If you add a reverse function to your lathe, be sure to tap your chuck to add a set screw so the chuck will not unscrew itself when running in reverse mode.
I have the 12" version of that lathe. The switch you need to add reversing is a double-pole, double-throw switch - less than $6 at Home Despot. The only problem is where to mount it. There isn't a lot of free space in the box. I have purchased the switch, and also an auxiliary box to contain it, and just need to find the time and motivation to remove the power converter box and mount the auxiliary box on the outside somewhere. The most convenient location is on the left side with the power converter installed on the lathe so that the switch is accessible when operating the lathe - which means on outside of the box adjacent to the large heat sink (on the right when the box is open). By the way, King Canada sells a version of this lathe with a reversing switch mounted on the front 'control panel' of the box - to the left of the speed knob with the box mounted on the lathe. As others have said, all you have to do to discharge the capacitor is short the terminals with a screwdriver. It looked in the video like you may have done that with your finger, so if you didn't feel anything, that suggests it is already discharged. When I was a kid, I would leave charged capacitors lying on the desk in my room so that if my sister tried to poke around, she would get a shock! We're still friends!
Your video inspired me to try installing the reversing switch, but I concluded that the only place to mount an auxiliary box would obstruct air flow through the vents next to the heat sink - not a good idea. So I need to think about it some more. Reversing would be nice, but its not necessary.
I used to touch electricity just to get a jolt. I guess I "was" a weird kid! Was going to tell Bob that the switches are cheap and can be bought just about at any hardware store. My local sells them too!
Hi. If that was my lathe I would put a piece of cloth over the top of the controller to keep wood chips and dust out of the controllers air vent. Great job. Enjoyed the video.
The video may not show this clearly - the box is actually closed on all sides and is reasonably tight. My version (the same s Bob's older version) has some air holes adjacent to the heat sink. Sawdust does get into the box, and tends to build up around the heat sink. But my experience is that the amount of dust that accumulates is relatively small, so an annual cleaning is probably all that it needs.
The MOSFET's are probably held to the heatsinks with a small screw or nut and bolt and may have a mica or silicone insulator between it and the heatsink. It also may use some heatsink compound to transfer any heat to the heatsink. If it is there and not hardened, you probably can reuse it when installing the new ones. A part number should be on the MOSFET's. If you find a good electronics store they can look up an equivalent part number for a replacement. I recommend bolting them to the heatsink before soldering them back to the circuit board. Glad to see your lathe is back in operation.
An easy way to discharge the cap would be put a large resistance across the terminals. By ohm's law V=IR so the voltage in the cap would dissipate through the resistance with a small current. This might take some time depending on how much is stored in the cap but you can figure out how long it would be by looking RC circuits online. as far as testing may try putting a voltage to it and seeing if it holds the charge after sometime. Hope that helps
The NTC 3D20 is PT Series -Power Type NTC Thermistor. The resistance should be about 3 ohms at room temperature and the resistance goes down as it gets warm. The thermistor is there to limit the current when you flip the switch. They can fail, in fact I have seen more than one where one of the leads falls off. Use your meter on the lower resistance range and see if it reads close to 3 ohms. The resistance will go to less than 0.1 ohms when it has reached temperature. You can check it by using a hair dryer and blowing warm air on it. The resistance should/will go down. For a data sheet just type NTC 3D20 in Google. I have seen multiple comments that the capacitor looks fine so it is probably okay. I won't say the cap is bad, but to say it is okay is not necessarily true. Capacitors have multiple failure modes. Two other common modes are high equivalent series resistance (ESR) and what is known as a leaky capacitor. A leaky capacitor in this sense means it allows current to pass through when it shouldn't. ESR can change as the caps get older is not easy to test with a standard meter. By they way there is a smaller capacitor on the board and it could also be part of the problem. With the board disconnected from power measure the voltage across the capacitor with your meter set to a range greater than 250 volts DC. It has probably discharged and you will read close to zero volts. As others have said you can short them out, but it is best to have some resistance to put across the capacitor leads. If you haven't already check the fuse with your meter on a lower resistance range.
