The last 5 minutes of the video is like Highland Rhythmic Gymnastics dancing where you use your bag as a prop while dancing to bagpipe music. 😆 Seriously, though, thanks for the very informative video. It’s great that you’re on here making such great videos for people to learn about this stuff. Not all of us would be able to get this info elsewhere.
Ha! I was wondering if anyone would stick around for the “extended cut”. And happy to share what I know! Glad so many are getting something from it. 👍👍
Hi Matt, thanks for this instructions. Always nice and helpful to watch your videos! Have you ever thought of using a small sheet of normal printer paper and form a roll with it to cover the inside of the chanter stock to prevent any seasoning (or dressing ;-) ) to get onto the bore surface? I have quite good success with it.
The Canmore hybrid has a great feel, but in my experience, does not deal with moisture as well. I need a full moisture control system in my Canmore (my MacRaes are on one, so I do like them!) if I'm to play for more than 25 or 30 minutes.
I agree with Matt here. I have a Canmore hybrid on a set of poly pipes and the set up was awful in a desert-like climate, I can only image how bad they would be with serious humidity. I don’t see a way around a serious moisture trap. Gannaways are pricey compared to a Canmore hybrid but not as much as a full/traditional leather bag.
The grommeted version has rubber grommets for the blowpipe and drones, and the chanter is still able to be attached via a hose clamp rather than string. Pretty cool bag here!
@@MattWillisBagpiper nice to know, and thanx for tell me; I’m thinking about this one or Ross, the price is good and I’ve all those moisture control from my old bag. Do You recomend Ross bag?
I'm not sure I follow... The Gannaway pipe bag is a cowhide bag and is a great choice for any highland bagpipe. I'm not certain was a canvas pipe bag would be...
@@MattWillisBagpiper hey Matt I have recently discovered my grandad has a bagpipe set from Scotland and will let me use it as soon as I learn some melodies.
Good question! No idea... Tha said, pretty sure this bag is still going strong on this set of pipes and it's nearly two years old now (wasn't my set, so...)
@@MattWillisBagpiper mine is ~ 4 years old, and while still responding to treatments, doesn’t stay airtight as long as it once did and isn’t as tight once treated. I think it’s ready for a change. I’ve spoken to the company and they seem to say the same thing. You can kind of tell when there’s black/ darker spots starting to appear in the bag. I’ve got a few of those.
just got mine delivered! although without the little leather strap. and i wasnt aware about the extra highland dressing. is it really necessary in order for moisture control? and how many times do you need to reseason, i mean re apply the dressing?
The dressing is needed for moisture control. The primer is for air tightness. I occasionally recommend skipping the dressing for the driest of blowers, but that's very unusual. Even with as dry of a blower as I am, I need the dressing to keep the moisture in check. My understanding is the dressing has glycerine in it which attracts water to itself.
@@MattWillisBagpiper and what kind of moisture control system do you have in it? I was hoping i could just do with a trapdri, but i dont think that will do it?
I'm a fairly dry blower and rarely need any moisture control except on the coldest of days. To see if your bag/current moisture control setup is adequate, I have folks play for as long as they intend to (be it 10 minutes, 45 minutes, or 90 minutes... Whatever your normal practice or performance requirements are) and when done, look at your middle drone reed. How wet is it? If there's just a fine mist over the reed (or less), then you're adequate. If there is some actual droplets on the reed, take it out and look up the bore. If the bore is still dry, you could probably up the moisture control by one notch. So if you have a tube trap, perhaps adding a Trapdri to it. If you have a trapdri already, might be time to consider a canister system. If when you look up the bore if there is standing moisture in there, then yes, a more aggressive system is needed, or perhaps a more moisture fighting bag (like a goat or sheepskin). Sounds like I should make a video on this...
@@MattWillisBagpiper sounds like good advise on checking the amount of moisture. How about cane reeds? I heard they actually need some moisture? I tend to be a wet blower, but i just want to get rid of the moisture control system because they are so restrictive... When you disassemble the ganaway and refit the stocks, do you find that the grommets keep their original strength? Or are not? Lets say i start without mcs and have to add one later on, i would have to take the stocks out of the bag
Cutoffs in general are easier on hide bags. Cowhide is quite good, though not as good as goatskin, and goatskin is not quite as good as sheepskin. But any hide bag beats a synthetic one in cutoffs in my experience.
