Thermal Proof RoofingFoil™ is the Best Radiant Barrier Underlayment For Metal And Tile Roofing.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2019
- In this video Ed uses thermal imaging to show you just how much heat RoofingFoil™ reflects off a standard OSB roof deck. In his final results you can see for yourself how much cooler a deck with RoofingFoil™ can be.
You may have been told that a traditional underlayment is all you need under your roof but this video proves that adding a radiant barrier under a roof (as long as you have that air gap!) will not only seal your roof, but it will also stop the heat from ever entering your roof deck or your home below. If you're replacing your roof or building new construction, you've got to have this foil insulation product on your roof!
To learn more about the new underlayment, watch this video: • Energy Saving Roofing ...
Buy RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment: bit.ly/2XOfyt6
How to Install RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment in a metal or tile roof: roofingfoil.com/how-to-install/
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Now that we've shown how effective RoofingFoil™ is at reflecting radiant heat away from the home, learn How to Install RoofingFoil™ + Underlayment in a metal or tile roof here: roofingfoil.com/how-to-install/
Would this work on under the roof of a metal garage? The roof is corigated a bit like your photo example. Is that enough air gap
@@chrisj6321 Absolutely it will work! A corrugated roof has a good airspace. You may have a LITTLE loss in efficiency due to bottom edges touching the foil, but you will still be over 90% effective. Please send me some pics for this installation. Ed Also, check out our products at www.BlueTexInsulation.com specifically for metal buildings. Or the original radiant barrier products at www.AtticFoil.com
is it aluminium foil?
There is a layer of aluminum foil. There are 4 other layers: PE Woven fabric, Non-woven PP Fabric and PE Lamination layers. www.RoofingFoil.com
I have to say it’s very surprising to see a salesman be honest. Hopefully your honesty will be greatly rewarded. I am building a small house for the mother in law and will definitely be buying your product. I had a friend building a house and will definitely show him. Thank you for your explanation and honesty!
Thanks, we try to give good and accurate info. Any questions please contact us. www.RoofingFoil.com
OK this is the video I wanted to see, that the foil works!
Great demonstration. Thanks.
Great stuff ... and this is the definitive video ... I looked at a few other videos and they often just added to confusion ... your demo is simple and undisputable ... great work ...
Thanks, www.RoofingFoil.com works great to keep heat out of your building.
Excellent presentation of heat transfer concepts. Much appreciated.
Another good video. Thanks Ed.
YESSS! Some actual proof. Thank you.
Nice demo, thanks.
Excellent Proof
Great video!!, i had to show this vid and convince my contractor that his method of stacking foils to zinc roof is utterly wrong, and they have been doing it since ages..GOSH!! Where im from, they literally starts with a zinc roof-->aluminium foil-->rockwool-->metal net(to hold the rockwool) there goes ur roof.
This vid needs to be virally shared
Thanks for the comment. Where are you from? Can you send me some pictures of this install method? A great case/example of what NOT to do. support(at)atticfoil.com
Thank you sir
Cool! Good video!
thank you for sharing :)
thinking of renovating this 1970 trailer home and then renting it out. could this be applied over the entire trailer? or am i missing the point?
Probably. You just need to make sure the foil faces an airspace.
Would this work in a van? Like a cargo van converted to an RV type of thing? I was thinking if I put half inch spacers every 12 inches or so and attached this stuff to that then it would create that air gap but is that enough of a gap? the spacers would likely be wood and the foil would be glued to them and then a later of foam insulation and whatever ceiling material I choose will be mounted to the roof on those spacers. DO you think this would work well?
Yes, this works well. We have had many customers install inside vans, buses, shipping containers etc. using methods similar to what you suggest. Often, you just have to get a little creative to make it work.
I just purchased some LP tech shield plywood for my roof. Written on the plywood states “ fastened with foil side face down” why would that be?
Thanks! Good video with good information 🤙🏽
So the foil faces the airspace of the attic. Installing foil like www.RoofingFoil.com facing "UP" only works if the roof has an airspace above the foil. Usually metal or tile roofs.
