Great video! I enjoyed watching your 770 in action (I've watched your older videos, didn't know until this morning that you bought a Tormach; obviously it's been a while). Regarding building bending jigs - to minimize machining, I'd face off the edges of 2-3 pieces of stock, drill, tap and then stack. Basically, let the band saw carry the load, then layer (thus, reduce wear on cutters and decrease machine hours). If all layers are flush, the compression between them wont effect the output of the press. Yeah, kinda screwed-up the order above and too lazy to re-type anything - but I'm sure you know what I mean.
Hi Craig great Vid you really know your business did you CNC your mill or did you get it done as I have the same mill and please what was the thickness of material you formed in the Press. Well Done
Great work Craig! My favorite thing is to make tools!! You should treat your self to an air powered version of the jack from HF. I put a knob on the release valve so that I could use just my fingers instead of the handle. Thanks!!
+Craig's Machine Shop you will be very happy with the HF air over jack. My friend down the road put one on his press a few years ago and it has been rock solid.
Hi Craig, Thanks for sharing. Looks like it will do the job. Don't know how important the center line hole is on the bracket. You could drill and tap a hole in the bottom die and install a threaded pin with top end sized to allow your center hole in your bracket to center on the locating pin. Just a thought. John
+helicopterjohns - Great idea John! I will have to try that. It will have to be real low profile because I didn't leave much room with the length of spring I ordered. I guess I don't need much though. Maybe 40 thou. If I had thought of it I could have machined it in. Thanks!
how are you locating the part in the center of the die, you have the hard stop in the back but not the side. a simple pin hole across the lower die with a pocket in the top die to match would be handy. have watched a few of your videos now, seems like you are really easy on the tools. do not be afraid to be agressive and take deeper DOC. I have an 1100 and push it pretty hard with .500 carbide rougher at .300 DOC .100 WOC at 25 ipm. when making all those counter bores drill a hole first. I predrill all mine with a .500 drill and then depending on the size I need to open it too I'll plunge right in the middle of it with the end mill. there is a setting in F360 to plunge in the center of a hole and it makes it great for this. no helical ramping which is slow, get to depth and get to cutting chips. keep the videos coming.
+Tim Yuhas - Thanks Tim! A recess in the upper die, that's a good idea. Yeah, I tend to be conservative when working with an expensive piece of stock. I will try to start pushing it a little more. If I predrill on the 770 I have to change to low gear because of low torque. Not so much of an issue on the 1100. I guess I could change the belt position and try next time. Thanks!
Unipunch has been around for 50-60 years. DME products have specialty pins and bearings of various hardness, They also sell die sets that you can add the shape dies of all sizes. Just type in either on the internet and go. Nice work by the way.
Thanks! I checked out DME. Looks like mostly mold equipment. I guess the pins and sleeves would work the same. Didn't see the die sets. Still debating whether I should buy a premade die set or make it.
That was a great job Craig! It's always nice to know that I'm not the only one that doesn't measure things correctly too. I hate it when that happens. It is way cool to see someone else machining some steel with their 770.
+Doug P - Yeah, springs are measured in OD and wire thickness. I didn't think to count the wire thickness twice since its diameter. Oh well, I have springs to add to my misc box. lol I think it cuts steel pretty good. Still seeing how hard I can push it. I am tending towards high speed machining. I am running at 120 IPM at 15 thou DOC on my steel plates. Getting closer to my target of 2.5 min per plate. I think my holding method isn't good for greater depths of cut. Too much noise.
like the idea of the separate base and sliding the bottom die on that centering it with the pins been looking at a sheetmetal finger brake for my shop press and the bottom die is usually welded to the plate wish makes it impossible to use it for anything else then bending sheetmetal , with the loose parts you can make add ons with less material as you reuse the same base this way of putting the thing together in sections makes it eazier to set it on and take it out of the shop press too (you dont have to lift the whole unit intoo the shop press but can stack it up in there one piece at the time )
Yeah, 2 upcoming videos will show my die holders and interchangeable sheet metal dies. I ended up buying a press brake that I have to take on and off. I should have just made one to put on the base I have but wasn't sure how to make the hardened top part. I just bought a 1" hot rolled drop from my metal supplier to put under the press brake.
