No one is watching your videos for your intro. Its nostalgic - and doesnt work in „good or bad“ cathegories. So just keep it, for the fanboys 😀 The very famous LGR (Lazy Game Review“ channel is 10 years up and Clint did slightly modify his intro - but youll see he kept its soul 😆 Oh btw - from the official statistics: 50% watch your videos because they are good and helpful, 30% because they are soothing, 15% because of the accent and only 5% because of the intro😁
He went old school - The old "soften with liquid cement and tap" method. Thats how everyone was doing it 20+ years ago when I first got back into modeling. It's my favorite method.
I don't know, still a lot of people using liquid cement to texture armour plate, I think 👍 I also use the dremel/motor tool or putty methods (or combine techniques like Martin), depending on the look I'm after.
This feels strange to refer to you as Uncle Nightshift :), when I am a 59 year old wargamer returning to his roots of model making, although on another level to what I was making in the early 70'S. I think of myself as a figure painter, ( my period being ancient and 16/17 th century army's ), so you are teaching me a hole new level of modelling.
mentioned it before, but i really like how your models look with the armour texture, flame cut and weld beads done and not painted. Really shows off your handiwork
Well done!!!! Really in depth on texturing, weld seems and flame cuts, fantastic tips and video Love the choice jadgtiger , excellent Big fan of that beast!!!!!
Hi Martin. I do try and improve the welds and surfaces on my builds but I can be lazy. I will concentrate more on these areas as it does make the builds so more realistic
your videos are awesome i have been looking for videos to do weathering and battle damage for warhammer 40k models and i i think i will try to do weld beads to cover some seam lines on my rhinos
Mate, your videos are one of the more constructive and informative pieces of info, detail and techniques I've found on the hobby...any plans to build a plane one day? Thank you for your tutorials!
Love this video and this channel. You've definitely earned my sub, thanks for the inspiring content and the amazing guides. You're a great teacher and I love how you clearly explain everything.
Something that would be cool to see was a video of your tools, I know you always show what you use in the videos, but a video totally dedicated to that would be cool.
Be careful when looking at museum pieces! They are over 70 years old and the metal will have rusted a some point in its life. So the texture will be much more pronounced now than it was back in the day when the tank was new.
Armour steel does not rust that much to create additional textures. unless it has been under water for decades virtual-sevastopol.ru/album/kazachka/35_batareya_stug3_1.jpg this one has been in sea water for over 60 years and there is almost no pitting on the side armour
I have just subscribed... great videos!! Question: I cannot find those 4 scribers you used any way... looked on ebay and on amazon... cannot you sens a link or tell me where to look? Thank you! Bob Dakota Dunes, SD
Now, I have something else to buy on Ebay: chisel. I use the Tamiya engravers (0.1-0.3mm) for panel and wood planks, but I need something larger sometimes. And the Olfa (or Tamiya branded) scriber isn't that good for that.
If you want realism, you should make the welds the same colour as the rest of the metal. Coloured welds are a sign of oxidation (a VERY bad weld.... WELL below German standards)
@@NightShiftScaleModels I have the Tamiya one, just waiting on. An RB metal Barrel, Friul or Masterclub tracks, The skill to build it, a full photo etch probably from ET model and the Skill to build it...
@@NightShiftScaleModels Which is weird considering... Takom. Why do they make their plastic so soft and delicate though, most infuriating part of Takom kits tbf
There was a guy (figure painter) who used his lips to make brushes pointy. "That little bit won't kill me" he always said. He got away with it for about 10 years, then he was proven wrong. It's not a healthy habit to get into.
@@fonesrphunny7242 huh? Every single miniature painter I know does this. I've been doing this for 15+ years myself. It's fine, just don't lick lacquer or enamel paints.
Have you ever considered doing some of these super realistic techniques on a model from the Warhammer 40k range? I think it would be cool to see the cartoon-ish tanks done more realistic. Also glad you kept the intro tbh
The c-shape welds for vertical is because when welding in that position you want to run up hill so your weld gets good burn in(penetrating and forming a strong bond). Then something horizontal you would run right to left, pushing the weld and for the same reason as vertical, you want to push that heat forward and really burn your weld in. If you drag it you tend to get lesser penetration and typically weaker welds.
