You have an absolutely fantastic channel - tons of techniques I've never seen elsewhere and fantastic presentation techniques! Thank you very much for taking the time to share.
Hi: Thanks, I know a lot of the odd old methods and try to present the simplest example.Why show stuff that uses equipment that nobody can make or find? Daniel
Hi: The background metal has to be harder than the inlay, otherwise it would not lock into the back of the inlay metal. So fine or pure gold would work on copper. Fine , .999 annealed silver could work on copper , but that would be close to an even hardness value. Brass and bronze are a lot harder than copper, you could inlay copper on brass or bronze but not the other way round. Daniel Tokar
Thankyou for uploading this one. I've been only partially successful trying to inlay copper and brass onto historic anglo saxon blades, however by just laying a piece of brass or copper over the punched design on the blade and putting the whole thing carefully into the forge. I've found when the blade is orange/yellow the non-ferrous metals will beautifully melt into the designs but only partially, and there's also a bit of waste this way too having to grind and sand off the blade afterwards. Have had no joy trying the hammering in method by then hadn't tried it the way you've demonstrated. Was feeling pretty frustrated earlier after again an only partial success with a really good looking langseax blade I'm currently working on, however feel inspired again to try your method tomorrow!
Great technique, never thought such great bond between copper/brass and steel can be achieved.
Every video in this series takes me up another level! THANK YOU!!! I subscribed after the first one I saw.
Had to re-visit this for a future project, thanks again for the technique.
You have an absolutely fantastic channel - tons of techniques I've never seen elsewhere and fantastic presentation techniques! Thank you very much for taking the time to share.
Hi:
Thanks, I know a lot of the odd old methods and try to present the simplest example.Why show stuff that uses equipment that nobody can make or find?
Daniel
@@danieltokar1000thank you sir for sharing. Highly appreciated. Cape town South Africa
@@danieltokar1000definitely gonna subscribe
That, was amazing! Well done Sir. 😀⚒️👍
Thank you uncle 🤍 God Bless you🙏
Excellent demonstration! I very well may use this technique in the near future! Thank you Sir.
Like, on a muzzle loader, perhaps? 😉😉
drasons forge Maybe...Quite possibly...Most probably.
such a useful technique
What if I wanted to put bronze or brass lettering into a copper blade, is that the same?
Hi:
The background metal has to be harder than the inlay, otherwise it would not lock into the back of the inlay metal. So fine or pure gold would work on copper. Fine , .999 annealed silver could work on copper , but that would be close to an even hardness value. Brass and bronze are a lot harder than copper, you could inlay copper on brass or bronze but not the other way round.
Daniel Tokar
Hi Daniel,
Thank you for your response; noted.
I look forward to learning more from you.
Thankyou for uploading this one. I've been only partially successful trying to inlay copper and brass onto historic anglo saxon blades, however by just laying a piece of brass or copper over the punched design on the blade and putting the whole thing carefully into the forge. I've found when the blade is orange/yellow the non-ferrous metals will beautifully melt into the designs but only partially, and there's also a bit of waste this way too having to grind and sand off the blade afterwards. Have had no joy trying the hammering in method by then hadn't tried it the way you've demonstrated. Was feeling pretty frustrated earlier after again an only partial success with a really good looking langseax blade I'm currently working on, however feel inspired again to try your method tomorrow!