Thanks! I wasn't sure it was going to even work and ended up working beyond my expectations. And the air compressor made it way better than that. I hope to make some sheet metal dies in the future
Very Cool Craig works like a champ, I do Have a couple suggestions that may help! One you could just put a set screw to hold the Press shaft to the top Die then when the press lifts so will the Die. Second Place a Scribe mark on the front to center the different lengths. Be Safe, Sam
+Crivo152 - Thanks Marco! Its a bracket for an electrical cover. I usually buy from Metal Depot or Online metals. I got this steel from McMaster Carr because I needed it fast. Che vediamo, Craig
Its perfectly acceptable to say thou for thousandths of an inch. Next, maybe to save on expensive end mills, try drilling thru the part first, then just circmill in counterbore. End mills last longer if you dont plunge cut too much, especially in a non-rigid machining setup, ie. light duty mill.
Nice die The top looks a little heavy Any reason for using such a thick piece Just thinking about cost I’ve been meaning to make a couple forming dies After watching your video I might be out in my shop soon
Very interesting. I am assuming you need dozens or hundreds of these brackets. That's quite costly and time consuming to mill those dies.. well done though and will last forever.
looks pretty "painful" to use, apart from the missing center locating pin that people talk about, here are some improvements - do a bit of redesigning and modify existing dyes to account for the material spring back, it is not a lot with this material, but it will look a lot more professional and not cheap if the center section is not bowed, minor thing, but the experience fixing this issue will probably help down the road, next - bottom face around the guide rods and the top dye, you can safely remove few centimeters there and put some valve springs from an engine to help lift the top dye to help with positioning a new work piece and removing a bent one, easy fix and will make working with the tool much easier p.s. as for the guide pins, to avoid expensive tool and dye stuff, since there is not much stress on them in this particular dye, use hydraulic rod stock, they are hard chrome plated and precision ground, may even come hardened, and they cost pretty much nothing
There are so many built in inaccuracies in this 'toolmaking, I don't know where to begin. The term 'thou' is spot on but any self respecting toolmaker can, and does use imperial AND metric. I have been using metric for 35 years, but the thou is still easier to use.
+Bigwingrider1800 - The keys on the tormach vise are within a thou on the t-slots when you push the vise forward. Yeah, I guess I should have checked but the accuracy on the project didn't seam to need it. I didn't expect to have to flip the part though. I'm still learning I guess. Thanks.
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I love your videos. Thank you for putting these together, especially using the Tormach mill.
Thanks Aaron!
Great video! I enjoyed watching your 770 in action (I've watched your older videos, didn't know until this morning that you bought a Tormach; obviously it's been a while).
Regarding building bending jigs - to minimize machining, I'd face off the edges of 2-3 pieces of stock, drill, tap and then stack. Basically, let the band saw carry the load, then layer (thus, reduce wear on cutters and decrease machine hours). If all layers are flush, the compression between them wont effect the output of the press.
Yeah, kinda screwed-up the order above and too lazy to re-type anything - but I'm sure you know what I mean.
With this kind of sofisticated equipment ,every thing is gonna perfect. Lucky guy .
Yeah, having the right equipment does make it easier. Thanks.
Hi Craig great Vid you really know your business did you CNC your mill or did you get it done as I have the same mill and please what was the thickness of material you formed in the Press. Well Done
only suggestion I would make is to add a pin to index the part in the die, so the part is centered properly when pressing
+John Galt - Yeah, on my list of mods. Thanks!
John Galt pp
Great work Craig! My favorite thing is to make tools!! You should treat your self to an air powered version of the jack from HF. I put a knob on the release valve so that I could use just my fingers instead of the handle. Thanks!!
+bluehandsvideo - Great Idea! Already picked it up in fact. Thanks!
+Craig's Machine Shop you will be very happy with the HF air over jack. My friend down the road put one on his press a few years ago and it has been rock solid.
+Doug P - Cool. I should have it in this weekend. Hope to go from 30 seconds to 10 seconds on the bends.
Hi Craig,
Thanks for sharing.
Looks like it will do the job. Don't know how important the center line hole is on the bracket. You could drill and tap a hole in the bottom die and install a threaded pin with top end sized to allow your center hole in your bracket to center on the locating pin.
Just a thought.
