This is the wisest solution to a complicated job take your whole dash apart to access the blower mower this made the job a lot easier thank you for the video
I followed your instructions to the letter. And I have to say this, Thank You for putting this on TH-cam. All the parts came right out and the New Blower Motor went right back in as well as the parts that needed to be removed to put the Blower Motor in. Well done Sir, Well done.
I know I'm a "Car Guy" I just don't know everything about cars yet. I just love cars and machines. I wish I could just instantly know everything about every make and model for each year car. I wish there was a faster way to learn auto mechanics. I'm sure I'm not alone that's why this channel is great.
Yeah, Not quiet sure what's up with cutting plastic to be able to change any motor. Glad it doesn't have to be replaced tho. Dang GM wanna make sure it takes longer to cut the darn plastic then changing the motor.. SMH .. Thanks for the video extremely helpful..
nice demonstration of how to use a scope with cars I got a DSO for hobby electronics but I'm not really competent in it's use with cars yet I used it to read a transmission speed sensor but that's it so far I would have liked to see the waveform after you put the new motor in though, because when it's inside the cowling it's more loaded than in free air and the waveform should change (?) I just replaced the exact same blower out of my lumina van, I thought it was trouble, but this is worse !!
I have a weird problem. I have a computer climate controlled system. I actually had three connectors on the blower motor. I had the standard 2 prong connector ( it is different from the manual controlled system, and this thing had a third prong outside the connector. I have found out it is not a ground. ( I can send a picture ) . The replacement units don't have a connector for this, and the AC/Delco unit has a pin like it on the outer part of the motor that is a ground. I have tried grounding this wire, and should have tested it first for voltage. It appears to have 12 V going though it. I suspect its a speed sensor. The problem is that the original motor allowed the computer climate control to set the actuator for floor, defrost, front vents or any combination. With this cable disconnected due to no connector, the floor vents no longer work individually. I can do floor in combination with defrost or front vents, but the computer won't put it in floor only. When I connected this wire to ground, it killed the motor, and now my trip odometer rests every time I start the truck. I suspect I burned something up. In any case, what is this wire and where the heck do I find the right motor. Thank You , Hugh McCreery
Excellent Video , thank you for showing us , Exactly what GM cleverly Disguised with Plastic. That Piece of Plastic Served one very Important purpose....FOR GM...that was so the Consumer would NOT know What to do and thus bring the vehicle back to the Dealer . On the Older, Pre 1990 Vehicles, this was a very simple 20 minute job. Now it's a Puzzle that GM Hopes You Will Not Solve. thanks to Honest Folks like you, we can do it ourselves. Thanks Again.
While I share your sentiment that it would be nice if cars were designed to be easier to maintain and repair, I disagree that GM designed the motor housing cover just to confuse anyone and push people into dealerships. I submit the following to support my case. 1) The plastic housing says "For motor service cut here." 2) All the repair manuals instruct not to remove, but to cut the outer motor housing to replace the motor. As for the design, I think a waterproof, insulated motor housing is better than no housing if it accomplishes at least two things--A) preventing even a little bit of unnecessary heat exchange between the engine and the blower motor/firewall, and B) providing for quieter operation. So this being said, a better question on your part would be this: "Why not design the blower-motor/evaporator housing to be both better insulated AND more maintainable?? Or.....why even stop there? Why not just make the WHOLE vehicle more maintainable? If nothing else, I'd settle for drain plugs in the transmission pan and the rear differential..
First of all I want to thank you for taking the time to make these very informative videos. However there are others on youtube that are much better. There are many steps left out that other videos include. Such as the number of screws or bolts, their exact locations and the size of the sockets needed. Try to always be talking as you are performing a step. There should never be a time when you are not talking about what you are doing unless you are fast forwarding the footage or skipping ahead. Also close ups of what you are doing would help greatly. Again thanks for making these wonderful videos.
thanks for the video! mine not gone YET but when i put it on AC/MAX it sounds like a leaf in it. do you think it is a leaf or the Bearings? i can't see how a leaf could get in there.. tight fit!!! i also subscribed to your channel. would love to see some more Blazer things.. Thanks again!
The plastic housing is part of the air duck passage way. Like in your home the air travels from the source to each room thru the ductwork. So, yes it matters to function efficiently..
@@realfixesrealfast It's a 96 blazer and the fan is putting out very little air unless you are on the interstate and then you get just enough to feel that the AC is working. Can it be replaced or is it a job for duck tape?
@@laurel7562 The box is probably broken and not directing all the air as it should. Duck tape will work temporarily enough for you to realize if it is the cause. But duck tape won't last. You will be back there again soon. Also, it is possible a "blend door" is not opening and/or closing correctly. The blend doors change position to direct the air flow. Your 96 model probably has vacuum controlled doors. Check for a vacuum leak.
Yes it's the same blower motor as the rest you have to rewire it it's easy just need wire cutters to splice to new connection and ground it to blower with the old clip it wI'll work just make sure you put positive and negative wires in right spots or u will blow a fuse any problems just text
Excellent I went to O'Rielly auto picked up a $30 blower motor for my 97 rodeo and it was in 2 hours done..thanks ...Ok I have a vacuum leak?? MY AC air only blows out the defrosters on the dash, the vent in the dashboard is stuck closed...how to you find the leak and get the vacuum working..there is really small vacuum line running across the engine pretty old how the heck to you replace it to get vacuum line working properly on the climate control panel inside the the car??
