So many don't know how to do the hand work anymore, it's nice to see someone who can show how it should be done. I was taught by my father to do so many of the things you show in your videos. I'm glad you can show folks the older, better ways to do stuff.
Thank you for sharing, I wish youtube would go back to a time like this where people shared their passion and knowledge for the sake of it, not to make a quick buck.
What a fantastic video of how to build a very nice vertical model steam engine boiler in a home shop! I always wondered too, just how to add a water sight glass and you showed just how to do that! I am now ready to go and build mine! Keep the great videos coming! Regards, Karl in Michigan, USA
Just a simple THANKYOU for sharing the knowledge and the tips and tricks so that more of us can dabble in areas we may not have the training to do, but still want to give it a go anyway.
Another fine video and a lovely job. I cnc'd the formers for someone to "spin" the the brass part that goes on top of a traction engine once. They put the former in a lathe and spun the brass sheet around the former. Having said that, it is so nice to see such a skilled pair of hands using relatively basic tools, doing a very fine job indeed.
My Uncle Torfin was given a small boiler/steam engine for a birthday in about 1912 some how it came to my Father, his younger brother, in the early 60's it ran fine.
Oh, I love watching you jam the red handle directly into your palm at 13:20. It's machinist BDSM. I always look both ways to make sure my supervisor isn't waking down the aisle first... That's as far as I take safety personally.
Very well made step by step instructive video, and good workmanship. Nothing can go wrong even for a beginner. I have bookmarked the page in my electronic diary and subscribed too. I hope someday in future, when I have some time, I shall make the boiler. Will make frequent visits to your site for more excitement. Thanks.
I had half a notion that you were going to make the barrel out of flat sheet and roll and solder it together, but given the availability of copper pipe in so many diameters I totally understand why you didn't. (I do have no doubt that you could have made your own barrel with relative ease after watching all your videos). I guess on a side note that building a pressure vessel you are better off / safer with seamless tubing versus soldering your own barrel as well. Looking forward to future videos in this build and many more!
Brilliant, so much better getting instructive subtitles with the soundtrack but without the usual pointless waffle. Great vid, great content more please!
it's been a while since I checked in, I see you've been busy! When you were sanding the cap on the lathe, I thought to myself "no, don't be sanding the sides"!!! one of those jaws on the chuck would leave an owy on yer knuckle !!! (to say the least)
Brilliant video as usual. Now For all the peeps who insist on using a Dremel tool for everything, you are now going to have to do an instructional video on Hacksaws :o) don't forget to tell them about tooth direction, because our apprentices never seem to even get that bit right..
@@myfordboy ok thanks, that's a lot less than my guess. Quite some savings considering the price of copper! I'm planning to make a simple boiler for my Stuart 10V Wich will probably be based off this design
Great video! Your hands look about as old as mine. I'd put you between 55 to 62 years old. Those metal shop teachers taught us well didn't they? You were listening in class. :-) Your videos are just awesome!
Don't quench the metal if you are trying to anneal it. A quench locks in the crystal structure, hardening it. Heat it, let it cool slow ly. It will be much softer and workable. Annealing is heating to just under critical temp, then gradually easing off the temp to allow the crystals to disalign.
Great instructional video. I’m going to make a similar boiler. It will be my very first boiler attempt. I’m OK with hand tools and basic machining. I have two questions, if you could help, please. Where do you buy your copper and other materials? Will a Mapp gas hand held ‘plumbers type’ gas torch give enough heat for the soldering and annealing operations? Thanks very much.
I don't think a plumbers map torch would work as it a small area of flame. The copper needs to be red hot for the solder to flow and it takes a lot of heat. Materials can be bought from model engineer suppliers.
I have made several small engines and spin the caps. Much easier, neater, you don't need to anneal the material and more precise. Even better with Brass. I learned to spin material from a friend many years ago who used tp spin prothetic limbs.
when hammer tipping on a metal edge as you are doing. try using a soft face hammer, wood, rawhide, compothane. it will help to encourage the metal to shrink. rather than stretch. I believe you would have reached your shape much quicker. then once the shape is really close you can planish with a steel hammer to desired finish.
