@@triac777 Yes, this happened when I stated heating up the mold more. I imagine it cooked some of the oils out of the iron. What I use now is a high temp, dry film lubricant. It works!
Spray the mold with wd40 prior to pour. It adds a layer of carbon which keeps it from sticking to the steel and allows the smelt to fall right out. Got that from Jason at Mt Baker....
@@SunCityOffroadRecovery Hello Timothy. I do offer prospecting tours and real world classes. I appreciate your support, it means a lot! I live for this stuff! You can find us on FB or check out www.coloradogoldcamp.com
The hematite in my area is supposed to contain large amounts of micron gold inside the hematite. This is the only video I could find on the internet of someone smelting oxides instead of sulfides. What flux recipe would you recommend? Maybe I can hit you up in an email so we can talk more?
Thanks for posting. You mentioned you would offer an opinion about the value of your final product in relation to the time and costs of your efforts. I must have missed that part. Also, why don't you oxidize the lead prior to mixing it with your smelt chemicals? You certainly have some nice equipment so I think locating a better site might be in order.
Hello Richard. I talk about the value proposition right at the end. I will be doing some definitive testing on spent cons in an upcoming video. Most of the visible gold (1.5 oz) was already extracted from these concentrates prior smelting.
Nice video. Couple questions: did you add the matte from smelt 1 to smelt 2? What flux recipe are you using? I don’t preheat my large conical steal mold and it doesn’t stick.
Hey UT. Did not add the matte from the smelt. I will be doing definitive testing for this material next week. I had the same experience with the heavy mold. I did however figure out that preheating the mold does help the small straggler bb's of collector metal make it down to the button. Flux: chapman after roast on these cons.
I've found that the black sand becomes more magnetic if you put it in an oven, then you can easily just separate the gold from the sand making it more pure. Still have to use acid to make it 999 pure
I LOVE the DIY sluice box!
Thanks SCS, it works a charm!
@@triac777 Yes, this happened when I stated heating up the mold more. I imagine it cooked some of the oils out of the iron. What I use now is a high temp, dry film lubricant. It works!
thats what we all talking about! Thanks for consistently showing the whole process for all of us!
Spray the mold with wd40 prior to pour. It adds a layer of carbon which keeps it from sticking to the steel and allows the smelt to fall right out. Got that from Jason at Mt Baker....
Was just pausing to comment this exact thing :D
I am a year late but how does one make black glass actual balck glass
The garnet factory!
The smelting / cupellation process is really fascinating. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Very cool man.Crazy how much gold is still in the black sands.
The next round of definitive testing will be exciting!!
looking good fam. keep at it. GOLD SQUAD OUT!!!
Thanks for posting, surprised to see all that gold below the cube.
Those extremely thin larger flakes are near impossible to catch!
Great video love that smelting!!!
Enjoyed watching
Thanks Jack!
What a beautiful day! Looks like fun to me! Hello from Loveland /wave
👋Thanks Jody, it sure was!
This is how the big boys do it
Do y'all ever offer gold mining trips?
Yeah he does! They are awesome
@@SCSColoradoable man how do I go about getting in touch with him then. I'd really like to get out there. He's the best miner I've seen on TH-cam
@@SunCityOffroadRecovery Hello Timothy. I do offer prospecting tours and real world classes. I appreciate your support, it means a lot! I live for this stuff! You can find us on FB or check out www.coloradogoldcamp.com
Does that cost include your time? Mining seems to be soooo time consuming
Nooooo. Haha, if I calculated my time value, I would be broke ;)
You ever watch mbmmllc? He sprays wd40 on his cone mold to keep the pour from sticking.
Yes, wd40 and even spent oil can work. My go to now is a dry film lubricant.
Enjoyed 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yeehaww! I was back in WI over thanksgiving and thought of you. Heavy Pans!!
You might have already figured this out, but some powdered graphite in your mold works pretty well.
it works,,,,, going to try this with my black sands
Nice setup good work thanks for showing most just talk
My pleasure Dig! I have heard rumors that the non magnetics in this area are loaded in gold and silver so had to find out for myself.
why do you wear a resperator
Smelting and cupelling can produce noxious fumes that are not safe to breathe.
Even melting bars of let's say, brass is quite dangerous.
Mount Baker Mining uses wd40 slicker than snot!
Love it!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Awesome video. I’ve never seen these process completed. It was fascinating.
The hematite in my area is supposed to contain large amounts of micron gold inside the hematite. This is the only video I could find on the internet of someone smelting oxides instead of sulfides. What flux recipe would you recommend? Maybe I can hit you up in an email so we can talk more?
Try spraying a little w -40 right before the pour slides out easier
I literally posted this a minute before you said wd40 😂
Hehe, thanks Jordan! I'm now using a dry film lubricant. Works n doesn't burn.
Thanks for posting. You mentioned you would offer an opinion about the value of your final product in relation to the time and costs of your efforts. I must have missed that part. Also, why don't you oxidize the lead prior to mixing it with your smelt chemicals? You certainly have some nice equipment so I think locating a better site might be in order.
Hello Richard. I talk about the value proposition right at the end. I will be doing some definitive testing on spent cons in an upcoming video. Most of the visible gold (1.5 oz) was already extracted from these concentrates prior smelting.
Flux component??
Nice video. Couple questions: did you add the matte from smelt 1 to smelt 2? What flux recipe are you using? I don’t preheat my large conical steal mold and it doesn’t stick.
Hey UT. Did not add the matte from the smelt. I will be doing definitive testing for this material next week. I had the same experience with the heavy mold. I did however figure out that preheating the mold does help the small straggler bb's of collector metal make it down to the button. Flux: chapman after roast on these cons.
@@ColoradoGoldCamp thanks and good luck! Love the videos!
Bone ash or MgO cupel?
Hello teacher, please tell us the name of the helpers, thank you ❤
I wonder if your lead was mercury covered gold?
always put a little borax in there at the bottom to keep it from sticking....it works for the iron or the graphite molds....peace
I miss your videos!
I found spraying wd40 helps keep your pour from sticking to the mold..
Spray some oil on your button mould so you have a thin layer of carbon to seperate your smelted black sands from the mould.
Nice
Use some wd-40 it will burn when you poor but it will form a slight carbon film and allow for easy release.
I've found that the black sand becomes more magnetic if you put it in an oven, then you can easily just separate the gold from the sand making it more pure. Still have to use acid to make it 999 pure
Fun video. Try wd40 as a mild release.
WD-40 is only partially effective. I strongly recommend spraying with Silicone Spray.
I have used wd40 for my molds to release easier
I hear wd40 works well for the release. MBMM has a good channel that might answer some questions or give you some ideas.
It does, thanks. Dry film lubricant is also good.
I feel like I am watching mbmm 's channel. Informative though.
Berapa harga cetakanya
Flux.... Borax
Gr