Really appreciate your videos!!! I got sepsis in January and my recovery has bee spent working on my 12A powered 65 Healey. Your videos have been such a help to me.
Thanks for the vid I’ve installed new Gilmer pulleys on without marking TDC first. I did watch another vid using the front rotor and a screwdriver to find the flat of the combustion side of rotor.
Rad Ranch is Awesome! Can’t express the support for you and sharing your knowledge. Thanks. I’m working backward from RX8s to first gen. Just picked up a one owner 85 (rust free thanks to NM having zero humidity and salted roads) and an earlier 82 that’s complete. Gonna need to get rid of one for sure. Quick question the ‘83 has been hive type wheels. Are they aftermarket? Factory from another year? Or the rare 10th anniversary wheels eh? Maybe you can help. Once again mad props and support. Thanks for everything you do for the community!!
Yooo, thanks for the video. I was trying to figure out how to fined TDC. Where finishing up a build. The car is running but I felt like there was to much heat coming off the engine bay. Fire wall, hood lock,vacuum box, all was really hot to the touch. The car was on at idle for about 2hr. Just checking for leaks and what not. A buddy of mine told me to see if I put the pulley back correct. It’s an Atkins rotary serpentine pulley kit.
I grabbed one of my housings i had on the shelf and the "waist" of the housing, i.e. the narrowest part wasn't exactly half way between the spark plugs so not sure if this method will give you exactly tdc.
Would this same idea apply to a 13B that’s EFI based without a distributor? Assuming that the the crank pulley is at 0BTDC I would just line up the dimples/holes on the CAS and install it back into the front cover?
I just finished rebuilding a 13b 6 port turbo engine running on a Haltech. I guess I didn’t know any better and didn’t even line up the pulleys or verify the rotor faces. Does that mean I have to take off the pulleys and follow this process before starting it for the first time?
Hey there could you explain how in most timing write ups, they say to attatch the timing gun to leading and adjust cas as needed and then do the same with the trailing. Im confused on the trailing part. If i adjust the cas for trailing wouldnt that throw off leading that i had previously adjusted? Im probably missing something super simple lol.
on an FC CAS, if you adjust the CAS angle, it will change both the Leading and trailing timing number. The only way to adjust them independently would be to change the "split" timing in the computer's tune itself, Otherwise yes you are correct, adjusting the leading affects the trailing and vise versa
You can also put equal length long wood q tips in the from rotor leading and trailing holes and rotate until rotor face is against the sticks rotate back and forth until they are equal length. That is true top dead center.
It should only fit on the hub 1 way. The 4 bolt holes aren't square. However I have seen them drilled out to fit, or mismatched between model years which will throw the timing marks off
Hmm, I tried this method on my S5 T2 engine with S5 housings and REW eccentric shaft and you could clearly see that the keyway was not at 9 a clock, more like 8:30, the same with the rear counterweight. I did it twice and looked over my measurements but ended up the the same place, about 5° BTDC. When I turned the front keyway to 9 a clock the stock 5° and 20° marks looked to be at the right place. For some reason this method did not work for me.
this is more of a 'gets close' method. also some years the pullys were marked at TDC, and some were marked at 5 and 20, and after 86/87 the spark plug holes have been moved slightly.
Hey there, hoping you can help. My timing marks are way off when using the timing light. Their several inches to the left of the indicator and the cas is dead center on the adj bolt/nut. I followed the vid and found tdc to verify the timing marks on the pulley are correct and their off my a little but not several inches. When i stab the cas no matter what i do to adj for the gear movement when stabbing, the top gear in the cas is always off its mark and the bottom cas gear dimple is pushed out of alignment one way or the other. Unless i have the cas twisted all the way to one end of the allowable adjustment. Any thoughts? Also very hard to start when cold and runs rough and then is even harder if not impossible to start once warmed up.
Well i found i had very low compression. I pulled the exhaust manifold and push on each apex seal w a wooden stick and all but one were stuck and didnt want to move. So i started cleaning them w carb cleaner and letting them soak by pointing the seal down into a puddle of cleaner and slowly one by one they are loosening up. Maybe not the right way to do it, probably should pull the engine apart an do it right but i cant afford a rebuild kit atm so i figured not much to lose as long as i make sure ive cleared all the cleaning fluid out and lubed everything up real good and change the oil before trying to crank it over or a compression check again.
Could you run 15 inch rims on an fb or is that to big. Would like to get some spec Miata race tires and rims for my fb but don’t know if they will hit under suspension loads
Just pull the front pulley and the keyway must be at 9 o Clock, then put the pulley back in. Align the damper to line up to TDC pointer with marks, make new marks if needed.
