Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! I just bought a dr650 and have a whopping 4 miles on it (it's currently 8°F). I've never adjusted valves on a motor before , and I don't want to pay a shop to do it after the break in. You have eased my mind / built my confidence that this is an easy task. Thanks again!!
Great tutorial, nice to see how you actually adjust them! Mine are due at 12k now so will be doing it after watching this. The limiting factor is getting the right tools as always in here in NZ :) Thanks Dan!
Thanks Tom, Yes it is always a big problem out here. You can do it without the adjuster tool I have although it does make it alot easier. A set of feeler gauges from super cheap would do the same job also.
@@MOTODANS Eventually managed to find the wrench in stock in the southern hemisphere from Xtreme Powersports Australia. That and the feeler gauges for under $100 which is I guess reasonable. Still cheaper than paying a garage to do it! Speaking of garages your new one looks huge!!!
Nice one, yea that's not to bad. Only have to pay for it once to compared to paying someone else each time. Yea i am pretty happy with it, needs a bit of work but that's ok!
@@MOTODANS Finally took the plunge at 13k. Exhaust was on the tight side at 0.18mm but I still don't have that wrench thing and my crash bars make it really hard to reach with a spanner. Will check again in a few thousand k's and loosen those one up when I finally can source on of those tools! Thanks for your tutorial!
Thanks. Very clear. Beats the shit out of having to remove the cams to change valve lash shims on my 650 Vstrom. That’s a shitty job. Fortunately, checking the clearances doesn’t require cam removal. I’m currently on the fence over getting a BMW G650GS or a DR650. Ease of maintenance and simplicity of the DR is a big selling point. Otoh, A carburetor is not.
Great video. Will have to adjust mine soon. Really like some of the changes you have made to your DR. I wish B and B had a dealership in canada. I want some of their stuff. Keep up the good work😊😊
“Light drag” may not be scientific, but it’s helpful. I’m about to tackle this project on my recently purchased 2006, and I hadn’t found info on whether to measure based on drag. I read that the magneto cover plug is easier to remove when the engine is hot. But my gas tank is already off, and the carb disassembled. So I’m hoping for the best.
Everyone's light drag is different which is the problem. But there is a fairly big range so it doesn't have to be bang on. Yes I have heard that however you have to check the valve clearences cold so that is a pain. Good luck on removing
my 1990 DR650S I set my valves (intake & exhaust same) to 0.127mm feeler gauge. The 1990 DR is KICKSTART ONLY... 1 (one) KICK START every time. Also, the service manual is unclear, manual reads "Turn crankshaft until the "T" line on the magneto is aligned with the center of the hole". To be CLEAR, I set the line to be in the middle of the hole, which is indicated by the little "T" next to the line. The way the manual reads, makes it unclear as to what to center the "T" or the line. What I am saying is, I centered the actual LINE not the "T" to be centered in the hole. My bike sounds so good now, even when hot or cold it starts with 1 kick. I am pretty sure this distinction makes a difference, because I recently set the valves to the same feeler gauge with the "T" in the center of the hole and bike ran and sounded awful.
Just finished doing mine at 6k because I know there dealership never did it at the 1k service. I only looked because the bike was starting to be hard to start so I figured exhaust side could be tight and they were. Like you said easy job and good time to inspect the rest of the bike. Good job and great video *T4S* 👍🍻
Thanks👍 Yep high chance the dealer never did it at 1k. Interesting to hear you were having starting issues with the bike. Wondering if they were done at the first service if they would need to be touched again.
Would your bike still have starting issues when it’s warmed up or just upon initial startup ? I noticed mine takes quite a bit of choke play back n forth to get it started but it’s only when it’s been sitting in the cold and not started for a couple days. Once it’s been warmed it starts up just fine
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! I just bought a dr650 and have a whopping 4 miles on it (it's currently 8°F). I've never adjusted valves on a motor before , and I don't want to pay a shop to do it after the break in. You have eased my mind / built my confidence that this is an easy task. Thanks again!!
Thanks for watching Phil! Enjoy the bike, hopefully it warms up soon you can get out and enjoy it!
@@MOTODANS 🤞🤞🤞
Great tutorial, nice to see how you actually adjust them! Mine are due at 12k now so will be doing it after watching this. The limiting factor is getting the right tools as always in here in NZ :) Thanks Dan!
Thanks Tom, Yes it is always a big problem out here. You can do it without the adjuster tool I have although it does make it alot easier. A set of feeler gauges from super cheap would do the same job also.
@@MOTODANS Eventually managed to find the wrench in stock in the southern hemisphere from Xtreme Powersports Australia. That and the feeler gauges for under $100 which is I guess reasonable. Still cheaper than paying a garage to do it! Speaking of garages your new one looks huge!!!
