PHOTOS OUT OF FOCUS? HERE'S WHY
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My name is Simon d'Entremont and I'm a professional wildlife and nature photographer from Eastern Canada.
Are your photos blurry or out of focus? In this video, I'll show you what the most common focus problems are for photographers, and how to solve them!
My equipment:
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FLM Tripod (CP 34 L4 II) and Levelling Head (HB 75) www.flmcanada.com?aff=sdentrem
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There are scammers pretending to be me and offering prizes via telegram. Stay away and report them! Thanks!
So I've noticed.
they did it to me too!
pay attention to how the name is spelled! the S is written in lowercase unlike the original!!
It's quite simple: Telegram = Scam. It literally is not used for anything else lol.
Thank you for the tip Simon!
Great explanation on improving focus. You’re a natural educator of photography and make it simple to understand.
This is the best video on Focus I have watched. Thank you Simon
its sometimes fun to not use auto focus whatsoever. tricky but once you get the hang of it its a blast
I found that f/stop/aperture is easier to understand for beginners if the f number is viewed as a fraction like shutter speed; for example F4 equates to 1/4,. f16 = 1/16 etc. It shows a correlation to lens opening and the amount of light transmitted through the lens. Also explains those depth of field marks on mostly old school lenses. I guess I am giving away my age and my Nikkormat.
Always informative. Thank you for continuing to share your tips to make me a better photographer
Thank you so much for sharing all your awesome experience, knowledge and insight!
Simon
Thank you for such helpful information !
I love how you get to the point and I always find something to learn. Thank you for taking the time to share
Amazing video as always, so helpful. Thank you for making and sharing this.
Great stuff Simon! Do you keep the focus type default or priorities on phase or contrast. From what I've read: phase is faster but contrast is more accurate.. ??
Mine has both
I don't have problems with single subjects. The problems are with landscapes and far mountains, far forest, etc. With the infinity the lens are not so precise. My canon 7D mk ii is perfect with birds, animals, people... but in landscapes the autofocusing is not the best choice.
Not sure I heard right, but just wanted to confirm. Most mirrorless cameras have some form of phase detect autofocus - example, Canon Dual Pixel Autofocus. The big complaint about Panasonic mirrorless autofocus was that it used contrast detect and was one of the last brands to do so. I think all major mirrorless brands now use phase detect. Most DSLR's, at least the newer ones, use phase detect for a portion of the field of view when the mirror is down, but use contrast detect in live view when the mirror is up. Each works well in specific situations, as you outline. Phase detect I believe is more responsive for moving subjects. Again, not really meaningful for figuring out how to nail focus each time, but just wanted to drop that in.
Olympus and Panasonic have almost exclusively used Contrast Detect, with Olympus moving to PDAF on some of the newest cameras and Panasonic using a refinement of Contrast they call DFD. Older Sonys were contrast only. Canon uses Dual-Pixel AF on MILC, which is a different technology with pros and cons vs on-sensor PDAF. Nikon, Fuji and Sony have PDAF and Contrast detect hybrid on all their current MILC cameras, the Nikon 1 series being the first to do so.
DSLRs essentially all use PDAF with mirror down, mirror up can be whatever the sensor has, like the Nikon D780 having on-sensor PDAF for hybrid, most Canon using Dual-Pixel, but most others using contract only. DSLR PDAF still has the advantage of larger light gathering sites that keep their faster speed down to their light limit don't affect image quality for focus, but MILC has the advantage of being able to switch over to contrast detect in low light, while losing some light gathering ability due to the split pixels.
Great tips again. Thx.
Hey Simon! Love your vids! Do you have this focusing video with the Canon 2X extender? I shot his morning and the manual focus was challenging. I did capture some good shots but some of the best ones were too blurry - THX
I don’t but I do have a video on using teleconverters that maybe you should check out b
I aspire to be an amateur nature and wildlife photographer in eastern Canada :-)
Haha Rowland! You can!
