going to be compressed. 85 is a pretty good settting, about 90 will not imrpove how the image looks but be much larger, below 75 you risk compression fragments in your image
At long last I knew something you did not :) However my adjustment panels have disappeared . Any ideas to how I get them back ? Have the same problem if I use the tone mapping persona .
I'm sure I pick up a trick or two while watching the whole video .
Cheers
Awesome! Good Job. For the panels: Have you tried pressing the Tabulator Key? Or try view -> studio -> reset studio
@@OlivioSarikas Thanks mate; have tried >view >reset studio . Tab key is working but showing any panels .
Carl Surry suggested similar in Affinity Photo Tutorials
All fixed via the Ap forum
Didn't realize there was a >view > studio for tone mapping .
Did a reset and now all back as it should be .
Thanks for your help
Where is the source file and pdf for the microworld course?
It as a PDF called "Image and Font list" as one of the download files. In there you find a list of links to the source files.
Once I export the picture and reopen it quality drops can you help me with this issue?
check the quality setting when you export as a jpg. usually setting it to 85 or 90 gives you good quality and a small file size
@@OlivioSarikas 🏆