Racquet Stringing [Natural Gut Stringing Tips & Techniques]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
- Most stringers see synthetic and polyester strings on recreational players' racquets. So, that's what you'll be working with, more often than not. These days, players use natural gut string in a hybrid stringing setup (if they use it at all). Natural gut, however, is an entirely different animal (no pun intended) than synthetic and polyester strings. It requires extra care and attention when stringing a full bed.
I'll share in this video four tips and techniques when stringing with natural gut.
10:55 - Install Crosses Faster and Reduce Friction - • Racquet Stringing [202...
16:52 - Knot tail integrity - Rotate and glue
26:30 - Half diagonal pull - Loop and Half/Half
27:41 - String integrity - Pull and rotate
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Using this ATW method has three benefits . . . and I haven't seen it done by anyone else.
1) Reduce string friction at the 10:00/2:00 areas on the head.
2) Eliminate the loose 2nd-to-last cross string.
3) Ensure consistent tension on all outer strings.
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Check out the International Alliance of Racquet Technicians, their community of passionate racquet stringers, and what they have to offer!
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REFERENCES
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![Racquet Stringing [Starting Main Strings | 5 Methods]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4Fy46Axh3is/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thanks for another super video Albert, Always learn from you as you take the time to explain in detail and every action you’ve learned is done for a reason and you share your knowledge. Like everyone on your channel, we’re always trying to improve and learn from the best. It was refreshing for me to see you string 2 mains, then 4 and 4 and so on. I’ve been doing that myself and never seen anyone else do that so I seem to be in tune with your stringing style. Yay! The difference is I finish 3-2-1 since I have a manual Prince Neos and to do my tie-off I have to manually set my tension higher so finishing 2-1 I don’t have to keep going back and forth as much with the added tension, if that makes sense. I’m playing a bit of catch-up with your videos but really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and time you take to respond. Very appreciated.
Aloha & Happy New Year Steven,
It makes sense that you end your mains the way you described. 👍 Less chance of forgetting to reset the reference tension back down too! 🤣
I don't know if you watched this video, but recently I did an experiment on the overlap when installing main strings. th-cam.com/video/R9JUthSz2Rc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DZBJ6GuHZfznXEfX
Since this experiment, I've switched to the "1-string overlap" method after using the "2-string overlap" method for about 40 years! 🤙
your tips for the weaving the crosses esp. when you get the to the bottom are very helpful (whether using natural gut or not).
Aloha,
Thanks for watching and glad you stayed tuned until the end! 😉
You can also watch this video where I specifically address "hard weaves." 🤙
th-cam.com/video/dZhsXkhW5l0/w-d-xo.html
I have strung Natural Gut many times but not a ton. I strung a racquet this morning with NG and because I watched your video, it made it much easier and I kept the string looking fresh. I am still trying you technique at stringing crosses, but it is hard for me. I hope I can learn it because it seems so fast and less stress on the string. Thank you for all the great info.
Aloha Jeff, Nice to hear that the video helped you with your string job! The more you string with natural gut, the more you learn how it "behaves." As far as learning the loop-pulling method, I guess it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I find it's easy for me to teach beginner stringers how to weave that way from the start. Happy (gut) Stringing!
So smooth the weaving technique- very relaxing 😎
Aloha Thang, Thanks, I guess that comes naturally after 45 years of stringing . . . lol!
Man you have got yourself a pretty pretty TH-cam channel. Love your style and content. I have just recently started stringing nat gut. I had no problems so far but after this video I feel way more confident about it. Thanks
Aloha Guido, Thanks for finding my channel and for your support! I'm glad my video was good timing for you . . . Happy Stringing!!
Thank you for your insight. You have a very smooth weaving technique. I may try doing it that way. Thank you.
Aloha Jeff, Your welcome. Thanks for your support. Another benefit of using the "loop pulling" technique is that you have less drag as you get to the end of each weave since you'll be pulling at the short end of the loop. I hope that makes sense. Hmmm, maybe that could be a future video in the making!
thanks for the video
Your welcome 🤙
Thanks friends
Superb video Albert, many many thanks! So great to watch such expertise! Wondering: why the double pull?
Aloha Mad Bad,
Thanks for watching; I'm glad it was helpful.