Unwatchable? You sir need a slap, I've just been rewatching a load of your videos... which needless to say I wouldnt have done were it not for the quality information in them. Stop selling yourself short and undermining yourself.
YES! I couldn't agree MORE! Making Tutorial Videos is hard ENOUGH! YOURS Sir are VERY Informative AND Entertaining! You crack me up with all of your "Old School" ways of doing things. I do ALL or MOST of those because BEFORE We had all of the tools and Vidz and such, we only HAD What we taught ourselves AND what we learned from others! So PLEASE... KNOW You have REAL "FANS" Of your work and PLEASE Keep Making them! :D Blagodaryu vas Joe
Perfect. I've got a King Tiger and Jagdtiger that need some welds. You didn't cover the multiple-pass welds in the previous video so glad to see it here!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I did Anneliese back in May with the Dragon kit (still not edited that video) and it was fun. Those vehicles had some funky camouflage under the white so they make for interesting tanks for sure. Lots of extra tracks.
I have the zvezda king tiger which is a dragon rebox. Still waiting for your king tiger series to build it. Gonna build it along with the master modellers like a big boy.
I guess you’ve not heard the story about the French female workers who ‘pointed’ their paint brushes with their lips when painting watch dials with ‘radium paint’...
Night Shift in the year 2122: This model is good but 3D printing technology in WW3 isn't like what it is today and so tanks then had this layered texture that you can cut out with a craft laser
i put it...between.... my lips...... and..... "peck".... it with my toung...... (insert weird laughter sounds here) your from that part of Europe where you have to put your personal touch to it, in this case SPIT
Yesterday I finally finished doing the welding on my first tank (1/35 Tiger) after months of buying it and now you posted this. Time to remove them and start all over lol By the way. I got really glad when I saw you using the glue on plastic method for armor texture cause I had to use that one since Tamiya putty is not available in my country. And since my brushes are quite new and soft I used old toothbrush and it seems to works better and faster for larger surfaces
If you can find them in your country, try looking for gun cleaning brushes (or on eBay). They're much more resistant to solvents. No, not the metal bristle brushes, the plastic bristle ones.
I am coming here from Warhammer 40k. Your clips are like a luxury gallery. Never again gonna just assemble and paint my Space Marines tanks :) You just made my hobby richer and more expensive 😆
THANK YOU MAN I finnaly got a model IS-2 tank as a christmas gift from my dad and your tutorials help and give confidence! edit: Not even a fucking day and i broke one piece of the drive wheel. I fucking hate myself, its like caveman level of simple, take plastic thing, put glue, put to the right place. How do i even survive daily?
... no peace of my mind about using spittle... the best natural... lubricant known to man... & nature.. anyone who says otherwise has either never had a real woman or worked anything mechanical - Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick ROCKS! Miliput is so old school... I'm 58 and have used every putty known to man in pursuit of artistic integrity... and large scale aircraft are my forte so please don't laugh at me and roll your eyes because my better skills and instincts were honed on Tamiya armour as a kid in between aircraft build's... On a differing note, you are a very humorous individual... these forums need more attitudes like your's. My kindest regards to you :)
Regarding welding patterns you are absolutely right. If there is no more possibility or other reason to twist the part you are welding, it is actually done just as you described in the position it is in, thus needing the different techniques.
Oh boy, the biggest kitty.... I haven't built any model in almost 15 years, but when I do I'll send you the pics so you can see how bad things can get XD
Hello! I am about to use these techniques for the first time and I was wondering what's a good way to clean a brush after applying the diluted tamiya putty?
I hate how big this looks on video. Here I am coming back to tanks after a hiatus with starships and planes. I picked up a Meng Panther ausf D, was all about replacing the welds, and realized just how small the details you add, are.
I am currently building an old italeri Elefant. I guess it is the right model to try out these techniques since the welding seams are awful! does standard epoxy putty do the job? Thanks!
I seem to have problems getting Tamiya Epoxy Putty in the UK so have tried to do weld seams with Miliput but it just doesn't seem to work the same way.