Good info Tim. Bob the cap is probably discharged you have been handling the board and haven't gotten nailed. It won't kill you if it is charged. If you still don't know just short the sucker out. All it will do is spark at the most. The switch you want is a dpdt type. A double pull double throw.
the long way just let it sit for few weeks to slowly disapate. or short the leads with a insulated screwdriver. good to see that you just went with the new control box. sorta like a mini upgrade to the lathe. plus now you have backup unit. have a marry Christmas and happy new year.
Discharge the capacitor with a 1 or 2 watt 1000 ohm resistor. Carefully hold the resistor with insulated pliers and go directly across the leads. Leave it across the leads for about 10secs. This will safely discharge the capacitor. I am an electronic repair tech and have discharged 1000's ot flash unit capacitors this way. If you replace the MOSFETS you need to use a grounding strap on your wrist. They can be damaged by static discharge before they're installed in the circuit.
Where did you get this new box? I went into my control box on my nova ll trying to fix my diriectional switch because it was it stuck on reverse. After that, it stopped working completely. Looking for advice..
When dealing with those large capacitors, It's best to use a resister to discharge them a bit more slowly, rather than shorting them with a screwdriver. I found this out from comments on a video I have about making shop lights from an lcd tv, I guess that shorting them out and discharging them can do damage to the capacitor. Also, if you remove the cap from the circuit board be sure you get the polarity right when you put it back on, they tend to explode rather violently if you power them up backwards. I hope you get it figured out.
RJBWoodTurner I put one in backwards a couple of years ago that was only 16v, it sounded like a 22 rifle being shot. A big cap like is on your board would not be fun if it popped.
LOL, It shouldn't have but that comment made me laugh. I ordered a bunch of parts today. Unfortunately they are all coming from China so it will be a while before a follow up.Regards,Bob
Discharge the capacitor with any insulated metal across the leads. I would use needle nose pliers or screwdriver. It almost instantly is discharged. Kind of like a static shock. You won’t see a spark unless it has a charge. To test, you need to have a microfarad setting on your meter, which looks something like -|€. Your capacitor is 1000 microfarads, so test between the leads and it should be within 5% of 1000.
Where did you get the new controller, I need to find a new one for my lathe. it doesn't look like that, but the insides are the same. I got a Mophorn brand 12 X 18 Thank you. Scott Brock
I purchased a replacement controller for the TurnCrafter lathe at www.pennstateind.com. That controller was specifically for that lathe so speak with them before purchasing one for your lathe to ensure it will work. Regards Bob
I wouldn't worry about discharging the Cap. You were handling the board and had your fingers across the terminals.. If there was a charge on it you would have dropped the board rather quickly. If you have a analog ohm meter you can use it to see if the cap takes a charge. Using the meter probes connect to the cap and the resistance reading will slowly rise until it reaches some maximum reading, this should be a high value several megohms. This type of test doesn't work too well with digital VOMs but some DVM have a capacitance measuring feature. Capacities of this type, usually when they fail show signs of failure. Like swelling leaking goo etc. I see non of that. here.
Cap'n Eddie Castelin video #190. He shows how to make a reversing switch for a DC motor variable speed mini lathe. I used this on my turncrafter lathe with Penn State's variable speed midi lathe conversion kit and that worked for me.
I got one from Banggood a year ago and its been sitting in the package. My only problem was I need one to figure out all the values for the resistors my eyes aren't that good anymore. :) I realized that at work I can use time waiting for processes to finish to work on this kind of stuff. I also just put together my LED Xmas tree just in time for the holidays.
Since I have had issues posting links here, I sent you an email one the one I just got put together. You can stick pretty much anything into it in any orientation and it should tell you what it is and then tests it.
