I have made these before but they always fell short. My daughter just informed me she needs one for her large photo prints. You didn't disappoint! This is perfect: the instructions are clear and the details are excellent. Thanks!
Comme plusieurs autres, je pourrais vous regarder pendant des heures! Votre agilité m'inspire et m'impressionne à la fois. Vous êtes comme un magicien de la reliure!
Thank you so much for explaining the bench hook. I’ve wanted on and couldn’t figure out how it was constructed- well similar enough to my wood cutting print making bench hook. 🙏🏽😆
The support material you provide is something of incalculable value. I am very grateful for your kindness and dedication to teaching and sharing knowledge.
I dicovered you on youtube for two days and i loved your work, arts . Thanks for shere this! That is my hobby, i am retired and learnd so many about the encadernatio world. I leave in São Paulo, Brasil, we have also tallent people in this work! Good luck and health!
perfect like always! my entire school in Poland appreciates your work and thanks to your guide we did a lot of homework perfectly!!!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TRANSMISSION OF KNOWLEDGE
Finally took the plunge and made this - it turned out beautifully thanks to your clear instruction (and very handy excel sheet!). Thank you for this incredible guide!
D, This video about making a portfolio is superb!! Thank you so much for the clear instructions and especially the spread sheet. Your bench skills are admirable and I've learned a ton just watching...especially your paper cutting techniques. (I have also made a bench hook.) My second portfolio turned out beautifully and I was able to place it on my IG (as a bookbinder) with a tattered book inside. Again, thank you and stay healthy please.
That's great! I really like portfolios - they're fast:) I've got one to do this week. Not sure how much external work I'll have going forward for awhile! You stay safe too. DAS
Hello! Here I am again... dreaming while watching you do your magic... It is raining a lot outside, and the night is calm and fresh... I do feel so calm watching you working... I do learn a lot. I am trying my first baby steps in bookbinding. Even though I am a grandmother of 3. The pandemic changes my habits. I cannot go anywhere, so I watch videos like yours, the bookbinding masters. I first think of learning bookbinding to restore my old books. But as I see so many beautiful hand-sewn books I decided to give it a try. Little by little... My press is an old and heavy brick and a marble piece I got at the trash bin around the corner... I do have some basic tools, some common to my sewing room. Hope someday after all these hard days are gone I can get some presential classes. Wish you live closer. I do live in Brazil. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Best regards. 🙏💙
Hi! Always wonderful to hear from beautiful Brazil! Really glad the videos are helping deal with these tough times. Happy binding and take care! Darryn
I can't believe TH-cam is free. This is amazing. Your craftsmanship and instruction are impeccable. And the reference book and spreadsheet will be very useful. I thought the number 1 and number two boards could be a nice place for some marbled paper. I went back but couldn't find if you mentioned the covering material; it appears to be an imitation leather. Did you simply attach the labels on the front and spine with PVA? Thanks for this video!
Those pieces of paper come into direct contact with the book. So you want something as benign as possible. I don't mention the paper I use because it's no longer made, but it's a high rag content pH neutral paper that is also soft. Some people use felt, but you have to add that into thickness calculations. The cover material is Arbelave bookcloth, which is maybe my favourite. Extremely functional. And yes, I use PVA to apply the labels. If I applied leather labels I use mix (PVE and paste). Happy binding! DAS
Currently I am trying to make one myself, and I have some questions: 1. How wide are the edge ties? 5 mm? 2. The smaller, trapezoidal flaps are a little less wide than the short edge of the baseboard and the inner flap (board 2) is also a little less tall than the long edge of the baseboard. This means that 2 of the corners of the baseboard do not align nicely with the edges of the small flaps and board 2, right? How do you cope with that? Anyway, I find these videos extremely useful, giving me the confidence to try it myself. Thank you!
Great work. The video explains every single detail. Thanks for sharing. The spreadsheet is fantastic. No calculations about the measures makes the job easier.