For the Prince P7000 machine, the pre-stretch feature set at 10% appears to be a double-pull. It pulls the string once at the set percentage and then re-pulls it at the set reference tension.
On other machines, the pre-stretch feature pulls the string at the set percentage and then reduces the tension to the set reference tension.
After watching this video again, I may consider making another one with my Babolat Evolution Tour machine and shortening the video.🤙
@@AMstringing I see, many thanks Albert!
@@AMstringing Many thanks Albert! Could you possibly, please?, make a video on methods to deal with mains blocking a cross string hole?
@@madbadtrad7746 Are you referring to a main string that runs over a cross string hole on the outside of the frame? Or are you referring to a cross string hole that happens to be right next to a main string hole that blocks the string on the inside of the frame?
@@AMstringing Hi Albert! I'm referring to the former: a main that runs over a cross string hole on the outside of the frame. I am a novice stringer and a bit flummoxed by it. The other day (while trying to string with two 1.5 month old kittens in the same room, something I do NOT recommend haha), I ended up wrestling with one of them and could only get it in by "crossing" the loops on the outside (which I know is verboten!). Of course, come to think of it: I haven't run across the latter scenario but I imagine I will at some point! Many thanks again!
Do you know how to clean a tennis racket before stringing it? I can't find videos or a document that explains the step by step in detail. I have difficulty removing the glue from the racket saver and clay residue.
Aloha Sergio,
I did a video that really gets "down and dirty" on this subject.
th-cam.com/video/9c1eCPJ4Bj4/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps. 🤙
I have read differing opinions on gut / poly hybrids and the string tension differential. If you put the natural gut in the MAINS and poly in the crosses, how much lower in tension would you recommend stringing the poly crosses for optimal performance and snap-back? Same with 16x19 and 19x20 patterns?
Aloha Mark,
From my experience of stringing at professional tournaments, I've seen various differentials when stringing hybriding natural gut and polyester strings. However, more often than not, the differential is 2 pounds or 1 kilogram lower on the polyester crosses. It also doesn't matter what the string pattern is.
I like the fact that you're stringing the natural gut in the mains. In my opinion, the benefits outweigh stringing it the opposite way.
* Natural Gut (M) & Poly (X) - More snapback, feel, and power. More control for topspin hitters.
* Poly (M) & Natural Gut (X) - More durable and control for flatter hitters.
Happy Stringing! 🤙
@@AMstringing thank you. Any tips on TENSION in a gut/poly with an 18x20 pattern? I’m using a solinco whiteout XTD.
Do you have your favorites for poly cross strings with gut mains? What are some of your favorites. Most people don't want to spend $20. a set for Luxilon like the pros. I am looking for a poly cross that marines well with natural gut to give you maximum playability. Right now I am using Hyper-G 20 gauge poly. The Solinco Hyper-G 20 in my gut / poly hybrid was arrived at by trying every other string in the Solinco line in 18 or 20 gauge (if available). Prior to that, I play tested numerous slick smooth rounded polys (dozens) to see which ones performed best. My top five previously priced under $14. a set were (in order): 1) Yonex Pro Tour FIRE 1.20; 2) Weiss CANNON Silverstring 17; 3) Kirschbaum Pro Line EVO; 4) Mayami Hit Pro 1.25; and, 5) MSV Co-Focus 17L (1.18). Just ordered Tier One GHOSTWIRE and Grapplesnake Tour M8 (which I know you like a lot). What would you top three polys be for cross strings with gut?
Aloha Mark,
Two things . . .
First, thank you for your comment and I'm happy to share my thoughts. It sure sounds like you've tried an assortment of strings! I like the fact that you're playing with the natural gut in the mains. In my opinion, you get the best benefits out of the hybrid setup by doing it that way as opposed to the natural gut in the crosses.
What gauge is your natural gut? Although the 20 gauge Hyper-G crosses sound amazing, I'm wondering if the combination of the square shape and thinness is cutting through the natural gut mains too quickly?
I prefer to stick with round polys in a hybrid setup. I like the snapback better in the round shape strings, compared to aggressively shaped or textured strings.
As for my top poly in a full bed or as a hybrid cross string, I'll have to say Prince Tour XP 17. I may be a little biased since I'm loyal to the brand, but I think you'll find that it performs comparable to your #1 choice, Yonex Poly Tour Fire. In lab tests, they are similar in stiffness, tension maintenance, and energy return. The two things that make Tour XP better than Poly Tour Fire are its spin potential and price ($9).
