I took a shop class in 1975, used a craftsman saw at least that old ever since . Just used class saw safety ever since, use the saw several times week. Got bit twice with kick back but the teeth have not bit me using what I learned fifty years ago! Thanks to my teacher Mr.Friend🥇🥇🥇🥇
I also thank you for this video and your work in helping Shark Guard. You helped with the "113" kits, but Shark Guard has worked to expand the line and has kits for my "315" Craftsman 10" table saw. I watched your video, contacted Ron at Shark Guard and he is shipping a kit to me. Your work is helpful on multiple levels! Fantastic!
Thank you for making this video Heiko and kudos to the guy who has invented this and done the tough, iterative work to make it better. I just installed a replacement blade guard for a used Skilsaw and I'm not impressed. It may be safer, but I can't see through it and it doesn't provide any dust collection - plus the pawls don't retract like the ones on the Shark Guard do.
Well, had to subscribe as I have owned three VW Transporters, three Beetles and a VW Fox. I also own three Craftsman saws. A 1937 bandsaw, a 1962 9" table saw and a 1972 10" table saw. This video was very helpful.
NooB question: I just acquired this same saw. How do I keep the blade from turning when I try to use the wrench to remove the nut to change out the blade?
after taking the table insert off, expose the blade all the way, than wedge a piece of wood into the teeth to the balde and then take the nut loose that holds the blade on the arbor. Cheers
Hello thank you so much for this video... I too found an old Craftsman table saw on Craigslist.. I think it may be the same model as yours only with different extensions I will try contacting the company like you did to see if I could get the template as well! 🙂👍
Hi, Any chance you have a link to where to get the lever and bolt you used? I downloaded the template and am going to make one for my saw. Thank you for making this video. Also too anyone that is wounding, the thread size of the hole is 10-32 pitch, and the hole is 1/2" deep.
I am in a similar situation as you (1962 Craftsman 113.29992). Is there a way you could post a picture of your cradle (part where all parts attach) where the splitter attaches? I want to see if this would work for me? ( I wish I could help you determine age, but it is a 1950's model!)
I just acquired a very similar saw (27521 I think) and am very interested in seeing the attachment up close. Do you have any pictures or videos showing how the mechanism works up close? I think I have a pretty good idea, but I can't seem to find any additional info
If your saw is a craftsman it should have a model number somewhere on the housing. The models are model specific. Once you have that number you can head over to the sharkguard webpage and see which models they have kits for. Greetings
Thank you Heiko for making the video. I too have a craftsman 113.27520 table saw. I need some help with adjusting the motor to provide enough power to the blade. The blade is having a hard time ripping through a 2x12 it actually stops the blade. Any assistance you can provide would be very helpful. I have reached out to Shark Guard to purchase the guard. Thank you, Mike
check what motor you have. Voltage and rpm, then we can look into the pulley ratio that you have on your saw and maybe you need to change a couple pullies. Also make sure your pulley is not slipping.
@@HeikosGarage probably too late.. but also check the set screw on the arbor pulley. Mine was loose, and would work intermittently due to the pulley slipping under high load...
Check out this webpage. You can look up if they support your model of saw and they also give you information on how the guard gets attached. www.thesharkguard.com/
You are right. They are not listing this old model number but I would suggest you just contact them with the model number of your saw and see what they say.
Thank you, Heiko for making this video. I also have an old craftsman table saw that I have been wanting to install a guard, splitter, and dust collection on - you have found a way to do all three. That's beautiful. I will look into this. I also like your fencing system. Did you make that yourself? or di it came as a kit?
Hey there, so you said in your video that you had received the plans direct from Shark Guard before having them fabricated and modifying them a bit. It doesn't appear as if they ever actually put these up for sale, did you still have the plans available for download? I've reached out to them directly but was hoping you might have them immediately available.