The Varus is out of reach for most shady tree mechanics. I've been looking at the Rigol 1052E Oscillosocope, worth about $400. It's a digital storage scope, so you can save and export a wave form. Not CAT III safe, but I'm not sure that quality is critical. I worry about frying it if I make a mistake, but that risk is there with an automotive scope as well. With the Varus you get tech bulletins, but I believe the subscription fee is a problem. Anybody care to comment?
just replaced blower motor and resistor and it does not work on high. Any idea on where the relay for it is at. Tested power at blower motor and does not get any power on high.
Should be on the fire wall three screws has a plug to disconect its calledblower motor resistor.the side you cant see has four coils springs all different diamaters.and three resiters plug has for connectors pins streight across.when you have the motor out make shore the coilsin side are clear no debree cloging air flow and try to replace the air filters because they can be clogged blocking air flow the resister can be damaged by not enough air flow , they are cooled buy the air the going through the blower motor and produce a little heat for the system at the same time when the heat is on.and none when it turned off.that explanes it.hope this helps.dont bend the coils up cleaning with a vac.you should disinfect the with something ask a heating and air guy the it should be as new.
lol this is silly. Why would they have someone cut a part off like this and then not replace it? Great Video though! I'm not frustrating at you, just... GM wtf?! That's a weird place for a motor to begin with, but then to just be cutting plastic off to access something seems like lack of engineering on GM's part.
This is the wisest solution to a complicated job take your whole dash apart to access the blower mower this made the job a lot easier thank you for the video
Thank you! That helped a lot to figure out why my blower wasn’t working
I followed your instructions to the letter. And I have to say this, Thank You for putting this on TH-cam.
All the parts came right out and the New Blower Motor went right back in as well as the parts that needed to be removed to put the Blower Motor in.
Well done Sir, Well done.
I could tell by the sound the motor was dragging due to worn bushings or worn brushes. Great video. Thanks for posting.
I know I'm a "Car Guy" I just don't know everything about cars yet. I just love cars and machines. I wish I could just instantly know everything about every make and model for each year car. I wish there was a faster way to learn auto mechanics. I'm sure I'm not alone that's why this channel is great.
I just replaced my blower and this video was a great help. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Great video and big help! Just saved myself a bunch of money! Thanks for all the great work you do!
Yeah, Not quiet sure what's up with cutting plastic to be able to change any motor. Glad it doesn't have to be replaced tho. Dang GM wanna make sure it takes longer to cut the darn plastic then changing the motor.. SMH .. Thanks for the video extremely helpful..
it's because the motor is behind the plastic but you don't have to put the plastic back ! I think I have to do that too !
nice demonstration of how to use a scope with cars
I got a DSO for hobby electronics but I'm not really competent in it's use with cars yet
I used it to read a transmission speed sensor but that's it so far
I would have liked to see the waveform after you put the new motor in though, because when it's inside the cowling it's more loaded than in free air and the waveform should change (?)
I just replaced the exact same blower out of my lumina van, I thought it was trouble, but this is worse !!
Thanks that really helped, I was concerned about destroying the plastic casing. I see it was meant to be destroyed. Other than that it’s an easy job.
Thanks. I am fixing to tackle this on my Blazer.
Ooooh I'm gonna have fun next weekend. My blower won't work if I hit it or not. Freezing without it. '95 Jimmy
Thank you! That is really good to know for troubleshooting motors.
Worked like a charm. Thanks
Thanks for sharing this info...going to be very handy someday soon..
I have a weird problem. I have a computer climate controlled system. I actually had three connectors on the blower motor. I had the standard 2 prong connector ( it is different from the manual controlled system, and this thing had a third prong outside the connector. I have found out it is not a ground. ( I can send a picture ) . The replacement units don't have a connector for this, and the AC/Delco unit has a pin like it on the outer part of the motor that is a ground. I have tried grounding this wire, and should have tested it first for voltage. It appears to have 12 V going though it. I suspect its a speed sensor. The problem is that the original motor allowed the computer climate control to set the actuator for floor, defrost, front vents or any combination. With this cable disconnected due to no connector, the floor vents no longer work individually. I can do floor in combination with defrost or front vents, but the computer won't put it in floor only. When I connected this wire to ground, it killed the motor, and now my trip odometer rests every time I start the truck. I suspect I burned something up.
In any case, what is this wire and where the heck do I find the right motor.
Thank You ,
Hugh McCreery
Hugh McCreery did u ever find where to buy it
I love the background music you got goin on there in the workshop Dwane :P
fantastic video thank you for posting!
Excellent Video , thank you for showing us , Exactly what GM cleverly Disguised with Plastic. That Piece of Plastic Served one very Important purpose....FOR GM...that was so the Consumer would NOT know What to do and thus bring the vehicle back to the Dealer . On the Older, Pre 1990 Vehicles, this was a very simple 20 minute job. Now it's a Puzzle that GM Hopes You Will Not Solve. thanks to Honest Folks like you, we can do it ourselves. Thanks Again.