Second, I'm not sure, but I think you're mixing up me with another TH-cam content creator, Beckett of TennCom. The reason why I'm saying that, he's the one that loves the Grapplesnake Tour M8 strings. 🤣
@@AMstringing That is true. It is Beckett that loves Grapplesnake M8. Have you tried that yet? Thoughts?
Yes. I understand that the very thin gauge poly may cut into the the natural gut mains more quickly than a thicker or smoother poly, but on the other hand I think it also offers less surface resistance as a result and generates a bit more snapback. That said, I normally restring the racquet before the gut breaks as the poly goes dead in about 20-30 hairs of play (max). So far, string breakage is not a problem. I am looking for maximum playability.
Of the round polys out there under $15. a set, I have found these most often cited as favorites on the TW Discussion Board:
Tier 1 Ghostwire ($10.)
Isospeed Cream ($9.)
MSV Co-Focus 18 ($8.)
Solinco Hyper-G 20 ($13.)
Solinco Tour Bite 19 ($13.)
Volkl Cyclone 19 ($9)
Kirschbaum Max Power 18 ($7.)
Signum Pro Poly Plasma ($14.)
Wilson Revolve ($12)
I have tried some, but not them all. At this point I like the Solinco Hyper-G 20 the best. That said, I thought I would ask you for your opinion given your vast knowledge of string and what is out there. What are your three favorites?
@@markmoore5981 It's nice to hear that your gut lasts long enough that you have to cut them out. What gauge are you using?
I agree that a thicker main and a thinner cross are the way to go when it comes to a hybrid setup. Also, in general, installing the softer strings on the mains as opposed to the crosses makes for better snapback. I also posted a video that mentions my theory about this. th-cam.com/video/hKX3JCzTGfs/w-d-xo.html
Sorry, I can't help you with the strings listed above, since I haven't tried any of them.
As I mentioned, my top pick for an all-around polyester string is Prince Tour XP17. It's great in a full bed and in a hybrid. It's the best polyester that Prince makes and a good value at $9/set. If I had to pick two more, then it would have to be Prince Vortex 18, then Prince Vortex 17.
@@AMstringing Very much appreciated. BTW I am using 17 gauge gut in the mains for max feel and spin. I play with a Solinco WHITEOUT 18x20 XTD and so I lean towards thinner gauge set-ups with the denser string pattern.
@@markmoore5981 Thanks for sharing. 🤙
Perhaps it's a small thing but I noticed that the racquet supports on the head end of the racquet were not square against the frame. Any concern about marring the frame? After once breaking the last X by over tightening the knot, I've been reluctant to string gut. It was an expencive lesson about the fragility of gut string and just snugging the knots.
Aloha Robert, Although those two side arm supports at 10:00/2:00 were not touching the frame squarely, it does hold the frame securely in place while stringing. The retainers are made out of hard plastic that doesn't mar the frame. Sorry to hear about your expensive lesson.
Great job. I noticed that Federer's strings have a tiny plastic at each place where the main and the cross meet; what's the benefit of that?
Aloha Ramon, Thanks for watching! Here's another video I posted about string savers and a link to an article about Federer's string setup. th-cam.com/video/SnAQjxphqNc/w-d-xo.html
People use hybrid cause full bed gut gets stuck out of place...which poly has best tension maintenance for hybriding ?
Aloha mteca,
I would recommend staying away from shaped or textured polyester strings since it will tend to cause more fraying of the natural gut. Also, I would recommend stringing the natural gut in the mains (two pounds tighter than the poly crosses) for better performance - feel, power, and spin potential.
Here are a couple polyester strings that you could try - Tecnifibre Black Code and Signum Pro Poly Plasma. Black Code is slightly softer and has a higher spin potential than Poly Plasma.
Good luck . . . Happy Stringing! 🤙
Great video. I'm gonna use the tip about marking the machine for string length. GOLD. The use of loop to pull the string towards the end of the crosses is a great tip too. Thank you.
You mentioned in the old days, you would use one piece around the world stringing for natural gut. I cannot see a reason why you couldn't under this scenario. Or, are we following the manufacturer's instructions?
