Thanks for the kind feedback. I am not a professional videographer, so I’m always winging it when I do something like this. The whole point was to provide informative content for the very few people who might actually benefit from working on these saws. I’m glad you found it useful. One of these days I need to take a trip out your way, I hear a lot of great things about NZ.
Great, I hope they help. Good luck on your rebuild. In case you don't already have the 044 IPL, you can find it at the following link: store-wgfoazho0n.mybigcommerce.com/content/Stihl%20044%20(1128)%20IPL.pdf. Also, you can download the workshop service manual here: www.scribd.com/doc/57576996/044-Service-Manual#. I found both to be extremely helpful for the saw I rebuilt.
Right on! Perfect timing I just picked up a complete 044 artic red lever that needs a complete rebuild. This will help when getting to splitting the cases. Cheers
Hey Josh, glad that this series may help you with your rebuild. That’s what it’s all about. Hopefully you won’t have to invest too much in parts for your rebuild, but for such old pro-grade saws $500-600 is typical if investing in OEM parts. But, given that such a saw would run $1200 or more these days new, especially since you’ve got the arctic version, it’s probably worth the investment. Would definitely be cost prohibitive if you were paying for someone else’s labor to boot. Good luck. Let me know if I missed something in my videos that you need help with and I’ll do my best to provide some advice. Unfortunately, I’ve never rebuilt a saw with heated handles and heated carb box, so be forewarned that I have no experience with that.
In case you don't already have the IPL, you can find it at the following link: store-wgfoazho0n.mybigcommerce.com/content/Stihl%20044%20(1128)%20IPL.pdf. Also, you can download the workshop service manual here: www.scribd.com/doc/57576996/044-Service-Manual#. I found both to be extremely helpful for the saw I rebuilt.
One final thing, the older saws came with an o-ring that fits in the bearing bushing on the clutch side of the saw that helps mitigate air leaks through the bushing. But, the saw I rebuilt never had that, and many folks have never had issues without using the o-ring. The newer saws of that generation didn’t come with the o-ring, even though the bushing was identical across years. The washer that sits over the bushing and oiler is supposed to sit tight enough after the clutch is tightened to seal the bushing, and if the washer or bushing wear too much, you just need to replace those components but that would be much more expensive than an o-ring. I would think that the o-ring would solve any leaks. The IPL doesn’t even show the o-ring for that bushing, but the workshop service manual does describe and show it, so that makes it a little confusing. I was able to find the specification of the o-ring from Matthew Olson on one of the outdoor power equipment forums (is 12mm x 1.5mm. McMaster Carr has them made out of viton at www.mcmaster.com/9263k296. I invested in some spare o-rings just in case the saw leaks between the bushing and crankshaft during the break-in period so I can try that to solve the problem first before investing in a new bushing and washer. Fortunately, other than the o-ring which is missing from the IPL, just about all other parts on the IPL can still be obtained from Stihl. The only other part I recall not being able to find from Stihl was the oiler hose which I got aftermarket from Sawzilla.
Right on thanks for the link and info. I picked up the husky/Stihl other style case splitter. Be a first for me. I’ve done a few top ends ect just never that deep. I run an 044 for my firewood and love this saw so figured this Artic version be great project to add to the fleet. So much so I’ve decided to sell the 372xp … thanks again
@@joshm3626 Awesome. A year a go I was in the same boat as you. I’ve used saws for over 40 years but never did anything more than routine maintenance until last winter when I started doing top ends. Then I discovered why full rebuild is so important on an old saw and that I didn’t need to invest all that much in additional tools to enable a bottom end rebuild. Thanks goodness for TH-cam university! It convinced me that it wasn’t difficult…and gave me the confidence to give it a go. Now I’m unafraid to completely rebuild a saw. You’re about to embark on a fun journey……might even turn into an obsession…did for me..I now have 10 work saws in my collection, and have done partial and full rebuilds for several dozen friends and family members. Is fun figuring out how things work……if Husky and Stihl would just give us access to their diagnostic tools so we could work on their newest saws, it would open up a whole new world. Cheers brother.
![[FULL EP.16] เซียนพาลุย "เผือก-ฟรอยด์" กรี๊ดลั่น จนปูหนี | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FsqUvwS3b-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Great commentary in this series, makes watching it a whole lot more interesting - and enlightening. Thanks from NZ!