Should the radiant barrier be a replacement for rockwool? Or would I see even better performance if install both radiant barrier and rockwool underneath, it in terms of not letting the house to heat up? thanks
Radiant barrier and traditional insulation work together. Radiant barrier is the first line of defense against radiant heat and regular insulation is the 2nd line of defense against conductive heat. Take a look at this video for more info: th-cam.com/video/N0-YD32ujYY/w-d-xo.html
Cool demo Ed. Is the radiant barrier practical for colder climates up north or primarily best for Florida and hotter regions? Thanks, David
It really works anywhere the sun shines. If you need to run AC to keep a building cool then a lot of the heat is probably coming in through the roof. RoofingFoil in the roof will have a similar effect as a really cloudy day or putting a tree over the roof part of a building.
@@AtticFoil That sounds good. I'll make sure to get the info out there to roofers. Take care, David
Any adverse effects if i do the roof foil with 1in space and my attic already has attic foil in place??
No adverse effect. You can have as many layers of foil as you want. Each one will have a diminishing benefit. We have had many customers who had AtticFoil install the www.RoofingFoil.com when they got a new roof. I say "The only thing better than having a radiant barrier IN your attic is to have one on TOP of your roof deck". The further to the outside of the assembly the better. Call me if you are doing RoofingFoil.com I'll give you a discount for the good question. Ed.
What about copperflect with permeable air holes?
Copperflect is more of a traditional radiant barrier like our product www.AtticFoil.com perforated product. However, it falls into the "Metalized Film" category since the copper is vaporized and applied to the fabric. Then, they have to add a clear coat to keep it from oxidizing and reduces its reflectivity rating to below aluminum of 97%. Honestly, I think it's an expensive gimmick product. Pure aluminum radiant barrier has been used around the world for 50 years with great results. Let us send you some FREE samples. You can DIY or hire a "handyman" to install for a lot less. Here is our info comparing Pure Aluminum products to Metalized Film (MPET) Products and what can happen when you perforate MPET products: atticfoil.com/index.php/technical-info/metalized-radiant-barrier-film-oxidation/ We sell MORE Radiant Barrier than anyone because it's a great quality product using a proven method.
Would this work with closed cell spray foam sprayed directly on a metal roof, then an air gap, then the radiant barrier, then the interior wall material?
Will it "work"? Yes, it will work. However, if your main goal is to keep heat out, then you will have a minimal benefit. To keep heat out, you want radiant barrier first, and THEN regular insulation for conductive heat. If you main goal is to KEEP heat in, then your proposed method will work great. www.AtticFoil.com
@@AtticFoil Thank you for that. This application would be applied in extreme northwest Montana so keeping the heat in and the cold out is the primary objective.
What if you want to install some sort of radiant barrier not beneath the shingles but in your actual attic, like on the attic roof? Would you still need to make a batten grid? OR should you just be using a completely different sort of product to address the issue when installing inside the attic?
We have a whole website www.AtticFoil.com for this exact application. It's the original product and we sell millions of sq. ft every year. Just staple to bottom of rafters and it's like instant shade for your roof.
I am putting a metal roof over a shingled one. Can I use your product over the shingles?
Absolutely! This is a very common use and application. www.RoofingFoil.com
What is the Minimum Air Space Thickness to give Optimum Barrier. 1/2", 1", 1 1/2" or 2". A video proof would be super.
It's a little difficult to exactly quantify. If the airspace is "vented" - air moving through it, 1/4" or more will work. The default/safe answer is 1/2". If the space is "dead" you really want 1/2" or more. If the air is dead it still becomes a conductor to an extent.
What about in a cold climate, does it work just as well?
Absolutely! Most "cold" climate areas still have plenty of hot-sunny days. RoofingFoil will keep the home or building more comfortable and energy efficient. Obviously, homes in Hot-Sunny areas have more potential days for the benefit. Considering the minimal additional cost it's still worth it even in cold areas.