Thoughts?
Aloha Andy, Thanks, glad you can use the tips! It just so happens that my machine is 36" in length. So all I have marked off is one piece of finishing tape 12" from the left (located on the turntable). So if I need to measure 2', I just measure from that mark to the end of the right side of the machine. I hope that makes sense.
For the purpose of this video, I decided to string the racquet 2-piece. Normally, I string everything with my ATW method, except for full-bed polyester and hybrids setups (of course). I mainly do it as my "signature" pattern. Unfortunately, I won't be posting it on TH-cam. I currently have it posted behind the paywall on the IART website.
I still have one of those uncoated gut. Do you suggest to wax only the main?( after installing mains)?
Aloha Berlian, Wow, the last time I strung with uncoated gut was in the 80s. Yes, you can use paraffin wax and apply it only to the mains. Make sure to apply the wax to the top and bottom surfaces of the mains before you install the crosses. Happy Stringing! 🤙
At what tension do you string with natural but and do you lower the tension on crosses
Aloha Ruben, I always string the mains and crosses at the same tension. However, some players like to lower the crosses by a couple of pounds on all types of strings, not only natural gut. They claim it provides a softer feel and more "ball pocketing" at contact. It's a matter of personal preference.
I'm attempting to string synthetic gut, would you suggest anything specific?
From what I'm seeing in videos, a slow tension pole, and sure there are no bends or kinks.
I'm actually going to be stringing rackets for beginner girls tennis at the high school level that are using oversized rackets so the tensions are pretty high. On my first attempt I had some concerns because I was pulling fast around 66 lb recommend tension being 65 plus or minus 5 lb...and the string slipped during pull.
Aloha Josiah,
Stringing synthetic gut is not as difficult as stringing natural gut. You'll find it manageable, especially if you avoid bending and kinking the string. Synthetic gut is not as fragile as natural gut, so you can string with less worry.
I don't know if you cleaned and adjusted the string clamps, if you haven't or need some information, please watch this video.
th-cam.com/video/wQeWCyxpWSI/w-d-xo.html
You can also search my channel for "String Clamp Maintenance" and see which video applies to your type of stringing machine.
Your high reference tension at +/-65 is too tight for a beginner player on an oversized racquet, in my opinion. It would be ideal if you stayed within the 54-60 range. 🤙
@@AMstringing thank you for the tips!
The coach specifically asked for such high tensions. I typically string my own racquets anywhere from 46 to 52 so I could avoid arm pains.
@@JosiahHeng You might want to recommend that high tensions are a thing of the past and that it's safer to stay with lower tensions, especially for beginner girls.
Here's the video I did on Stringing Guidelines, which may help. th-cam.com/video/tVh4UXNBl2I/w-d-xo.html
Also, if you want a copy of the guidelines, email me at amstringing@gmail.com 🤙
another great video...thanks...did't i see you recommend the pre-stretch (outside...around the pole} for gut ?
Aloha Ralph, Thanks! Ever since I got my Prince P7000 machine with the pre-stretch function, I don't pre-stretch manually. I rather have the machine precisely take care of it during the stringing process. However, if I did have to pre-stretch, check out my other video - th-cam.com/video/C1MBom_tFfs/w-d-xo.html.
Even with coil memory of the natural gut strings, I feel if you know how the strings "behaves," handling it carefully, without kinking and twisting, it shouldn't be an issue.
@@AMstringing thanks...i thought maybe you did both...good to know...really get a lot out of your vids !
Great content, thanks! Love the tips! Question...what is the purpose of the diablo? I've seen some people say to always use it and others say don't bother. Another comment I've seen is that using it will result in more tension (or less tension loss). What's your opinion? Thanks!
Aloha DrFugue13, I'm glad you found it useful. I would use the diablo whenever your string length allows it. It serves two purposes: 1) Reduces the amount of pressure that the tension head gripper has to apply to the string as it pulls it back. 2) Ensures that each string is fed into the tension head gripper in a straight line, therefore putting less stress on the tension head. Happy stringing!
@@AMstringing awesome, thanks!
Hello, I string my own racquets and use a full bed of VS 17 natural gut.
I have 2 questions that I would appreciate your advice on:
(1) Would you advise that I should use the pre-stretch function on both the mains and crosses, or one but not the other? Does it really make a difference?