I got plans and made mockups out of thin plywood to see if the design fits. After that the guy from shark guard cut them for me out of stainless. I test fit those and told him what needed to change. Then he made the final version for me. Just email the guy, tell him you saw the guard on my TH-cam channel and give him your saw model number. He is going to make it happen.
Hey, quick question. Have you ever used a micro jig or something similar before? I'm wondering because you can't use it with the blade guard, so I'm trying to figure out which one I would rather have
I helped the manufacturer to get the shape of the guard mounts to fit the saw. I just made thin plywood prototypes and told him how to change his CAD design.
Great job on the video and your commentary is very helpful. I have the same saw and I think mine is more like circa 1951 to maybe 1953 at the latest. If you look at the serial number plate on the saw cabinet itself (not the motor plate, that is different) and look very closely maybe even with a jeweler's loupe at the upper left corner of the aluminum plate (still within the black paint) you should see a number; mine is stamped "51" and then of course to the right of that in the silver or aluminum model number section it is stamped " 113.27520" - but then in the upper right corner of the number plate (back in the black paint again) mine is stamped "32". I'm guessing that means my saw was built on the 32nd day of 1951? I got an eight page owner's manual and parts list in PDF for mine for free at Vintage Machinery.org. Mine is the 10" version with a one horsepower 120 volt single phase motor. There are 8" versions of this saw as well; I think you can tell the difference by the smaller pulley at the motor on the 10". I just spent lot so hours disassembling, replacing arbor and motor bearings with tight SKF, soaking in molasses and brass brushing every nut, washer and bolt on this saw but am happy with the result it really is as good as new - although wouldn't want any kids around mine when in use or if I'm not around.
Well I don't know but that does help me because your example seems to eliminate my previous theory that the upper left numbers denoted the year of manufacture. In other words "51"if that meant "1951" made sense with my version of the saw based on the model number and general vintage of my version of the saw; but "25" possibly meaning "1925" sounds far too early. Well, perhaps those stamped numbers are instead the Sears part numbers just for the actual number plates and not the entire saw? I notice the serial number plates are missing from the parts list in both of my owner's manuals, so no way to check that theory I know of. Maybe someone who knows will see this and chime in.
Yes my friend good design I have one similar but thanks you to should me this design now I’m mechanic carpenter and now I don’t need to spend 450 English pounds I like the video and really appreciate and now I’m going to make one when I going back to Colombia I in London at the moment old things especially the table saw american made last for ever new ones don’t
I took a shop class in 1975, used a craftsman saw at least that old ever since . Just used class saw safety ever since, use the saw several times week. Got bit twice with kick back but the teeth have not bit me using what I learned fifty years ago! Thanks to my teacher Mr.Friend🥇🥇🥇🥇
Awesome video. I'm on probably my third old craftsman saw and I'm trying to make this one safer, and this is just what I needed.
I have the same saw, thanks for posting this video, it's so helpful when people like you do things like this. I need to order one.
I also thank you for this video and your work in helping Shark Guard. You helped with the "113" kits, but Shark Guard has worked to expand the line and has kits for my "315" Craftsman 10" table saw. I watched your video, contacted Ron at Shark Guard and he is shipping a kit to me. Your work is helpful on multiple levels! Fantastic!
Thank you for making this video Heiko and kudos to the guy who has invented this and done the tough, iterative work to make it better. I just installed a replacement blade guard for a used Skilsaw and I'm not impressed. It may be safer, but I can't see through it and it doesn't provide any dust collection - plus the pawls don't retract like the ones on the Shark Guard do.
Well, had to subscribe as I have owned three VW Transporters, three Beetles and a VW Fox. I also own three Craftsman saws. A 1937 bandsaw, a 1962 9" table saw and a 1972 10" table saw. This video was very helpful.
good stuff man, was looking into buying this product for an older saw I have and this was perfect and very detailed!
Thanks
This is the most promising product for a Craftsman saw that I've seen. I REALLY want to know when they put this product on the market.