How accurate is this method of finding TDC, I just did this method to my FC engine and the factory timing marks are about 6 degrees after the timing mark I made with this method, I don’t want to blow my engine up on the dyno
I would trust this method over the timing marks, but at the same time, on the dyno you should see the power level lay over when you get past the optimal timing number for your setup, then you can back it down to where it makes the most power. If the front hub and pulley have ever been taken apart and potentially swapped with a different hub or pulley, the timing marks may not be correct
Keep in mind the above procedure finds TDC (O-deg). FC factory marks are 5* atdc and 20* atdc. So I think the procedure confirms your pulley marks are correct or at least very close.
You should put a clear disclaimer that doing this procedure at specifically the REAR rotor will locate TDC for the FRONT rotor. Otherwise people will set their TDC to be the apex seal instead of the bathtub of the rotor
You have to cut the lock collar off to remove the rear ball bearing with shop press. (Use cut off wheel. Stop short of touching the axle when cutting into the retaining collar. Use cold chisel hammered into the cut you made to split the lock collar -Then it slips off.) to put new bearings on - You then need a long metal pipe. Not exhaust pipe. Thick Walled pipe that’s the right OD that sits on the outer race. Use shop press - force the bearing onto the axle until it’s up against the collar flush. Then press on the. New retainers supplied with the new bearings.
Just posted this video (giving you credit of course) on the rx7club forum because someone was asking how to find TDC. www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/weber-48-dcoe-car-stumbling-3000rpm-1144899/page2/#post12419650
Really appreciate your videos!!! I got sepsis in January and my recovery has bee spent working on my 12A powered 65 Healey. Your videos have been such a help to me.
DUDE! This is what I was waiting for. Man love your vids. You are heading to the big leagues on TH-cam.
Thanks for the vid I’ve installed new Gilmer pulleys on without marking TDC first. I did watch another vid using the front rotor and a screwdriver to find the flat of the combustion side of rotor.
Enjoyed the video. My 85 gsl has been my daily driver for many years.
Rad Ranch is Awesome! Can’t express the support for you and sharing your knowledge. Thanks. I’m working backward from RX8s to first gen. Just picked up a one owner 85 (rust free thanks to NM having zero humidity and salted roads) and an earlier 82 that’s complete. Gonna need to get rid of one for sure. Quick question the ‘83 has been hive type wheels. Are they aftermarket? Factory from another year? Or the rare 10th anniversary wheels eh? Maybe you can help. Once again mad props and support. Thanks for everything you do for the community!!
Thank you, thumbs up , more videos to catch up with ...
Yooo, thanks for the video. I was trying to figure out how to fined TDC. Where finishing up a build. The car is running but I felt like there was to much heat coming off the engine bay. Fire wall, hood lock,vacuum box, all was really hot to the touch. The car was on at idle for about 2hr. Just checking for leaks and what not. A buddy of mine told me to see if I put the pulley back correct. It’s an Atkins rotary serpentine pulley kit.
I grabbed one of my housings i had on the shelf and the "waist" of the housing, i.e. the narrowest part wasn't exactly half way between the spark plugs so not sure if this method will give you exactly tdc.
Would this same idea apply to a 13B that’s EFI based without a distributor? Assuming that the the crank pulley is at 0BTDC I would just line up the dimples/holes on the CAS and install it back into the front cover?
Yes sir. This applies to all 2 rotor engines
I just finished rebuilding a 13b 6 port turbo engine running on a Haltech. I guess I didn’t know any better and didn’t even line up the pulleys or verify the rotor faces. Does that mean I have to take off the pulleys and follow this process before starting it for the first time?
3:49 bless you, most folks wouldn't have done that.
My fc is running super rough but I think this will help thanks
Hey there could you explain how in most timing write ups, they say to attatch the timing gun to leading and adjust cas as needed and then do the same with the trailing. Im confused on the trailing part. If i adjust the cas for trailing wouldnt that throw off leading that i had previously adjusted? Im probably missing something super simple lol.
on an FC CAS, if you adjust the CAS angle, it will change both the Leading and trailing timing number. The only way to adjust them independently would be to change the "split" timing in the computer's tune itself, Otherwise yes you are correct, adjusting the leading affects the trailing and vise versa
Fuck yea! Been waiting for you to do this video. Haven’t for the life of me figured how to crank time a rotory by myself
Yes sir!!! Haven't had to do it until now!
You can also put equal length long wood q tips in the from rotor leading and trailing holes and rotate until rotor face is against the sticks rotate back and forth until they are equal length. That is true top dead center.
