Glad the video helped. Its a common issue, happens more often on highway driven cars I think. The 450 does not have anything keeping the water & salt out of the bellhousing. A loose fitting around shaft rubber gromet siliconed in housing might help to keep components from rusting & wearing pre-maturely. On the Smart 451 the clutch actuator shaft has a rubber boot on it to seal up the hole in the bellhousing. I guess could probable take the rubber boot from a 451 & make it work on a 450.
@@manbuilds1587 Well, I got the actuator off and looked inside. The plate was still good , no hole. So, it’s either the actuator or the clutch. I’m still gonna do what you did when I reinstall, withe the nut on the end.👍
When I bought mine it’s an 06 Cabrio. It never shifted quite right, and it was always a hard shift and finally one of my buddy was parting out one of the smart cars he had like four of them he gave me one of the shift actuators to try, and that was the problem the shift actuator shifts like butter now the car shift, so smooth and I had my old one apart and greased it and tried everything but nope just wouldn’t work, right
Bonjours super vidéo la mienne a 3 barre au tableau de bord elle demare pas et quand elle et sûr neutre impossible de la pousser elle et bloquer sur place
So the actuator has two bolts that lets you push the whole assembly forward and back i did not know this could that be similiar to adjust a clutch pedal as its wearing down? By chance what size were the two bolts?
i have 3 lines on dash and glow plug light on, happened to come on at same time… I am going wait for the car to dry out with battery disconnected as it was soaking wet from hitting big puddle. i know clutch actuator and glow plug are different problems but have the p0380 error code and won’t clear with my computer
Got the same issue, had to tow it home. Has your fixe lasted - has the rod punched thru once more? So, a 12 mm flange nut. But I have no welder. I was thinking of epoxying the nut to the shaft, since it’s only pushing. Any thoughts if this could work? Many thanks.
Yes It only pushes but the shaft is not tight all the time. Best is to weld it or thread the nut on the shaft if have a tap & die set. Could grind tip to right size to take correct size die for threads. Jb weld probable best epoxy, they make a putty that mush up & makes a pretty strong bond. If you have 2 car batteries & 2 sets jumper cables you could weld with that. Use a small diametre welding rod & that should do it to keep it on there. Just a thought. Make sure protect your eyes. Yes the fix has lasted 40k km so far.
@@manbuilds1587 tapping seems to make most sense at this point. You mention you rounded the tip of the nut, to get a better contact area, right? Glad to know your fix has lasted this long, but I don’t understand why the hole sorta stays the same size over time. You would think it would open up further with use.. but then, if it works and there are few other options, I’m not complaining. Hey thanks for the tips and just plain responding - I feel confident this may work. Have a good one and best of luck with the car.
Thank you for your efforts. Good Video. I have 3 bars on my display and nothing works (neither shifting gears, nor starting car). I checked the arm on my clutch and it seem to be ok (not worn). I removed the actuator and tried to clean and regrease it (in closed condition). But now when I try to install it, the long actuation-bolt is too far out. I am wondering because in your video, you have no issues to re-install it. I can't install it back because it dosn't fit in that condition. Is there a reason, why my Car has driven the actuation-bolt that far out? Any idea? Or was it the same with yours and you pushed it back in (however).
I had trouble to install the actuator in video. If you watch I had to press real hard to get it to go in far enough to install the bolts. My rod was too far out also. had to push against the clutch pressure plate spring, pushed the clutch in because that was the position the actuator punched through & was stuck.
thats what operates your clutch. thats how works. the actuator bolt comes out & pushes against the little lever inside & that pushes against the clutch pressure plate to realease the clutch. The clutch actuator has 2 positions, in & out. Yours had trouble in the out position.
not supposed to do this but if its too hard to push in against the spring & bolt in place. You could make sure the car is in neutral & plug it back in since its already in the out position. put a little force on it & turn the key on & it might reset back in place so can be installed easily. Just dont shift out of neutral untill its bolted back in place.
@@manbuilds1587 Not sure whether I have a different issue. My car is not reacting at all. So even if I manually push the rod in, as soon as I install the actuator back, the bolt drives out and never comes back in. Even if I turn off the ignition, the bolt remains out. I heard from another person that the bolt has to move when switchting the ignition. My actuator's bolt only knows one direction "out" and seems to remain on that. However. Shifting gears have no effect at all. The actuator only drives one time out and don't moves again (until I uninstall it and manually push the bar in).