This was outstanding! There is nothing like watching a Master Maker do what he does best. I stumbled across your channel quite by accident but boy am I glad I did! I'm just starting my journey into bookbinding and your videos are simply superb and you do an excellent job supplying links and info for each project. Many Many Thanks!
Very well done. Links to additional explanations were very useful, especially the link to M.Brown book. I appreciate your work. Also the comment about magnetic closure seems to me a good suggestion.
Thanks! I've got a book waiting for a portfolio. Just waiting to see if the customer is okay with a magnetic closure and I'll probably video just the installation of the magnets. Maybe I should do a practice first before doing it for a customer:)
Since you’re an Aussie and I’m a Swede, I hope you’ll make a video of your take on the Solander Box some day. 😊👍🏻 Had he invented the box style for his specimens already on the Endeavour, or did he not do that until at the British Library? 🤔
This is a long story. I have started to go down this rabbit hole and it is a complex story. I just don't have the time to get to the bottom of it. The clam shell enclosure I have a video on is sometimes called a Solander box, but it's not for the reasons you mention. Maybe someone will give me a grant to spend time in London studying them.
@@DASBookbinding 😊👍🏻 You go to London, I’ll go to Uppsala. 😄 Your clamshell box is gorgeous, and I’m thinking of trying my hand at making a few for some of my grandfather’s oldest and most fragile books, perhaps even modified to a mock rounded spine with raised bands. The Solander boxes I’ve seen have a bottom tray with four walls, but with the fourth wall having an opening for handling (literally putting the hand in) the contents. You show so many good techniques for covering difficult shapes that I’m getting more confident that I might actually pull off a pretty good one, as long as I do as DAS does. 😄
Hello Sir, I apologise for being a late comer to your channel; thank so much for your hard work and willingness to share your craft. I have lots of papers and such where I can apply this project. What is your opinion about the use of preservation/archival paper, or cloth, for the lining..? Or if it is necessary..? How well will it glue-up, and would glue impact the preservation capabilities of the paper/cloth..? Thank you for your kind consideration.
I use a high grade EVA specifically made for conservation work. But most PVA made for use with paper will be fine. Just leave it dry open for about a week before putting a book in it. All the paper and cloth I use are pH neutral or slightly alkaline. I try to avoid heavily buffered paper. Most products that are sold in the consumer space that make a big deal about being "archival" are mostly marketing. They're fine to use.
33:45 Did you consider filing the empty space between the cloth turn-ins before gluing in the prettier lining sheets? 🤔😊 (This is where the misplaced comment should have been. 😏)
0:59 Is that a stack of three-holed US half-letter paper that you have bound yourself? Did you use the holes for some kind of sewing, or did you just glue the spine egde like a double-fan/perfect binding? I have several ring binders of texts that would become more compact without the binders, and I'm asking myself if I should cut the holes off and make glued books from them. But here it looks OK with the holes still there. 🤔
No. It originally came in a ring binder. Someone scanned it. I printed it as sections and sewed it. I would leave the holes and just double-fan it. So you see the holes. But that's better than having a tight inner margin.
Are the components used in these videos archival? The grey cardboard seems to be standard wood-pulp acid card that comes from cheap stationery supplies? Framing art works use acid free components. The amount of work that goes into these boxes surely means the box should not damage the contents by being acid.
I like the ties because I think they are the least bulky option. The book suggests buttons on the side but these are bulky and would rub on books next to it. You could play around with things like coming out the edge of the board or the side board. But the ribbon is very thin and I don;t think the idea I mentioned would be as strong or aesthetically pleasing. Or if it is shelved with books you could go without.
@@DASBookbinding I had thought about doing with out .well good to have options I suppose 😄. Thanks for this . I do have a request for a video of I wanted to make book cloth at home might you do a video on the subject. Don't know if I want to do the iron on adhesive rout how was this done traditionally?
