Thank you for the video. This just saved me approx $800. That was the amount that Nikon quoted to remove the fungus that had grown on the surface of one of the lens groups in my Nikkor 24-70 mm lens. I finally got up the courage to do this process myself and had it completed, cleaned and re-assembled in less than an hour.
I had mine bought in 2010, in 2023 the glasses are still in stellar condition. No sign of any fungus growth. The trick is to keep it in a dry box at at 43%RH.
I have a hair on the inside of the rear lens. If i undo the screws like in the start of your video and remove it, clean the hair off will i get any focusing issues?
Hi, yes, I can give some advice. Is the sealed block plastic or metal? if plastic you can try this th-cam.com/video/XxVDBvCJOk0/w-d-xo.html if metal, you'll need to take it to a workshop and do it on a lathe.
You should advertise that the focus can change. I had to send it to nikon so they will adjust the focus again since the rear element when the focus is removed is no longer fine.
Exactamente IFC, tiene usted toda la razón, al desmontar el 4º bloque de lente, el que va fijado con tres tornillos el centrado de acutancia de foco queda desajustado y hay que realizar un reajuste posterior con una lente de colimación, al final para eliminar un muy leve problema de polvo que serguramente no influye en la fotos tomadas , acabas provocando un problema de desajuste que hara casi inservible el objetivo hasta pasar por un -servicio técnico que lo reajuste con el consiguiente costo. Lo único que hace este video es fastidiar a los incautos que puedan ser convencidos , y el desajuste es el menor de los problemas que pueden aparecer, el 4º bloque de lentes tiene una lente hibrida asferica con material blando poco resistente , que no puede limpiarse por frotamiento, si se engrasa al tocarla e intenta limpiarla acabará arañandola y provocando daños irreversibles, teniendo que ser sustituida, este tipo de repuesto no se consigue facilmente y si llega a encontrarse es extremadamente caro.
Exactly IFC, you are absolutely right, when disassembling the 4th lens block, the one that is fixed with three screws, the acutance of focus is misaligned and a subsequent readjustment must be made with a collimating lens, at the end to eliminate a very slight problem of dust that surely does not influence the photos taken, you end up causing a mismatch problem that will make the lens almost unusable until you go through a technical service that readjusts it with the consequent cost. The only thing this video does is annoy the unwary who may be convinced, and the mismatch is the least of the problems that can appear, the 4th block of lenses has an aspherical hybrid lens with soft material that is not very resistant, which cannot be cleaned by rubbing, if it gets greasy when you touch it and you try to clean it, it will end up scratching it and causing irreversible damage, having to be replaced, this type of spare part is not easily available and if it is found it is extremely expensive.
Hi interesting video for this very sold high end lens. Just 2 points : 1/ it s a pity you don’t t show how to retire the 3 screws in 6:30 and 2/ you seem not to have difficulty to unscrew a lend set at 7:55 and you don t use a scanner…. It s surprising it s so loose … can you confirm ?
Hello, for the 3 screws, my guess is I did it at an angle, use a thin screwdriver like the vessel J00, and for the next element, I mention in the video just after that it comes really easy. Salutations et bonne chance pour la réparation !
@@diyextravaganza moi le le trouve agréable à utiliser mais il est lourd. J essaie maintenant de me diriger vers des zoom plutôt à f4 ou des primes lumineux qui permettent de bien faire attention au cadrage.
@@philmtx3fr moi, aussi paradoxale que cela puisse paraître, je l'ai trouvé trop piqué pour mon goût. Mais je me suis orienté vers les focales fixes. Je te recommande les 35mm et le 58mm 1.4G, ils sont top.
The toothpick method doesn't convince me at all. the tolerances of the toothpicks are much too large for that. I still like the idea of centering. I tried centering with a laser. worked well, but there are also many things that create inaccuracies.
@@mofi3641 laser is the easiest way to get collimated light. I'm wondering how this was done before laser became common, but I guess they were using collimated light as well. I'll take a look later at some optics books to see if I find something else. Cheers.
You have to readjust the focus if the front element is removed. I never went that deep into the back of my lens, but I think that as long as the screws hold glass elements snugly it should be OK. It is where there is room for lateral adjustments you have to be very careful.
@@diyextravaganza In the repair manual it states that you have to. I tried to repair my decentered lens and I only made it worse, it's only good at f11 and up. Will wait till after the restrictions are lifted and drop it off at Nikon.
