@@rust_hoarder_garage I like to mashed a hole Thru my phone trying to eagerly subscribe 😳😂 just exactly the type of channel a guy like me needed to see , just what the doctor ordered!!!!!!!! Love it
I am doing a Ls3 swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. The original 4.6L 2V engine mounts fit to the conversion mounts and it drops right in place of my old engine. The prob with the Ls/Ford swap is the rear bolt ( there are 3) doesn't line up with the block. Most people just let it hang. NOT ME!!!! LOL. So I drilled the plate and my engine mount and now it's bolted in all 3 engine mount holes. Around 500 something at the crank, I am not letting it just hang lol. Good video brother!!!
Thank you! I have a build coming up with a crown vic IFS, so I will get to play around with LS mounting into that as well. Looks like the factory CV mounts might just work!
I stabbed the same engine and trans into a '68 C10 and used the stock oil pan by raising the engine 1". Just slid some 1" square stock on the top of the frame, 1.5" spacers on the crossmember and used the stock mounts and frame horns. The stock pans are awesome being so deep, like a poor man's dry sump as long as you can get the clearance, otherwise the F body pan and pickup will work.
Agreed, I would use the stock pan every time if possible, this is the first time I got that lucky! I could raise the engine even more, but driveshaft clearances won't allow it. I have an F body pan on hand but prefer the ebay 302-1 or 302-3 depending on clearances. Thanks for watching!
The rubber and steel mount is a standard 64-72 GM mount, say for a 1970 chevelle with a 350 or 396. The reason I don't run the rubber style on the driver's side is that style mount is prone to breakage when the engine torques over under power, there was even a dealer "fix" from GM to install a limiter cable to keep the engine from moving too much. The solid mount on the driver's side and rubber mount on the passenger side takes care of the problem and still allows the engine to move a little and not be solid mounted to the frame. GM's fix was the 73 up clamshell type mount which do not break but are huge, I rarely use them unless I am building a car that came with them.
@rust_hoarder_garage I had 2 Chevelles. And both engines would tap the hood when you gave it throttle. I put a torque chain from the drivers block to the frame. It worked. And now hearing the dealer would put a cable there. That is cool.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 83 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "พันฤทธิ์ vs ซุปเปอร์บอล วันของโอม MBK"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1b4pkKHa_Fk/mqdefault.jpg)
Built on a budget sent me and I love you guys channel… y’all are a breath of fresh air I swear
Thanks for coming over and watching!
@@rust_hoarder_garage I like to mashed a hole Thru my phone trying to eagerly subscribe 😳😂 just exactly the type of channel a guy like me needed to see , just what the doctor ordered!!!!!!!! Love it
built on a budget sent me. Nice Video
Thanks for coming over!
built on a budget sent me
Cool, if you like budget builds it’s all I do.
Nice frame reliefs on upper control arms. Jag front end looks like it is factory installed!!! Like that you are resourceful on your builds!!
Thanks! Low buck is the way I prefer, use what you have and save cash. Thanks for watching!
I am doing a Ls3 swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. The original 4.6L 2V engine mounts fit to the conversion mounts and it drops right in place of my old engine. The prob with the Ls/Ford swap is the rear bolt ( there are 3) doesn't line up with the block. Most people just let it hang. NOT ME!!!! LOL. So I drilled the plate and my engine mount and now it's bolted in all 3 engine mount holes. Around 500 something at the crank, I am not letting it just hang lol. Good video brother!!!
Thank you! I have a build coming up with a crown vic IFS, so I will get to play around with LS mounting into that as well. Looks like the factory CV mounts might just work!
I stabbed the same engine and trans into a '68 C10 and used the stock oil pan by raising the engine 1". Just slid some 1" square stock on the top of the frame, 1.5" spacers on the crossmember and used the stock mounts and frame horns. The stock pans are awesome being so deep, like a poor man's dry sump as long as you can get the clearance, otherwise the F body pan and pickup will work.
Agreed, I would use the stock pan every time if possible, this is the first time I got that lucky! I could raise the engine even more, but driveshaft clearances won't allow it. I have an F body pan on hand but prefer the ebay 302-1 or 302-3 depending on clearances. Thanks for watching!
BOAB GREAT VID
Thanks!
What motor mount is that both rubber and steel. Why run solid on drivers side
The rubber and steel mount is a standard 64-72 GM mount, say for a 1970 chevelle with a 350 or 396. The reason I don't run the rubber style on the driver's side is that style mount is prone to breakage when the engine torques over under power, there was even a dealer "fix" from GM to install a limiter cable to keep the engine from moving too much. The solid mount on the driver's side and rubber mount on the passenger side takes care of the problem and still allows the engine to move a little and not be solid mounted to the frame. GM's fix was the 73 up clamshell type mount which do not break but are huge, I rarely use them unless I am building a car that came with them.
@rust_hoarder_garage I had 2 Chevelles. And both engines would tap the hood when you gave it throttle. I put a torque chain from the drivers block to the frame. It worked. And now hearing the dealer would put a cable there. That is cool.