While I share your sentiment that it would be nice if cars were designed to be easier to maintain and repair, I disagree that GM designed the motor housing cover just to confuse anyone and push people into dealerships. I submit the following to support my case. 1) The plastic housing says "For motor service cut here." 2) All the repair manuals instruct not to remove, but to cut the outer motor housing to replace the motor. As for the design, I think a waterproof, insulated motor housing is better than no housing if it accomplishes at least two things--A) preventing even a little bit of unnecessary heat exchange between the engine and the blower motor/firewall, and B) providing for quieter operation. So this being said, a better question on your part would be this: "Why not design the blower-motor/evaporator housing to be both better insulated AND more maintainable?? Or.....why even stop there? Why not just make the WHOLE vehicle more maintainable? If nothing else, I'd settle for drain plugs in the transmission pan and the rear differential..
yhh
Great video!
I have a question. Can I test the motor with a multi meter if I don't have a wave reader?
First of all I want to thank you for taking the time to make these very informative videos. However there are others on youtube that are much better. There are many steps left out that other videos include. Such as the number of screws or bolts, their exact locations and the size of the sockets needed. Try to always be talking as you are performing a step. There should never be a time when you are not talking about what you are doing unless you are fast forwarding the footage or skipping ahead. Also close ups of what you are doing would help greatly. Again thanks for making these wonderful videos.
Thanks for the help !!!
thanks for the video! mine not gone YET but when i put it on AC/MAX it sounds like a leaf in it. do you think it is a leaf or the Bearings? i can't see how a leaf could get in there.. tight fit!!! i also subscribed to your channel. would love to see some more Blazer things.. Thanks again!
Is there a way to check using multimeter Tks 👍🏻
My plastic casing is very brittle and is missing pieces on top above the fan. Does that matter?
The plastic housing is part of the air duck passage way. Like in your home the air travels from the source to each room thru the ductwork. So, yes it matters to function efficiently..
@@realfixesrealfast It's a 96 blazer and the fan is putting out very little air unless you are on the interstate and then you get just enough to feel that the AC is working. Can it be replaced or is it a job for duck tape?
@@laurel7562 The box is probably broken and not directing all the air as it should. Duck tape will work temporarily enough for you to realize if it is the cause. But duck tape won't last. You will be back there again soon. Also, it is possible a "blend door" is not opening and/or closing correctly. The blend doors change position to direct the air flow. Your 96 model probably has vacuum controlled doors. Check for a vacuum leak.
my blower motor on my 2000 oldsmobile bravada has a metal tab next to the plug .All the new ones i looked at do not fit mine .please help
I'm having the same problem,Did you ever find a solution?
Yes it's the same blower motor as the rest you have to rewire it it's easy just need wire cutters to splice to new connection and ground it to blower with the old clip it wI'll work just make sure you put positive and negative wires in right spots or u will blow a fuse any problems just text
Do u guys know where is da blower motor fuse located at ?? Help
just great !
Excellent I went to O'Rielly auto picked up a $30 blower motor for my 97 rodeo and it was in 2 hours done..thanks ...Ok I have a vacuum leak?? MY AC air only blows out the defrosters on the dash, the vent in the dashboard is stuck closed...how to you find the leak and get the vacuum working..there is really small vacuum line running across the engine pretty old how the heck to you replace it to get vacuum line working properly on the climate control panel inside the the car??
The Varus is out of reach for most shady tree mechanics. I've been looking at the Rigol 1052E Oscillosocope, worth about $400. It's a digital storage scope, so you can save and export a wave form. Not CAT III safe, but I'm not sure that quality is critical. I worry about frying it if I make a mistake, but that risk is there with an automotive scope as well. With the Varus you get tech bulletins, but I believe the subscription fee is a problem. Anybody care to comment?
just replaced blower motor and resistor and it does not work on high. Any idea on where the relay for it is at. Tested power at blower motor and does not get any power on high.
Should be on the fire wall three screws has a plug to disconect its calledblower motor resistor.the side you cant see has four coils springs all different diamaters.and three resiters plug has for connectors pins streight across.when you have the motor out make shore the coilsin side are clear no debree cloging air flow and try to replace the air filters because they can be clogged blocking air flow the resister can be damaged by not enough air flow , they are cooled buy the air the going through the blower motor and produce a little heat for the system at the same time when the heat is on.and none when it turned off.that explanes it.hope this helps.dont bend the coils up cleaning with a vac.you should disinfect the with something ask a heating and air guy the it should be as new.
does this work also on a 2000 chevy blazer 4.3L
Gee,why didn't I think of using my 1000$ ?
lol this is silly. Why would they have someone cut a part off like this and then not replace it? Great Video though! I'm not frustrating at you, just... GM wtf?! That's a weird place for a motor to begin with, but then to just be cutting plastic off to access something seems like lack of engineering on GM's part.
likes makita
I hate fixing american cars, they are always so bulky and time consuming.
They should keep them simple (yeah, but that's an old Asian quote, lol)
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