@@dario1965 Well I got the lens on the video good, but the tolerances where tight and everything came in place nicely, never done a decentered lens before, what's the problem, focus at infinity?
Diy extravaganza The lens was fine when I bought it, but I dropped it on carpeted floor from about 12 inches. I was changing lenses kneeling and it actually bounced off my legs before hitting the floor, so the impact was even less. The left side of the image is no longer as sharp as the right side, at any distance. BTW it’s my second 24-70f2.8 I dropped ):. The other one is totalled. I thought that putting shims would help the situation but it didn’t. When you start putting the front element back on, you will soon realize that the 3 openings for screws have room for micro adjustments, and I mean micro! The way I tried to get as precise placement as possible I centred the lens with a black screen in in photoshop and placed a photoshop tool that looks like a tiny white circle in the centre of the screen. I then defocused the lens and maneuvered the front element until the blurry glow of the circle overlaps the clear circle perfectly, without flaring in any direction. I was doing all that while verifying the live view and tightening the screws at the same time. It’s now fine on my 12 megapixels Nikon d700 but is not acceptable on the 36 megapixels d810. Before my humble attempts I sent it to Nikon, they said that they couldn’t repair it. I also sent it to an independent camera repair shop, they improved it but the left side was still off. So when I took things into my own hands the hell broke loose. I learned the hard way that some things are better left to professionals:)
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the video. This just saved me approx $800. That was the amount that Nikon quoted to remove the fungus that had grown on the surface of one of the lens groups in my Nikkor 24-70 mm lens. I finally got up the courage to do this process myself and had it completed, cleaned and re-assembled in less than an hour.
Excellent, maybe you can consider donating to the channel.
I had mine bought in 2010, in 2023 the glasses are still in stellar condition. No sign of any fungus growth. The trick is to keep it in a dry box at at 43%RH.
Grâce au tuto je me suis lancé et j'ai enlevé le champignon. Merci
C'est tout le but de cette chaîne, de vous permettre d'entretenir vos optiques. N'oubliez pas de partager avec tous vos amis. Salutations.
I have a hair on the inside of the rear lens. If i undo the screws like in the start of your video and remove it, clean the hair off will i get any focusing issues?
Hello, I don't think so. Regards.
I can't opening a sealed lens block Nikkor 24-70 F2.8G. If you do not mind, please give me some advice. Thanks
Hi, yes, I can give some advice. Is the sealed block plastic or metal? if plastic you can try this th-cam.com/video/XxVDBvCJOk0/w-d-xo.html if metal, you'll need to take it to a workshop and do it on a lathe.
@@diyextravaganza it is metal. Maybe i'll take it to a workshop and do it on a lathe. Thanks for reply.
You should advertise that the focus can change.
I had to send it to nikon so they will adjust the focus again since the rear element when the focus is removed is no longer fine.
Well, as long as the re-assembly is done exactly as before, there should be no issue at all.
Exactamente IFC, tiene usted toda la razón, al desmontar el 4º bloque de lente, el que va fijado con tres tornillos el centrado de acutancia de foco queda desajustado y hay que realizar un reajuste posterior con una lente de colimación, al final para eliminar un muy leve problema de polvo que serguramente no influye en la fotos tomadas , acabas provocando un problema de desajuste que hara casi inservible el objetivo hasta pasar por un -servicio técnico que lo reajuste con el consiguiente costo. Lo único que hace este video es fastidiar a los incautos que puedan ser convencidos , y el desajuste es el menor de los problemas que pueden aparecer, el 4º bloque de lentes tiene una lente hibrida asferica con material blando poco resistente , que no puede limpiarse por frotamiento, si se engrasa al tocarla e intenta limpiarla acabará arañandola y provocando daños irreversibles, teniendo que ser sustituida, este tipo de repuesto no se consigue facilmente y si llega a encontrarse es extremadamente caro.
Exactly IFC, you are absolutely right, when disassembling the 4th lens block, the one that is fixed with three screws, the acutance of focus is misaligned and a subsequent readjustment must be made with a collimating lens, at the end to eliminate a very slight problem of dust that surely does not influence the photos taken, you end up causing a mismatch problem that will make the lens almost unusable until you go through a technical service that readjusts it with the consequent cost. The only thing this video does is annoy the unwary who may be convinced, and the mismatch is the least of the problems that can appear, the 4th block of lenses has an aspherical hybrid lens with soft material that is not very resistant, which cannot be cleaned by rubbing, if it gets greasy when you touch it and you try to clean it, it will end up scratching it and causing irreversible damage, having to be replaced, this type of spare part is not easily available and if it is found it is extremely expensive.