John
+helicopterjohns - Great idea John! I will have to try that. It will have to be real low profile because I didn't leave much room with the length of spring I ordered. I guess I don't need much though. Maybe 40 thou. If I had thought of it I could have machined it in. Thanks!
how are you locating the part in the center of the die, you have the hard stop in the back but not the side. a simple pin hole across the lower die with a pocket in the top die to match would be handy.
have watched a few of your videos now, seems like you are really easy on the tools. do not be afraid to be agressive and take deeper DOC. I have an 1100 and push it pretty hard with .500 carbide rougher at .300 DOC .100 WOC at 25 ipm.
when making all those counter bores drill a hole first. I predrill all mine with a .500 drill and then depending on the size I need to open it too I'll plunge right in the middle of it with the end mill. there is a setting in F360 to plunge in the center of a hole and it makes it great for this. no helical ramping which is slow, get to depth and get to cutting chips.
keep the videos coming.
+Tim Yuhas - Thanks Tim! A recess in the upper die, that's a good idea. Yeah, I tend to be conservative when working with an expensive piece of stock. I will try to start pushing it a little more. If I predrill on the 770 I have to change to low gear because of low torque. Not so much of an issue on the 1100. I guess I could change the belt position and try next time. Thanks!
Unipunch has been around for 50-60 years. DME products have specialty pins and bearings of various hardness, They also sell die sets that you can add the shape dies of all sizes. Just type in either on the internet and go. Nice work by the way.
Thanks! I checked out DME. Looks like mostly mold equipment. I guess the pins and sleeves would work the same. Didn't see the die sets. Still debating whether I should buy a premade die set or make it.
That was a great job Craig! It's always nice to know that I'm not the only one that doesn't measure things correctly too. I hate it when that happens. It is way cool to see someone else machining some steel with their 770.
+Doug P - Yeah, springs are measured in OD and wire thickness. I didn't think to count the wire thickness twice since its diameter. Oh well, I have springs to add to my misc box. lol I think it cuts steel pretty good. Still seeing how hard I can push it. I am tending towards high speed machining. I am running at 120 IPM at 15 thou DOC on my steel plates. Getting closer to my target of 2.5 min per plate. I think my holding method isn't good for greater depths of cut. Too much noise.
what courses to take and what equipment to buy in order to learn to this?
like the idea of the separate base and sliding the bottom die on that centering it with the pins
been looking at a sheetmetal finger brake for my shop press and the bottom die is usually welded to the plate wish makes it impossible to use it for anything else then bending sheetmetal , with the loose parts you can make add ons with less material as you reuse the same base
this way of putting the thing together in sections makes it eazier to set it on and take it out of the shop press too (you dont have to lift the whole unit intoo the shop press but can stack it up in there one piece at the time )
Yeah, 2 upcoming videos will show my die holders and interchangeable sheet metal dies. I ended up buying a press brake that I have to take on and off. I should have just made one to put on the base I have but wasn't sure how to make the hardened top part. I just bought a 1" hot rolled drop from my metal supplier to put under the press brake.
Good stuff man! I have a similar project on the to-do list and it's always a confidence boost to see someone else make it work.
Thanks! I wasn't sure it was going to even work and ended up working beyond my expectations. And the air compressor made it way better than that. I hope to make some sheet metal dies in the future
cant beleive i never saw this one before Craig.....good stuff ! hope youre staying safe
Yeah, that was a while ago. That thing is still going. Maybe 20,000 brackets now. Thanks, same!
Very Cool Craig works like a champ, I do Have a couple suggestions that may help!
One you could just put a set screw to hold the Press shaft to the top Die then when the press lifts so will the Die.
Second Place a Scribe mark on the front to center the different lengths.
Be Safe,
Sam
+CNC4XR7 - Great Ideas Sam! I will have to try them out. Thanks!
Thanks for making the videos! Really like 'em.
+John Doe - Thanks John!
Excellent heavy work there with the 770!
+PartisanGuerrilla - Thanks! Yeah, it is quite the machine.
Very nice Craig! What is the part for, and where do you buy your steel? Ciao, Marco.
+Crivo152 - Thanks Marco! Its a bracket for an electrical cover. I usually buy from Metal Depot or Online metals. I got this steel from McMaster Carr because I needed it fast. Che vediamo, Craig
Thank you for sharing, great videos, you rock!
Wow, thanks!
Its perfectly acceptable to say thou for thousandths of an inch.