Here's a question for any experts: How can I maximize the effectiveness of autofocus in a contrast system (I shoot on Fuji X-T3 and 4) when I have to shoot wildlife (in my case, whales) on a low-contrast day (clouded over, mid-day, more 'glary' than dark, if you know what I mean, some haziness, a colorless day). I'm going to stop there and not bog my question down with mechanical facts, in case there is just some obvious idea I have not learned yet. Oh, just one: the camera took the photographs even though it was set not to fire unless focus was achieved. [Edit a couple hours later:] I stumbled upon something that seems peculiar to the Fuji cameras (before the newer models, anyway). I made an incorrect choice by choosing AF-C instead of AF-S in these conditions. That is, it was a darkish day and I wanted a narrow aperture to get some forgiveness in depth of field. I had been wondering if my narrow aperture (pretty severe: f/16 on the 100-400 - just a sign of my lack of experience and confidence) could cause problems for AF because of absence of light. From what I have read, AF-C will keep my chosen aperture and thus deliver less light to the AF function, whereas if I had shot on those days with AF-S the camera would open the aperture to get focus, then stop down to f/16 as directed by myself in that case. Well, this is what I read today. But I am so new to this, so if anyone knows differently please share. Also, I realize this phenomenon might be peculiar to what are now out-of-date Fuji cameras.
No, the Af-C and Af-S choice doesn’t affect your aperture, just your focus. Af-c is good for whales and any moving subjects. But f/16 os much smaller than you needed. f/8 for lots of depth of field would be fine, and your iso will be lower and image quality better.
How do u pre focus near where the action is gonna be, when i try it focuses on background or blurry so how do u know the depth of focus on prefocus when only thing is bsckground to pre focus whichbis further then subject or ground which is either closer or further?
Looks for a stick, tree, clump of grass near where action may hapoen and focus on that.
hey simon! a friend and i recently started getting into photography quite seriously as of late and i just wanted to mention that your videos are absolute lifesavers and contain a bunch of incredibly useful information, all told in a super enjoyable and understandable format. i seriously can’t thank you enough for sharing your secrets and practices with us, it’s just absolutely amazing how much you can teach us in a few short minutes. ever since we started watching you, the quality of our pictures have skyrocketed and people have started recognizing us as “proper” photographers because of it. truth be told we’re just two 17 year olds trying to make the most of our hobbies but your videos and passion towards photography have led us to believe this very well might be something we want to do full-time in the future. we would like to join those many people and express how grateful we are for your work and will to help us out beginners. seriously, thank you so much!!!
Excellent! I need to train up my replacements! I’ll want to kick up and relax some day!
@@simon_dentremont you’re taking care of that excellently! we hope to make you proud :)
@@simon_dentremont pretty much same here for me!!! Learning. And your videos have been the most helpful. THANK YOU SO MUCH! ❤️❤️❤️
I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont absolutely! it would be an honour :)
I’m an intermediate-beginner, keeping same status for the last 4 years; throughly discouraged about my lack of progress. Last 3 days I’ve watched 20 videos x 3 of your presentations. I thought you spoke too fast and didn’t give me enough time to write down important points, upset, and so I put down my pen and reclined. Interestingly, I grew in you after first set of 20; soon hooked as your contents so very different from others. I went back and watch all 20 again and again once more, total of 60. By listening to you I grew badly needed excitement, renewed motivation and inspiration. Thank you!!
Awesome!
Dont underestimate the power of D'Entremont haha
I can understand your frustration with how fast he talks but for me I love it because there is so much info in a short video and i can just rewind it over and over till i understand. I love these videos!
TH-cam has a settings button (shaped like a cog)
Therein you can change the playback speed to slow down the video, giving you time to take notes.
Lol: you think he talks fast and I play Simon at 1.25x 😅
We’re all different 😉
Glad you found your mojo dude!
What makes your videos great is they are all concise and right down to the point. Thank you
Plus, Simon is the contrary of a gatekeeper. Photography can be a daunting hobby for us newbies and having someone share his knowledge and experience in a way that encourages new people to improve is a very wholesome thing
Simon is very generous to transfer his knowledge as well.
@@TheDonCucaracho So well said-the encouragement goes a long way when learning anything and as a teacher, I strive to be that every day as the teachers I respond to best are just that. The smug gatekeepers are the absolute worst.
One thing I appreciate about Simon is that he never looks down on crop sensors and always takes it into account when giving tips.
Each sensor has their uses. I don't get the hate that people give it.
Simon, everytime I'm having a specific issue your videos are reccomended to me and they have ALWAYS come out that day. It's like you're reading my mind
Maybe it’s TH-cam thats reading it! haha thanks.
The algorithm is listening..... 😁
hahahaha
Me too!!
What genre of photography does everyone shoot? I’d like to know so I can keep my content and examples relevant!
Anything that catches my attention that day but lately i have tried to challenge myself to try new subjects
I'd be interested in seeing something on macro photography. I used to do a fair bit, but just getting back into it now. Thanks!
Mostly wildlife and nature, but also abstracts/structures, cities and sometimes people (not much wildlife around here, but lots of old cities and villages).