Whhen I start my Smart, sometimes it has difficulty engaging drive, and I feel the actuator banging several times but without successfully engaging the gear. Many times, I have to turn off the Smart and turn it back on to finally succeed in engaging the gear. Is there any solution to this?"
Possible your actuator is getting weak or sticking. Banging several times is the transmission trying to shift into gear with the gears not able to move & mesh freely. Could be your clutch actuator is not actuating fast enough. Or it has slid back & is out of adjustment. Suggest spray some penetrating oil in the actuator internals & chech adjustment. That is my guess.
Could try jack 1 wheel & push the brake when shift to neutral. Releases pressure on transmission if gear jammed. Could try rocking the car ahead & back to try spool the gears to let shift to neutral. The clutch actuators on the 451 are a weak point, might need replace if the clutch is not being released. Could try take apart actuator & add some grease to see if will start wprking again. Loosen bolts on clutch actuator & slide it in closer towards transmission. Could be out of adjustment & not dis-engaging clutch fully. Thats all I got.
Guess you figured out by now that the whip has to be fairly straight for a mig welder because the wire doesn’t wanna push through if the whip is kinked and if you tighten the feed wheels too much, you’re gonna wind up with bird nest inside the welder so that’s not the answer either so Gonna treat a welder, a small one, with TLC
Hopefully you can help me. I went to a gas station. They put gas instead of diesel. I never started the car. Sent it to Mercedes. They said they fixed it. Was able to drive home. Went to start the next day and wont start. Now on dash is one bar.not 3. Any suggestions? Thanks
@@manbuilds1587 no car ran great . Lots of new parts. Plus i bought even extra alternator ect just to have. I replace battery every year.air filter. Oil an transmission fluid changes. If i thought something might be wrong i got it replaced. When i turn the key to number one. Its shows im in neutral or reverse ect. Then goes to one line across. Doesnt even show km. My sam unit has no corrosion. Its stored in garage in winter.
Try disconnect the battery over night. I never had that issue. looks some people have the one bar happen after mercedes hooks it up to star scanner. They probable plugged in to scanner & used it to run the fuel pump for a bit to make sure no gas in the system. Maybe? One bar indicates CAN (data bus) malfunction. Could be some kind recurring error in computer due to being messed with. Might just need reset. Check out this link. clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/20955-can-data-bus-error-wont-start/ Evilution has wiring diagram that shows the wires that could cause this fault if there is a short or broken wire some where. But try disconect battery overnight or an hour or so with key on so the charge to dissipated www.evilution.co.uk/?s=CAN+bus
Had my clutch acctuator replaced apparently. Had it back 2 weeks still got the same problem jerky trans wont find reverse. Must be the clutch right? Is it worth it getting it done or scrapping it ?
If the clutch disengages properly when it comes to stop & holds when acceleration then it is not the clutch. If the clutch is grabbing when come to a stop then adjust clutch actuator in farther so it depress the clutch farther so it doesnt grab when come to a stop & make it hard to shift into gears. possible the actuator is slid too far back. Make sure car in neutral turn key off. loosen 3 bolts on actuator & slide all the way in towards transmission. see if makes a difference. Smart 450 has manual adjustment 451 adjusts itself. Clutches do not wear & grab more, they wear & grab less untill they are not grabbing at all. Could be weak gear selector at back of transmission. Is good idea to change transmission oil even thoigh mercedes says oil is good for life of car. I think it helps to keep car shifting well.
@@manbuilds1587 yeah it does hold but the shifts are so far and few between. it slips at third or so. Turn ignition off. Starts fine. Recognises auto then it dont its massivly jerky. Been serviced and looked after. Im no mechanic in asking for a second oppinon .
If clutch actuator is all the way back & out of room to adjust it back then clutch could be grabbing & making hard to shift gears because clutch never really disengages & hard to put in & out of gear. To shift gears the transmission has multiple motor driven gear selectors. Its possible same shifting motor shifts for 3rd & reverse & is weak. I havent had any of those apart to know what sticks in there or which motor is the one more prone to sticking. Shift motors ar an external part. Can be accessed with out removing transmission. Might be cheaper than clutch, if thats the issue. Could see if find a fortwo at a self serve auto wrecker & pull off parts needed, learn how comes apart & repair. Dealer repair & parts are expensive. dont scrap it someone wants that car, especially with high fuel prices :)
20:15 is that roaming sound of not accepting gears i have that on my smart and cant accept first gear it accepts in 3k rmps and bau cars off like on manual car when you disangage clutch fast and dont add gas and its turn off car? Is it bcs of actuator cant accept gear??