Good day night shift - great videos by the way - any chance you can put a link up for the scarpers you brought - it would be really helpful as goggle bless gives a thousand options - thank you in advance
If anyone finds a place to buy Mortise Chisels that are same sizes at the ones in his video, can you post a link. I have had zero luck finding anything.
I miss the old white background Edit: i lick my brushes before dipping them in paint for dry brush, it makes them wet but not too wet (i know it has to be dry but i find a litle moisture to help)
Thank you for sharing your modeling techniques. I am a beginner and it is a pleasure to learn and be able to put these new skills to use. They make my projects look so much more defined and interesting. Keep it up. I continue to follow your content. I am aware of your revised direction and want to encourage You to do what works for you and fits and feels right.
So I kept the intro 😁
Also, feels good to be back! Full build of this kitty coming next week!
I'm glad you did. I would have missed it.... somehow. It's cool!
I like the intro its quick and lets me know i’m about the master at work... kind of like a school bell
Purrrrr 🐯🐯
No one is watching your videos for your intro. Its nostalgic - and doesnt work in „good or bad“ cathegories. So just keep it, for the fanboys 😀 The very famous LGR (Lazy Game Review“ channel is 10 years up and Clint did slightly modify his intro - but youll see he kept its soul 😆 Oh btw - from the official statistics: 50% watch your videos because they are good and helpful, 30% because they are soothing, 15% because of the accent and only 5% because of the intro😁
@@ironspike171 Wouldn't want to lose those 5%!
He went old school - The old "soften with liquid cement and tap" method. Thats how everyone was doing it 20+ years ago when I first got back into modeling. It's my favorite method.
True! Also "soften with cement and hit it with dremel tool", but that's a bit too brutal for my taste :)
I don't know, still a lot of people using liquid cement to texture armour plate, I think 👍 I also use the dremel/motor tool or putty methods (or combine techniques like Martin), depending on the look I'm after.
This guy knows flamecuts and weld beads
This feels strange to refer to you as Uncle Nightshift :), when I am a 59 year old wargamer returning to his roots of model making, although on another level to what I was making in the early 70'S. I think of myself as a figure painter, ( my period being ancient and 16/17 th century army's ), so you are teaching me a hole new level of modelling.
mentioned it before, but i really like how your models look with the armour texture, flame cut and weld beads done and not painted. Really shows off your handiwork
infact, much more funny than the previous... and more detailed,, yet the new techniques are far superior! cool vid
Well done!!!! Really in depth on texturing, weld seems and flame cuts, fantastic tips and video
Love the choice jadgtiger , excellent
Big fan of that beast!!!!!
Hi Martin. I do try and improve the welds and surfaces on my builds but I can be lazy. I will concentrate more on these areas as it does make the builds so more realistic
Super-Duper useful to us that stick with ypur channel since the old videos. 🙌
your videos are awesome i have been looking for videos to do weathering and battle damage for warhammer 40k models and i i think i will try to do weld beads to cover some seam lines on my rhinos
Night Shift, you're such a freak. Great work again. Thnx for the vid!
ahh yes my two favourite uncles:
uncle google
uncle nightshift
Mate, your videos are one of the more constructive and informative pieces of info, detail and techniques I've found on the hobby...any plans to build a plane one day? Thank you for your tutorials!
Thank god you kept the intro i am ferry happy now.....
Love this video and this channel. You've definitely earned my sub, thanks for the inspiring content and the amazing guides. You're a great teacher and I love how you clearly explain everything.
Very cool techniques!
I can't wait to use these techniques on my next JagdTiger. 👍
That texture might be good for doing some stone walls on a plastic building kit.
Thanks for the update.. its cool that you did that.. Still waiting for that cast ww2 turret... lol
Something that would be cool to see was a video of your tools, I know you always show what you use in the videos, but a video totally dedicated to that would be cool.
I love the new intro!
Glad to hear that!
Be careful when looking at museum pieces! They are over 70 years old and the metal will have rusted a some point in its life. So the texture will be much more pronounced now than it was back in the day when the tank was new.