Bob Great video. Just to clarify. You are going to be able to run this lathe from 500 - 3000 rpm and never have to change the belts from large to small pulleys? I feel dumb. I have had this same lathe for two years and constantly have to change belts/pulleys depending on if I am turning or sanding. Is there any concern that this will stress the motor by only using one set of pulleys all the time. Wow, can't wait to change mine tomorrow. Thanks for all your great videos.
Hello Joe, Yes, I can run from 500 to 3,000 and never change a belt. The tech at PSI suggested doing it this way. So far I haven’t seen any issues and I’m loving not having to swap that belt. Regards, Bob
Bob - I just changed my speed controls in my box. Running 505 - 2950 rpms on a single pulley. Be Christmas present ever! Thanks for the tip. I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and Happy New Year.
Here’s the parts I used. Lathe repair parts 1 X IRFP250 IRF250N Power MOSFET N-Channel 30A 200V (Medium size MOSFET) MUR166CTG U1660G 16A 600V AKA TO-220 Fast Recovery Diode FRD (Small Diode, I called it a MOSFET) ***Have*** KBJ1010 10A 1000V Bridge type Diode (Large diode, I called it a MOSFET) ***Have*** NTC 3D-20 Diode ***Have*** Ultra High Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound. ***Have*** Regards, Bob
I'm having speed control issues with my delta midi. It runs wide open tried replacing the potentiometer and no change. After see this video I went back to the and found these adjustments melted. Think I found my problem
@@RJBWoodTurner replaced the micro potentiometers still no change,still runs wide open. Now I believe it to be the MOSFET. I'm getting a through current from gate to drain.
You could just send it back to them and let them test and repair the board. then your surh to have to great control boxes. Plus if you want to make a deicated finishing machine you just have to buy a permanent magnet motor and build a stand to use just for drying and finishing. makes it nice to have a deadicated finishing place for drying finishes on bowls and such .
BEE HAPPY Wood Working and honeybees are you sure they would do that? I know of no one today that repairs components on a board. Is almost always swap it out. I doubt Penn State has anyone who would do it.
The Nova belongs to a friend of mine, I just had it for a week or two. I’m not 100% sold on the Turncrafter. As I do more kit less pens, the tolerance from headstock to tailstock list isn’t there. Regards, Bob
Look at episode 190 of capt eddie castellin. He shows how to do the wiring to reverse the lathe. I have the 12" model of your lathe and it worked for me.
My house is powered by 220V. So, I added a working step down converter to 110 V to connect my new lathe. nothing happens when I press the on button. not a single sound. This is a band new lathe and it is my first run. Any idea?
+rjbwoodturner I've enjoyed your videos. Well I had just started turning on an old lathe, completed two Christmas gifts and only had 3 left and my motor burned up. I once was a wood turner lol.
The ntc 3d-20 is to slow in rush current and I would not suspect any issue with it, nor would I expect anything with the cap as it visually looks ok. I did notice like a brown line where the mosfet meet the heat sink, personally as they are cheap I would just go ahead and change them first
To drain the capacitor just short the leads. It might spark. Testing with a normal multimeter may not show if its truly good or not, you will need an ESR meter. But truthfully, caps are so cheap its easier and cheaper just to toss it and get a brand new one. A cheap ESR meter is going to cost you 50 bucks. I've replaced a number of these speed controls on my lathe. They just don't last... well, other than a cheap harbor freight one which won't die.
I've seen Clive at bigclivedotcom just touch both ends with a small screw driver. Its not like a big pop and spark like you shorted out a 110 AC line its pretty much nothing. Years ago I used to power up capacitors that big and short them just to see the small spark. Also there maybe a resistor somewhere that drains it when off. It should also self discharge.
Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch www.parts-express.com/dpdt-heavy-duty-toggle-switch--060-566 is $2.75+shipping, have had good luck with this one. That black disk looks like a Metal-Oxide-Varister (MOV). Should have no connectivity if you put your ohm meter on it. Senses a voltage spike and welds itself together to force blowing the fuse.
The black disk is explained on another post. Its a thermistor used to clamp down on normal surges. I guess sort of the same thing but MOVs are for like lightning strikes and not "resetable".
