25 year Outdoor Education veteran and High Ropes instructor and trainer, and newly recruited State Emergency Service Rescue operator here. Fantastic video, embarrassingly learnt a whole lot of info I didn’t know! Looking forward to future episodes. 👍
Thanks Richard! This is reference material right there!! I recommend a few things: 1- put the complete link to the physics pdf in your description so the link works. 2- Put a link to your ropelab website in the description so people can access its content. 3- Shamelessly advertise your membership service and in-person service at the end of your videos for people who want more content!! I am a proud member for a second year 🙂
Other people probably wouldn't get that, but I really enjoyed watching you talking half an hour about carabiners. You have a calm and simple style of explaining which makes it really easy to follow your thoughts. I am really looking forward to those upcoming episodes.
Brilliant. I am a huge fan of Austri Alpine 50/50's specifically for autolocking belay device biner for climbing, as is my partner and a few friends. Very convenient.
Thank you Richard ! For all of your work ! I'm a rope access technician from Portugal , and your videos have given me a lot o knowledge and answer a lot of questions and doubts . Hope to see more of this content. Love the inspection points , we should be able to compare a new or a guaranteed perfect equipment with the one we are inspecting The fatigue was another nice topic ! Waiting for nest videos ! 🙏
Not a "climber", I am a retired Rigger. MY interest is in camping with hammocks. There is a continuing argument regarding the closure of lifting shackles -- Tighten then back it off -or- just tighten it. I have seen (and argued about) distorted shackles that progressively stretch until thread engagement on the pin is not 100%. The other side says it is too difficult to remove a threaded pin after a 'hard' lift. I carried a boating type folding marlin spike to increase my leverage on the tight pin. Numerous other tools work as well. I maintain that leaving a gap, not designed for by the manufacturer, gives an opportunity for unplanned flexing to gradually and permanently distort -- whatever gear -- you are using. Think of it as a Knot -- not well dressed! Bad Plan!
Good to know about the 25% max loading. I use my climbing gear(As a hobbiest/'home gamer') for lifting too, mixed with a lot of actual lifting gear(With SWL numbers) too so it's good to know how they interconnect ratings wise. I've tried to stick to around 4x safety factor and its good to know it's backed up by at least some of the documentation.
Dearest Wife, Richard says I must buy a boat load of reference carabiners, definitely not because I have an addiction to buying shiny bits of gear... 😜 Have you tried the edelrid strike safelock? I got a few that were on sale at £3.75!! and IMO they are one of the best locking carabiners, the anti-crossloading gate is the gate spring and they cannot be opened accidentally with the method you show. Sobering those triple action ones can be opened so easily...
Richard when talking about D shaped and Oval (or pair) shaped carabiners, I was waiting and curious what you would say about the practice of having two opposite and opposed on the focal (master) point. As you mentioned it makes no difference on a pair if two are opposite and opposed, but it can put some rather funky forces on the gate of a D. Your thoughts?
I talk about this in the notes linked in the description. www.ropelab.com.au/files/physics.pdf#page32 I see no point in opposing the gates on locking carabiners.
Richard, why don’t the Norms require tri-axial tension? Or bending (quite an often forgotten problem when clipping to rigid anchors and other pieces are clipped there)?
It is too problematic to design a test machine that will apply the same three-axis loading to every possible carabiner shape. Just keep the internal sling angle between the two legs and you will be fine.
25 year Outdoor Education veteran and High Ropes instructor and trainer, and newly recruited State Emergency Service Rescue operator here. Fantastic video, embarrassingly learnt a whole lot of info I didn’t know! Looking forward to future episodes. 👍
Thanks Richard! This is reference material right there!! I recommend a few things: 1- put the complete link to the physics pdf in your description so the link works. 2- Put a link to your ropelab website in the description so people can access its content. 3- Shamelessly advertise your membership service and in-person service at the end of your videos for people who want more content!! I am a proud member for a second year 🙂
Other people probably wouldn't get that, but I really enjoyed watching you talking half an hour about carabiners. You have a calm and simple style of explaining which makes it really easy to follow your thoughts. I am really looking forward to those upcoming episodes.
Brilliant. I am a huge fan of Austri Alpine 50/50's specifically for autolocking belay device biner for climbing, as is my partner and a few friends. Very convenient.
Amazing video - utmost relevant for people who climb to know these things. Thank you
Priceless. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you Richard !
For all of your work !
I'm a rope access technician from Portugal , and your videos have given me a lot o knowledge and answer a lot of questions and doubts .
Hope to see more of this content.
Love the inspection points , we should be able to compare a new or a guaranteed perfect equipment with the one we are inspecting
The fatigue was another nice topic !
Waiting for nest videos ! 🙏
Not a "climber", I am a retired Rigger. MY interest is in camping with hammocks.
There is a continuing argument regarding the closure of lifting shackles -- Tighten then back it off -or- just tighten it.
I have seen (and argued about) distorted shackles that progressively stretch until thread engagement on the pin is not 100%.
The other side says it is too difficult to remove a threaded pin after a 'hard' lift.
I carried a boating type folding marlin spike to increase my leverage on the tight pin. Numerous other tools work as well.
I maintain that leaving a gap, not designed for by the manufacturer, gives an opportunity for unplanned flexing to gradually and permanently distort -- whatever gear -- you are using.
Think of it as a Knot -- not well dressed!
Bad Plan!
You should try Grivel carabiners.
I have a few of their double gate ones too. So many to choose from these days.
@@RopeLab I love them.
Excellent video! Congratulations! Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge!
Excellent. Fascinating. Thank you sir for this in-depth expose of our equipment. I learned a great many things here. Jim H, Portland, Oregon.
Thanks for the info!
Great video! Look forward for the next ones
Good to know about the 25% max loading. I use my climbing gear(As a hobbiest/'home gamer') for lifting too, mixed with a lot of actual lifting gear(With SWL numbers) too so it's good to know how they interconnect ratings wise. I've tried to stick to around 4x safety factor and its good to know it's backed up by at least some of the documentation.
WELL DONE BROTHER
I want to say that hownot2 demo'd a quad locker being manipulated open on a rope...
Anyway, nice video, Rich!
Awesome content!
Dearest Wife, Richard says I must buy a boat load of reference carabiners, definitely not because I have an addiction to buying shiny bits of gear... 😜
Have you tried the edelrid strike safelock? I got a few that were on sale at £3.75!! and IMO they are one of the best locking carabiners, the anti-crossloading gate is the gate spring and they cannot be opened accidentally with the method you show. Sobering those triple action ones can be opened so easily...
Richard when talking about D shaped and Oval (or pair) shaped carabiners, I was waiting and curious what you would say about the practice of having two opposite and opposed on the focal (master) point. As you mentioned it makes no difference on a pair if two are opposite and opposed, but it can put some rather funky forces on the gate of a D. Your thoughts?
I talk about this in the notes linked in the description.
www.ropelab.com.au/files/physics.pdf#page32
I see no point in opposing the gates on locking carabiners.
Thanks, and same.
Richard, why don’t the Norms require tri-axial tension? Or bending (quite an often forgotten problem when clipping to rigid anchors and other pieces are clipped there)?
It is too problematic to design a test machine that will apply the same three-axis loading to every possible carabiner shape. Just keep the internal sling angle between the two legs and you will be fine.
@@RopeLab 🙌🏽
IAS represented 😉👏🏼👏🏼
Absolutely great video! So much gold in here.
Can’t wait for episode 2😃
I certainly picked up a couple of things there cheers 👍🏻
Incredible thank you Richard!