Thank you, why didn't you roll form it with a bearing on the lathe? Don't get me wrong the old technique of hand forging a boiler plate works and people should always learn this way as not everyone has a lathe but it would seem to have been a lot quicker and neater and a lot less trouble for the hangover. :-= ) A very nice boiler, thanks for the video
it is a nice way to do it and helps teaches people traditional skills that they can use here and on other projects and of course it is important that we do that a otherwise it will be a skill lost to machines. I enjoyed the rest of the series as well thank you,.@@myfordboy
Thanks for sharing, I am busy with my 1st copper boiler for a steam engine and I learnt a lot watching you. What is the thickness of the copper plate on the walls and end caps?
fantastic video, it is nice to see some one using the former and annealing the ends. It is a slight shame you used the lathe for a finish on the ends, I understand it will be second nature for you but most will not have a mettle lathe and I would have loved to see how you might finish the ends without one. Perhaps a hair smaller former and rolling it on a hard flat surface. Anyhow thank you.
+John Creasey I have spun stainless steel end caps in the lathe. They were used for the cylinder ends of Striling engines. It's not difficult. Copper would be easier. I am making this boiler the traditional way. if it were a locomotive boiler the back head would not be round so it would not be possible to spin it.
Sir, Find your local kitchen worktop people & get a off cut from a marble worktop-- makes a great marking out table ! Otherwise a glass window ( commercial /shop windows ) supplier & again get a small piece of thick glass ( no breaking shop windows.................. ! )
+stefantrethan I have spun stainless steel end caps in the lathe. They were used for the cylinder ends of Striling engines. It's not difficult. Copper would be easier. I am making this boiler the traditional way. if it were a locomotive boiler the back head would not be round so it would not be possible to spin it.
Hello! Is it possible to use stock brass alloy for making a boiler? Also - is it fine to mix copper and brass for the boiler? For instance, make the tube from sheet copper and add brass machined caps?
"Toy" boilers are often brass but for a proper one you want to use copper. The zinc in brass can escape in use and lead to failure. Bushes should be bronze. The ends need to be domed or stayed.
Nice video, thanks a lot! Two doubts about the process ... have you made the main body too (I think you call "barrel"; excuse me, my native language is portuguese!) ? And, what is the pression inside the boiller? Regards from Brazil!
I wonder if you could have made a simple steel die former and just annealed it then place it in the die and use an arbor press. It’s a good technique though. Thank you for sharing
@@myfordboy understood. I was thinking one could use some pipe and bar stock and match the gap to material thickness. Idk I’ve seen this done with a press and some 3D printer forms using sheet metal. I imagine that would work on cooper too. If I remember correct you have an Ender 3 no?
I had an almost identical boiler I made many years ago. Sadly it was stolen during a break-in. For some reason they didn't take the far more valuable steam engines! Maybe they didn't see them in the display cabinet, in the living room, they only went for my workshop. I no longer have a suitable workshop or equipment to make a replacement.