Hi, great to see you have your lathe up and running. Now you have adjusted those two trim pots does that mean you do not have to change the belt to the other pulleys as you have a range from 500 - 3000 revs?Re getting reverse on your lathe Cap'n Eddie Castelin has video on how to do this on a Jet mini lathe. I did this to mine following his instructions, great having reverse but you must lock your chuck with a set screw to stop it unwinding and coming off, very nasty if it did. Link to Cap'n Eddie video th-cam.com/video/uhZVo-FyQaM/w-d-xo.html
ok first of all, touching those 2 pads on the capacitor is how to discharge it. by making contact!!! so dont touch it!!!! put a coin or a tool to short out the wires, and it will discharge. you almost did it with your finger!!
I was just about to say that, although 2 years too late. Never touch a capacitor, that has been powered up or its leads or soldered pads without checking the voltage accross the cap, if you do and its charged you are liable to be electrocuted. I had a faulty board with a big capacitor on my bench, which was fully charged and it stayed like it for a week before I discharged it. This is not a negative comment I just don't want you or anybody else hurt. James
Hey Bob, this was a great video with a lot of good information, thank you.
Thank you,
I’m happy you found it useful.
Regards,
Bob
Nice to see you up and running Bob
Thank you Nigel, it feels good to be after it again.
Regards,
Bob
Glad to see that you are back in business, $60.00 bucks is not to bad of a deal to get your lathe running. Good going.
Thank you, I was pleasantly surprised.
Regards,
Bob
Nice to see you up and running again bob.
Thank you, it feels great!
Regards,
Bob
If you add a reverse function to your lathe, be sure to tap your chuck to add a set screw so the chuck will not unscrew itself when running in reverse mode.
Excellent point, I don’t want that thing unwinding and flying off.
Regards,
Bob
I have the 12" version of that lathe. The switch you need to add reversing is a double-pole, double-throw switch - less than $6 at Home Despot. The only problem is where to mount it. There isn't a lot of free space in the box.
I have purchased the switch, and also an auxiliary box to contain it, and just need to find the time and motivation to remove the power converter box and mount the auxiliary box on the outside somewhere. The most convenient location is on the left side with the power converter installed on the lathe so that the switch is accessible when operating the lathe - which means on outside of the box adjacent to the large heat sink (on the right when the box is open).
By the way, King Canada sells a version of this lathe with a reversing switch mounted on the front 'control panel' of the box - to the left of the speed knob with the box mounted on the lathe.
As others have said, all you have to do to discharge the capacitor is short the terminals with a screwdriver. It looked in the video like you may have done that with your finger, so if you didn't feel anything, that suggests it is already discharged. When I was a kid, I would leave charged capacitors lying on the desk in my room so that if my sister tried to poke around, she would get a shock! We're still friends!
Your video inspired me to try installing the reversing switch, but I concluded that the only place to mount an auxiliary box would obstruct air flow through the vents next to the heat sink - not a good idea. So I need to think about it some more. Reversing would be nice, but its not necessary.
LOL, that’s a funny trick. Thank you for the info on the switch. I need to try referring this lathe.
Regards,
Bob
I agree , its a nice to have.
I used to touch electricity just to get a jolt. I guess I "was" a weird kid! Was going to tell Bob that the switches are cheap and can be bought just about at any hardware store. My local sells them too!
So glad you got it going Bob, take care
Thank you Val.
Regards,
Bob
Congratulations on new control box
Thank you Kenny.
Regards,
Bob
Hi. If that was my lathe I would put a piece of cloth over the top of the controller to keep wood chips and dust out of the controllers air vent. Great job. Enjoyed the video.
But then you are restricting air flow much worse than dust.
The video may not show this clearly - the box is actually closed on all sides and is reasonably tight. My version (the same s Bob's older version) has some air holes adjacent to the heat sink. Sawdust does get into the box, and tends to build up around the heat sink. But my experience is that the amount of dust that accumulates is relatively small, so an annual cleaning is probably all that it needs.