It is on the market. Www.Thesharkguard.com
Thank you for the video. I too have the same saw 113.27520. I went on Shark Guard's website and found the dust collection parts for the saw.
1950’s Circa. I have the same model. They last forever. Yours is much nicer than mine.
NooB question: I just acquired this same saw. How do I keep the blade from turning when I try to use the wrench to remove the nut to change out the blade?
after taking the table insert off, expose the blade all the way, than wedge a piece of wood into the teeth to the balde and then take the nut loose that holds the blade on the arbor. Cheers
I have a saw just like your I really need that type of guard for it thanks for the info
113.27520 where made starting in february1952, per the Craftsman Manual.
Hello thank you so much for this video... I too found an old Craftsman table saw on Craigslist.. I think it may be the same model as yours only with different extensions
I will try contacting the company like you did to see if I could get the template as well! 🙂👍
How do you get template download link?
Hi, Any chance you have a link to where to get the lever and bolt you used? I downloaded the template and am going to make one for my saw. Thank you for making this video. Also too anyone that is wounding, the thread size of the hole is 10-32 pitch, and the hole is 1/2" deep.
I am in a similar situation as you (1962 Craftsman 113.29992). Is there a way you could post a picture of your cradle (part where all parts attach) where the splitter attaches? I want to see if this would work for me? ( I wish I could help you determine age, but it is a 1950's model!)
I believe these are from the early to mis50’s
I have the same saw. Just the other day I saw a webpage that you can use to date your saw. Can’t find it again right now but I’ll look again.
Have you found that page yet?
I just acquired a very similar saw (27521 I think) and am very interested in seeing the attachment up close. Do you have any pictures or videos showing how the mechanism works up close? I think I have a pretty good idea, but I can't seem to find any additional info
If your saw is a craftsman it should have a model number somewhere on the housing. The models are model specific. Once you have that number you can head over to the sharkguard webpage and see which models they have kits for. Greetings
Thank you Heiko for making the video. I too have a craftsman 113.27520 table saw. I need some help with adjusting the motor to provide enough power to the blade. The blade is having a hard time ripping through a 2x12 it actually stops the blade. Any assistance you can provide would be very helpful. I have reached out to Shark Guard to purchase the guard.
Thank you,
Mike
check what motor you have. Voltage and rpm, then we can look into the pulley ratio that you have on your saw and maybe you need to change a couple pullies. Also make sure your pulley is not slipping.
@@HeikosGarage probably too late.. but also check the set screw on the arbor pulley. Mine was loose, and would work intermittently due to the pulley slipping under high load...
Great video! What are the details on attaching the riving knife to the saw?
Check out this webpage. You can look up if they support your model of saw and they also give you information on how the guard gets attached. www.thesharkguard.com/
Thank you for making this video! You now have a 72nd subscriber. Lol
do you know if they ever put these into production? i don't see anything on the site that indicates model availability.
Good work.
Good question. Let me check.
You are right. They are not listing this old model number but I would suggest you just contact them with the model number of your saw and see what they say.
Thank you, Heiko for making this video. I also have an old craftsman table saw that I have been wanting to install a guard, splitter, and dust collection on - you have found a way to do all three. That's beautiful. I will look into this. I also like your fencing system. Did you make that yourself? or di it came as a kit?
The guard is made by SharkGuard www.thesharkguard.com/. The fence system was made back in the 80s or 90s by Paralok. Greetings,
could you produce the 3 metal spitters like you have in your vid? I just got once of these models and need these too.
Www.Thesharkguard.com is the place where you can buy those. Thanks for the comment.
@@HeikosGarage i just sent them an email.
Nice and informative video. What thickness splitter and dust collection port did you get?
the dust port is 2 1/2 I believe and the splitter is for a thin kerf blade. Thanks for your comment.
Hey there, so you said in your video that you had received the plans direct from Shark Guard before having them fabricated and modifying them a bit.