Hello I. am building your mini boiler the use will be for a model boat. The 2 1/2 inch copper that I will use is type "L" which side wall of 0.062. because I will be taping my connections in brass as well as copper. I will be using a 1/4 - 40 tap and die *yes it does exist I'm looking at it*. I was surprised to find so many different types of sheet copper, these being ASTM B 370 roofing sheet copper, C 101 sheet / plate O2 free copper, C 110 Ho2 sheet / plate half hard copper, C 110 sheet plate 1/8 - 1/4 Hard copper, C 110 sheet / plate, O temper (ETP) which are you using? I will be using copper sheet that matches the wall thickness of the Type "L" copper hard or soft I do not know.What do you recommend? It was also interesting that copper heat conductivity is at 265 where as most brass componets have a heat conductivity of 65 any mixture of copper and not pure copper will lower heat conductivity dramatically. So use copper in ones boiler. The pressure regulator that you made is nice, however there is no way of knowing what the current pressure is in the boiler. As with any air tool the question always comes up "what is the CFM *cubic feet per minute* consumption of steam for the engine. I was looking at a steam turbine but the CFM would be sky high to maintain 60 - 90 psi for the operation of this engine although a steam turbine turning at +20,000 rpm would be awesome it would also have to be geared down to provide the power to the propeller of the boat. Sizes would be nice on your boiler parts, the more info the better. I did like use drill size "D" for the water glass and "O" rings. Providing we know what was the glass size is, we don't know. I would like to know how to "reverse" a steam engine I have heard that it requires a 2 cylinder engine and some sort of by-pass valve. Tubing sizes were not mentioned either I'm hearing 3mm copper. Over all good demo more info please. "G"
C101 is what model engineer supplies sell for boilers. 1/4 by 40 tap is a standard model engineer thread. I prefer to use 32 tpi ME for boilers as there is more depth to the thread but 40 is often used. If you want to know the pressure add a pressure gauge. Bushes should be bronze, never brass or copper.
@@myfordboy What I was getting at is; what is the working pressure of your boiler *more or less* how do you know how much working pressure do you need for a given engine. That is: Working pressure is the amount of steam used, and that pressure maintained in the boiler. I would think there is some sort of equation for this. Adding water to a pressured boiler and maintaining water level would be one of those things one should probably also consider.THANKS for the reply. P.S. C101 copper: hard or soft? My suppler recommended C101 hard sheet copper 1/8- 1/4 inch for the top and bottom of the boiler. I was surprised. The 1/4 - 40 remark was not intended for you, but for your readers. ;) P.S.S. I am using 0.065 flat copper semi hard for the caps on the boiler. I just got my 2 1/2 inch copper boiler copper.
Good evening to you my friend. Can you please tell me what are the white thermal bricks you are using against the copper plate made off. Thanks and Regards
+myfordboy www.online-building-supplies.co.uk/100mm-36n-celconthermalite-thermal-block-45-p.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiA1JuyBRCogJLz4J71kj0SJADsd6QRFpmDOjFP2Ophm1OS42nm3Fk0IGrnaFcau5R7OsffgRoCzsfw_wcB I believe these are the ones.
Actually, I notice you use the lathe eventually on the endcaps. Why not just use the lathe to shape the endcaps in the first place using "metal spinning", that's commonly used to shape concave parts using a lathe, you just push a hard wood up against it while it's spinning with the form.
+nikotwenty There are several ways this can be made, spinning, pressing or bashing. I have spun parts before but chose to show how it can be done this way.
Am I only one who thinks that "annealing" should be allow material cool down very slowly, but you are doing exactly opposite (cooling it really quickly => hardening). Or possibly I'm just missing something, can you please explain? Thanks ;)
I wonder if someone had a CNC, set the cuts for a block of wood to be the shape you wanted, then cut a plug to force the copper into that form. Use a press to drive the plug into the sheet of copper and then into the form. one shot deal.. the muli-annealing seems to indicate the copper would not receive this technique well.
Brother I absolutely love your work ideas quality attention to detail and how you make due with the tools you have at your disposal. But don't back drag the files! Every time I see a file being dragged backwards under pressure it makes me want to cry. GOD bless you brother!
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
So many don't know how to do the hand work anymore, it's nice to see someone who can show how it should be done. I was taught by my father to do so many of the things you show in your videos. I'm glad you can show folks the older, better ways to do stuff.
Thank you for sharing, I wish youtube would go back to a time like this where people shared their passion and knowledge for the sake of it, not to make a quick buck.