Nice one, yea that's not to bad. Only have to pay for it once to compared to paying someone else each time.
Yea i am pretty happy with it, needs a bit of work but that's ok!
@@MOTODANS Finally took the plunge at 13k. Exhaust was on the tight side at 0.18mm but I still don't have that wrench thing and my crash bars make it really hard to reach with a spanner. Will check again in a few thousand k's and loosen those one up when I finally can source on of those tools! Thanks for your tutorial!
Well done, tool definitely helps. Thought you got one out of aus?
Thanks. Very clear. Beats the shit out of having to remove the cams to change valve lash shims on my 650 Vstrom. That’s a shitty job. Fortunately, checking the clearances doesn’t require cam removal. I’m currently on the fence over getting a BMW G650GS or a DR650. Ease of maintenance and simplicity of the DR is a big selling point. Otoh, A carburetor is not.
Great video. Will have to adjust mine soon.
Really like some of the changes you have made to your DR. I wish B and B had a dealership in canada. I want some of their stuff.
Keep up the good work😊😊
Thanks! Do you have any alternatives over there?
@@MOTODANS yea but non I like as much as B and B
“Light drag” may not be scientific, but it’s helpful. I’m about to tackle this project on my recently purchased 2006, and I hadn’t found info on whether to measure based on drag.
I read that the magneto cover plug is easier to remove when the engine is hot. But my gas tank is already off, and the carb disassembled. So I’m hoping for the best.
Everyone's light drag is different which is the problem. But there is a fairly big range so it doesn't have to be bang on.
Yes I have heard that however you have to check the valve clearences cold so that is a pain. Good luck on removing
my 1990 DR650S I set my valves (intake & exhaust same) to 0.127mm feeler gauge. The 1990 DR is KICKSTART ONLY... 1 (one) KICK START every time. Also, the service manual is unclear, manual reads "Turn crankshaft until the "T" line on the magneto is aligned with the center of the hole". To be CLEAR, I set the line to be in the middle of the hole, which is indicated by the little "T" next to the line. The way the manual reads, makes it unclear as to what to center the "T" or the line.
What I am saying is, I centered the actual LINE not the "T" to be centered in the hole. My bike sounds so good now, even when hot or cold it starts with 1 kick. I am pretty sure this distinction makes a difference, because I recently set the valves to the same feeler gauge with the "T" in the center of the hole and bike ran and sounded awful.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
Just finished doing mine at 6k because I know there dealership never did it at the 1k service. I only looked because the bike was starting to be hard to start so I figured exhaust side could be tight and they were. Like you said easy job and good time to inspect the rest of the bike. Good job and great video *T4S* 👍🍻
Thanks👍 Yep high chance the dealer never did it at 1k. Interesting to hear you were having starting issues with the bike. Wondering if they were done at the first service if they would need to be touched again.
Would your bike still have starting issues when it’s warmed up or just upon initial startup ? I noticed mine takes quite a bit of choke play back n forth to get it started but it’s only when it’s been sitting in the cold and not started for a couple days.
Once it’s been warmed it starts up just fine
@@AustinnSearss Hi, on cold starts only once warm it was fine. It's another reason I keep the carb on DR650's stock to eliminate extra variables.
I'm about due for this on mine! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks !!
Why does the DR have two spark plugs close together ?
Helps with a more even complete burn of the fuel thus reducing emissions
It’s God’s will.
Nice one Dan. Been looking to try this one myself. Cheers. ATB Jason 👍
Cheers Jason👍
Well done thanks!
Thanks for watching
Buongiorno. Video bello . Suzuki dr 650 is = suzuki 600 dr ?
Grazie! No, non credo che il 600 sia uno dei primi modelli. Potrebbe essere simile per questa ispezione
For what is it sp 46 or 43 which 650dr?
Not sure what you mean? Dr650 2001 onwards?
The older one have different disdance valves! Sp 46 until 0.22mm out, in until 12 mm
@@MOTODANS this motorbikr is build more as 25 years there is sp 42, 43,44,45 and complete new 1996 or 1997 sp46!
Ive only ever had to loosen a time or 2 in 56000 klms
That's pretty good going Douglas 👍
Thanks for making this video needed this help! but to make it clear form me, is it 0.003-0.005 inches or mm?
No problem Johan. Glad it is of help. 0.08mm - 0.13mm (0.003-0.005 inches) for the intake
0.17mm-0.22mm (0.007-0.009 inches) for the exhaust
👍
8 front 4 for back
that's a nice tool
Sure is. Was worth the cost in my opinion makes the job alot easier.