Can you explain more about putting on the eccentric shaft pulley ? Can the pulley be put in wrong ?
It should only fit on the hub 1 way. The 4 bolt holes aren't square. However I have seen them drilled out to fit, or mismatched between model years which will throw the timing marks off
Hmm, I tried this method on my S5 T2 engine with S5 housings and REW eccentric shaft and you could clearly see that the keyway was not at 9 a clock, more like 8:30, the same with the rear counterweight.
I did it twice and looked over my measurements but ended up the the same place, about 5° BTDC.
When I turned the front keyway to 9 a clock the stock 5° and 20° marks looked to be at the right place.
For some reason this method did not work for me.
this is more of a 'gets close' method. also some years the pullys were marked at TDC, and some were marked at 5 and 20, and after 86/87 the spark plug holes have been moved slightly.
Hey there, hoping you can help. My timing marks are way off when using the timing light. Their several inches to the left of the indicator and the cas is dead center on the adj bolt/nut. I followed the vid and found tdc to verify the timing marks on the pulley are correct and their off my a little but not several inches. When i stab the cas no matter what i do to adj for the gear movement when stabbing, the top gear in the cas is always off its mark and the bottom cas gear dimple is pushed out of alignment one way or the other. Unless i have the cas twisted all the way to one end of the allowable adjustment. Any thoughts? Also very hard to start when cold and runs rough and then is even harder if not impossible to start once warmed up.
Well i found i had very low compression. I pulled the exhaust manifold and push on each apex seal w a wooden stick and all but one were stuck and didnt want to move. So i started cleaning them w carb cleaner and letting them soak by pointing the seal down into a puddle of cleaner and slowly one by one they are loosening up. Maybe not the right way to do it, probably should pull the engine apart an do it right but i cant afford a rebuild kit atm so i figured not much to lose as long as i make sure ive cleared all the cleaning fluid out and lubed everything up real good and change the oil before trying to crank it over or a compression check again.
Carb cleaner causes rubber to expand by a lot. Brake cleaner won’t. Not sure it’s the best for water jacket seals …
Could you run 15 inch rims on an fb or is that to big. Would like to get some spec Miata race tires and rims for my fb but don’t know if they will hit under suspension loads
15 inch wheels will be fine. 15x7 +20 is a popular square setup for stock body. I think with a 205 on them.
RAD Potential thank you. Greatly appreciate it. Do you have a recommendation for a tire place. What do you like for tires on the banana?
Just pull the front pulley and the keyway must be at 9 o Clock, then put the pulley back in. Align the damper to line up to TDC pointer with marks, make new marks if needed.
How accurate is this method of finding TDC, I just did this method to my FC engine and the factory timing marks are about 6 degrees after the timing mark I made with this method, I don’t want to blow my engine up on the dyno
I would trust this method over the timing marks, but at the same time, on the dyno you should see the power level lay over when you get past the optimal timing number for your setup, then you can back it down to where it makes the most power. If the front hub and pulley have ever been taken apart and potentially swapped with a different hub or pulley, the timing marks may not be correct
Keep in mind the above procedure finds TDC (O-deg). FC factory marks are 5* atdc and 20* atdc. So I think the procedure confirms your pulley marks are correct or at least very close.
I saw this done with the front rotor is it the same or just use the rear
You use the rear to locate the tip of the front rotor
Dude!! If this Works on RX8?
Thanks man!
You should put a clear disclaimer that doing this procedure at specifically the REAR rotor will locate TDC for the FRONT rotor. Otherwise people will set their TDC to be the apex seal instead of the bathtub of the rotor
What about twin dizzy timing
Still voting for a video on rear wheel bearing removal and replacement.
I havent ever done this. Maybe I should try one. Never needed to do it.
You have to cut the lock collar off to remove the rear ball bearing with shop press. (Use cut off wheel. Stop short of touching the axle when cutting into the retaining collar. Use cold chisel hammered into the cut you made to split the lock collar -Then it slips off.) to put new bearings on - You then need a long metal pipe. Not exhaust pipe. Thick Walled pipe that’s the right OD that sits on the outer race. Use shop press - force the bearing onto the axle until it’s up against the collar flush. Then press on the. New retainers supplied with the new bearings.
Wheres ths vid link to set ignition??
description updated
Just posted this video (giving you credit of course) on the rx7club forum because someone was asking how to find TDC.
www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/weber-48-dcoe-car-stumbling-3000rpm-1144899/page2/#post12419650
Check my facebook page Rotary Cartel
so you can post you videos there as well🔥🔥