Good one John! I made my first portfolio enclosure over 20 years ago, and those strong little magnets weren't available then. So I'm sort of attached to the ties because of my way of doing things. But things do move forward. There was a book or something that came out awhile back on doing creative things with magnets. Because of this I ordered a bunch of them - all different sizes - from China. And I keep forgetting I've got them. I think that's a great idea for this enclosure. I've had another job come in for one of these enclosures. I'll give them a go. I'll video it and if I don't stuff it up I'll make a short video on it:)
Question- in my adventures, I have found a very old (and somewhat valuable- $60 US as-is) book that is in very bad shape- It has been reduced to just a text block with some remnants of binding. Would an enclosure like this work to preserve it, or would you suggest something else?
It could work. For books that have lost their soundness due to age and use a clamshell enclosure might be better. If the book has lost its boards and has shoulders then some acid free binders board or mill board can be cut to size and used in their place to protect the shoulders. I love unrestored books. I think they are very worth keeping.
I am having trouble with one of the measurements. The board that becomes 4&5. My book dimensions are 19.9 x 19.9 x .5. The total length of board is coming up in the spreadsheet at 19.9 (calculated at baseboard 1 - 3). It doesn't meet when its closed, the distance between them is 3 (I'm working in centimetres). So I'm wondering what the "3" in the calculation is supposed to represent. Thanks! Great video.
Sorry, I need to change the spreadsheet to make it clear to use mm. The 3 you mention is 3mm and just adds a bit of space either side of the object so it doesn't get crushed at the edges.
Is there a way to create nice titles in these portfolios? Like stenciling letters into the material and then fill it up with paint? I feel it's prettier than a label on the front.
Paper labels are very traditional and I like them. But I also use hot foil in a foiling machine. But it is not a hobby solution. There are a couple of hobby/craft type solutions. One involves a laser printer and laminator and the other a Cricut machine. I really don't know the details but I hope that is enough information for you to search for them on Google. Good luck!
Very good tutorial! The only trouble I've run into is that the piece of covering material needed is very large. Is it possible to make the portfolio out of smaller pieces of book cloth?
There are other designs. This is the one I like. The top and bottom flaps don't have to meet in the centre and can be shortened. Kathy Abbott has another design in her book which uses a number of pieces instead of one large piece of covering material. Good luck! DAS
I was led here on a search for an enclosure for a set of orchestral parts (sheet music and scores) - this looks perfect provided it scales up. What thickness board would you recommend for a stack of sheet music 364mm tall, 280mm wide, and 50mm thick? Or is there another enclosure better suited- also with something this big would ribbon still be preferred for closing or something stronger?
I would use either 2.4mm or 3mm for something this size. For that thickness I would consider making a clamshell enclosure. I have a video on this. Ribbons work well for me. I have experimented with strong magnets. They work really well too, but it takes me longer to muck around with these than ribbons, and thus don't use them much. www.talasonline.com/paper-and-board/bookbinding
I know this is an older video. But what if you need one like these for quite a big piece of art? The preferred material I found is only as big as one meter, and the piece is 60CM. Is there a way to eloquently attach two pieces of cloth together?
In Kathy Abbott's book she does a version where the flaps are added separately. It's a good idea for a video, if I could just get started again. I'm very very close. DAS
Thanks! There are a few questions that I'm expecting. They are things I've thought about myself. Just about every time I make one of these I wonder, could I cut a full lining and get it in place with nice 3mm margins all round. I'm sure I couldn't. The bit of uncertainty in the material that goes into the joints is a deal breaker. But could it be done? I think how I would do it is start by cutting out fitting to the base board and width of the flaps, but not the lengths of the flaps or the tapper. I'd glue onto the base board and over the wall boards and into the joints, but not onto the flaps. I'd then cut the lengths of the flaps based on how it fits and the tappers on the half flaps. Finally glue down the flaps. I'd probably still line the base board and inner flap with paper, and thus a bit needs to be added to the wall heights. It sounds like it should be faster and less messing about cutting 4 pieces of cloth and the inside overlaps. But I suspect getting that lining down onto the base board so the flaps line up nicely will be difficult. Give it a go and let me know how it goes!