This is exactly the kind of thing I wish to do when I retire.. I'd do it now if it paid :(
Great video, thank you :)
What a fantastic video of how to build a very nice vertical model steam engine boiler in a home shop! I always wondered too, just how to add a water sight glass and you showed just how to do that! I am now ready to go and build mine! Keep the great videos coming! Regards, Karl in Michigan, USA
Just a simple THANKYOU for sharing the knowledge and the tips and tricks so that more of us can dabble in areas we may not have the training to do, but still want to give it a go anyway.
I am glad to see I am not the only one to wear "safety shoes" in the shop!
Another fine video and a lovely job. I cnc'd the formers for someone to "spin" the the brass part that goes on top of a traction engine once. They put the former in a lathe and spun the brass sheet around the former. Having said that, it is so nice to see such a skilled pair of hands using relatively basic tools, doing a very fine job indeed.
I can see a grandpa with a very young heart, how lucky to have him around! Consider it even has a safety valve like all hot water thing does!
Pretty neat! Can't wait for the next parts!
Hey johnny, could you do more steam stuff? e.g. engines.
WOW Man! You get +10 points for creativity and hardworkedness. Great Job!
My Uncle Torfin was given a small boiler/steam engine for a birthday in about 1912 some how it came to my Father, his younger brother, in the early 60's it ran fine.
Oh, I love watching you jam the red handle directly into your palm at 13:20. It's machinist BDSM. I always look both ways to make sure my supervisor isn't waking down the aisle first... That's as far as I take safety personally.
I can't tell you how long I've been waiting tor a video to show how to build a simple boiler. I can't wait to see the rest of the video.
+builderofstuff Next time, silver soldering.
Very well made step by step instructive video, and good workmanship. Nothing can go wrong even for a beginner. I have bookmarked the page in my electronic diary and subscribed too. I hope someday in future, when I have some time, I shall make the boiler. Will make frequent visits to your site for more excitement. Thanks.
Mate thank you for your simple and straight forward approach love it
I had half a notion that you were going to make the barrel out of flat sheet and roll and solder it together, but given the availability of copper pipe in so many diameters I totally understand why you didn't. (I do have no doubt that you could have made your own barrel with relative ease after watching all your videos). I guess on a side note that building a pressure vessel you are better off / safer with seamless tubing versus soldering your own barrel as well. Looking forward to future videos in this build and many more!
Hardly simple. Nice work.
Brilliant, so much better getting instructive subtitles with the soundtrack but without the usual pointless waffle. Great vid, great content more please!
it's been a while since I checked in, I see you've been busy!
When you were sanding the cap on the lathe, I thought to myself "no, don't be sanding the sides"!!! one of those jaws on the chuck would leave an owy on yer knuckle !!! (to say the least)
The expansion is incredible during the annealing process
I snarled when you slipped with the file 16:21 and garked that nice smooth copper surface! :)
I'm watching all the "steam series". You make an awesome work. By the way, nice metal handsaw!
thats a nice little boiler. interested to see how you make fittings etc.. following with interest as always!
Nice video! Very instructive and easy to follow. Thanks!
I wish I had a master like you near here, I would go every day just to look and learn
Try not quenching, let the coppers cool down on its own for the molecules to relax and anneal. By cooling it down rapid it does not soften fully
Exact
Copper wont heat temper like that. He is correct in the video stating it will work harden, but heat and rapid quenching wont temper it
the slow cool down is what softens the metal, quenching it actually hardens the metal
This is true for some metals but not copper. it will soften after heating whether you quench or not.
myfordboy oi
This is what I have been waiting for, will be making one of these.
Nice work. Cant wait to see more. Thanks for sharing
He seems like he knows what he's doing, and he's done it before.
I learned 9 things from 1 of your videos.
I like making things, but this would make me nuts!
Brilliant video as usual. Now For all the peeps who insist on using a Dremel tool for everything, you are now going to have to do an instructional video on Hacksaws :o) don't forget to tell them about tooth direction, because our apprentices never seem to even get that bit right..
+Roger Crier
Roger! Well heck! The teeth all point backwards in my hacksaws. Had to look it up. I'm gonna go change them right now. Thanks!