If you have a Smart 450 Probable is the clutch not being dis-engaged fully. Maybe clutch dragging & transmission still spinning with engine makes for hard shifting if any. If clutch still engaged then it wont shift out of gear even sometimes, so when com to a stop the car will die instead of disengaging from transmission. Could try adjusting clutch actuator ahead to depress clutch in further. Might solve issue.
Check out other vid "Smart Fortwo Cdi Stuck Clutch Actuator". Could be the actuator is sticking also. Mine had similar issue I think as yours at one time.
C'est un code pour le système evap. pas sire comment le système evap fonctionne sur une smart. Apparemment il y a une pompe et une électrovanne. Très probablement, la petite vanne est coincée ouverte ou fermée. Le système evap élimine les vapeurs du réservoir de carburant et les laisse s'écouler dans le moteur pour être brûlées au lieu de s'évacuer dans l'atmosphère. Avez-vous un smart cdi ou une essence? Je ne suis pas sûr qu'un cdi ait le même système, je n'ai pas rencontré de cdi mais j'ai eu des problèmes avec d'autres systèmes d'évacuation de véhicules à essence. généralement en hiver. la voiture roule pareil ?
most likely same issue, the car in the video had same 3 bars show up on dash. 3 bars come on when it has a fault shifting. Most likely clutch actuator issue but could also be a one of the electric motors to shift trans into & out of gear, but that is not a common issue. The bars could also possible show up if the car is on a steep incline & it was shut off in gear, so when it is turned back on the weight of the car is holding it in gear & will not let it shift out of gear. In that case just need some one to push the car forward or back to relieve the weight holding the transmission in gear while turning key on with the car shifter in neutral position. Hope you just parked it on a hill :) haha
The diagnostic test shows that the gears are jammed. I was thinking to buy a new clutch kit & gear actuator change those and the problem should be fixed. I'm not sure if any of it will need programming?
@@STYLEY_TV Diagnostic test? did you take it to a dealership. Careful, they may sell you alot of parts not needed. Like clutch & actuator kit, plus a gear selector. When all it needs is clutch actuator or throw out bearimg yoke. Those are just parts to change out, shouldn't need any programing, smart car is not that fancy. Car will put selector in proper gear when turn on key. I would just change the gear selector motor that is weak or sticking if thats the case & new transmission oil. Car will have jammed gears if clutch is not being depressed also, same fault only the one fault code could be multiple issue. Suggest check clutch actuator first if have not already. Could take apart gear selector & lube it up, maybe. If the clutch was ok then could leave the clutch for another day, just a thought. Depends on what issue is. if actuator punched through yoke like in video, could do the quick fix or to change the yoke have to pull transmission then might as well change clutch.
@@manbuilds1587 yes I had a mechanic run a diagnostic test he said the gears jammed. The car starts and engine runs but it won't select gears the car also feels like it wants to move I was told due to my mileage being at 55,000 I would need a new clutch and gear actuator. The craziest thing is when the back passenger wheel was removed to get to the actuator,while the car was at a angle in the air while on the jack the car went into gear and when rev 'ed the wheels would spin as soon as it had the back wheel on and removed the jack. It wouldn't select?
Its a manual transmission that shifts gears automatically. Thats why I made videos. They can be really good cars with a little work. If take to Mercedes for a repair they can be really expensive to repair.
![มองหน้ากันไม่ติด (Awkward) - โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์ FEAT. MAIYARAP [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4b02SY_r6Gw/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video, it’s a stratifying feeling to solve a problem 🎉
thanks bro your video help me too much my smart is ready again
I love it. Way to be thinking.
Good Job!!
Thanks for this video, my 2005 450 went out.
Glad the video helped. Its a common issue, happens more often on highway driven cars I think. The 450 does not have anything keeping the water & salt out of the bellhousing. A loose fitting around shaft rubber gromet siliconed in housing might help to keep components from rusting & wearing pre-maturely. On the Smart 451 the clutch actuator shaft has a rubber boot on it to seal up the hole in the bellhousing. I guess could probable take the rubber boot from a 451 & make it work on a 450.
