Fundamentals of Blacksmithing - Drawing out
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2024
- Taking a closer look at the fundamentals of blacksmithing with drawing out square bar into three common tapers.
Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/JohnSwitzer
This video recorded using -
Canon EOS R Mirrorless Camera - adorama.rfvk.net/J50gq
Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L Lens - adorama.rfvk.net/6bb7yV
Rode Wireless Go II microphone - www.adorama.com/rdwigoii.html
If you enjoy my content here in TH-cam shorts please visit my other 2 channels
Black bear Forge - / blackbearforge
featuring blacksmithing tutorials
OR
John Switzer - / johnswitzer
Featuring more vlog type content outside of the shop - บันเทิง
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 71 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ทรงชัยน้อย vs รักษ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_AGPnq2p6Js/mqdefault.jpg)
Always the best :) Drawing out is used almost in every blacksmithing projects :)
Very true!
Just wanted to pause and say that I love the work that you do sir. I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos, and am utilizing your Blacksmithing on a budget list, along with some of your other videos, to begin my journey. I am going to be retiring from the military within the next year, so I wanted to begin the next journey. I believe metal, in all of its possibility, is the way I will be proceeding. Thank you again.
Nice addition to your video library of smithing techniques, and thanks for sharing it.
Very basic skill but so important. Make a leaf thats the first thing i learnt👍👍🔥🔥
Great job with excellent information John, thanks for sharing with us. Stay safe and keep having fun. Fred. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Grate information John , drawing out was and some times still is my night mare . :)
I've got this. My weakness is a repeatable upset in the center of multiple bars. A video on that technique would be appreciated.
🐾🔥⚒
Mid bar upsets are hard to control
@@BlackBearForgeII
Even a 'split bar 1/4 twist basket' is tricky to make repeatedly for something like a four foot wide gate. I needed 12 for that gate to be code compliant. If I remember correctly, I picked the best 12 out of approximately 18. Sixty six percent matching isn't a very good accomplishment for a day long endeavor. Glad it didn't have to have pineapple finials! 🐾🔥⚒🍍
Flat taper doubles, Square taper triples, a round taper increases by Pi (3.14)
The Flat taper doubles because you halved the material thickness. Square taper only triples because you halve it in 2 directions (from the starting dimension) And round is only a smidge longer because you're knocking the corners in but not really reducing the material by that much.
Thanks
Great newbe vid. Thanks John.
I mean this in the best possible way...this guy is exactly like my Papa...precise, exacting, wants to (maybe) tell you straight up how to do it, but it's best if you figure it out mostly trying on your own (usually in a freezing cold place). Learning is a curve, and Bear and Papa teach far more this way. Major respect for this.
"Remember that smooth taper on the blade last July?"
" Yes!"
"I don't either."
Cutting and busting your knuckles will be far more helpful than anything else on your road. Follow this expert and know that, regardless of ouches, you will be light years ahead of other smiths.
Very interesting!! Thank you.
Hello John
Thank you for your little class and this teachfull Video
Have a good week all best wishes
Yours Frank Galetzka
Very cool. Thanks.
Great tips thank you for what you do.
My pleasure!
Love it! Understanding these building blocks makes it so smiths can formulate there own solutions. Please make more!
Just found this channel. I'm hooked
For the draw out lengths, look at the volumes of a cone vs a cylinder, or a pyramid vs a cuboid (area of the base * height * 1/3 for the pyramids and cone, vs area of the base * height for the cuboid and cylinder)
So 3 times the length for double tapers
Of course you'll end up somewhat short of that with a blunt end compared to a sharpish point.
Hi John, I was wondering if you were going to finish this series? I am just starting out and find these really useful but there isn't one for the forge welding. Thank you so much for the amazing content!
Mathematically , the ratio of taper length to original length , should be 6/(pi*w) , where w is the width of the (square) bar stock . ( derived from the volume of a cone formula )
Volume of rectangular block (LxWxD) must equal volume of square base pyramid ((LxWxD)/3)
Easiest way to make those two equations balance would be to multiply one of the numbers by 3 on the right side, and length is what he is doing in the forge and with his anvil and hammer, so by definition it should go from 3 inches to 9 inches if he angled the taper perfectly without material loss (scaling, etc)
8.75 inches is perfectly reasonable for handcrafted and I would be hard pressed to find a better job.
Now as for the round taper.... that is quite a bit more complicated and the formula requires more trigonometry than I can recall from memory.
