Mechatro WeGo Pt 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2023
- This is an edited video from Ep 10 Live Streams (July 25, 2021) showcasing OPR weathering via section-by-section over new rust layers on the right manipulator arm and the right leg.
This is an excellent exercise for mecha builders looking to transition into weathered builds.
Link to Ep 10 Live Stream: th-cam.com/users/liveURRKHA9L...
*Click the Playlist tab to watch all the videos on the MechaTro WeGo projects
SUBSCRIBE & SUPPORT ~
Books: www.rinaldistudiopress.com
Instagram: / rinaldistudio
Patreon: / rinaldistudiopress
BRUSHES & PAINTS ~
KINGART affiliate -- www.kingartco.com?ref=PWAoY
Main brush:
9020 Series, Golden Taklon Ultra Round #2 (5-6x recommended)
Blending brushes:
9400 Series, Golden Taklon Angular Shader - 1/8 size
9120 Series, Golden Taklon Flat Grass Comb - 1/8 & 1/4 sizes
Additional recommended brushes:
5/0 Spotter, #2 Filbert, #2 Shader, #0 Chisel Blender, 10/0 Liner
OIL PAINTS ~ Gamblin 1980 Series
Titanium White & Buff
Olive Green
Neutral Grey
Payne's Grey
Van Dyke Brown
Transparent Red Oxide & Yellow Ochre
Chromium Oxide Green
Prussian Blue
Lamp Black
Gamsol Thinner (Odorless mineral spirits)
Paper Towel (white to see colors used, brown for clear liquids)
Hair Dryer (low heat setting) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
"Jump on the speckle train" - T-shirts available soon in the RSP store
Yes! xD
I'm liking this series. For the purpose of identification, this isn't a "power loader". The back story behind this mech suit is found in the designer's intent. Designer Kazushi Kobayashi wanted a theme that departed from the war-focused theme as we have with Ma.K and most Gundam subjects. The backstory of these machines describe them as being developed by CHUBU Mechatronics as personal transportation for children within a dystopian future in which simply walking to and from school, etc. is neither safe nor practical.
I took the Power Arm designation and turned into my dock workers for a new diorama project.
And yes, the back story of his work is very worthwhile.
@@rs.pThat's the great thing about these subjects. Being fictitious, they lend themselves to all sorts of "non-canon" artistic impressions. At the IPMS Nationals this year, some guy had done a Ma.K suit as a Home Depot stock boy handling toilet stock on shelves. Funny stuff.
What do you recommend for the clear primer?
MMP was used here, worked great. 👍
Thanks so much! I’ll have to pick some up.
Is there any worry about the thinner at the beginning of the OPR process having an adverse effect on the Lifeclour acrylic rust tones?
No... :) Non-aggressive solvent thinner over acrylic is a tried and true reliable process.
@@rs.p Thanks Mike 👍🏻
are you saying clear primer because you prefer not to use lacquer based product, I would think a clear lacquer would bite the plastic well. Also these videos are AWESOME!
You've missed the conversations where I talk about not using lacquers...I don't use those toxic paints anymore. For the record, water-based primers work just as well.
You're priming the plastic, same as any other model, then use a clear matte paint to set the surface for the oils, same as a normal paint job. The difference here is the color is in the plastic though, which is useful for a huge portion of mecha/gunpla models out there. Again, all of this was discussed shared and talked about at length during those live streams if you'd like to hear the full conversation. Click the Mecha Playlist, you'll find them all there.
@@rs.p Really appreciate the thoughtful reply. Just bought a bunch of the brushes you linked. Trust me I get you. I spent almost $2k on a 3M Versaflo TR-800 because I always have some facial hair and I like to be able to breathe normally. The air flow over the face is actually really pleasant. I also have a Pace spray booth. Like $2.5k total to ensure I am not breathing that stuff in lol!
I applaud your efforts, but know the newer water-based generation of paints are outstanding and can be made to dance as well as lacquers. Sure there's a learning curve in switching, but your answer above is enough to know I don't think the value difference is no longer re. durability. It's a mental game today vs. the reality of the products.
We'll get into the paints more too, I go over some amazing traits on my Re100 GP04 rebuild project (Ep.5 gets into somewhat) of just adding their Poly into the paint and being able to buff a superb scale gloss, plus the paint is turned into a urethane and that's as durable, if not more so, than a lacquer. Good times ahead!
@@rs.pIt's probably heresy these days to speak of pedestrian products in this age of boutique paints and weathering products, but I use old Fashioned Pledge Future as an acrylic additive to both thin it and as a flow improver. It also provides durability to acrylics. It works amazing, even with cheap craft store acrylic paints.
FYI... With Future now out of production, I find that Holloway House Quick Shine has a very similar formulation to Future and works well for the same applications.