Next, maybe to save on expensive end mills, try drilling thru the part first, then just circmill in counterbore. End mills last longer if you dont plunge cut too much, especially in a non-rigid machining setup, ie. light duty mill.
I been watching alot of your videos today and telling friends to watch. Got anymore videos on the horrible freight press set up you have?
Thanks! Just the videos on my channel. A number of them are about the press.
Love the video great work.
You need some fireproofing on your back wall.
Thanks, Michael! Yeah, I drywalled the shop already.
best teaching video ever
Thanks!
Nice work Craig.
+Jason Hughes - Thanks Jason.
thanks for the inspiration
Sure thing!
That turned out great!
+Tim Robel - Thanks Tim. It turned out better then I thought!
Great work Craig! Love the videos.
+Impyman18 - Thanks!
beautiful job, this is the kinda stuff that got me started on cnc machining. Did you make the shafts or store bought and from where?
Thanks! I bought them from McMaster Carr but they were pretty expensive. I would use something else if I could do it again.
I saw the yellow sticker on the rectangular stock! I also mostly buy from online metals
Where did you get those guide rods and whats the proper name for them?
Linear Motion Shaft from McMaster Car
If you don't mind, could you tell us what the part you bent is for? Thanks
+gertzadik - Its a bracket for a cover.
Nice die
The top looks a little heavy
Any reason for using such a thick piece
Just thinking about cost
I’ve been meaning to make a couple forming dies
After watching your video I might be out in my shop soon
Thanks! I have no engineering experience so I have to over engineer things. I will use scraps from my metal supplier from now on though.
Hi Craig great video thanks
+Kevin L - Thanks Kevin!
Awesome! Keep em coming Craig!
+RippsGarageTech - Thanks! Will do
Is this the guy from Nerds the movie?
And the purpose of your comment is?
great job .
+gene K - Thanks!
Do you do custom work for people??? I need some louver sets made for my Roper Whitney foot press.. Thanks!
Yes I do. You can contact me at info@onlinecoversdirect.com
Mantap Tool maker
That is way cool!
+Hirudin - Thanks! It took a while but it will be worth it!
sir what's the materials good for die?
The die is cold rolled steel. The brackets are hot rolled steel.
I love my job i mis u my job .....😍😍
Very interesting. I am assuming you need dozens or hundreds of these brackets. That's quite costly and time consuming to mill those dies.. well done though and will last forever.
I think we have made over 10,000 brackets now. Well worth it to make.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 Wow 10,000 thats quite a run. Easy to see why you went through the work🙂
looks pretty "painful" to use, apart from the missing center locating pin that people talk about, here are some improvements - do a bit of redesigning and modify existing dyes to account for the material spring back, it is not a lot with this material, but it will look a lot more professional and not cheap if the center section is not bowed, minor thing, but the experience fixing this issue will probably help down the road, next - bottom face around the guide rods and the top dye, you can safely remove few centimeters there and put some valve springs from an engine to help lift the top dye to help with positioning a new work piece and removing a bent one, easy fix and will make working with the tool much easier
p.s. as for the guide pins, to avoid expensive tool and dye stuff, since there is not much stress on them in this particular dye, use hydraulic rod stock, they are hard chrome plated and precision ground, may even come hardened, and they cost pretty much nothing
Thanks for the tips! I have implemented a few of these items already. Yeah, the guide pins were way too much. I will try the Hydraulic rod stock.
There are so many built in inaccuracies in this 'toolmaking, I don't know where to begin. The term 'thou' is spot on but any self respecting toolmaker can, and does use imperial AND metric. I have been using metric for 35 years, but the thou is still easier to use.
👌
+Peter Dahlman - Thanks Peter!
Other than that, cool shit man!
hope you have a 1000 brackets to make to justify the tool!
Thanks! I think I have made about 3000-4000 so far. Hope to need about 300-400 a week in the future.
You may want to chk you vise tram....
+Bigwingrider1800 - The keys on the tormach vise are within a thou on the t-slots when you push the vise forward. Yeah, I guess I should have checked but the accuracy on the project didn't seam to need it. I didn't expect to have to flip the part though. I'm still learning I guess. Thanks.
Hello sar
Yo
Google.com
Just subbed, i love this channel, please make more!
Thanks Mario! Hope to soon.