Simon Vestergaard It won’t really do much for you in the winter as far as keeping your interior space heated
@@bighammer587 I think it would radiate the internal heat back into the house, if you just install the foil on its own so that both the external and internal surfaces of the foil are exposed.
I've been reviewing your information and videos off and on the past few months and I'm still unclear on what's the best path as I live in an extreme heat environment (Arizona heat) with home that isn't the usual setup. I don't have soffit vents, but one roof vent in the front (hottest part of the home in the evening face west), and one gable vent in the back about a foot lower than the front vent. Home built in 1985, 2-story and the attic only covers half the home (other half of home is a high rise ceiling). Ceramic oval tile roofing, a/c ducts lay on the attic floor. Main problem is there is no air movement in the attic, and my first thought was an gable vent fan. Than I watch AtticFoil's recommendation not to use (solar powered) attic fans. I understand that pressurizing the attic can cause problems, and with the use of a radiant foil insulation attic fans are not preferred. I understand staple up is the preferred method but there's little room in the attic. In summation I'd love to see a video by AtticFoil on radiant barrier advantages in hot desert homes (and any advice for my home situation if possible).
Dan, you have a unique situation where fans would probably be OK combined with www.AtticFoil.com If space is tight, consider the hybrid method here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/hybrid-install/ or lay it out. Either way is better than nothing. As for the fan, I would go with a smaller fan and make sure to set it high (maybe 120º) so it's actually cooling and not just moving air with no purpose. Using an unobstructed open gable vent as an intake vent is OK and should provide cross ventilation without the usual problems of clogged soffit vents. You may also want ot look to other places to add an intake vent. A porch is and easy place to do this.
You have a unique situation where a gable fan is probably ok. Having another gable vent to allow air in the attic is usually big enough to keep the home from getting depressurized. Regular soffit vents easily get clogged but gable vents stay open. Stapling up www.AtticFoil.com is "Best" for your area, but laying on floor and going over the ductwork will work great too.
What in Rainy State like Kerala , India the Aluminium Foil on the Roof gets Wet. ?
What will happen ?
It gets wet, it dries and then you install the roof. No big deal.
My question is how much does a layer of dust degrade the performance of the foil?
Dust can reduce the reflectivity. It's a cumulative effect. It would take a lot of dust to have significant impact on the radiant barrier's effectiveness.
Whats the minimum as far as the gap requirement?
1/2" or more is ideal.
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How slick is it to walk on? Does Sweating as you're working make it slick?
It can get pretty slick when wet. Unfortunately, for foil to be highly reflective it has to be really smooth. Most contractors are installing battens as they install www.RoofingFoil.com to help. Of course the lower the pitch of the roof the easier it will always be as far as being slick.
GOOD q
Are the companies that put foil on OSB decking just marketing fluff? I have a shed with that installed and honestly thought it was making a difference!
It works. For radiant barrier decking the attic IS the airspace. It works off the emissivity quality. Getting the foil on TOP of the roof is best, but radiant barrier decking is still good and definitely better than regular OSB.
@@AtticFoil so on my shed it is standard screwed down metal roof on top of the OSB. The foil is on the inside against the rafters. There is no airspace between the metal and the OSB. But what you're saying is the foil is the last barrier and only conducting to the rafters? By watching your videos I assumed the airspace would need to be on top but must've understood wrong.
@@jeremykoehn4004 For foil to work in ANY location it must have an airspace on one side. But, putting the foil above the roof deck like shown here with metal or tile roofs is BEST, putting inside (or bottom of deck) is still beneficial. Think of a car with a solar screen in the windshield works good, but parking under a tree is better.
Question... if that foil layer was installed foil side down touching the deck, would it still perform like it did?
Absolutely NOT! Don't do this! It will do nothing better than regular plain underlayment. Don't believe anyone who tells you it will. A bunch of roofing companies have got in trouble for selling products this way and claim to install a "radiant barrier". They had to settle with the homeowners. You MUST have an airspace on the foil side for a radiant barrier to work. This video explains it pretty well: th-cam.com/video/aU4q6RKaOQQ/w-d-xo.html