Hi, perhaps I'm mistaken but the calculated measurements on the spread sheet don't seem right - maybe I'm doing something wrong? My book is 16 high, 10.9 wide and 4 deep. I've put in the board thickness as 0.2cm and the covering material at 0.03cm and lining material as 0.02cm. To start with the baseboard is calculated at 19 high, 13.9 wide. Is the portfolio supposed to be quite a bit larger than the book?
Depends on the thickness of board and covering material. I think I remember I use the same board as the enclosure is made of and 5 layers of bookcloth. Good luck! DAS
Hi Judy. Conservators humidify paper and then press (usually lightly for standalone documents) to remove wrinkles. In your case usually with a bit of medium pressure as the moisture equalises the wrinkles will go away - maybe. Traditionally bookbinders used thin zinc plates they called tins for putting inside boards etc when pressing. I use them all the time, but mine are 05mm galvanised steel plates. It might help to put something stiff like tins either side of the wrinkled pages, with blotting paper either side of the pages, and some pressure for a few days. If the wrinkles still won't come out it is because the fibres have been set in a new position and need to be able to move again with some moisture. Humidify some blotting paper by putting it in a sealed container with some water. But don;t get the blotter wet, just let it soak in some humidity. Put a moisture barrier either side of the wrinkled pages (preferably tins) and then interleave the wrinkled pages with the humidified blotter. Leave like this a few hours with light pressure. Then remove the blotters and replace with dry blotter and press under medium to high pressure. Replace the blotters at least daily. Just be careful when pressing not to damage the spine and binding. Hope this helps! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thankfully, this is not a rare or historical book. The perfectionist in me wants it to be pristine. However, if it's not, I'm mature enough to deal with it. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Judy
I just print it out on nice paper on my Inkjet. Nothing fancy. But I have a project in mind which will have a paper label and I'll show the small bit of detail in that video. It will be a slightly more complex, and interesting, label. I glue them on with PVA to make them stick really well. You often see old books missing paper labels because the glue has failed. DAS
Myself. I buy it in bulk from a paper wholesaler and then I re-sell it. If you're in the US I'd recommend Talas and Davey Board and I think Hewit's in the UK have board too. Or if you're in Brisbane I sell it from the bindery. DAS
I have made these before but they always fell short. My daughter just informed me she needs one for her large photo prints. You didn't disappoint! This is perfect: the instructions are clear and the details are excellent. Thanks!
Comme plusieurs autres, je pourrais vous regarder pendant des heures! Votre agilité m'inspire et m'impressionne à la fois. Vous êtes comme un magicien de la reliure!
I could watch you work for hours. This is the perfect solution for art folio projects.
Thank you so much for explaining the bench hook. I’ve wanted on and couldn’t figure out how it was constructed- well similar enough to my wood cutting print making bench hook. 🙏🏽😆
the fast footage really makes it look like you're about to slice off your fingers while squaring the boards!
great video
I've only cut one finger off so far:) DAS
I like a safety straight edge for cutting. I work at a museum and hate bleeding on artwork ;)
I’m gonna make a couple of these before I make the one for a series of unframed art pieces. Thank you so very much. ❤
The support material you provide is something of incalculable value. I am very grateful for your kindness and dedication to teaching and sharing knowledge.
Thank you for the video, What a wonderful way to do the project for a preservation of a portfolio of work.
I dicovered you on youtube for two days and i loved your work, arts . Thanks for shere this! That is my hobby, i am retired and learnd so many about the encadernatio world. I leave in São Paulo, Brasil, we have also tallent people in this work! Good luck and health!
Always wonderful to hear from Brazil! Happy binding! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thanks!
@@DASBookbinding Good morning! What's the name of the fabric you used to cover the product
perfect like always! my entire school in Poland appreciates your work and thanks to your guide we did a lot of homework perfectly!!!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TRANSMISSION OF KNOWLEDGE
That's great!