Hi interesting video for this very sold high end lens. Just 2 points : 1/ it s a pity you don’t t show how to retire the 3 screws in 6:30 and 2/ you seem not to have difficulty to unscrew a lend set at 7:55 and you don t use a scanner…. It s surprising it s so loose … can you confirm ?
Hello, for the 3 screws, my guess is I did it at an angle, use a thin screwdriver like the vessel J00, and for the next element, I mention in the video just after that it comes really easy. Salutations et bonne chance pour la réparation !
@@diyextravaganza merci mais le mien est tout neuf donc propre ;)
@@philmtx3fr tant mieux 😊, tu l'apprécies cet objectif ?. Moi je l'ai désiré pendant longtemps et quand je l'ai eu, je n'ai pas aimé le rendu.
@@diyextravaganza moi le le trouve agréable à utiliser mais il est lourd. J essaie maintenant de me diriger vers des zoom plutôt à f4 ou des primes lumineux qui permettent de bien faire attention au cadrage.
@@philmtx3fr moi, aussi paradoxale que cela puisse paraître, je l'ai trouvé trop piqué pour mon goût. Mais je me suis orienté vers les focales fixes. Je te recommande les 35mm et le 58mm 1.4G, ils sont top.
GREAT!
Thanks !
At 7:52 what fork tool did you use? Do you have a link to purchase the tool?
Hello, I added some links for lens repair tools, the fork that I used is the lens spanner. Cheers !
@@diyextravaganza Thanks.
the second group lens require precise centering , im sure you lens now i decentered, and one sight is out of focus
It came out ok. Cheers.
What are the lights arms you are using.
Microscope lamp. Cheers.
Thank you for reply
@@AJITEM you're welcome
The toothpick method doesn't convince me at all. the tolerances of the toothpicks are much too large for that. I still like the idea of centering.
I tried centering with a laser. worked well, but there are also many things that create inaccuracies.
you're an engineer for sure. I've got myself a laser as well but haven't had time to build a proper alignment bench. Cheers.
@@diyextravaganza maybe net as good of an engineer as you are. i couldn't see any other solution for this aligning problem.
@@mofi3641 laser is the easiest way to get collimated light. I'm wondering how this was done before laser became common, but I guess they were using collimated light as well. I'll take a look later at some optics books to see if I find something else. Cheers.
Dust inside a lens is undetectable in an image
True.
You have to readjust the focus if the front element is removed. I never went that deep into the back of my lens, but I think that as long as the screws hold glass elements snugly it should be OK. It is where there is room for lateral adjustments you have to be very careful.
Tolerances are quite tight, so there is little room for any motion whatsoever, don't know about the front element, I have never removed it.
@@diyextravaganza In the repair manual it states that you have to. I tried to repair my decentered lens and I only made it worse, it's only good at f11 and up. Will wait till after the restrictions are lifted and drop it off at Nikon.
@@dario1965 Well I got the lens on the video good, but the tolerances where tight and everything came in place nicely, never done a decentered lens before, what's the problem, focus at infinity?
Diy extravaganza The lens was fine when I bought it, but I dropped it on carpeted floor from about 12 inches. I was changing lenses kneeling and it actually bounced off my legs before hitting the floor, so the impact was even less. The left side of the image is no longer as sharp as the right side, at any distance. BTW it’s my second 24-70f2.8 I dropped ):. The other one is totalled. I thought that putting shims would help the situation but it didn’t. When you start putting the front element back on, you will soon realize that the 3 openings for screws have room for micro adjustments, and I mean micro! The way I tried to get as precise placement as possible I centred the lens with a black screen in in photoshop and placed a photoshop tool that looks like a tiny white circle in the centre of the screen. I then defocused the lens and maneuvered the front element until the blurry glow of the circle overlaps the clear circle perfectly, without flaring in any direction. I was doing all that while verifying the live view and tightening the screws at the same time. It’s now fine on my 12 megapixels Nikon d700 but is not acceptable on the 36 megapixels d810. Before my humble attempts I sent it to Nikon, they said that they couldn’t repair it. I also sent it to an independent camera repair shop, they improved it but the left side was still off. So when I took things into my own hands the hell broke loose. I learned the hard way that some things are better left to professionals:)
@@dario1965 sounds like one optical element got slightly tilted.