I was thinking about that but the electronic bank from the top of the box so nothing settles on them.
Regards,
Bob
Good info on setting the trimpots for the max high and low. I may have to do that myself on my lathe.
Thank you Kyle.
I plan to keep plugging away at this one.
Regards,
Bob
I did confirm with parts and service but your video was a great guide for tweaking my lathe speed. Thanks!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Fantastic Bob! Happy turning
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
The MOSFET's are probably held to the heatsinks with a small screw or nut and bolt and may have a mica or silicone insulator between it and the heatsink. It also may use some heatsink compound to transfer any heat to the heatsink. If it is there and not hardened, you probably can reuse it when installing the new ones. A part number should be on the MOSFET's. If you find a good electronics store they can look up an equivalent part number for a replacement. I recommend bolting them to the heatsink before soldering them back to the circuit board. Glad to see your lathe is back in operation.
Thank you Glen,
Thank you for the info on the Mosfets.
Regards,
Bob
An easy way to discharge the cap would be put a large resistance across the terminals. By ohm's law V=IR so the voltage in the cap would dissipate through the resistance with a small current. This might take some time depending on how much is stored in the cap but you can figure out how long it would be by looking RC circuits online. as far as testing may try putting a voltage to it and seeing if it holds the charge after sometime. Hope that helps
Thank you Kyle.
Regards,
Bob
The NTC 3D20 is PT Series -Power Type NTC Thermistor. The resistance should be about 3 ohms at room temperature and the resistance goes down as it gets warm. The thermistor is there to limit the current when you flip the switch. They can fail, in fact I have seen more than one where one of the leads falls off. Use your meter on the lower resistance range and see if it reads close to 3 ohms. The resistance will go to less than 0.1 ohms when it has reached temperature. You can check it by using a hair dryer and blowing warm air on it. The resistance should/will go down. For a data sheet just type NTC 3D20 in Google.
I have seen multiple comments that the capacitor looks fine so it is probably okay. I won't say the cap is bad, but to say it is okay is not necessarily true. Capacitors have multiple failure modes. Two other common modes are high equivalent series resistance (ESR) and what is known as a leaky capacitor. A leaky capacitor in this sense means it allows current to pass through when it shouldn't. ESR can change as the caps get older is not easy to test with a standard meter. By they way there is a smaller capacitor on the board and it could also be part of the problem.
With the board disconnected from power measure the voltage across the capacitor with your meter set to a range greater than 250 volts DC. It has probably discharged and you will read close to zero volts. As others have said you can short them out, but it is best to have some resistance to put across the capacitor leads.
If you haven't already check the fuse with your meter on a lower resistance range.
Good info Tim. Bob the cap is probably discharged you have been handling the board and haven't gotten nailed.
It won't kill you if it is charged. If you still don't know just short the sucker out. All it will do is spark at the most.
The switch you want is a dpdt type. A double pull double throw.
Wow Tim! Thank you for all this great info.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Dave.
Regards,
Bob
the long way just let it sit for few weeks to slowly disapate. or short the leads with a insulated screwdriver. good to see that you just went with the new control box. sorta like a mini upgrade to the lathe. plus now you have backup unit. have a marry Christmas and happy new year.
Thank you,
Merry Christmas.
Discharge the capacitor with a 1 or 2 watt 1000 ohm resistor. Carefully hold the resistor with insulated pliers and go directly across the leads. Leave it across the leads for about 10secs. This will safely discharge the capacitor. I am an electronic repair tech and have discharged 1000's ot flash unit capacitors this way. If you replace the MOSFETS you need to use a grounding strap on your wrist. They can be damaged by static discharge before they're installed in the circuit.
Thank you Ronald,
Excellent information and I hadn’t thought about a grounding strap.
Regards,
Bob
Where did you get this new box?
I went into my control box on my nova ll trying to fix my diriectional switch because it was it stuck on reverse. After that, it stopped working completely.
Looking for advice..