Thank you. Your description of the steps are well explained. The close ups helped a lot.
Thanks! I've been working on another video for weeks and the close ups and different angles are driving me nuts.
Finally took the plunge and made this - it turned out beautifully thanks to your clear instruction (and very handy excel sheet!). Thank you for this incredible guide!
D,
This video about making a portfolio is superb!! Thank you so much for the clear instructions and especially the spread sheet. Your bench skills are admirable and I've learned a ton just watching...especially your paper cutting techniques. (I have also made a bench hook.) My second portfolio turned out beautifully and I was able to place it on my IG (as a bookbinder) with a tattered book inside. Again, thank you and stay healthy please.
That's great! I really like portfolios - they're fast:) I've got one to do this week. Not sure how much external work I'll have going forward for awhile! You stay safe too. DAS
A very well described process. Inspiring. Many thanks
Henry
Bristol UK
This is exactly what I need to keep my family tree research in thank you so much! ♡
Excellent series. This is exactly something I wanted to learn!
Hello! Here I am again... dreaming while watching you do your magic... It is raining a lot outside, and the night is calm and fresh... I do feel so calm watching you working...
I do learn a lot. I am trying my first baby steps in bookbinding. Even though I am a grandmother of 3. The pandemic changes my habits. I cannot go anywhere, so I watch videos like yours, the bookbinding masters. I first think of learning bookbinding to restore my old books. But as I see so many beautiful hand-sewn books I decided to give it a try. Little by little... My press is an old and heavy brick and a marble piece I got at the trash bin around the corner... I do have some basic tools, some common to my sewing room. Hope someday after all these hard days are gone I can get some presential classes. Wish you live closer. I do live in Brazil. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Best regards. 🙏💙
Hi! Always wonderful to hear from beautiful Brazil! Really glad the videos are helping deal with these tough times. Happy binding and take care! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for your answer! 💙💙💙😍 I will keep trying!
Wonderful tutorial. Thank you
I can't believe TH-cam is free. This is amazing. Your craftsmanship and instruction are impeccable. And the reference book and spreadsheet will be very useful.
I thought the number 1 and number two boards could be a nice place for some marbled paper.
I went back but couldn't find if you mentioned the covering material; it appears to be an imitation leather. Did you simply attach the labels on the front and spine with PVA?
Thanks for this video!
Those pieces of paper come into direct contact with the book. So you want something as benign as possible. I don't mention the paper I use because it's no longer made, but it's a high rag content pH neutral paper that is also soft. Some people use felt, but you have to add that into thickness calculations.
The cover material is Arbelave bookcloth, which is maybe my favourite. Extremely functional. And yes, I use PVA to apply the labels. If I applied leather labels I use mix (PVE and paste).
Happy binding!
DAS
Currently I am trying to make one myself, and I have some questions:
1. How wide are the edge ties? 5 mm?
2. The smaller, trapezoidal flaps are a little less wide than the short edge of the baseboard and the inner flap (board 2) is also a little less tall than the long edge of the baseboard. This means that 2 of the corners of the baseboard do not align nicely with the edges of the small flaps and board 2, right? How do you cope with that?
Anyway, I find these videos extremely useful, giving me the confidence to try it myself. Thank you!
Great work. The video explains every single detail. Thanks for sharing. The spreadsheet is fantastic. No calculations about the measures makes the job easier.
🤩😊💖👍🏻 Great work learned a lot from you mr Darrel spectacular video❣️💫✨
This was outstanding! There is nothing like watching a Master Maker do what he does best. I stumbled across your channel quite by accident but boy am I glad I did! I'm just starting my journey into bookbinding and your videos are simply superb and you do an excellent job supplying links and info for each project. Many Many Thanks!
Thanks! All the best, Darryn
Very well done. Links to additional explanations were very useful, especially the link to M.Brown book. I appreciate your work. Also the comment about magnetic closure seems to me a good suggestion.
