You were itching from the insulation/ceramic fibers . You need to use a rigidizing solution to prevent those fibers from coming loose. They are very unhealthy to be breathing in. I can't understand why these kits don't come with it, or at least give a warning. That a side cool video. Hopefully you get the copper out of the tins!
You may be itchy because you didn’t put rigidizer on the fire blanket. Those fibers are flying off as you use the burner. And you don’t want to be breathing that stuff in. You don’t want to get lung cancer in ten years. Get yourself a good 3M half face respirator, not a cheap Chinese copy.
Interesting, umm completely different style than myself. Having built a forge and successfully blacksmithing. I am currently "finishing " a furnace for smelting. Thanks for the prospective.
Very interesting video. We bought a propane furnace to cast aluminum a few years ago. It works great. Have since used it to cast brass and even cast iron.
Thank youvery much for this video. It has made me want to buy a small furnace of my own. I always thought the cost would be higher ( especially in the beginning )
on the copper not coming out ...i had that same problem and i used baby powder on the bottom of it before you pour the copper in it...great vid by tha way
The tins deteriorated over repeated use that’s why you must get graphite molds. Please get a rigidizer spray, wear a respirator and use a long sleeve shirt. You don’t want to breathe in that fiberglass asbestos like insulation it’s extremely toxic.
So many people on TH-cam need to learn about what is a castable grade of aluminum and what is not. The extruded stuff you have and the junk aluminum cans are not a castable grade....would make very poor castings....the shell casings you melt is also not a castable alloy of brass, it's a drawn material....
I'm just getting into this, so I'm not pretending to be an expert here... from what I've gathered, and my initial attempts at casting seem to confirm this, alloys meant to be drawn are a lot more ductile (softer and easier to squish into shape), while alloys meant for casting tend to be harder and less prone to shrinkage as the casting cools. Metals meant for drawn and/or expanded forming like wires and cans, and I assume bullet casings after watching this, don't usually involve processes where shrinkage is a concern, so if you try to cast with an alloy that was meant to be drawn it doesn't flow as well when you pour it into the mold and you end up with more pits and voids in the final casting once everything's cooled due to the lack of flow and the metal contracting as the heat dissipates. I'm sure there are people smarter than me out there that can explain it better, but that's what I've picked up so far. For aluminum, since that's most of what I've been looking into, cast aluminum car/truck wheels and engine parts are supposed to be some of the best materials to start with if you're into recycling and don't want to have to mess with the metal's composition, and I can confirm that they flow much better and cool with much less shrinkage than pure aluminum. You have to cut them up into pieces that will fit in your furnace before you start to melt them, but that's really the hardest part. After that they're amazing. I haven't gotten into brass or bronze yet, so I can't make any recommendations there @@saraknabe4347
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You were itching from the insulation/ceramic fibers . You need to use a rigidizing solution to prevent those fibers from coming loose. They are very unhealthy to be breathing in. I can't understand why these kits don't come with it, or at least give a warning. That a side cool video. Hopefully you get the copper out of the tins!
Awesome content. One more step closer to pulling the trigger and trying this myself
You may be itchy because you didn’t put rigidizer on the fire blanket. Those fibers are flying off as you use the burner. And you don’t want to be breathing that stuff in. You don’t want to get lung cancer in ten years. Get yourself a good 3M half face respirator, not a cheap Chinese copy.
I hadn't heard of rigidizer. Thank you for the recommendation!
FYI, plumbers tefl9n tape should not be used with gas fittings. You should use yellow tape for gas.
I got that same forge but it didn't have the adjustable sleeve thingy with the butterfly nut.
Interesting, umm completely different style than myself. Having built a forge and successfully blacksmithing. I am currently "finishing " a furnace for smelting.
Thanks for the prospective.
Thank you so much for your help and time it helps alot
Very interesting video. We bought a propane furnace to cast aluminum a few years ago. It works great. Have since used it to cast brass and even cast iron.
Thank youvery much for this video. It has made me want to buy a small furnace of my own.
I always thought the cost would be higher ( especially in the beginning )
on the copper not coming out ...i had that same problem and i used baby powder on the bottom of it before you pour the copper in it...great vid by tha way
The tins deteriorated over repeated use that’s why you must get graphite molds. Please get a rigidizer spray, wear a respirator and use a long sleeve shirt. You don’t want to breathe in that fiberglass asbestos like insulation it’s extremely toxic.
Thanks for letting me know. Do you have a rigidizder you recommend?
Hi I’m building one the same can you give some details on the gas torch, did you buy it or make it
That’s a compression fit it has a tapered fit that seats with the female end on the hose ,DO NOT PUT TAP THERE AT ALL
Teflon tape is used on pipe threads not on tube threads because the seal is on the tapered surfaces.
Good to know. Thanks!
Sprinkle graphite powder or graphite molds
Heres to 1,000 subscribers
Thank you! We are so close!
Never need Teflon on flare or compression fitting only pipe threads
Some times handy on iron union nut threads , NOT SEALING SURFACES EASER TO BREAK loose later
nice furnace
i subscribed for your channel
coconut oil will help
1hr plus 😮
كم سعرها
That is a furnace, not a foundry
Indeed it seems. Lol
dont forget the ringpulls are not aluminium
Oh snap! Really?!?!?+
The bullets will pop but the bullet won’t be propelled like it would be in a gun barrel. Definitely make a mess of your furnace.
So many people on TH-cam need to learn about what is a castable grade of aluminum and what is not. The extruded stuff you have and the junk aluminum cans are not a castable grade....would make very poor castings....the shell casings you melt is also not a castable alloy of brass, it's a drawn material....
Can I over heat the aluminum?
Also, why is a drawn metal not castable? I am new to this so any information is sooooo appreciated
I'm just getting into this, so I'm not pretending to be an expert here... from what I've gathered, and my initial attempts at casting seem to confirm this, alloys meant to be drawn are a lot more ductile (softer and easier to squish into shape), while alloys meant for casting tend to be harder and less prone to shrinkage as the casting cools. Metals meant for drawn and/or expanded forming like wires and cans, and I assume bullet casings after watching this, don't usually involve processes where shrinkage is a concern, so if you try to cast with an alloy that was meant to be drawn it doesn't flow as well when you pour it into the mold and you end up with more pits and voids in the final casting once everything's cooled due to the lack of flow and the metal contracting as the heat dissipates. I'm sure there are people smarter than me out there that can explain it better, but that's what I've picked up so far. For aluminum, since that's most of what I've been looking into, cast aluminum car/truck wheels and engine parts are supposed to be some of the best materials to start with if you're into recycling and don't want to have to mess with the metal's composition, and I can confirm that they flow much better and cool with much less shrinkage than pure aluminum. You have to cut them up into pieces that will fit in your furnace before you start to melt them, but that's really the hardest part. After that they're amazing. I haven't gotten into brass or bronze yet, so I can't make any recommendations there @@saraknabe4347
Aluminum profiles, anticorodal, and cans are not suitable for melting, better parts of engines or pumps, the metal flows more.