@@manbuilds1587 I hope my isn’t ruined, I just looked under, and the boot has slid and stuck on the shaft. Hole is wide open. Poor design
@@manbuilds1587 Well, I got the actuator off and looked inside. The plate was still good , no hole. So, it’s either the actuator or the clutch. I’m still gonna do what you did when I reinstall, withe the nut on the end.👍
When I bought mine it’s an 06 Cabrio. It never shifted quite right, and it was always a hard shift and finally one of my buddy was parting out one of the smart cars he had like four of them he gave me one of the shift actuators to try, and that was the problem the shift actuator shifts like butter now the car shift, so smooth and I had my old one apart and greased it and tried everything but nope just wouldn’t work, right
nice work!
Thanks, I seen photos online of other guys repairing in a similar way before attemping repair. I used what was available.
Bonjours super vidéo la mienne a 3 barre au tableau de bord elle demare pas et quand elle et sûr neutre impossible de la pousser elle et bloquer sur place
clutch is not letting the gears spool freely. could rock it or push in clutch with screw driver to move it.
@@manbuilds1587 merci infiniment 👍🏼
So the actuator has two bolts that lets you push the whole assembly forward and back i did not know this could that be similiar to adjust a clutch pedal as its wearing down? By chance what size were the two bolts?
I got the 3 dashes too but my actuator i hear and see it move what could it be?
i have 3 lines on dash and glow plug light on, happened to come on at same time…
I am going wait for the car to dry out with battery disconnected as it was soaking wet from hitting big puddle.
i know clutch actuator and glow plug are different problems but have the p0380 error code and won’t clear with my computer
Got the same issue, had to tow it home.
Has your fixe lasted - has the rod punched thru once more?
So, a 12 mm flange nut. But I have no welder. I was thinking of epoxying the nut to the shaft, since it’s only pushing. Any thoughts if this could work?
Many thanks.
Yes It only pushes but the shaft is not tight all the time. Best is to weld it or thread the nut on the shaft if have a tap & die set. Could grind tip to right size to take correct size die for threads.
Jb weld probable best epoxy, they make a putty that mush up & makes a pretty strong bond.
If you have 2 car batteries & 2 sets jumper cables you could weld with that. Use a small diametre welding rod & that should do it to keep it on there. Just a thought. Make sure protect your eyes.
Yes the fix has lasted 40k km so far.
@@manbuilds1587 tapping seems to make most sense at this point. You mention you rounded the tip of the nut, to get a better contact area, right?
Glad to know your fix has lasted this long, but I don’t understand why the hole sorta stays the same size over time. You would think it would open up further with use.. but then, if it works and there are few other options, I’m not complaining.
Hey thanks for the tips and just plain responding - I feel confident this may work.
Have a good one and best of luck with the car.
I’m thinking, actually threading that shaft and then screwing a nut on with a locknut might’ve been a better solution that way it’s adjustable
Thank you for your efforts. Good Video. I have 3 bars on my display and nothing works (neither shifting gears, nor starting car). I checked the arm on my clutch and it seem to be ok (not worn). I removed the actuator and tried to clean and regrease it (in closed condition). But now when I try to install it, the long actuation-bolt is too far out. I am wondering because in your video, you have no issues to re-install it. I can't install it back because it dosn't fit in that condition. Is there a reason, why my Car has driven the actuation-bolt that far out? Any idea? Or was it the same with yours and you pushed it back in (however).
I had trouble to install the actuator in video. If you watch I had to press real hard to get it to go in far enough to install the bolts. My rod was too far out also. had to push against the clutch pressure plate spring, pushed the clutch in because that was the position the actuator punched through & was stuck.
thats what operates your clutch. thats how works. the actuator bolt comes out & pushes against the little lever inside & that pushes against the clutch pressure plate to realease the clutch. The clutch actuator has 2 positions, in & out. Yours had trouble in the out position.
not supposed to do this but if its too hard to push in against the spring & bolt in place. You could make sure the car is in neutral & plug it back in since its already in the out position. put a little force on it & turn the key on & it might reset back in place so can be installed easily. Just dont shift out of neutral untill its bolted back in place.
make sure unplug it as soon as the rod goes back in, so it stays in & can be installed easily.
@@manbuilds1587 Not sure whether I have a different issue. My car is not reacting at all. So even if I manually push the rod in, as soon as I install the actuator back, the bolt drives out and never comes back in. Even if I turn off the ignition, the bolt remains out. I heard from another person that the bolt has to move when switchting the ignition. My actuator's bolt only knows one direction "out" and seems to remain on that. However. Shifting gears have no effect at all. The actuator only drives one time out and don't moves again (until I uninstall it and manually push the bar in).