Thanks for the kind feedback. I am not a professional videographer, so I’m always winging it when I do something like this. The whole point was to provide informative content for the very few people who might actually benefit from working on these saws. I’m glad you found it useful. One of these days I need to take a trip out your way, I hear a lot of great things about NZ.
Great timing on these videos. I'm about to start an 044 rebuild myself. Hope to follow along.
Great, I hope they help. Good luck on your rebuild. In case you don't already have the 044 IPL, you can find it at the following link: store-wgfoazho0n.mybigcommerce.com/content/Stihl%20044%20(1128)%20IPL.pdf. Also, you can download the workshop service manual here: www.scribd.com/doc/57576996/044-Service-Manual#. I found both to be extremely helpful for the saw I rebuilt.
Excellent video well done
Right on! Perfect timing I just picked up a complete 044 artic red lever that needs a complete rebuild. This will help when getting to splitting the cases. Cheers
Hey Josh, glad that this series may help you with your rebuild. That’s what it’s all about. Hopefully you won’t have to invest too much in parts for your rebuild, but for such old pro-grade saws $500-600 is typical if investing in OEM parts. But, given that such a saw would run $1200 or more these days new, especially since you’ve got the arctic version, it’s probably worth the investment. Would definitely be cost prohibitive if you were paying for someone else’s labor to boot. Good luck. Let me know if I missed something in my videos that you need help with and I’ll do my best to provide some advice. Unfortunately, I’ve never rebuilt a saw with heated handles and heated carb box, so be forewarned that I have no experience with that.
In case you don't already have the IPL, you can find it at the following link: store-wgfoazho0n.mybigcommerce.com/content/Stihl%20044%20(1128)%20IPL.pdf. Also, you can download the workshop service manual here: www.scribd.com/doc/57576996/044-Service-Manual#. I found both to be extremely helpful for the saw I rebuilt.
One final thing, the older saws came with an o-ring that fits in the bearing bushing on the clutch side of the saw that helps mitigate air leaks through the bushing. But, the saw I rebuilt never had that, and many folks have never had issues without using the o-ring. The newer saws of that generation didn’t come with the o-ring, even though the bushing was identical across years. The washer that sits over the bushing and oiler is supposed to sit tight enough after the clutch is tightened to seal the bushing, and if the washer or bushing wear too much, you just need to replace those components but that would be much more expensive than an o-ring. I would think that the o-ring would solve any leaks. The IPL doesn’t even show the o-ring for that bushing, but the workshop service manual does describe and show it, so that makes it a little confusing. I was able to find the specification of the o-ring from Matthew Olson on one of the outdoor power equipment forums (is 12mm x 1.5mm. McMaster Carr has them made out of viton at www.mcmaster.com/9263k296. I invested in some spare o-rings just in case the saw leaks between the bushing and crankshaft during the break-in period so I can try that to solve the problem first before investing in a new bushing and washer. Fortunately, other than the o-ring which is missing from the IPL, just about all other parts on the IPL can still be obtained from Stihl. The only other part I recall not being able to find from Stihl was the oiler hose which I got aftermarket from Sawzilla.
Right on thanks for the link and info. I picked up the husky/Stihl other style case splitter. Be a first for me. I’ve done a few top ends ect just never that deep. I run an 044 for my firewood and love this saw so figured this Artic version be great project to add to the fleet. So much so I’ve decided to sell the 372xp … thanks again
@@joshm3626 Awesome. A year a go I was in the same boat as you. I’ve used saws for over 40 years but never did anything more than routine maintenance until last winter when I started doing top ends. Then I discovered why full rebuild is so important on an old saw and that I didn’t need to invest all that much in additional tools to enable a bottom end rebuild. Thanks goodness for TH-cam university! It convinced me that it wasn’t difficult…and gave me the confidence to give it a go. Now I’m unafraid to completely rebuild a saw. You’re about to embark on a fun journey……might even turn into an obsession…did for me..I now have 10 work saws in my collection, and have done partial and full rebuilds for several dozen friends and family members. Is fun figuring out how things work……if Husky and Stihl would just give us access to their diagnostic tools so we could work on their newest saws, it would open up a whole new world. Cheers brother.