I was asked why the hacksaw has so may teeth and I said why? The answer is, to use them all :))
Super excited to try this I love all things steam
Looks great! What wall thickness are you using for this? It looks to me like about 1/8" or so?
Tube is 18swg, 0.048"
@@myfordboy ok thanks, that's a lot less than my guess. Quite some savings considering the price of copper! I'm planning to make a simple boiler for my Stuart 10V Wich will probably be based off this design
Great video! Your hands look about as old as mine. I'd put you between 55 to 62 years old. Those metal shop
teachers taught us well didn't they? You were listening in class. :-) Your videos are just awesome!
Don't quench the metal if you are trying to anneal it. A quench locks in the crystal structure, hardening it. Heat it, let it cool slow ly. It will be much softer and workable. Annealing is heating to just under critical temp, then gradually easing off the temp to allow the crystals to disalign.
This may apply to steel, but it does not apply to copper. Copper will work harden, but will not quench harden.
+Dave Mitchell +1 on that.
+Dave Mitchell
As Nano said this does not apply to many non ferrous metals . They actually get softer in quench then letting it cool.
+Dave Mitchell Thanks, all. I've only worked with steel hardening processes. Appreciate the feedback. I will look into it further.
Great video as always, thanks.
Witam z Polski szkoda że kolega nie rolował na tokarce rolka z łożyska wychodzi idealnie pozdrawiam miłego dnia
nice little boiler
Nice, instructive video, thanks.
Great instructional video. I’m going to make a similar boiler. It will be my very first boiler attempt. I’m OK with hand tools and basic machining.
I have two questions, if you could help, please.
Where do you buy your copper and other materials?
Will a Mapp gas hand held ‘plumbers type’ gas torch give enough heat for the soldering and annealing operations?
Thanks very much.
I don't think a plumbers map torch would work as it a small area of flame. The copper needs to be red hot for the solder to flow and it takes a lot of heat. Materials can be bought from model engineer suppliers.
Nice work, thank you for the video !
I have made several small engines and spin the caps. Much easier, neater, you don't need to anneal the material and more precise. Even better with Brass. I learned to spin material from a friend many years ago who used tp spin prothetic limbs.
Boiler is looking good, any plans to make a larger multi tube setup. You do nice work, thank you for sharing with us.
+scott isaacs I don't have a use for a larger boiler at the moment.
when hammer tipping on a metal edge as you are doing. try using a soft face hammer, wood, rawhide, compothane. it will help to encourage the metal to shrink. rather than stretch. I believe you would have reached your shape much quicker. then once the shape is really close you can planish with a steel hammer to desired finish.
Many thanks I'm going to build a boiler myself now.
Can you do one more showing the finishing?
Part 2 th-cam.com/video/M9c4civZYvs/w-d-xo.html
Part 3 th-cam.com/video/MIFHILK256Q/w-d-xo.html
Another great video. What size copper tube is the boiler made from?
+DoctorJ3kyll 2.5" inside diameter.
17 year old apprentice mechanic right now, cant wait till i retire so i can do stuff like this ahaha
Thank you, why didn't you roll form it with a bearing on the lathe? Don't get me wrong the old technique of hand forging a boiler plate works and people should always learn this way as not everyone has a lathe but it would seem to have been a lot quicker and neater and a lot less trouble for the hangover. :-= ) A very nice boiler, thanks for the video
I have spun boiler ends before but chose this traditional method here.
it is a nice way to do it and helps teaches people traditional skills that they can use here and on other projects and of course it is important that we do that a otherwise it will be a skill lost to machines. I enjoyed the rest of the series as well thank you,.@@myfordboy
Thanks for sharing, I am busy with my 1st copper boiler for a steam engine and I learnt a lot watching you. What is the thickness of the copper plate on the walls and end caps?
My tube is 0.048" thick and end caps are 0.062.