I got it directly from Penn State Industries. You have to call them as they don’t list the control box in the catalog.
Regards,
Bob
When dealing with those large capacitors, It's best to use a resister to discharge them a bit more slowly, rather than shorting them with a screwdriver. I found this out from comments on a video I have about making shop lights from an lcd tv, I guess that shorting them out and discharging them can do damage to the capacitor. Also, if you remove the cap from the circuit board be sure you get the polarity right when you put it back on, they tend to explode rather violently if you power them up backwards. I hope you get it figured out.
Thank you, I hadn’t thought about the polarity. You probably saved me on that.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner I put one in backwards a couple of years ago that was only 16v, it sounded like a 22 rifle being shot. A big cap like is on your board would not be fun if it popped.
LOL, It shouldn't have but that comment made me laugh. I ordered a bunch of parts today. Unfortunately they are all coming from China so it will be a while before a follow up.Regards,Bob
Discharge the capacitor with any insulated metal across the leads. I would use needle nose pliers or screwdriver. It almost instantly is discharged. Kind of like a static shock. You won’t see a spark unless it has a charge. To test, you need to have a microfarad setting on your meter, which looks something like -|€. Your capacitor is 1000 microfarads, so test between the leads and it should be within 5% of 1000.
Thank you Kyle.
Regards,
Bob
That capacitor is already discharged! If not, you would have zapped yourself when you touched both posts.
Where did you get the new controller, I need to find a new one for my lathe. it doesn't look like that, but the insides are the same. I got a Mophorn brand 12 X 18
Thank you.
Scott Brock
I purchased a replacement controller for the TurnCrafter lathe at www.pennstateind.com.
That controller was specifically for that lathe so speak with them before purchasing one for your lathe to ensure it will work.
Regards
Bob
I wouldn't worry about discharging the Cap. You were handling the board and had your fingers across the terminals.. If there was a charge on it you would have dropped the board rather quickly. If you have a analog ohm meter you can use it to see if the cap takes a charge. Using the meter probes connect to the cap and the resistance reading will slowly rise until it reaches some maximum reading, this should be a high value several megohms. This type of test doesn't work too well with digital VOMs but some DVM have a capacitance measuring feature. Capacities of this type, usually when they fail show signs of failure. Like swelling leaking goo etc. I see non of that. here.
Thank you John.
Regards,
Bob
Cap'n Eddie Castelin video #190. He shows how to make a reversing switch for a DC motor variable speed mini lathe. I used this on my turncrafter lathe with Penn State's variable speed midi lathe conversion kit and that worked for me.
Awesome!!! Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
glad you got it going bob
Thank you Gene.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, I wounder if the control box from the comet II lathe would work on your lathe?
It might have, most of them appear to be the same.
Regards,
Bob
As for testing I just put together a kit that tests electrical components like MOSFETs and capacitors. Its not usually a multi meter kind of thing.
Those kits are dead handy aren't they? Cheap, fun to build and functional.
I got one from Banggood a year ago and its been sitting in the package. My only problem was I need one to figure out all the values for the resistors my eyes aren't that good anymore. :)
I realized that at work I can use time waiting for processes to finish to work on this kind of stuff. I also just put together my LED Xmas tree just in time for the holidays.
I have started to make one of those cheapo LED trees every year, the rubbish one with the basic LEDs - for added humbug value hehe.
Interesting. I make need to build one to test.
Regards,
Bob
Since I have had issues posting links here, I sent you an email one the one I just got put together.
You can stick pretty much anything into it in any orientation and it should tell you what it is and then tests it.
Donde compraste uno nuevo
Www.pennstatend.com is where I bought it.
You will have to call them to order one.
Well done Rob :)
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Bob
Great video. Just to clarify. You are going to be able to run this lathe from 500 - 3000 rpm and never have to change the belts from large to small pulleys? I feel dumb. I have had this same lathe for two years and constantly have to change belts/pulleys depending on if I am turning or sanding. Is there any concern that this will stress the motor by only using one set of pulleys all the time. Wow, can't wait to change mine tomorrow. Thanks for all your great videos.