Whhen I start my Smart, sometimes it has difficulty engaging drive, and I feel the actuator banging several times but without successfully engaging the gear. Many times, I have to turn off the Smart and turn it back on to finally succeed in engaging the gear. Is there any solution to this?"
Possible your actuator is getting weak or sticking. Banging several times is the transmission trying to shift into gear with the gears not able to move & mesh freely. Could be your clutch actuator is not actuating fast enough. Or it has slid back & is out of adjustment. Suggest spray some penetrating oil in the actuator internals & chech adjustment. That is my guess.
can you help my smart 2008 wont go on park and back wheel is wont turn Jammed
Could try jack 1 wheel & push the brake when shift to neutral. Releases pressure on transmission if gear jammed.
Could try rocking the car ahead & back to try spool the gears to let shift to neutral.
The clutch actuators on the 451 are a weak point, might need replace if the clutch is not being released. Could try take apart actuator & add some grease to see if will start wprking again.
Loosen bolts on clutch actuator & slide it in closer towards transmission. Could be out of adjustment & not dis-engaging clutch fully.
Thats all I got.
Guess you figured out by now that the whip has to be fairly straight for a mig welder because the wire doesn’t wanna push through if the whip is kinked and if you tighten the feed wheels too much, you’re gonna wind up with bird nest inside the welder so that’s not the answer either so Gonna treat a welder, a small one, with TLC
Hopefully you can help me. I went to a gas station. They put gas instead of diesel. I never started the car. Sent it to Mercedes. They said they fixed it. Was able to drive home. Went to start the next day and wont start. Now on dash is one bar.not 3. Any suggestions? Thanks
First time getting the 1 bar with the car?, any other fault codes recent before gas in the tank?
@@manbuilds1587 no car ran great . Lots of new parts. Plus i bought even extra alternator ect just to have. I replace battery every year.air filter. Oil an transmission fluid changes. If i thought something might be wrong i got it replaced. When i turn the key to number one. Its shows im in neutral or reverse ect. Then goes to one line across. Doesnt even show km. My sam unit has no corrosion. Its stored in garage in winter.
Try disconnect the battery over night. I never had that issue. looks some people have the one bar happen after mercedes hooks it up to star scanner. They probable plugged in to scanner & used it to run the fuel pump for a bit to make sure no gas in the system. Maybe?
One bar indicates CAN (data bus) malfunction. Could be some kind recurring error in computer due to being messed with. Might just need reset.
Check out this link.
clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/20955-can-data-bus-error-wont-start/
Evilution has wiring diagram that shows the wires that could cause this fault if there is a short or broken wire some where. But try disconect battery overnight or an hour or so with key on so the charge to dissipated
www.evilution.co.uk/?s=CAN+bus
Had my clutch acctuator replaced apparently. Had it back 2 weeks still got the same problem jerky trans wont find reverse. Must be the clutch right? Is it worth it getting it done or scrapping it ?
If the clutch disengages properly when it comes to stop & holds when acceleration then it is not the clutch. If the clutch is grabbing when come to a stop then adjust clutch actuator in farther so it depress the clutch farther so it doesnt grab when come to a stop & make it hard to shift into gears. possible the actuator is slid too far back. Make sure car in neutral turn key off. loosen 3 bolts on actuator & slide all the way in towards transmission. see if makes a difference. Smart 450 has manual adjustment 451 adjusts itself.
Clutches do not wear & grab more, they wear & grab less untill they are not grabbing at all.
Could be weak gear selector at back of transmission. Is good idea to change transmission oil even thoigh mercedes says oil is good for life of car. I think it helps to keep car shifting well.
@@manbuilds1587 yeah it does hold but the shifts are so far and few between. it slips at third or so. Turn ignition off. Starts fine. Recognises auto then it dont its massivly jerky. Been serviced and looked after. Im no mechanic in asking for a second oppinon .
@@manbuilds1587 59 deisel fourtwo
If clutch actuator is all the way back & out of room to adjust it back then clutch could be grabbing & making hard to shift gears because clutch never really disengages & hard to put in & out of gear.