@@MattWillisBagpiper I just received my bag and it did not include that leather strip for the chanter stock. Can it be tied in using an O-ring and clamp?
@@MattWillisBagpiper it came with the clamp but no O-ring or leather strip. I did have some scrap leather and made the leather strip myself. I will give that a go and see how it goes.
@@MattWillisBagpiper - Weird, before I put in the primer it and after I corked the inside of the bag, it held air, now it isn't holding air. I checked the reeds to make sure that they were in and they were and check the chanter reed, it was secure. But it won't hold any air. Also checked the zip (twice) and it is closed. Suggestions?
Thank you for the instructions. I have just bought an Gannaway bag with all the bit and bob. South Australia. 🇦🇺💂
Have fun! Hope you enjoy the bag!
I got the Gannaway tie-in bag with zip, and your info on priming and dressing were very helpful. It was a very tight bag when done.
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Great video Matt. Really helped me with my Lee grommeted, zippered hide bag.
Glad it helped!
The last 5 minutes of the video is like Highland Rhythmic Gymnastics dancing where you use your bag as a prop while dancing to bagpipe music. 😆 Seriously, though, thanks for the very informative video. It’s great that you’re on here making such great videos for people to learn about this stuff. Not all of us would be able to get this info elsewhere.
Ha! I was wondering if anyone would stick around for the “extended cut”. And happy to share what I know! Glad so many are getting something from it. 👍👍
Thanks for doing this Matt.
My pleasure!
Very helpful information
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Matt, thanks for this instructions. Always nice and helpful to watch your videos! Have you ever thought of using a small sheet of normal printer paper and form a roll with it to cover the inside of the chanter stock to prevent any seasoning (or dressing ;-) ) to get onto the bore surface? I have quite good success with it.
I haven't heard of that idea... I'll have to give it a try!
Nice video! Do you prefer the gannaway bag over the canmore hybrid?
I do, though I don't typically play the grommeted hide bags. I prefer the shape and durability of the non-grommeted bags.
This is the type of setup I use except my MacRaes are SL3’s
Nice, do you how does it compares to the canmore hybrid? Or maybe a future comparison video idea?
The Canmore hybrid has a great feel, but in my experience, does not deal with moisture as well. I need a full moisture control system in my Canmore (my MacRaes are on one, so I do like them!) if I'm to play for more than 25 or 30 minutes.
I agree with Matt here. I have a Canmore hybrid on a set of poly pipes and the set up was awful in a desert-like climate, I can only image how bad they would be with serious humidity. I don’t see a way around a serious moisture trap. Gannaways are pricey compared to a Canmore hybrid but not as much as a full/traditional leather bag.
Hi
Does this one comes with that ruber rings for all tose stocks?
Thinking about get one...
The grommeted version has rubber grommets for the blowpipe and drones, and the chanter is still able to be attached via a hose clamp rather than string. Pretty cool bag here!
@@MattWillisBagpiper nice to know, and thanx for tell me;
I’m thinking about this one or Ross, the price is good and I’ve all those moisture control from my old bag.
Do You recomend Ross bag?
Hi sir..did that gannaway can be use at canvas pipe bag?
I'm not sure I follow... The Gannaway pipe bag is a cowhide bag and is a great choice for any highland bagpipe. I'm not certain was a canvas pipe bag would be...
Matt I'm about to get my first chanter any advice?
The RG Hardie twist-trap long practice chanter is my current go-to for new students.
@@MattWillisBagpiper thank you Matt I enjoy your content
@@MattWillisBagpiper hey Matt I have recently discovered my grandad has a bagpipe set from Scotland and will let me use it as soon as I learn some melodies.
How long have you found that type of Gannaway to last?
Good question! No idea... Tha said, pretty sure this bag is still going strong on this set of pipes and it's nearly two years old now (wasn't my set, so...)