I can send a sketch of mine is you contact me via myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/contact.html
fantastic video, it is nice to see some one using the former and annealing the ends. It is a slight shame you used the lathe for a finish on the ends, I understand it will be second nature for you but most will not have a mettle lathe and I would have loved to see how you might finish the ends without one. Perhaps a hair smaller former and rolling it on a hard flat surface. Anyhow thank you.
You could use a file but anyone wanting to make a model like this would have a lathe.
Paul, a while back, the saw blades they bought at work had the arrows pointing the wrong way, so what's the average apprentice to do :o)
excelente video , DONDE CONSEGUISTE TUS PINZAS DE presión para el taladro de columna
+luis enrique g I bought them many years ago at a model show.
This is a great project!
Have you ever tried shaping the copper with a roller on the lathe?
+John Creasey I have spun stainless steel end caps in the lathe. They were used for the cylinder ends of Striling engines. It's not difficult. Copper would be easier. I am making this boiler the traditional way. if it were a locomotive boiler the back head would not be round so it would not be possible to spin it.
+myfordboy that's great, thanks for replying.
Sir,
Find your local kitchen worktop people & get a off cut from a marble worktop-- makes a great marking out table ! Otherwise a glass window ( commercial /shop windows ) supplier & again get a small piece of thick glass ( no breaking shop windows.................. ! )
Hi there just wanted to find out if you,ve done any calculations regarding pressure, forces etc?
Super helpful video btw.
No calculations made but it's a popular design and i would say 40psi max test to 80psi.
myfordboy can you send the plans ?
finalyearproject16.4@gmail.com
Did you ever try spinning the endcaps in the lathe?
+stefantrethan I have spun stainless steel end caps in the lathe. They were used for the cylinder ends of Striling engines. It's not difficult. Copper would be easier. I am making this boiler the traditional way. if it were a locomotive boiler the back head would not be round so it would not be possible to spin it.
Hello! Is it possible to use stock brass alloy for making a boiler? Also - is it fine to mix copper and brass for the boiler? For instance, make the tube from sheet copper and add brass machined caps?
"Toy" boilers are often brass but for a proper one you want to use copper. The zinc in brass can escape in use and lead to failure. Bushes should be bronze.
The ends need to be domed or stayed.
Nice video, thanks a lot! Two doubts about the process ... have you made the main body too (I think you call "barrel"; excuse me, my native language is portuguese!) ? And, what is the pression inside the boiller? Regards from Brazil!
The barrel is a copper tube and the working pressure is 50psi
+myfordboy if the body is copper tube, why not just use standard tube end caps?
The tube is not a standard plumbing pipe size. If it was it would work but is unsightly as the cap goes on the outside of the tube.
will copper in a stainless steel tube work for extra thermal conductivity?
Not necessary. If you want more efficiency add some water tubes.Stainless steel is not recommended for model boilers.
@@myfordboy not recommended = dangerous ? or just not efficient?
Boiler inspectors do not like them, maybe because it's more difficult to join.
Since you're annealing the copper, in theory, could I do the final shaping of the disc with a belt or disc sander?
+Sharky's Yes, or a file.
What did you use to bond the tank together, solder or oxy?
es una buena idea para pequeños motores
Very neat. Your boiler
looks similar to the one I made a long time ago.
What you anticipate vapor pressure?
+Lechoslowianin I have the safety vale set for 20psi which is plenty for the little engine shown but it should be fine for double that.
I wonder if you could have made a simple steel die former and just annealed it then place it in the die and use an arbor press. It’s a good technique though. Thank you for sharing
I think that would be more work than the method shown. Easier to make wooden die than a steel one and I don't have a press.
@@myfordboy understood. I was thinking one could use some pipe and bar stock and match the gap to material thickness. Idk I’ve seen this done with a press and some 3D printer forms using sheet metal. I imagine that would work on cooper too. If I remember correct you have an Ender 3 no?
I have made press tools with 3D printed dies for example this one
th-cam.com/video/-3IyodZSA70/w-d-xo.html I sold my Ender and now use Sovol printers.