Yes some pieces may be very pitted
Armour steel does not rust that much to create additional textures. unless it has been under water for decades
virtual-sevastopol.ru/album/kazachka/35_batareya_stug3_1.jpg
this one has been in sea water for over 60 years and there is almost no pitting on the side armour
THE INTROOOOOOOO!
"forge velour" or "velour de forge" in french for the cast steel
Great video!
But now I have to change my techniques
Hello mr nightshift could you please link me the chizzles that you used would be much apreciated ! And keep up the great work
I have just subscribed... great videos!! Question: I cannot find those 4 scribers you used any way... looked on ebay and on amazon... cannot you sens a link or tell me where to look?
Thank you! Bob Dakota Dunes, SD
Dear Uncle, how do you clean brush after making texture?
Now, I have something else to buy on Ebay: chisel. I use the Tamiya engravers (0.1-0.3mm) for panel and wood planks, but I need something larger sometimes. And the Olfa (or Tamiya branded) scriber isn't that good for that.
Isn't Mr surface 500 or 1000 similar to thinned Tamiya putty? If not it would be similar and ready made , I have to say I'm new to the hobby.
Did you have a video where you used lifecolor paints to make a rusted part? I dont find it hahah, Nice job mate, your tutorials are awesome
I used them on the Type 5 Chi-Ri tracks. It's a video from summer 2019 :)
If you want realism, you should make the welds the same colour as the rest of the metal.
Coloured welds are a sign of oxidation (a VERY bad weld.... WELL below German standards)
Night Shift 2020: “I’m no welder” ????
Note to self: buy this same tank to build along uncle nightshift.
Not a bad idea at all, a bunch of folks are already building theirs 😁
@@NightShiftScaleModels I have the Tamiya one, just waiting on. An RB metal Barrel, Friul or Masterclub tracks, The skill to build it, a full photo etch probably from ET model and the Skill to build it...
@@Snonaniganz lol, the Tamiya kit is actually gonna be much better than the Takom Blitz.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Which is weird considering... Takom. Why do they make their plastic so soft and delicate though, most infuriating part of Takom kits tbf
ive done anyway from the tiger video
Its not hard core scale modelling unless your low key poisoning yourself.
There was a guy (figure painter) who used his lips to make brushes pointy. "That little bit won't kill me" he always said. He got away with it for about 10 years, then he was proven wrong. It's not a healthy habit to get into.
@@fonesrphunny7242 huh? Every single miniature painter I know does this. I've been doing this for 15+ years myself. It's fine, just don't lick lacquer or enamel paints.
Have you ever considered doing some of these super realistic techniques on a model from the Warhammer 40k range? I think it would be cool to see the cartoon-ish tanks done more realistic.
Also glad you kept the intro tbh
The c-shape welds for vertical is because when welding in that position you want to run up hill so your weld gets good burn in(penetrating and forming a strong bond). Then something horizontal you would run right to left, pushing the weld and for the same reason as vertical, you want to push that heat forward and really burn your weld in. If you drag it you tend to get lesser penetration and typically weaker welds.
Recently we have been taught to stop a grave and go stringers only no matter how its done. Engineers proved weaves are weaker
I'm happy he kept the intro. I was about to go full blitzkrieg if it was gone.
Hey Nightshift, could you put links to the tools you use in the description, especially when your describing tools used in different techniques?
Unwatchable? You sir need a slap, I've just been rewatching a load of your videos... which needless to say I wouldnt have done were it not for the quality information in them. Stop selling yourself short and undermining yourself.
YES! I couldn't agree MORE! Making Tutorial Videos is hard ENOUGH! YOURS Sir are VERY Informative AND Entertaining! You crack me up with all of your
"Old School" ways of doing things. I do ALL or MOST of those because BEFORE We had all of the tools and Vidz and such, we only HAD What we taught ourselves AND what we learned from others! So PLEASE... KNOW You have REAL "FANS" Of your work and PLEASE Keep Making them! :D
Blagodaryu vas
Joe
Finally but wheres the Part 2: Electric boogalo in the title
from hermitcraft? (tag2electricboogaloo?)