(2) At what pulling speed for either or both mains and crosses should I pull tension? I have FAST, MEDIUM or LOW on my machine.
Aloha Raid Raid, Here are my opinions about your questions:
1) I would recommend an all-or-nothing approach. I don't know what the difference would be if you pre-stretched one but not the other.
2) I usually go with the LOW pulling speed for natural gut and multifilament strings. So if it's a full bed, keep it at LOW. If it happens to be on a hybrid setup, keep it at LOW, then set it at MEDIUM for the other string.
By the way, what kind of stringing machine do you have?
@@AMstringing Hello Albert, thank you for your advice on the tension pulling speed for a full bed natural gut.
My machine is the P7000.. We had several communication regarding its calibration. In the last communication, I had sent you a pdf link on how to calibrate the Babolat Star 5. Did you get it?
@@raidraid6672 Okay, that's what I thought. I couldn't find the PDF link for the Star 5 calibration. Which video did you place it in?
You didn’t place the racket on the machine with the buttcap and logo the right way up, does it has a reason ?The Wilson should be readable on the left sight of the machine, or doesn’t it matter in your opinion?
Aloha Mark,
You're very observant.
Short story . . . yes, I purposely mount my racquets upside down. It's been a "thing" of mine since the 80s when I started stringing wood racquets. I can tell you the long story if you really want to know.
It has become one of my stringing "signatures." It also helps me identify my string jobs, and sets mine apart from others.
In my opinion, it doesn't really matter if you mount the racquet "up" or "down" in terms of the end result. The main reason for mounting the butt cap up is to keep everything uniform, especially if you're stringing on a stringing team at a pro tournament. In some cases, it can help the stringer identify the cross string tie-off hole easier when learning how to string an unfamiliar racquet for the first time.
@@AMstringing thank you for your reply. I was just curious. I agree with you, I doesn’t really matter with 90% of the rackets. What the most important thing is, is being consistent with every racket you string. So when it is always butt cap down, it should always be butt cap down. I am interested in your long version regarding the wooden rackets, I like to learn ! Have a nice day
@@markjangreebe6058 Here's the long story.
First, you'll have to read this article I posted on the IART website titled, "Stringing With a 22"x11" String Set"
gssalliance.com/free-public-access/stringing-with-a-22x11-string-set/
Next, make sure to read this paragraph in the article.
"I always mounted the racquet on the stringing machine with the W on the right side to keep things consistent. It also made it easy to remember to tie off the 7th cross from the bottom on the left (opposite) side. Notice the blue arrow in the picture above. Note: If you start the 7th cross on the wrong side, you’ll realize as you reach the top that the strings won’t sit inside the grooves properly."
This gives you an understanding of how I mounted my racquets on my stringing machine back then. However, by coincidence, a lot of these wood racquets happen to be facing "butt cap down." So then I decided to mount every racquet (aluminum, composite, graphite, etc.) with the "butt cap down."
When stringing at a pro tournament by myself, I'll typically mount the racquet with the "butt cap down" unless the player requests that it be mounted "butt cap up." The other exception that I'll make is when a player requests that the stencil is applied with the "butt cap up," then I'll mount and string the racquet with the "butt cap up."
Well, you asked for it, that's the whole story! 😆🤙
Thank you again for your reply and time. It makes sense to me now. Interesting way of stringing the wooden racket, I didn’t know that way . I have a lot of that kind of wooden rackets in my racket collection, for sure I am going to try it! Thank you again
I strung my Wilson blade 98 (16+19) whit babolat vs nat gut 1.30 / luxilon alu power 1 25 at 56/54 lbs for the first time , played whit it for a week, i was often hitting balls long and didn t got the feeling that the feel that is commonly attributed to Gut was much more than when using poly.. , is this normal or is there something wrong whit me? xd.., i got another Wilson blade 98, this time on the 18+20 string pattern, planning to do the same string job to see if maybe the tension was the problem, should i go higher or lower? thanks a lot!
Aloha Martin,
I would recommend lowering the tension by 2 pounds (54/52) on your Blade 98 (18x20), assuming you're using the same string setup. This should make the string bed deflection comparable to the Blade 98 (16x19).