Hello Joe,
Yes, I can run from 500 to 3,000 and never change a belt. The tech at PSI suggested doing it this way. So far I haven’t seen any issues and I’m loving not having to swap that belt.
Regards,
Bob
Bob - I just changed my speed controls in my box. Running 505 - 2950 rpms on a single pulley. Be Christmas present ever! Thanks for the tip. I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and Happy New Year.
Bob I have one of those lathes and the control box just went out. Did you get your replacement fro PSI ?
Thxs
Phil
Hello Phil,
I sure did. You will need to call the 800 number and they will put you on with the technician who can sell you the box.
Regards,
Bob
Can I know the type and name of the IC inside the DZ-236A1 board? The IC name on my board has been erased.
Here’s the parts I used.
Lathe repair parts
1 X IRFP250 IRF250N Power MOSFET N-Channel 30A 200V (Medium size MOSFET)
MUR166CTG U1660G 16A 600V AKA TO-220 Fast Recovery Diode FRD (Small Diode, I called it a MOSFET)
***Have***
KBJ1010 10A 1000V Bridge type Diode (Large diode, I called it a MOSFET)
***Have***
NTC 3D-20 Diode
***Have***
Ultra High Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound.
***Have***
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thanks a lot.:)
I'm having speed control issues with my delta midi. It runs wide open tried replacing the potentiometer and no change. After see this video I went back to the and found these adjustments melted. Think I found my problem
That is awesome!!!
I’m glad this video was helpful to you.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner replaced the micro potentiometers still no change,still runs wide open. Now I believe it to be the MOSFET. I'm getting a through current from gate to drain.
You could just send it back to them and let them test and repair the board. then your surh to have to great control boxes. Plus if you want to make a deicated finishing machine you just have to buy a permanent magnet motor and build a stand to use just for drying and finishing. makes it nice to have a deadicated finishing place for drying finishes on bowls and such .
BEE HAPPY Wood Working and honeybees are you sure they would do that? I know of no one today that repairs components on a board. Is almost always swap it out.
I doubt Penn State has anyone who would do it.
Thank you.
This was almost as good as a car vid haha . Congrats on getting it up and running . Take care.
Thank you, I’m really happy.
Regards,
Bob
Quick question. I noticed in your videos you have the turnmaster and the nova. Which 12 inch would you recomend?
The Nova belongs to a friend of mine, I just had it for a week or two. I’m not 100% sold on the Turncrafter. As I do more kit less pens, the tolerance from headstock to tailstock list isn’t there.
Regards,
Bob
Rob,
I'm unable to locate this control box on Penn State's website.
Could you please provide the product number ?
Thanks !!!!
You have to call them and ask to speak to tech support. They don’t advertise that they sell them.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner
Thanks for the quick reply, Rob !
Any idea whether this box would work on the Harbor Freight 10x18 lathe ?
It will NOT! HF is AC motor. TurnCrafter is DC.
Just wondering do you still have your HF lathe? I was under the weather and missed when you got this lathe. Just asking Best Regards BobLee
Glad you’re feeling better Bob, it’s still in my shop but I’ve given it away. I’m waiting for the fella to pick it up.
Regards,
Bob
Look at episode 190 of capt eddie castellin. He shows how to do the wiring to reverse the lathe. I have the 12" model of your lathe and it worked for me.
Thank you Steve.
Regards,
Bob
My house is powered by 220V. So, I added a working step down converter to 110 V to connect my new lathe. nothing happens when I press the on button. not a single sound. This is a band new lathe and it is my first run. Any idea?
I’d call the company you purchased it from. They’d be better able to help you than I would.
Regards,
Bob
I did. They will send a new control box. I'm surprised, a new lathe with a defective motor control.
Thanks for your help.
+rjbwoodturner I've enjoyed your videos. Well I had just started turning on an old lathe, completed two Christmas gifts and only had 3 left and my motor burned up. I once was a wood turner lol.