As for the flat taper, we'll done sir, exactly correct. An actual triangle of half the volume essentially cut off one side and added to the end. (Technically two, one on either side starting at bottom edge and going up to one quarter the into the piece, then both rotated over, connecting their flat edges to the end and each other) and mathematically should be twice the length.
Admittedly, you aren't cutting and welding, but hammering the hot metal into new shape, but the outcome would still be relatively equal.
❤️❤️❤️
hey...I'm going to subscribe and use your channel to get my understanding and background knowledge in blacksmithing....hope you don't mind
Im hoping you can end up seeing this, and maybe answer my question if you have time.
Why isn't there a hardy tool specifically for drawing out steel? Like drawing dies for a press. Ive been looking for something under that description. I've seen fullers, but I don't feel like they quite fit that description.
Because I'm coming from making knives with high alloy, and just now moving towards blacksmithing (for a few reasons), I'm new to blacksmithing. So maybe there's tools I still don't know about that, are common knowledge.
What do you think is better, depending on the application, shouldering before or after making a taper.?
Quick question I just started blacksmithing and we started with making a letter opener. Whenever I make the square taper it always becomes a fish mouth. I was wondering where are you exactly hitting the metal so I can prevent fish mouths. I was also told not to hit it when its cold.
I see that is why I couldn't draw my piece out I was only using the face of my anvil not the horn
Hey John great video. I really would like to know where you got the # for draw out length. As a new Smith I struggle sometimes getting there. Thanks
So far I Haven't been able to find it
Mathematically, I agree with the single and double tapers. rounding, I suspect, is a lot closer to the double while adding a third taper to make a triangle (45x45x90) makes sense to double the length again to 8x the initial length.
@@BlackBearForgeII John I found this on a fourm, not sure this is what you meant
Basic geometry. L x W x H = (n) for square and rectangular, and Pi x R2 x L = (n) for round. (n) is the resulting answer. These are the formula's to determine the volume, use the numbers for the end result you want, then take the (n) and use it along with the dimensions of the starting stock in these formulas: (n)/W/H=L for square or rectangular stock, and (n)/Pi/R2=L
@@fouledanchorforge5223 yeah, right
Hey, I have a quick question.
When flattening out a piece of round stock (5/8" rebar in this case), what would cause it to develop a banana-like bend to the left or right as it thins and flattens out?
I was only hitting the stock with the hammer on one side, never turning it over 180° to hit the other side, if that's of any help.
The grain of the material perhaps? And also the uneven spiral causing tension around the bar?
Something to practice, once my anvil is mounted. Is there a good width factor for free standing anvil stumps?
Small enough its not in the way and large enough it doesn't tip over. I usually go with a rectangular block the size of the anvil base
Thanks John! Seems I am on the slender side (21x9x9 " with 130# anvil on top) but just in the ballpark. I wasn't pleased with the stability and will add another layer to the stump.
I sometimes end up with my edges out of square, and when I hit it with the hammer it wants to twist, instead of pounding back square. Any advice?
I tried to forge a spork from round stock and ended up folding over :(
Is there a certain size the point should remain during the repeated heating so that it doesn't burn off.
Just enough that you don't burn it off. Which depends a lot on the forge
Are you sure that a square taper should be 4 times the length? I was expecting 3 time the base length and 3.5 times for the round taper.
You may be correct, since I didn't achieve the 4X stretch. I wish I new what source I was thinking of
When I draw a taper the point splits often, what am I doing wrong?
Working to cold possibly or simply overworking the material
I think it's 3x for the square...
could be
Volume of rectangular block (LxWxD) must equal volume of square base pyramid ((LxWxD)/3)
Easiest way to make those two equations balance would be to multiply one of the numbers by 3 on the right side, and length is what he is doing in the forge and with his anvil and hammer, so by definition it should go from 3 inches to 9 inches if he angled the taper perfectly without material loss.
There’s many ways to do something; with that being said, good rounded corners on a section of the face works great. It can also get very aggressive depending on the hammer and contact point used. I’m skeptical of doing heavy work on the horn since I have a wrought iron bodied anvil.
Traducirlo todo al
Castellano o Español
................
You lost me at taking a triangle, flipping, cutting, doubling, smothered and scattered all the way…😂
Le problème,c'est la langue.Les américains s'imaginent que tout le monde parle anglais.En plus,il est très bavard
Incorrect. Mais je ne parle pas français non plus. Avec un public principalement anglophone, c'est la meilleure langue et les explications détaillées sont la raison pour laquelle les gens aiment mes vidéos.
Looks easy......it's not. Lol