It's a really neat car you have. I have left a comment on your last video with a way to check the ECU for your fault. The kind of freezer spray is for specifically for finding electrical faults like this item: cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/33182/freezer-2-400ml/dp/SA03520?st=freezer%20spray
Can anybody help me out I'm thinking about buying a 07 Mini Cooper but it had some water come up about 2in in the floorboard and it won't start any ideas what it could be
I have an R52 for a convertible S 2007 and I can't get the green plug on the BCM to come loose. Is there a trick to it or does it slide or just pull off ??
very great video however according to the pin out the ATM43D-446778 (Throttle motor driver) on the video is the injector driver...correct me if i m wrong
I have a later video where I have continuity tested the ICs. It was a while ago so I'm not sure if it reflects your comment. th-cam.com/video/WuUJMJoDHAk/w-d-xo.html
The person where you get it from will be best to get you the right one as it doesn't just have to be the right model, it will need to be recoded to work with your alarm and immobilizer and keys. The different parts of the car check that they match, even the ignition key is read by the ECU to check it is valid, one can't just be taken and put into another vehicle.
I think you need a lockset that includes the ECU, Immobiliser, Body Control unit and a matching Key. You may also need a barrel and driver's door lock, but you may be able to split the old key and put in the new chip from the matching key. eBay do them for £100 or you get a new ECU and reprogram from BMW for £1000+
MPPS and Galletto give full 512kb however have you worked out how to flash a whole file onto another ECU? Some sort of coding must be changed because of the EWS?
I have looked at the file that comes back, and I think that the ECU may prevent some information coming back, such as the vehicle VIN number. So though the file is 512KB, some information may be blanked out from the image. I haven't looks any further yet.
Develop IT So does your read only contain data after 07000 address? Mine appears to be full. I think you can read full data through OBD but to write data before 07000 you will need boot mode right?
Hello thank you for the video. I have a 2008 Mini Cooper. The Control module Voltage is reading 25.675 volts causing the check engine light to come on for code P0687 PCM/ECU power relay control circuit high. The car runs fine but the Battery light comes on after start for about 30 seconds then goes out. Do you think the 5 volt regulator is bad, and can be replaced? Or, do you think I should have the ECU replaced and reprogrammed? I'm tempted to replace the voltage regulator just to see, but didn't want to just replace stuff all Willy Nilly. Thanks for any advice you may lend ....
To save you from a long story this is what i need help with, I have two motherboards EXACTLY the same, if i was to move chips from my main faulty motherboard to a replacement motherboard, which chips would i need to move over? ive tried the software solution, need to do it by moving chips over now.
Awesome, thx for this vid...ille know what I'm looking at now when I inspect my ecu
It's a really neat car you have. I have left a comment on your last video with a way to check the ECU for your fault. The kind of freezer spray is for specifically for finding electrical faults like this item: cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/33182/freezer-2-400ml/dp/SA03520?st=freezer%20spray
In the US Mouser is probably a better supplier: www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Techspray/1672-15S?qs=6tdx2Dk9NF2nZZYOrJqhXw%3D%3D
Nicely done mate thank you
Thank you.
Can anybody help me out I'm thinking about buying a 07 Mini Cooper but it had some water come up about 2in in the floorboard and it won't start any ideas what it could be
I have an R52 for a convertible S 2007 and I can't get the green plug on the BCM to come loose. Is there a trick to it or does it slide or just pull off ??
I haven't removed a BCM yet, so I'm not able to help currently, sorry.
very great video however according to the pin out the ATM43D-446778 (Throttle motor driver) on the video is the injector driver...correct me if i m wrong
I have a later video where I have continuity tested the ICs. It was a while ago so I'm not sure if it reflects your comment.
th-cam.com/video/WuUJMJoDHAk/w-d-xo.html
so my dme went bad , heading out to the yard to pick one up for a 04 mini cooper . do the numbers have to match or not?
The person where you get it from will be best to get you the right one as it doesn't just have to be the right model, it will need to be recoded to work with your alarm and immobilizer and keys. The different parts of the car check that they match, even the ignition key is read by the ECU to check it is valid, one can't just be taken and put into another vehicle.
I think you need a lockset that includes the ECU, Immobiliser, Body Control unit and a matching Key. You may also need a barrel and driver's door lock, but you may be able to split the old key and put in the new chip from the matching key. eBay do them for £100 or you get a new ECU and reprogram from BMW for £1000+
MPPS and Galletto give full 512kb however have you worked out how to flash a whole file onto another ECU? Some sort of coding must be changed because of the EWS?
I have looked at the file that comes back, and I think that the ECU may prevent some information coming back, such as the vehicle VIN number. So though the file is 512KB, some information may be blanked out from the image. I haven't looks any further yet.
Develop IT That's ashame, was that read in boot mode also or are you referring to the OBD read?
Just read using the MPPS tool.
Develop IT So does your read only contain data after 07000 address? Mine appears to be full. I think you can read full data through OBD but to write data before 07000 you will need boot mode right?
Hello thank you for the video. I have a 2008 Mini Cooper. The Control module Voltage is reading 25.675 volts causing the check engine light to come on for code P0687 PCM/ECU power relay control circuit high. The car runs fine but the Battery light comes on after start for about 30 seconds then goes out. Do you think the 5 volt regulator is bad, and can be replaced? Or, do you think I should have the ECU replaced and reprogrammed? I'm tempted to replace the voltage regulator just to see, but didn't want to just replace stuff all Willy Nilly. Thanks for any advice you may lend ....
I have not experienced where it measures the voltage from at this point, so can not advise about the issue you are experiencing.
Love it
To save you from a long story this is what i need help with, I have two motherboards EXACTLY the same, if i was to move chips from my main faulty motherboard to a replacement motherboard, which chips would i need to move over? ive tried the software solution, need to do it by moving chips over now.
Nice tear down and inferences of the functional roles based on the ICs. I appreciate your work. More insights into the Mini's tiny brain. LOL
Thank you. I got a few old ECUs from eBay last year, I'm hoping to mess with the memory on them at some point.
Immo off mini Cooper m29f400 svpl
Cc
nice video but dont touch chips with your finger ,electrosratic dischard is dangerous
Just replace it with a megasquirt 😄