99% wildlife. I love your content on taking pictures but would like to see more on Workflows and editing.
Candid street photography and wildlife here
Bless you, this is giving me hope, I'm glad you shared your expertise thank you.
Excellent video…. Thank you!
Simon, I think I'm just beginning to appreciate just how much effort you must be putting into your videos. They are always so clear, concise and very well thought out. I feel I've always gained a much clearer understanding of the subjects you cover. I am forever greatful. 🙏
Glad you like them!
Before watching the video: "I already pretty much know this stuff"
After watching the video: "Nope. Clearly, I was an idiot"
Thank you so much for your amazing instructions and tips.
You Sir, are absolutely fantastic teacher!! My regards to you!!
Many thanks!
I’m currently starting off my adventure by attempting to learning Macro photography. I started playing around with my iPhone 14 pro max in my back yard and was surprised when I randomly took a picture of a mantis up close. Something about seeing things clear and extremely close is just cool to me. So a couple weeks later here I am learning to use my canon t7 I got for a simple trade.
Hi Simon, great video. With Canon, do you use "spot" or "1 point" AF?
Both work pretty similarly
Brilliant video. Thank you !!
Hello Simon your channel is a real gold mine I just discovered it today and I think your videos are amazing first of all I want to congratulate you for the number of subscribers you managed to collect and also for the quality of your videos I went on your site and I read your autobiography but if you don't mind I would like to know a little more about you. Did you go to a photography school, when did you start photographing, what is your background, how old are you if you don't mind of course. Otherwise I wish you a very good continuation a long and beautiful life and I wish you to continue to live of your passion it makes me enormously pleasure to see people bloomed and happy like you.
Sincerely
B. Zackaria
Maybe some day! In short, no school.
Another great educational tip Simon. Thanks so much. Judy
Great advice, thank you. Phil AKA Keepclickingphotography
Cracking video, Simon. Your presentation is brilliant. Have subscribed. 👍
Hasselblad 500cm , Nikon f4 and considering buying a digital camera for low light photography. I am in my 70’s
One low light trick I use is: If the subject is fairly stable, I crank my shutter speed to a very long exposure which in turn gives the camera enough light to focus. i then bring shutter speed back to where I want it then take the pictures. I am using back button focusing so this means my focus will not change when taking the pics.
I do same for milky way exposures to take test shots.
I don't get that at all. What the camera sees to focus is not dependent on shutter speed is it? The camera focuses at full open aperture in the given light, and the chosen aperture and shutter only come in at exposure. Perhaps you are talking about live view?
@@johnsmith1474 The camera does not focus at full open apperature. It can only use the light allowed in by the app/shutterspeed. It is easy to test. Set app to f22 in moderately dark setting and you have 0 chance of focus, Open wide open and you will be able to focus. Same idea with shutter speed. Super slow lets in a bunch of light and you will be able to focus
@@dennisharris144 Incorrect with Canon cameras taking photographs.
@@ianrazey8412 So you are saying if I have AP set at 22 and focus the camera open AP to full AP, focuses, then closes it back down within one shutter click? sorry but try my suggestion above then reply
Video Request: Photography Prints 101 + editing thoughts?
Manufacturers like to convince us how MILC cameras are far better at AF ... well here at 6:00 we finally hear the truth, that they suck at certain scenes.
Pre-focusing is ONLY way to take shot of moving target with lens that have screw driven AF, such as Tamron 70-200. The lens itself can't track because it is too slow to find focus soon enough and constantly just hunt and adjust. Prefocusing make shot possible. Even very fast racing car directly toward camera.
Great Videos that provide a wealth of information !!!! Thank you !
Yes, mirrorless cameras, are more accurate zooming out. And get stuck on the background.
ALWAYS point a long zoom at the ground, and half press. Do it out of habit.
1. to wake it up from sleep mode.
2. so that the focus racks outwards to catch a bird.
Thanks for the vid fellow Canuck, very helpful!
Good video Simon. Well illustrated with photos from the real world.
I follow your channel.
I have been enjoying all of your tips and I have made great improvements. Thanks
What can you to get one person lock focus when is a wedding situation? Specifically when dancing and people can be crossing in front of the camera
this video will explain it. th-cam.com/video/HCsiE6jrG5A/w-d-xo.html
What about lens calibration? I’m shooting studio on a tripod with shutter cable and I have to manually push the focus back to get the right focus. Some lenses need calibration if they are front focussing or back focussing
Good info as usual.