Then, from there, you'll be able to evaluate if it's the racquet that's causing your balls to sail long since the (18x20) generally will have a lower launch angle than the (16x19).
If the (18x20) is still sailing long, then you'll know that tension is probably the cause.
But then again, you can also change your string setup to ALU poly mains and Natural Gut crosses at that point too. 🤪
Happy Playtesting! 🤙
@@AMstringing Thanks you, always so helpful.
I have been using multi filament strings exclusively. I find polyester too harsh. Should I string natural gut at the same tension as my multi strings? How much longer will natural gut strings typically last versus multi filament?
Aloha, Yes, a good starting point would be to string the natural gut strings at the same tension as the multifilament strings.
In terms of tension maintenance and playability, no other synthetic strings can hold up better than natural gut.
As for durability, it depends on the type of climate that you live in. Places with high humidity (i.e., Hawaii, Florida, etc.) since the natural gut is more susceptible to moisture.
Can you explain why you used a 2 piece stringing on the Clash? Wilson allows for either 1 or 2 piece. I will use 1 piece if possible just because it’s slightly faster.
Aloha Don, For the purpose of this video, I decided to string the racquet 2-piece since the last main ended at the bottom. For all racquets, it's not recommended that you string the crosses from bottom to top, due to the stress it puts on the frame. Normally, I string everything with my ATW method, except for full-bed polyester and hybrids setups (of course). I mainly do because it's my "signature" pattern. Unfortunately, I won't be posting it on TH-cam. I currently have it posted behind the paywall on the IART website and can be viewed as a Premium member.
Thanks. I missed that. It must be a different model Clash. My Clash 98’s mains end at the top.
@@blkmtn No worries. If I were to string your Clash 98, I would go with a standard 1-piece but run two crosses at the top on the short side. Here's the video where I explained why. th-cam.com/video/NOGJdbUjy5Q/w-d-xo.html
Any advice to string without a starting clamp? Appreciate it
Aloha Sergio, It depends, what kind of stringing machine are you using?
@@AMstringing I'm using a Wilson Baiardo, but I don't have experience stringing. What should I do to start the mains and the crosses? In this case, currently I'm just stringing polys and multifilament strings
You can use your string clamp to start the mains, but it would be better if you invest in a starting clamp to backup the string clamp to reduce any slippage.
As for the crosses, you can use a figure-8 starting knot, but again, I would recommend using a starting clamp on the outside of the frame. This will help to reduce the stress on the anchor string that the starting knot is being tied to when tensioning the first cross.
Here's a video where I talk about some good starting clamps - th-cam.com/video/5s6o_-MQePs/w-d-xo.html
Also, if you'd like to take a course in racquet stringing, check this out.
STRINGING COURSE NOW AVAILABLE AT IART!!!
* Basic Stringing 101 - 10 Module Course
* Perfect if you're starting or want to ensure you're stringing the right way.
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* As a Premium Member ($49/year), the course is free, and you have access to all other content.
* IART has been teaching the craft of racquet stringing for over 20 years.
Go HERE - gssalliance.com/about-our-courses/?
@@AMstringing Thank you very much for your answer. I appreciate your experience and knowledge. I will consider taking the course. 😀
@@jimbo1san You're welcome. By the way, I helped with putting the course together.
did you mount the frame upside down ?
Aloha Ralph, Yes, you're very observant!
Short story . . .
I know most stringers prefer to mount the frame right-side-up, so I guess I'm in the minority. It does make it easy for me to identify my string jobs though, so it's become one of my signatures.
For the longer story, read more . . .
When I started stringing wood racquets in the late '70s, I used a stringing method called 22x11. Please read this article first then you'll understand about the "W" on one side of the frame. gssalliance.com/free-public-access/stringing-with-a-22x11-string-set/
When most of those frames were mounted on the machine, I noticed that the butt cap was facing down. So from back then, I've always mounted my frames upside down.
@@AMstringing good article...my fear in mounting a frame upside down is that the knots will damage the grommets which have already been "molded" by previous (right side up) string jobs...maybe this is insignificant...what do you think ?
@@ralphh5060 Thanks! I think it's insignificant. I've always mounted my frames upside-down, for recreational players and touring professionals. Even at the professional level, it's very rare that the player would request to have the racquet mounted right-side-up. So overall, I think it's kind of random.
So, where can I an offset tube???