@@reedhw potential history reference
@@domino1323 ‘Electric boogaloo’ is originally a reference to an old movie.
@@reedhw hello
Ooh, so you did keep the intro. I love tutorial videos like these! So a model next week right?
Exactly!
Perfect. I've got a King Tiger and Jagdtiger that need some welds. You didn't cover the multiple-pass welds in the previous video so glad to see it here!
oooh I'd like to weld a KT! which kits do you have?
@@NightShiftScaleModels it's the AMMO 1945 kit (reboxed Takom) and I've got some resin to correct it for the July 1945 version.
@@Panzermeister36 Noice. I'm torn between the Porsche KT (Anneliese) or Henschel in hand painted Ambush pattern...
@@NightShiftScaleModels I did Anneliese back in May with the Dragon kit (still not edited that video) and it was fun. Those vehicles had some funky camouflage under the white so they make for interesting tanks for sure. Lots of extra tracks.
I have the zvezda king tiger which is a dragon rebox. Still waiting for your king tiger series to build it. Gonna build it along with the master modellers like a big boy.
I guess you’ve not heard the story about the French female workers who ‘pointed’ their paint brushes with their lips when painting watch dials with ‘radium paint’...
Uncle Night Shift "spit"....a brand new revolutionary modeling product!
Pls, put it in bottles like Bell Delfin and sell it for 30 Dollars XD
That´s a great video, mate!!! BTW, did you apply any texture on the lower part of the hull? There’s unfortunately no caption in the video. Thank you 🙏
You got me back into armour modelling over lockdown, I thank you - even if my wallet and shelf space don’t! Keep up the great work!
Night Shift in the year 2122: This model is good but 3D printing technology in WW3 isn't like what it is today and so tanks then had this layered texture that you can cut out with a craft laser
i put it...between.... my lips...... and..... "peck".... it with my toung...... (insert weird laughter sounds here)
your from that part of Europe where you have to put your personal touch to it, in this case SPIT
Yesterday I finally finished doing the welding on my first tank (1/35 Tiger) after months of buying it and now you posted this. Time to remove them and start all over lol
By the way. I got really glad when I saw you using the glue on plastic method for armor texture cause I had to use that one since Tamiya putty is not available in my country. And since my brushes are quite new and soft I used old toothbrush and it seems to works better and faster for larger surfaces
If you can find them in your country, try looking for gun cleaning brushes (or on eBay). They're much more resistant to solvents. No, not the metal bristle brushes, the plastic bristle ones.
I am coming here from Warhammer 40k. Your clips are like a luxury gallery. Never again gonna just assemble and paint my Space Marines tanks :) You just made my hobby richer and more expensive 😆
Unwatchable Nightshifts? The hell you say!
Me: *sees jagdtiger
also me: whats that hard thing in my pants?
Coming from a brush licker, I knew 100% what you were doing before you admitted doing it :-p
Super cheap scribers: 20bucks
O K
Afffff.... You know you were using 1/3 of the Tamia scriber?.... Can't see 1 video about it outside of Japan videos 😮
im building a Tiger I rn, now waiting till the new Afrika korps wash gets delivered.
Btw its my profile pic
can I please have a link to the scribers
I can't find the chisels like you show at 1:05 anywhere :
Search at eBay.com for "chisels scribe" and you will find them.
The question is which dimensions are appropriate for 1:35
Wait. Is it Cousin Google or Uncle Google?? 😂 Awesome refurbished tutorial! Great looking textures
"...a tender peck with the tip of my tongue." Best thing I heard all day LOL. Thanks for the laugh buddy.
If you don't already have some... look for a pack of dental picks... specifically dental technician tools... for sculpting small details.
THANK YOU MAN I finnaly got a model IS-2 tank as a christmas gift from my dad and your tutorials help and give confidence!
edit: Not even a fucking day and i broke one piece of the drive wheel. I fucking hate myself, its like caveman level of simple, take plastic thing, put glue, put to the right place. How do i even survive daily?