Airshows are my favourite to take a camera to so suggestions would help
Cheers
Peter
Thx for another helpful video. Good explanations, good examples and the most important to me as a German. Nice pronunciation 😉
Sir did you just read my mind lately this have been an new issue for me
I was thinking the same exact thing. I figured out my problem but wanted to see what he said.
Great!
@@chrisbrice9686 i figured it out looking at the video so will try it out
Sir, can you please make a video on night photography. Thank you!
Loved the video! Maybe in an upcoming video you could cover manual focus.
I prefer to manually focus. Im a 45-year pro and learned to focus fast enough with greater accuracy
I like your videos with the succinct narrative.
Simon, it would be good to get your insight and approach to shooting fireworks
Thank you for your tips - you took beautiful pics - I am a beginner
Simon! You are my dad!
Let's not forget that your eyes need to be in focus for your camera to be in focus. Wear proper eye correction for distance & near especially if you're over 40yrs old and using your screen as you focus. Although limited in range, also set your viewfinder's dioptric adjustment.
Probably overlooked by some photographers. Great tip! Cheers.
At last! Somebody with practical tips and no bla bla about which camera is better
Another interesting and informative vid, thank you 🙂
Merci et bonne continuation
amazing educational video, Thank you Simon
Wildlife/bird and street photography
Most Likely the Best Camera Content on the Internet / So Comprehensive Wonderfully Refreshing.
Appreciate that
In an eagle diving situation, may be eagle catching a fish from the water and, the Eagle coming from back to front, at this situation how can I pre focus on anything? Nothing is there to pre focus on, except for the water.
Most cameras can find a wave sticking up.
Simon, you need to be a Texan so you could talk slower.
Simon, I am a rookie in photography. I saw this video and a question comes to my mind. What is considered “in focus “ You photos looks amazingly sharp. But mist of mine too. But the story changes when I zoom the photo 150%,200%, etc. what is ok or acceptable and how much is too much. In 100% my photo looks great or ok. Is that good enough? Do I have to look for new techniques like the ones you mentioned? Thanks in advance for your answer. W think first you must define what “in focus” is, then you present mitigations ir strategies to avoid out of focus.
looking good at 100pct is more than enough. Unless you’re printing large for a gallery showing, no one will ever look into that much detail of your photo.
Can YOU PLEASE MAKE A COURSE with homework assignments, challenges and projects PLEEEAAASSSEEEEEEE!!! I can only imagine the platinum knowledge since your YT chanel is just plain AMAZING.
on my « to do »!
Mostly nature photos, birds, flowers, leaves, butterflies.....
I have a Pentax K70 you rarely talk about it 🤔
But, I can't make my portraits sharp!
NikonD5300 + 18-55mm Kit lense.
Check out my sharpness video.
As always, such a detailed, well-produced, and insightful video. Thank you very much sir!
Very nice photography and some great tips!
Do you recommend using Servo AND Multiple focus points together for moving objects?
Yup.
Your video quality is great. The focus is on you, while your background is blurred. Is this the same technique applied while recording? Asking cuz I’m interested in recording YT videos
This is achieved using a fast lens, ie large maximum aperture of f1.4.
Thank you!
Thanks Simon. Another issue is getting your subject in focus when the subject isn't anywhere near the center or under a focus point. I use single mode, move on to said subject, focus, then reframe the shot. The thing I want in focus is, even though it's off in a corner or such.
Simon, your videos are pure gold. Just good solid tips to help improve your photography. Thank you.
Dennis, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Yes. You are welcome to use my comment
Thank you for your very interesting and easy understanding video. Do you have experiences with focus shift problem closing aperture ? I have with my tamron . If so what do you suggest?
For videography it might be an issue, but for photos it hasn’t been an issue
Hi Simon, I enjoyed this show very much. I've learned a couple tricks today, thank you for sharing! I stop by weekly and I always get a lesson! Regards, Joel
Tulalip, WA
Glad it was helpful!
some good points, things I didn't try before
My Fuji X-T4 with the Fuji 100-400mm lens are terrible for getting focus, it focuses all round the subject but not the subject, its so frustrating. I pretty much hate this lens.
Oh dear.
Love your photos. Damn it! I wish I came across your site in 2021 when I spent every single day shooting. I definitely lost some good shots. I'll be watching everything you've put out. Subscribed!
Thanks! I’ve only been doing this 10 months, so wouldn’t have been around then!