It doesn't appear as if they ever actually put these up for sale, did you still have the plans available for download? I've reached out to them directly but was hoping you might have them immediately available.
I got plans and made mockups out of thin plywood to see if the design fits. After that the guy from shark guard cut them for me out of stainless. I test fit those and told him what needed to change. Then he made the final version for me. Just email the guy, tell him you saw the guard on my TH-cam channel and give him your saw model number. He is going to make it happen.
Hey, quick question. Have you ever used a micro jig or something similar before? I'm wondering because you can't use it with the blade guard, so I'm trying to figure out which one I would rather have
No, I have not. Sorry can't help.
So what did you have to fabricate / modify to make them fit your saw.
I helped the manufacturer to get the shape of the guard mounts to fit the saw. I just made thin plywood prototypes and told him how to change his CAD design.
Great job ! What did you use to polish the table?
I used scotch bride pads plus wd40 and at the end past wax.
Could you give me the link for the supplier
www.thesharkguard.com/
Great job on the video and your commentary is very helpful. I have the same saw and I think mine is more like circa 1951 to maybe 1953 at the latest. If you look at the serial number plate on the saw cabinet itself (not the motor plate, that is different) and look very closely maybe even with a jeweler's loupe at the upper left corner of the aluminum plate (still within the black paint) you should see a number; mine is stamped "51" and then of course to the right of that in the silver or aluminum model number section it is stamped " 113.27520" - but then in the upper right corner of the number plate (back in the black paint again) mine is stamped "32". I'm guessing that means my saw was built on the 32nd day of 1951? I got an eight page owner's manual and parts list in PDF for mine for free at Vintage Machinery.org. Mine is the 10" version with a one horsepower 120 volt single phase motor. There are 8" versions of this saw as well; I think you can tell the difference by the smaller pulley at the motor on the 10". I just spent lot so hours disassembling, replacing arbor and motor bearings with tight SKF, soaking in molasses and brass brushing every nut, washer and bolt on this saw but am happy with the result it really is as good as new - although wouldn't want any kids around mine when in use or if I'm not around.
Police Dog thanks for tip. I will check the plate.
Police Dog I just checked. Upper left hand corner has #25 and upper right hand corner #33. What does that mean?
Well I don't know but that does help me because your example seems to eliminate my previous theory that the upper left numbers denoted the year of manufacture. In other words "51"if that meant "1951" made sense with my version of the saw based on the model number and general vintage of my version of the saw; but "25" possibly meaning "1925" sounds far too early. Well, perhaps those stamped numbers are instead the Sears part numbers just for the actual number plates and not the entire saw? I notice the serial number plates are missing from the parts list in both of my owner's manuals, so no way to check that theory I know of. Maybe someone who knows will see this and chime in.
How did you attach the hose?
The standard shop vac hose fits into the fitting.
@@HeikosGarage Thank you!
Did you have the 4” port?
@@danielortiz7403 the vac hose is 2 1/4 inches and fits right into the fitting.
Great video, but at $175 it's not real affordable... But I might just buy the splitter for $40.
Its cheaper than a visit to the emergency room.
Sharkguard’s push stick is made of “Cordite”. That could prove to be more exciting than any kickback!
@@keithhboard84 he didn't say go without, he said he would buy an original splitter for $40. Same safety for 25% off the cost.
I bought their splitter/riving knife. Absolutely useless! The splitter is made of this soft, not truly flat aluminum or alloy. Crap!
@@antonioperez1624 my splitter/ guard mount is stainless steel. But I have had it for a long time and maybe they changed the product.
@@HeikosGarage the red mount is acceptable, not great but acceptable. It's the actual splitter that is not up to par.
Yes my friend good design I have one similar but thanks you to should me this design now I’m mechanic carpenter and now I don’t need to spend 450 English pounds I like the video and really appreciate and now I’m going to make one when I going back to Colombia I in London at the moment old things especially the table saw american made last for ever new ones don’t