@@myfordboy well I enjoy your videos I’ve been watching you forever. Thanks for making these
I had an almost identical boiler I made many years ago. Sadly it was stolen during a break-in. For some reason they didn't take the far more valuable steam engines! Maybe they didn't see them in the display cabinet, in the living room, they only went for my workshop. I no longer have a suitable workshop or equipment to make a replacement.
Why not use a former as well a mould with diameter adjusted for thickness of copper to make the flanges?
+sayan das You could do that but it's more work, you have to make the punch and the die.
That copper sheet would cost quite a bit. Great video!
+nikotwenty (16swg) 1.6mm 300x300mm is about £22 as of Nov 2015
Did you make the safety valve, or purchase it?
+MrShobar I made it. Details in a later video.
+myfordboy That answered my question, so looking forward to the "little details" to make it work!
Hello I. am building your mini boiler the use will be for a model boat. The 2 1/2 inch copper that I will use is type "L" which side wall of 0.062. because I will be taping my connections in brass as well as copper. I will be using a 1/4 - 40 tap and die *yes it does exist I'm looking at it*. I was surprised to find so many different types of sheet copper, these being ASTM B 370 roofing sheet copper, C 101 sheet / plate O2 free copper, C 110 Ho2 sheet / plate half hard copper, C 110 sheet plate 1/8 - 1/4 Hard copper, C 110 sheet / plate, O temper (ETP) which are you using? I will be using copper sheet that matches the wall thickness of the Type "L" copper hard or soft I do not know.What do you recommend? It was also interesting that copper heat conductivity is at 265 where as most brass componets have a heat conductivity of 65 any mixture of copper and not pure copper will lower heat conductivity dramatically. So use copper in ones boiler.
The pressure regulator that you made is nice, however there is no way of knowing what the current pressure is in the boiler. As with any air tool the question always comes up "what is the CFM *cubic feet per minute* consumption of steam for the engine. I was looking at a steam turbine but the CFM would be sky high to maintain 60 - 90 psi for the operation of this engine although a steam turbine turning at +20,000 rpm would be awesome it would also have to be geared down to provide the power to the propeller of the boat. Sizes would be nice on your boiler parts, the more info the better. I did like use drill size "D" for the water glass and "O" rings. Providing we know what was the glass size is, we don't know. I would like to know how to "reverse" a steam engine I have heard that it requires a 2 cylinder engine and some sort of by-pass valve. Tubing sizes were not mentioned either I'm hearing 3mm copper. Over all good demo more info please.
"G"
C101 is what model engineer supplies sell for boilers.
1/4 by 40 tap is a standard model engineer thread. I prefer to use 32 tpi ME for boilers as there is more depth to the thread but 40 is often used.
If you want to know the pressure add a pressure gauge.
Bushes should be bronze, never brass or copper.
@@myfordboy What I was getting at is; what is the working pressure of your boiler *more or less* how do you know how much working pressure do you need for a given engine. That is: Working pressure is the amount of steam used, and that pressure maintained in the boiler. I would think there is some sort of equation for this. Adding water to a pressured boiler and maintaining water level would be one of those things one should probably also consider.THANKS for the reply.
P.S. C101 copper: hard or soft? My suppler recommended C101 hard sheet copper 1/8- 1/4 inch for the top and bottom of the boiler. I was surprised. The 1/4 - 40 remark was not intended for you, but for your readers. ;) P.S.S. I am using 0.065 flat copper semi hard for the caps on the boiler. I just got my 2 1/2 inch copper boiler copper.
Couldn’t you use copper pipe caps if they were the correct size? And just slip them over the ends?
Would work but not give a scale appearance.
myfordboy Thank you for the fast response! I’m not too concerned with certain visual aspects of it, so that wouldn’t bother me too much.
What diameter copper tube do you use and what thickness is the tube and plate?
Nice work, are there any drawings/materials lists available?