@@MattWillisBagpiper mine is ~ 4 years old, and while still responding to treatments, doesn’t stay airtight as long as it once did and isn’t as tight once treated. I think it’s ready for a change. I’ve spoken to the company and they seem to say the same thing. You can kind of tell when there’s black/ darker spots starting to appear in the bag. I’ve got a few of those.
just got mine delivered! although without the little leather strap. and i wasnt aware about the extra highland dressing. is it really necessary in order for moisture control? and how many times do you need to reseason, i mean re apply the dressing?
The dressing is needed for moisture control. The primer is for air tightness. I occasionally recommend skipping the dressing for the driest of blowers, but that's very unusual. Even with as dry of a blower as I am, I need the dressing to keep the moisture in check. My understanding is the dressing has glycerine in it which attracts water to itself.
@@MattWillisBagpiper and what kind of moisture control system do you have in it? I was hoping i could just do with a trapdri, but i dont think that will do it?
I'm a fairly dry blower and rarely need any moisture control except on the coldest of days. To see if your bag/current moisture control setup is adequate, I have folks play for as long as they intend to (be it 10 minutes, 45 minutes, or 90 minutes... Whatever your normal practice or performance requirements are) and when done, look at your middle drone reed. How wet is it? If there's just a fine mist over the reed (or less), then you're adequate. If there is some actual droplets on the reed, take it out and look up the bore. If the bore is still dry, you could probably up the moisture control by one notch. So if you have a tube trap, perhaps adding a Trapdri to it. If you have a trapdri already, might be time to consider a canister system. If when you look up the bore if there is standing moisture in there, then yes, a more aggressive system is needed, or perhaps a more moisture fighting bag (like a goat or sheepskin). Sounds like I should make a video on this...
@@MattWillisBagpiper sounds like good advise on checking the amount of moisture. How about cane reeds? I heard they actually need some moisture? I tend to be a wet blower, but i just want to get rid of the moisture control system because they are so restrictive... When you disassemble the ganaway and refit the stocks, do you find that the grommets keep their original strength? Or are not? Lets say i start without mcs and have to add one later on, i would have to take the stocks out of the bag
We're getting into "needing to schedule a lesson" territory with that many questions. Let me know if you'd like to schedule one sometime!
How much easier is it to cut off your playing with this bag?
Cutoffs in general are easier on hide bags. Cowhide is quite good, though not as good as goatskin, and goatskin is not quite as good as sheepskin. But any hide bag beats a synthetic one in cutoffs in my experience.
@@MattWillisBagpiper I just received my bag and it did not include that leather strip for the chanter stock. Can it be tied in using an O-ring and clamp?
Did it come with an o-ring and clamp? If so, it's worth a try
@@MattWillisBagpiper it came with the clamp but no O-ring or leather strip. I did have some scrap leather and made the leather strip myself. I will give that a go and see how it goes.
I have read that a person 5'8" should have a small bag, mine is a medium and seems huge but maybe I just don't know.
Why don't we have these items in United Kingdom? Can't find it anywhere but US and NZ
I know Kilts & More carries them: kiltsandmore.com/bagpipes-accessories/pipe-bags/leather-bags/gannaway-zip-collar-bag--:k1-1207GZC:c463:len.html
@@MattWillisBagpiper thanks
The 5 minutes of rolling are over and now the 6 hours of draining and drying has started.
And it's been about 6 hours now! Let's see if it's airtight!
@@MattWillisBagpiper - Weird, before I put in the primer it and after I corked the inside of the bag, it held air, now it isn't holding air. I checked the reeds to make sure that they were in and they were and check the chanter reed, it was secure. But it won't hold any air. Also checked the zip (twice) and it is closed. Suggestions?
Have you just fully corked it up and tested it post priming?
No but I will. @@MattWillisBagpiper
Of course when I go to cork the inside of the bag at the drones, I find one of the drone reeds had fallen out. Now it works. @@MattWillisBagpiper
Better take dishwassing liquit instead of oil
How To Tie In a Ganaway Pipe Bag....Don't , get sheepskin
Depends on ones needs. A Gannoway in a dry environment works WAY better than a sheep or goatskin bag.
@@MattWillisBagpiper I love the Sheep , they provide us with amazing bags. People need to experience the power and the glory