Thanks for the useful information; I collect bills from all over Italy, and often I have to face a careful restoration. My equipment is similar to yours, like the way to deal with the security issue. To keep the billhooks sharp and rust-free, I build thin plywood sheaths, also so as not to injure myself when I put my collection away. I have to build a belt hook like yours, I hope not to infringe any patent!
Glad you like the belt I call it a cradle and although I glimpsed something similar in a hedgeing competition I made one myself but more simpler and it in so effective. Tips! Use 4mm hardrawn wire that is quite hard to bend but stays in shape. Follow the pattern by observing the video closely, then see if you can get a similar belt with an adjusting buckle so that you can thread the cradle through the adjuster to hold it firmly in place. If you get it right then you will treasure it for life! Regards, Cliff
Thanks for taking the time to make this informative film. I've found most old Billhooks when you get them are as sharp as butter knives, often the bevel is too steep or rounded. When sharp like yours they are a good efficient tool. The tang should also go through the handle full length to secure the handle with a peened over end and washer. I saw on you tube one tang being ground off short and handle glued with epoxy glue, disaster in my eyes, also ruining a good tool. The 1942 hedging film is a classic !
On Ebay. Look out for "Starke" sandpaper, they sell it singly or as a package with sheets from 600grit to 6000. I have made a video on how to make sandpaper files and in it there is an indication of how to use them. Regards, Cliff
Hello Cliff a pleasure watching you, nice to see some common sense at last. Billhook usage on You Tube is usually a knowledge vacuum. Some of the purported "restorations" make me cringe. I agree these are working tools, potentially dangerous, so it's important to know what they're intended for, how to use them properly and how to look after them. As you say they're not toys to play with in the woods (everybody has the same main arteries running down the inside of their legs) . Nice you've got your Dads felling / de-legging axe (looks like an Elwell No 7). Also think you've got a Newtown pattern hook, but I can't be sure which pattern you've got for your Brades. One point I would disagree is having a gloved tool hand - Ever. Direct contact with an unvarnished wooden handle always more reliable, even in the wet. As to blade guards I use old hose pipe kept in place with old bicycle inner tube retainers. A round diamond file is really useful for running round the hook blade for sharpening once it's had the shoulders and angle of cut already reduced. (Master Hedgelayer 20yrs +)
Great information. For camping I have an ax & a hatchet but have been thinking of getting a billhook as it looks like a good tool for some smaller or finer tasks. I notice yours has less a hook, is that because it's newer or are there different styles of them? Thank you.
No. None are made without the hook, so what you see is the billhook. The one I have was modified to use it without the hook and this is explained in one of my previous videos, "Using a billhook" that I am sure you will find very interesting and explanitary. Regards, Cliff
The red tape around the ferrule is there as a "flag" because it makes it easier for me to find it if I put it down in the woodlland, but you are right the ferrule is a little loose, and well spotted!
I see as many videos where they recommend sharpening the axe toward the blade end vs away from the blade as done here. I don’t know which is better. Toward the blade isn’t as safe mind you, but it seems to remove more steel? Any advice?
not sure how i stumbled across this but a pleasure listening and learning from you sir.
My new favorite channel.
Thanks, really enjoyed that and learnt a lot 😀
Thanks for the useful information; I collect bills from all over Italy, and often I have to face a careful restoration. My equipment is similar to yours, like the way to deal with the security issue. To keep the billhooks sharp and rust-free, I build thin plywood sheaths, also so as not to injure myself when I put my collection away. I have to build a belt hook like yours, I hope not to infringe any patent!
Glad you like the belt
I call it a cradle and although I glimpsed something similar in a hedgeing competition I made one myself but more simpler and it in so effective.
Tips! Use 4mm hardrawn wire that is quite hard to bend but stays in shape. Follow the pattern by observing the video closely, then see if you can get a similar belt with an adjusting buckle so that you can thread the cradle through the adjuster to hold it firmly in place. If you get it right then you will treasure it for life!
Regards, Cliff
Thanks for taking the time to make this informative film. I've found most old Billhooks when you get them are as sharp as butter knives, often the bevel is too steep or rounded. When sharp like yours they are a good efficient tool. The tang should also go through the handle full length to secure the handle with a peened over end and washer.
I saw on you tube one tang being ground off short and handle glued with epoxy glue, disaster in my eyes, also ruining a good tool.
The 1942 hedging film is a classic !
On Ebay. Look out for "Starke" sandpaper, they sell it singly or as a package with sheets from 600grit to 6000. I have made a video on how to make sandpaper files and in it there is an indication of how to use them. Regards, Cliff
Very informative. In my moments of extreme clarity though, Im forced to admit, that Im probably exactly the kind of man youd refere to as a "prick"
Flatting the handle great idea.
Had my handle replaced professionally 40 years ago always made the tool ungainly now i can sort it 👍🏼
Hello Cliff a pleasure watching you, nice to see some common sense at last. Billhook usage on You Tube is usually a knowledge vacuum. Some of the purported "restorations" make me cringe. I agree these are working tools, potentially dangerous, so it's important to know what they're intended for, how to use them properly and how to look after them. As you say they're not toys to play with in the woods (everybody has the same main arteries running down the inside of their legs) . Nice you've got your Dads felling / de-legging axe (looks like an Elwell No 7). Also think you've got a Newtown pattern hook, but I can't be sure which pattern you've got for your Brades. One point I would disagree is having a gloved tool hand - Ever. Direct contact with an unvarnished wooden handle always more reliable, even in the wet. As to blade guards I use old hose pipe kept in place with old bicycle inner tube retainers. A round diamond file is really useful for running round the hook blade for sharpening once it's had the shoulders and angle of cut already reduced. (Master Hedgelayer 20yrs +)
Nicely made billhook holder 👍🇬🇧from Northern England
Very good video very informative
Good solid advice 👍
Great information. For camping I have an ax & a hatchet but have been thinking of getting a billhook as it looks like a good tool for some smaller or finer tasks. I notice yours has less a hook, is that because it's newer or are there different styles of them? Thank you.
No. None are made without the hook, so what you see is the billhook. The one I have was modified to use it without the hook and this is explained in one of my previous videos, "Using a billhook" that I am sure you will find very interesting and explanitary. Regards, Cliff
Decently sharp Billhook,but with a loose handle/ferrule,GREAT.
The red tape around the ferrule is there as a "flag" because it makes it easier for me to find it if I put it down in the woodlland, but you are right the ferrule is a little loose, and well spotted!
I see as many videos where they recommend sharpening the axe toward the blade end vs away from the blade as done here. I don’t know which is better. Toward the blade isn’t as safe mind you, but it seems to remove more steel? Any advice?
Away from the edge every time! It is called, leaving the edge, Regards, Cliff
Thanks for your excellent tutorial. Where did you buy the Silicon Carbide sandpaper? From a shop or online? Thanks.
On Ebay. Look out for a package containing sheets from 600grit to 6 thousand grit, wet and dry, made by "Starke".
Trust this helps. Cliff
What glove do you recomend for safty?
What would the technique be for sharpening a Suffolk billhook with a flat edge on one side?
Presumably just use a triangular metal file on the flat side?
@@Selectronify Thanks Cliff. That's very clear. Cheers.
Absolutely brilliant video thank you very much sir subscribe thumbs up
😊👍
It’s a ‘maul’.👍🏾
Pistol grip billock handle.