+nick Clarke I did not make full plans but i can send you a sketch. You will find my email address at myfordboy.blogspot.com
what is the thickness of copper sheet,. and Thanks for sharing
+1358sob 1.5mm
Could you use a male and female wooden form to press the copper into shape in one go without having to anneal it?
+M Kerna You would still need to anneal it.
How long did this boiler take you from start to finish?
I don't keep a check on the hours. it's a hobby, it does not matter how long it takes.
When a boy I used my parents pressure cooker as a boiler then I used a 4200 boiler with the locomotive underneath it railroad style
Seems like a great opportunity to try some metal spinning in your lathe.
I built this boiler but am having trouble with water flooding my engine, I've tried with less water to start and still flooding, any tips?
Make sure the boiler is producing steam before trying the engine. You could also run the steam pipe into the firebox before it gets to the engine.
Is it possible to use that design to seperate hydrigen gas from water?
No it's just a boiler.
Good evening to you my friend. Can you please tell me what are the white thermal bricks you are using against the copper plate made off. Thanks and Regards
+CHRISTOS TSANDAS The bricks are part of a commercial brazing hearth. i am not sure exactly what the are made of. They are quite light.
+myfordboy www.online-building-supplies.co.uk/100mm-36n-celconthermalite-thermal-block-45-p.asp?gclid=CjwKEAiA1JuyBRCogJLz4J71kj0SJADsd6QRFpmDOjFP2Ophm1OS42nm3Fk0IGrnaFcau5R7OsffgRoCzsfw_wcB I believe these are the ones.
+Arjan Wilbie Those blocks can be used but they break up fairly quickly. The ones in my hearth are harder than building blocks.
+CHRISTOS TSANDAS you want Refractory / fire brick
+myfordboy THANK YOU ALL
Parabéns amigo, bom trabalho.
things were simple, till we got to a ten foot flame thrower ^^ lol
Actually, I notice you use the lathe eventually on the endcaps. Why not just use the lathe to shape the endcaps in the first place using "metal spinning", that's commonly used to shape concave parts using a lathe, you just push a hard wood up against it while it's spinning with the form.
+nikotwenty There are several ways this can be made, spinning, pressing or bashing.
I have spun parts before but chose to show how it can be done this way.
How thick are the copper plates?
1.5mm
What are the dimensions of the boiler, or is there a set of plans available please?
Think it would be faster to create a DIE and press for this..Great work
No 1 bro
Makes a change, to see someone using a pair of dividers properly.
Am I only one who thinks that "annealing" should be allow material cool down very slowly, but you are doing exactly opposite (cooling it really quickly => hardening).
Or possibly I'm just missing something, can you please explain? Thanks ;)
+Dalibor Skrobak You are correct with steel, copper doesn't care. It will anneal just by heating.
+justfakeit888 nice I did not know that thanks a lot :-)
From all of this, wasn't it easier just to get a holed cora can?
the aluminum isn't strong enough
in which way?
Hi, what size copper tube did you use for the boiler please
Send me an email and I can send free plan. myfordboy at gmail.com
I wonder if someone had a CNC, set the cuts for a block of wood to be the shape you wanted, then cut a plug to force the copper into that form. Use a press to drive the plug into the sheet of copper and then into the form. one shot deal.. the muli-annealing seems to indicate the copper would not receive this technique well.
+Paul Gdry Look up "Metal Spinning" videos on youtube. It's a process that is basically as old as metal lathe work.
What is the determinant factor of the output pressure? can I say its the heating element wattage?
+Cosmo John More heat = more pressure.
myfordboy
Thanks so much for enlightening, expert! Looking forward to more of your videos. I wish you well.
Oh yeah, one question. What gauge copper do you use for the boiler?
0.048" tube. I have a free plan for this boiler.
So many experts thinking you can harden copper here
could useing tin snips work as well
Brother I absolutely love your work ideas quality attention to detail and how you make due with the tools you have at your disposal. But don't back drag the files! Every time I see a file being dragged backwards under pressure it makes me want to cry. GOD bless you brother!