I would be really interested to see uncle Night Shift make a Gunpla model
... no peace of my mind about using spittle... the best natural... lubricant known to man... & nature..
anyone who says otherwise has either never had a real woman or worked anything mechanical - Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick ROCKS! Miliput is so old school... I'm 58 and have used every putty known to man in pursuit of artistic integrity... and large scale aircraft are my forte so please don't laugh at me and roll your eyes because my better skills and instincts were honed on Tamiya armour as a kid in between aircraft build's... On a differing note, you are a very humorous individual... these forums need more attitudes like your's. My kindest regards to you :)
Quick tip: DO NOT BUY MR PUTTY. It dries in seconds and behaves like mucous.
Hey Uncle Night Shift, you said you've found these chisels on Ebay. You've got a link for them? Thx
Uncle Night Shift, what size etching do you put into the weld seams? 1 mm, 1.5mm ? Thanks!
Fantastic info! I am into 40k and making little goblin tanks so this is HUGELY helpful!
Uh oh... Night shift is going German on us
Quick question - will mr. surfacer 500 do the same job as putty with acetone?
Regarding welding patterns you are absolutely right. If there is no more possibility or other reason to twist the part you are welding, it is actually done just as you described in the position it is in, thus needing the different techniques.
Oh boy, the biggest kitty.... I haven't built any model in almost 15 years, but when I do I'll send you the pics so you can see how bad things can get XD
Hello! I am about to use these techniques for the first time and I was wondering what's a good way to clean a brush after applying the diluted tamiya putty?
awesome guide, I think techniques mentioned here will even help with FDM printerd tank :D
I hate how big this looks on video. Here I am coming back to tanks after a hiatus with starships and planes. I picked up a Meng Panther ausf D, was all about replacing the welds, and realized just how small the details you add, are.
I mainly use Vallejo Plastic Putty, can it work the same way Tamiya's Putty does to simulate that kind of texture?
I am currently building an old italeri Elefant. I guess it is the right model to try out these techniques since the welding seams are awful! does standard epoxy putty do the job? Thanks!
Night shift would you have a link for the chisels. Cheers mate
GREAT video my friend!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
I just can't seem o find the Yongli scribers....Do anyone know where i can get them?
I seem to have problems getting Tamiya Epoxy Putty in the UK so have tried to do weld seams with Miliput but it just doesn't seem to work the same way.
Night shift: I have gotten excellent results with vallyjo putty thinned with water,(for armor texture).
Martin would it help to put some CA glue in the weld bead ruts to keep them front lifting out? Mine always come out
Good day night shift - great videos by the way - any chance you can put a link up for the scarpers you brought - it would be really helpful as goggle bless gives a thousand options - thank you in advance
Any modeler that says they don't use spit to moisten their sculpting tools or to sharpen their brushes is a filthy liar! We all do it! 😛🖌
oooh fun a jagdtiger
If anyone finds a place to buy Mortise Chisels that are same sizes at the ones in his video, can you post a link. I have had zero luck finding anything.
Hi, could you tell me the name of the engraving chisels that you are using? Thanks!
I miss the old white background
Edit: i lick my brushes before dipping them in paint for dry brush, it makes them wet but not too wet (i know it has to be dry but i find a litle moisture to help)
Thank you for sharing your modeling techniques. I am a beginner and it is a pleasure to learn and be able to put these new skills to use. They make my projects look so much more defined and interesting. Keep it up. I continue to follow your content. I am aware of your revised direction and want to encourage You to do what works for you and fits and feels right.
The back end of the Tamiya scriber is just like a chisel. Not the best, but works.
Hey look... you can treat your tools the way you want! If you love them that much, we're not here to judge!
Yes! I can build a kit with you, I have the Takom jagtiger
So... When do the Warhammer 40k tanks _"roll out"_ ???
😁
@OriginalYithian or hell, even a Rhino?
Is it sad that last week I felt off not having a night shift video. Its become part of my Friday morning routine
Well, now you'll be getting some very long and in depth videos in the upcoming weeks :)
Will Tamiya cement work well for armour texturing aswell?
Such a tinder tongue tickle, I just works! Lol
Hi! Could you tell us the brand os the scriber you are using, pelase?
Very very helpful, is the tamiya putty preferable over MIliput?