Yes, PocketWizard has had a capability called "Hypersync" that is very similar to what Elinchrom is now doing. The challenge with the PocketWizard system is that it takes a lot of testing and adjusting to make the whole thing work to its full potential. It also requires different settings for different cameras and lights. What Elinchrom has done is make that system much more automatic - basically it's plug and play - it just works without any digging in and playing with timing settings to make everything work. If you check out Elinchrom's website, they have a page that discusses this!
Joe, you are right. PW is a real pain to understand and their instructions are complex. I do not use them on automatic or Hypersync very often. I use them in manual mode using a Sekonic 478-DR meter to adjust the output of my speedlights, and they work great for portraits as you have taught in so many videos. I want to thank you for all the videos you have made. You have helped me to understand speedlights and studio monolights and how to create wonderful portraits in any kind of light. I also appreciate you continuing to teach people how to use other cameras and lighting gear. You are obviously a very nice person.
I use a light meter for all of my standard sync-speed shots, but unfortunately the way hi-sync works, it's not possible to effectively use a light meter. The flash pulse is timed to give the most it can during the time the shutter is open. However, the flash duration is much longer than the fast shutter speeds (1/1000 and higher) and the result is that the meter gets fooled. The meter reads the entire flash pulse, but the shutter is only open for a portion of the pulse. The higher the shutter speed, the more flash is not used. So while the meter may read f16, as you go up in shutter speed, the actual amount of light will start dropping and at 1/4000th of a second you might only get f4 worth of light. It would be great if we could measure the light based on the shutter speed, but that technology isn't available to use (yet!). Thanks for the question!
hi joe , haven't seen you for a long time , miss you and your tutoria
Isn't it true Pocket Wizard TT1 and TT5 have done this for years for Nikon and Canon?
Yes, PocketWizard has had a capability called "Hypersync" that is very similar to what Elinchrom is now doing. The challenge with the PocketWizard system is that it takes a lot of testing and adjusting to make the whole thing work to its full potential. It also requires different settings for different cameras and lights. What Elinchrom has done is make that system much more automatic - basically it's plug and play - it just works without any digging in and playing with timing settings to make everything work. If you check out Elinchrom's website, they have a page that discusses this!
Joe, you are right. PW is a real pain to understand and their instructions are complex. I do not use them on automatic or Hypersync very often. I use them in manual mode using a Sekonic 478-DR meter to adjust the output of my speedlights, and they work great for portraits as you have taught in so many videos.
I want to thank you for all the videos you have made. You have helped me to understand speedlights and studio monolights and how to create wonderful portraits in any kind of light. I also appreciate you continuing to teach people how to use other cameras and lighting gear. You are obviously a very nice person.
You use light meter?
I use a light meter for all of my standard sync-speed shots, but unfortunately the way hi-sync works, it's not possible to effectively use a light meter. The flash pulse is timed to give the most it can during the time the shutter is open. However, the flash duration is much longer than the fast shutter speeds (1/1000 and higher) and the result is that the meter gets fooled. The meter reads the entire flash pulse, but the shutter is only open for a portion of the pulse. The higher the shutter speed, the more flash is not used. So while the meter may read f16, as you go up in shutter speed, the actual amount of light will start dropping and at 1/4000th of a second you might only get f4 worth of light. It would be great if we could measure the light based on the shutter speed, but that technology isn't available to use (yet!). Thanks for the question!