To shift gears the transmission has multiple motor driven gear selectors. Its possible same shifting motor shifts for 3rd & reverse & is weak. I havent had any of those apart to know what sticks in there or which motor is the one more prone to sticking. Shift motors ar an external part. Can be accessed with out removing transmission. Might be cheaper than clutch, if thats the issue.
Could see if find a fortwo at a self serve auto wrecker & pull off parts needed, learn how comes apart & repair. Dealer repair & parts are expensive.
dont scrap it someone wants that car, especially with high fuel prices :)
Change the clutch. Sounds like clutch from what you said. If its not that then its one of the gear selector motors.
20:15 is that roaming sound of not accepting gears i have that on my smart and cant accept first gear it accepts in 3k rmps and bau cars off like on manual car when you disangage clutch fast and dont add gas and its turn off car? Is it bcs of actuator cant accept gear??
If you have a Smart 450
Probable is the clutch not being dis-engaged fully. Maybe clutch dragging & transmission still spinning with engine makes for hard shifting if any. If clutch still engaged then it wont shift out of gear even sometimes, so when com to a stop the car will die instead of disengaging from transmission. Could try adjusting clutch actuator ahead to depress clutch in further. Might solve issue.
Check out other vid "Smart Fortwo Cdi Stuck Clutch Actuator". Could be the actuator is sticking also. Mine had similar issue I think as yours at one time.
th-cam.com/video/9ktgmrles5c/w-d-xo.html
p2402 c est le code de la diagnostic ? svp je un souci
C'est un code pour le système evap. pas sire comment le système evap fonctionne sur une smart. Apparemment il y a une pompe et une électrovanne. Très probablement, la petite vanne est coincée ouverte ou fermée. Le système evap élimine les vapeurs du réservoir de carburant et les laisse s'écouler dans le moteur pour être brûlées au lieu de s'évacuer dans l'atmosphère. Avez-vous un smart cdi ou une essence? Je ne suis pas sûr qu'un cdi ait le même système, je n'ai pas rencontré de cdi mais j'ai eu des problèmes avec d'autres systèmes d'évacuation de véhicules à essence. généralement en hiver. la voiture roule pareil ?
Had this pop up on my smart today car starts but won't engage gears thre lines on dash board
most likely same issue, the car in the video had same 3 bars show up on dash. 3 bars come on when it has a fault shifting. Most likely clutch actuator issue but could also be a one of the electric motors to shift trans into & out of gear, but that is not a common issue. The bars could also possible show up if the car is on a steep incline & it was shut off in gear, so when it is turned back on the weight of the car is holding it in gear & will not let it shift out of gear. In that case just need some one to push the car forward or back to relieve the weight holding the transmission in gear while turning key on with the car shifter in neutral position. Hope you just parked it on a hill :) haha
The diagnostic test shows that the gears are jammed. I was thinking to buy a new clutch kit & gear actuator change those and the problem should be fixed. I'm not sure if any of it will need programming?
@@STYLEY_TV Diagnostic test? did you take it to a dealership. Careful, they may sell you alot of parts not needed. Like clutch & actuator kit, plus a gear selector. When all it needs is clutch actuator or throw out bearimg yoke.
Those are just parts to change out, shouldn't need any programing, smart car is not that fancy. Car will put selector in proper gear when turn on key. I would just change the gear selector motor that is weak or sticking if thats the case & new transmission oil. Car will have jammed gears if clutch is not being depressed also, same fault only the one fault code could be multiple issue. Suggest check clutch actuator first if have not already. Could take apart gear selector & lube it up, maybe.
If the clutch was ok then could leave the clutch for another day, just a thought. Depends on what issue is. if actuator punched through yoke like in video, could do the quick fix or to change the yoke have to pull transmission then might as well change clutch.
@@manbuilds1587 yes I had a mechanic run a diagnostic test he said the gears jammed. The car starts and engine runs but it won't select gears the car also feels like it wants to move I was told due to my mileage being at 55,000 I would need a new clutch and gear actuator. The craziest thing is when the back passenger wheel was removed to get to the actuator,while the car was at a angle in the air while on the jack the car went into gear and when rev 'ed the wheels would spin as soon as it had the back wheel on and removed the jack. It wouldn't select?
Smart car is stuck in auto
is that a automatic car please i would never buy another f money pit crappest car i ever owned
Its a manual transmission that shifts gears automatically.
Thats why I made videos. They can be really good cars with a little work. If take to Mercedes for a repair they can be really expensive to repair.
Very annoying music to begin with !!!!