I didn't understand the part where you talked about sizing your sliding dovetail. You said to cut off a little bit of the side supports but earlier you said to go ahead and cut them off because they were no longer needed. As far as where you say, don't let the dovetail touch the bottom of the "dovetail channel", wouldn't you just make the dados like a 32nd shallower than your 3/8" dovetail channel? This all may be obvious to a seasoned wood worker but I'm a newb. Thanks.
I'm making these for the first time as I film; this is a new idea for me. When sizing the dovetail it would be easier to remove some (~1/2” or so) of the side supports so that you can test fit the male dovetail in the dovetail channel. And if it’s too snug adjust the router fence accordingly and remove more of the sidewalls of the dovetail (male). Also, when making the dovetail (male), the height of the bit will determine if it contacts the bottom of the dovetailed channel; this is easier to get right then the side to side fit of the dovetail (the bit should be slightly lower than what is used to make the dovetail channel). After the dovetail fits nicely with a test fit, the remaining side supports can be removed. I could have explained this better in the video ;)
Thanks for the quick reply. Just subscribed by the way. As for the height of the male dovetail, since you removed most of the material with a dado, wouldn't the height of the dado determine the height of the male dovetail and if so, would that need to be a little less than the dovetail channel. Probably sounds like I am just being a troll or something but I promise you, I am not.
No, these are great questions. The height of the dado should be less than the targeted male dovetail height. The dovetail bit should make the last cuts that form the dovetail. Also, the dovetail bit should clean (flatten) the surface between the side supports and the male dovetail.
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I really like this idea! It might be a better choice than routed t-tracks in many cases. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Yep. That is so much cheaper than commercial clamps. Epic job!!!!
That's a very cool way to mount and use toggle clamps!
Very cool. Matchfit system should make this easier.
Totally going to make these!
A cheap alternative to dovetail clamps for sure. Thanks.
That us a great idea!
Thanks for all that you do!
Thanks for checking it out!
What a great idea thanks for sharing have a blessed day
Good job, congratulations from Brazil
Simple and excellent... Big hug from Brasil Said Choucair
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the hug. :)
Genius!
Nice job 👍
I didn't understand the part where you talked about sizing your sliding dovetail. You said to cut off a little bit of the side supports but earlier you said to go ahead and cut them off because they were no longer needed. As far as where you say, don't let the dovetail touch the bottom of the "dovetail channel", wouldn't you just make the dados like a 32nd shallower than your 3/8" dovetail channel? This all may be obvious to a seasoned wood worker but I'm a newb. Thanks.
I'm making these for the first time as I film; this is a new idea for me. When sizing the dovetail it would be easier to remove some (~1/2” or so) of the side supports so that you can test fit the male dovetail in the dovetail channel. And if it’s too snug adjust the router fence accordingly and remove more of the sidewalls of the dovetail (male). Also, when making the dovetail (male), the height of the bit will determine if it contacts the bottom of the dovetailed channel; this is easier to get right then the side to side fit of the dovetail (the bit should be slightly lower than what is used to make the dovetail channel). After the dovetail fits nicely with a test fit, the remaining side supports can be removed. I could have explained this better in the video ;)
I added my reply above to the video description. I should have made this more clear in the video.
Thanks for the quick reply. Just subscribed by the way. As for the height of the male dovetail, since you removed most of the material with a dado, wouldn't the height of the dado determine the height of the male dovetail and if so, would that need to be a little less than the dovetail channel. Probably sounds like I am just being a troll or something but I promise you, I am not.
No, these are great questions. The height of the dado should be less than the targeted male dovetail height. The dovetail bit should make the last cuts that form the dovetail. Also, the dovetail bit should clean (flatten) the surface between the side supports and the male dovetail.
Great Idea
Good idea.
Great!!!
Killer