Thanks! I've got a book waiting for a portfolio. Just waiting to see if the customer is okay with a magnetic closure and I'll probably video just the installation of the magnets. Maybe I should do a practice first before doing it for a customer:)
A very nice job! Thank you so much 👍🙏
That was truly enjoyable to watch. Well done and thank you.
Very good
& and excellent
great videos!
I love your job!!! Thanks for sharing!!
Since you’re an Aussie and I’m a Swede, I hope you’ll make a video of your take on the Solander Box some day. 😊👍🏻
Had he invented the box style for his specimens already on the Endeavour, or did he not do that until at the British Library? 🤔
This is a long story. I have started to go down this rabbit hole and it is a complex story. I just don't have the time to get to the bottom of it. The clam shell enclosure I have a video on is sometimes called a Solander box, but it's not for the reasons you mention. Maybe someone will give me a grant to spend time in London studying them.
@@DASBookbinding 😊👍🏻 You go to London, I’ll go to Uppsala. 😄
Your clamshell box is gorgeous, and I’m thinking of trying my hand at making a few for some of my grandfather’s oldest and most fragile books, perhaps even modified to a mock rounded spine with raised bands. The Solander boxes I’ve seen have a bottom tray with four walls, but with the fourth wall having an opening for handling (literally putting the hand in) the contents. You show so many good techniques for covering difficult shapes that I’m getting more confident that I might actually pull off a pretty good one, as long as I do as DAS does. 😄
Can't wait to try this! Did you ever try one with magnetic closures?
Not on a portfolio. I have a heap of magnets of different sizes stuck to my lights if I need them. DAS
Hello Sir, I apologise for being a late comer to your channel; thank so much for your hard work and willingness to share your craft. I have lots of papers and such where I can apply this project. What is your opinion about the use of preservation/archival paper, or cloth, for the lining..? Or if it is necessary..? How well will it glue-up, and would glue impact the preservation capabilities of the paper/cloth..? Thank you for your kind consideration.
I use a high grade EVA specifically made for conservation work. But most PVA made for use with paper will be fine. Just leave it dry open for about a week before putting a book in it. All the paper and cloth I use are pH neutral or slightly alkaline. I try to avoid heavily buffered paper. Most products that are sold in the consumer space that make a big deal about being "archival" are mostly marketing. They're fine to use.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you sir for your quick and much appreciated response; I will take your advice.
I think it would be helpful if your numbering of the boards was the same as those on Diagram 33 of the book. Or have I missed something?
Interesting.
33:45 Did you consider filing the empty space between the cloth turn-ins before gluing in the prettier lining sheets? 🤔😊
(This is where the misplaced comment should have been. 😏)
0:59 Is that a stack of three-holed US half-letter paper that you have bound yourself? Did you use the holes for some kind of sewing, or did you just glue the spine egde like a double-fan/perfect binding?
I have several ring binders of texts that would become more compact without the binders, and I'm asking myself if I should cut the holes off and make glued books from them. But here it looks OK with the holes still there. 🤔
No. It originally came in a ring binder. Someone scanned it. I printed it as sections and sewed it.
I would leave the holes and just double-fan it. So you see the holes. But that's better than having a tight inner margin.
Are the components used in these videos archival? The grey cardboard seems to be standard wood-pulp acid card that comes from cheap stationery supplies? Framing art works use acid free components. The amount of work that goes into these boxes surely means the box should not damage the contents by being acid.
It's acid free binders grey board. DAS
Very nice I'm not a huge fan of the ties are there other less bulky ways to secure it closed
I like the ties because I think they are the least bulky option. The book suggests buttons on the side but these are bulky and would rub on books next to it. You could play around with things like coming out the edge of the board or the side board. But the ribbon is very thin and I don;t think the idea I mentioned would be as strong or aesthetically pleasing. Or if it is shelved with books you could go without.
@@DASBookbinding I had thought about doing with out .well good to have options I suppose 😄. Thanks for this . I do have a request for a video of I wanted to make book cloth at home might you do a video on the subject. Don't know if I want to do the iron on adhesive rout how was this done traditionally?