Simon, I shoot the Lumix G9 with the 2.4 and later firmware upgrades and have found, with a little bit of direct sunlight, it focuses better than its TH-cam reputation would suggest, even for birds. I use the center square focusing mode overlaid with the camera's animal detect feature. I shoot with the Leica Lumix 100-400mm lens and was wondering if I bought a OM-1 system camera as a second body do you think its ability to focus would be superior? Dramatically so? Lumix seems to really be pushing the limits of contrast focusing and I was wondering why when so many opinions favor phase-detect autofocus. Simplicity?
Contrast-based seems to be improving all the time. I don’t know about the G9, but the OM-1 has a solid reputation.
Thank you 😊🙏 sir helpful video 📸💯❤️🔥
very educational. Simon, at min 4:20 you mentioned the technique of lighting the tree in FG to photograph the milky way afterwards... may I ask what aperture you used in that shot pls? did you use wide opening aperture or not?
I shoot the milky way sky wide open (f1.4 or f1.6) because I need to shoot a short exposure to stop its movement. But for the land/tree I stop down to f2.8 or f4 and shoot 5 minutes if I need to as nothing is moving. I do that to get more depth of field, like to get the grass in focus too. Then I blend the two halves in Photoshop.
Please consider Pentax users as well...
It’s hard to include them all, but I’ll see what I can do.
super beneficial. Simon you are great. I wish to watch your videos comparing mirror and mirrorless cameras soon. Thanks
Just out this morning!
Oh man, trying to take photos of deer on my m4/3 that end up focusing on the background or otherwise leaving blurry deer... this video speaks to me.
Hello Simon, what focus points did you use for your Eagle in flight. I was initially taught to use eye tracking. Are you using a larger focal point? Thank you in advance.
It depends. I often use eye detect now, and works great. when I used a DSLR, I would usually use the center 9 points for birds in flight.
Hello Simon, I appreciate the way you are able to explain how cameras work. I have an Olympus camera and lens. Would you do a podcast for mirrowless cameras? I have listened to you speak about how settings should be configurated and you have included mirrorless ameras. I have given one of my daughters a mirrorless camera and I feel the Olympus is somewhat hard to explain. Really enjoy your podcasts. T. Boutilier
Thanks, but I don’t know the Olympus system very well unfortunately.
Simon, thanks for sharing this video. Could you please explain to me how to “ pre-focus” on an area .
Just point at an object near where you want and hit the focus button.
Great video. When using the Sony RX10 shooting video, it has difficulty keeping focus when the subject is wearing eyeglasses. Most instances, the camera was mounted on a tripod. The subjects were speaking facing the camera and distances ranged from three feet to twenty. I don’t have any info as to the settings. Thanks.
Interesting. I think the newer ones can handle glasses pretty well.
How do you get your submitted TH-cam videos to stay focused when published? My daughter, Kyla Groh, does TH-cam videos and the original videos are clear but when TH-cam publishes them they are not clear.
Lol you are viewing in 480p try to watch in 4k
My focus issues are because I'm using a cheap zoom lens from 1992 that can't focus to save its miserable life.
oh dear!
I shoot the moon (focal 35mm), but diagonal rays from the light appear in the photo. To avoid them, do I need some kind of filter or can you remove them with the camera settings?
Those are lens flares and can tough to control with settings. If you own a neutral density filter, it may cut them down (but not guaranteed). More expensive lenses have coating and designs to reduce them.
I went to the park to take photos of some geese, using the eos r on servo mode and face detection focus I took shots. I struggled to get the focus on the eyes sometimes and realized it was going to their bodies half the time. Am I doing something wrong? Used the 70-200mm 2.8 ef lens.
The R was Canon’s earlier entires into eye detect and not always great. The latest models are much better
Brought my dslr after quite a few years have to learn all over again your videos are so helpful getting me back into it and your from the east coast I’m from Cape Breton
Great to hear neighbor!
hi Simon, maybe it's too simple a question. how do you focus on the edge of the subject? how does the camera know you want to focus on the edge of the subject in autofocus mode? As far as I know, you have to use a joystick to focus on a particular part of the scene. thank you.
You should have a focus point visible in the viewfinder. Either point it at the edge, or like you say, move the point there.
Tried your tip about Auto ISO today, spot on everything pin Sharp
Great to hear!
Educative video,
Is it possible to track 2 subjects on a canon 80d?
How to get everything in focus using AF
I’m nit sure you can track 2, but if your depth of field is wide enough you can still get both in focus.
@@simon_dentremont alright, thanks for your quick response
Great video as always, I didn’t see the video link to setting a back button to auto select a high speed for sudden moving targets. Can you please post in your introduction below the video?
In the description