Ouch! I know that feeling. I’ve had three lathes go bad on me. This one was the only one I was able to repair.
Regards,
Bob
The ntc 3d-20 is to slow in rush current and I would not suspect any issue with it, nor would I expect anything with the cap as it visually looks ok. I did notice like a brown line where the mosfet meet the heat sink, personally as they are cheap I would just go ahead and change them first
yes I would say everything on this board is cheaper to replace that the cost of the tester.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Rob.
Regards,
Bob
To drain the capacitor just short the leads. It might spark. Testing with a normal multimeter may not show if its truly good or not, you will need an ESR meter. But truthfully, caps are so cheap its easier and cheaper just to toss it and get a brand new one. A cheap ESR meter is going to cost you 50 bucks. I've replaced a number of these speed controls on my lathe. They just don't last... well, other than a cheap harbor freight one which won't die.
Thank you for the info.
Regards,
Bob
DPST switch hooked up as an H bridge. Shouldn't cost that much unless I'm missing something.
Maybe one with Center Off. So it's forward one direction, off, reverse.
Thank you Cliff.
Regards,
Bob
Good info, keep it coming.
Regards,
Bob
I've seen Clive at bigclivedotcom just touch both ends with a small screw driver. Its not like a big pop and spark like you shorted out a 110 AC line its pretty much nothing. Years ago I used to power up capacitors that big and short them just to see the small spark.
Also there maybe a resistor somewhere that drains it when off. It should also self discharge.
This guy is right Bob. Also a Big Clive subscriber, such a great channel.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Cliff.
Regards,
Bob
The capacitor is 1000 microfarads at 250 volts. Probably not the problem though.
Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch www.parts-express.com/dpdt-heavy-duty-toggle-switch--060-566 is $2.75+shipping, have had good luck with this one. That black disk looks like a Metal-Oxide-Varister (MOV). Should have no connectivity if you put your ohm meter on it. Senses a voltage spike and welds itself together to force blowing the fuse.
Thank you Bill,
I need one of these and a project box.
Regards,
Bob
The black disk is explained on another post. Its a thermistor used to clamp down on normal surges. I guess sort of the same thing but MOVs are for like lightning strikes and not "resetable".
This is correct. ADPDT switch will doe the reversing for much cheaper. They are not hard to find .
Ah, right... "NTC". MOVs definitely not resetable, and sometimes rather crispy :)
Hi, great to see you have your lathe up and running. Now you have adjusted those two trim pots does that mean you do not have to change the belt to the other pulleys as you have a range from 500 - 3000 revs?Re getting reverse on your lathe Cap'n Eddie Castelin has video on how to do this on a Jet mini lathe. I did this to mine following his instructions, great having reverse but you must lock your chuck with a set screw to stop it unwinding and coming off, very nasty if it did. Link to Cap'n Eddie video th-cam.com/video/uhZVo-FyQaM/w-d-xo.html
Yes,
I should not have to change the belts. Good idea on locking the chuck. I don’t want that coming off and landing on my foot.
Regards,
Bob
ok first of all, touching those 2 pads on the capacitor is how to discharge it. by making contact!!! so dont touch it!!!!
put a coin or a tool to short out the wires, and it will discharge.
you almost did it with your finger!!
LOL, I’m glad I didn’t discharge it with my hand.
Regards,
Bob
I was just about to say that, although 2 years too late. Never touch a capacitor, that has been powered up or its leads or soldered pads without checking the voltage accross the cap, if you do and its charged you are liable to be electrocuted. I had a faulty board with a big capacitor on my bench, which was fully charged and it stayed like it for a week before I discharged it.
This is not a negative comment I just don't want you or anybody else hurt.
James
6:40 trimmer pots.
Yup. I have mine set for a speed range of 50-2200 r/min on the large pulley, and twice that on the small pulley.
Thank you Louie.
Regards,
Bob
Where did you purchase this
Directly from Penn State. You have to call them. It’s not in the catalog.
Regards,
Bob