@@DASBookbinding Are you a fan of magnetic closures?
Good one John! I made my first portfolio enclosure over 20 years ago, and those strong little magnets weren't available then. So I'm sort of attached to the ties because of my way of doing things. But things do move forward. There was a book or something that came out awhile back on doing creative things with magnets. Because of this I ordered a bunch of them - all different sizes - from China. And I keep forgetting I've got them. I think that's a great idea for this enclosure. I've had another job come in for one of these enclosures. I'll give them a go. I'll video it and if I don't stuff it up I'll make a short video on it:)
@@johnbaines9580don't know why I didn't think of that.
Question- in my adventures, I have found a very old (and somewhat valuable- $60 US as-is) book that is in very bad shape- It has been reduced to just a text block with some remnants of binding.
Would an enclosure like this work to preserve it, or would you suggest something else?
It could work. For books that have lost their soundness due to age and use a clamshell enclosure might be better. If the book has lost its boards and has shoulders then some acid free binders board or mill board can be cut to size and used in their place to protect the shoulders. I love unrestored books. I think they are very worth keeping.
I am having trouble with one of the measurements. The board that becomes 4&5. My book dimensions are 19.9 x 19.9 x .5. The total length of board is coming up in the spreadsheet at 19.9 (calculated at baseboard 1 - 3). It doesn't meet when its closed, the distance between them is 3 (I'm working in centimetres). So I'm wondering what the "3" in the calculation is supposed to represent. Thanks! Great video.
Sorry, I need to change the spreadsheet to make it clear to use mm. The 3 you mention is 3mm and just adds a bit of space either side of the object so it doesn't get crushed at the edges.
@@DASBookbinding Ah, okay..thank you!!
Is there a way to create nice titles in these portfolios? Like stenciling letters into the material and then fill it up with paint? I feel it's prettier than a label on the front.
Paper labels are very traditional and I like them. But I also use hot foil in a foiling machine. But it is not a hobby solution. There are a couple of hobby/craft type solutions. One involves a laser printer and laminator and the other a Cricut machine. I really don't know the details but I hope that is enough information for you to search for them on Google. Good luck!
EXCELENTE
Interesting. Just thinking of using a magnetic closure rather than have those ribbons hanging about.
Yes, that works and many people use them. I've experimented with them but still like the ties.
Very good tutorial! The only trouble I've run into is that the piece of covering material needed is very large. Is it possible to make the portfolio out of smaller pieces of book cloth?
There are other designs. This is the one I like. The top and bottom flaps don't have to meet in the centre and can be shortened. Kathy Abbott has another design in her book which uses a number of pieces instead of one large piece of covering material. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you I'm glad, larger pieces aren't easily available where I'm at. I will check it out!
I was led here on a search for an enclosure for a set of orchestral parts (sheet music and scores) - this looks perfect provided it scales up. What thickness board would you recommend for a stack of sheet music 364mm tall, 280mm wide, and 50mm thick? Or is there another enclosure better suited- also with something this big would ribbon still be preferred for closing or something stronger?
I would use either 2.4mm or 3mm for something this size. For that thickness I would consider making a clamshell enclosure. I have a video on this. Ribbons work well for me. I have experimented with strong magnets. They work really well too, but it takes me longer to muck around with these than ribbons, and thus don't use them much.
www.talasonline.com/paper-and-board/bookbinding
I know this is an older video. But what if you need one like these for quite a big piece of art? The preferred material I found is only as big as one meter, and the piece is 60CM. Is there a way to eloquently attach two pieces of cloth together?
In Kathy Abbott's book she does a version where the flaps are added separately. It's a good idea for a video, if I could just get started again. I'm very very close. DAS
I think I missed it, what material did you use for the cover?
Arbelave buckram
Do you customizing notebooks...Need note books from you...if you are willing
If you chose not to use different lining material for the panels that touch the book could you have just done the lining in one large piece?
Thanks! There are a few questions that I'm expecting. They are things I've thought about myself. Just about every time I make one of these I wonder, could I cut a full lining and get it in place with nice 3mm margins all round. I'm sure I couldn't. The bit of uncertainty in the material that goes into the joints is a deal breaker. But could it be done? I think how I would do it is start by cutting out fitting to the base board and width of the flaps, but not the lengths of the flaps or the tapper. I'd glue onto the base board and over the wall boards and into the joints, but not onto the flaps. I'd then cut the lengths of the flaps based on how it fits and the tappers on the half flaps. Finally glue down the flaps. I'd probably still line the base board and inner flap with paper, and thus a bit needs to be added to the wall heights. It sounds like it should be faster and less messing about cutting 4 pieces of cloth and the inside overlaps. But I suspect getting that lining down onto the base board so the flaps line up nicely will be difficult. Give it a go and let me know how it goes!
Genial
Hi, perhaps I'm mistaken but the calculated measurements on the spread sheet don't seem right - maybe I'm doing something wrong? My book is 16 high, 10.9 wide and 4 deep. I've put in the board thickness as 0.2cm and the covering material at 0.03cm and lining material as 0.02cm. To start with the baseboard is calculated at 19 high, 13.9 wide. Is the portfolio supposed to be quite a bit larger than the book?
Sorry, it's on my list to check the spreadsheet. Maybe early next week. DAS
@@DASBookbinding No rush, I've made my own one following your example - thank you so much!
How many millimeters is the spacer? It depend from the size of the book?
Depends on the thickness of board and covering material. I think I remember I use the same board as the enclosure is made of and 5 layers of bookcloth. Good luck! DAS
I would have lost three fingers during this project.
While beefing up a paperback cover, the glue wrinkled several pages of the book. How do I remove the wrinkles?
Hi Judy. Conservators humidify paper and then press (usually lightly for standalone documents) to remove wrinkles. In your case usually with a bit of medium pressure as the moisture equalises the wrinkles will go away - maybe. Traditionally bookbinders used thin zinc plates they called tins for putting inside boards etc when pressing. I use them all the time, but mine are 05mm galvanised steel plates. It might help to put something stiff like tins either side of the wrinkled pages, with blotting paper either side of the pages, and some pressure for a few days. If the wrinkles still won't come out it is because the fibres have been set in a new position and need to be able to move again with some moisture. Humidify some blotting paper by putting it in a sealed container with some water. But don;t get the blotter wet, just let it soak in some humidity. Put a moisture barrier either side of the wrinkled pages (preferably tins) and then interleave the wrinkled pages with the humidified blotter. Leave like this a few hours with light pressure. Then remove the blotters and replace with dry blotter and press under medium to high pressure. Replace the blotters at least daily. Just be careful when pressing not to damage the spine and binding. Hope this helps! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thankfully, this is not a rare or historical book. The perfectionist in me wants it to be pristine. However, if it's not, I'm mature enough to deal with it. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Judy
3:30 what's the name of this kind of table, I've been looking for a while now
I call it a cutting mat bench hook
th-cam.com/video/PmDXyLyEKrk/w-d-xo.html
DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks a lot!
What about how to make the label!?
I just print it out on nice paper on my Inkjet. Nothing fancy. But I have a project in mind which will have a paper label and I'll show the small bit of detail in that video. It will be a slightly more complex, and interesting, label. I glue them on with PVA to make them stick really well. You often see old books missing paper labels because the glue has failed. DAS
where do you get your boards from
Myself. I buy it in bulk from a paper wholesaler and then I re-sell it. If you're in the US I'd recommend Talas and Davey Board and I think Hewit's in the UK have board too. Or if you're in Brisbane I sell it from the bindery. DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you I'm in NSW , how much do you charge
@@maureenpratley7732 Send me an email to darryn@dasbookbinding.com and I'll send you my price list. DAS