I have found an encyclopedia dated back to 1751 published under the direction of Diderot and d’Alembert that describe and show in copper plate drawings the type of winders (spacers) that you show in your video dated Feb 17, 2020. These descriptions and plate drawings do not mention or show any additional double hitch’s on the wieners. In my opinion this is a feel good action taken for what ever reason. I am not trolling your videos, just a life long observation of my own. I have never experienced the distortion of a winner. However, at that transition point there is distortion in the following hanging because of the angle change to a new “slice of the pie”. I have my own cast net building channel and I appreciate your videos. Historically speaking, both widner (spacer) techniques are as old as the other. The last technique you show on vid dated Dec 5, 2020 is less desirable if making nets of smaller mesh size. It comes down to the load capacity of your needle. When attempting to use this technique, your load capabilities are drastically reduced in order to pass a full needle through the drop down widner. I have subbed to your channel to help you get moving along. Thanks for the vids.
I’ve made them using both techniques. I prefer the first technique I was taught which knots the wideners top and bottom, over the one I was shown later which simply loops at the top. Either way works and I simply showed the alternatives. I do however think the double knotted wideners make a neater more professionally done net. After 50 years making these nets I can only put the information out there. If you like it, use it. If you don’t, don’t. Picking pepper out of fly shit to make a useless point is a waste of my time and yours.
I have a question, when beginning your first row of wideners, after you tie into the next row (suppose you starting with 42 headers) how many knots you tie before the first loop?
You will make one regular bar knot then a widener to start, then three knots and another widener. You will continue this and after you tie your drop down the count should be 14 wideners with three knots between. The next widener row will have 4 knots between wideners and each widener in the row will be directly under the widener in the widener row above. Each time you add a widener row, the knots between wideners increase by one. This continues til you reach the length you desire.
check out this video, it really shows you up close how to tie the basic knot. th-cam.com/video/WW6VlflNbTU/w-d-xo.html this is where I learned the basic net knot. I came here to learn about the wideners.
To learn this old style the following link would probably help you visualize what you need to do better than I could explain it. web.archive.org/web/20050203025246/http:/www.bertaut.com/castnet.html
@@BarryJonesSr thank you very much sir. I have a problem with my wideners slipping, it doesn't seem to matter what I do. I thought maybe I was tying it wrong, but I have followed every video I could find until now. Thank you for explaining this.
I ask another CashNet maker about the same thing if you could use the Flying Dutchman on your wideners and I thank you so much for letting me know that you can use it
Actually Russell, the widener is a loop similar to the one used to start your net. That loop is tied with a sheet bend. I tend to use a double sheet bend on the conventional wideners most net builders use now. On the new style of wideners their is only a knot on the bottom of the loop and the loop passes through the bottom of the mesh above. I still use the old method where the loop is made in the top mesh and when the next bar is sewed, the loop is knotted again. This attaches the wideners top and bottom and makes a neater, tighter net.
I have found an encyclopedia dated back to 1751 published under the direction of Diderot and d’Alembert that describe and show in copper plate drawings the type of winders (spacers) that you show in your video dated Feb 17, 2020. These descriptions and plate drawings do not mention or show any additional double hitch’s on the wieners. In my opinion this is a feel good action taken for what ever reason. I am not trolling your videos, just a life long observation of my own. I have never experienced the distortion of a winner. However, at that transition point there is distortion in the following hanging because of the angle change to a new “slice of the pie”. I have my own cast net building channel and I appreciate your videos. Historically speaking, both widner (spacer) techniques are as old as the other. The last technique you show on vid dated Dec 5, 2020 is less desirable if making nets of smaller mesh size. It comes down to the load capacity of your needle. When attempting to use this technique, your load capabilities are drastically reduced in order to pass a full needle through the drop down widner. I have subbed to your channel to help you get moving along. Thanks for the vids.
I’ve made them using both techniques. I prefer the first technique I was taught which knots the wideners top and bottom, over the one I was shown later which simply loops at the top. Either way works and I simply showed the alternatives. I do however think the double knotted wideners make a neater more professionally done net.
After 50 years making these nets I can only put the information out there. If you like it, use it. If you don’t, don’t. Picking pepper out of fly shit to make a useless point is a waste of my time and yours.
I have a question, when beginning your first row of wideners, after you tie into the next row (suppose you starting with 42 headers) how many knots you tie before the first loop?
You will make one regular bar knot then a widener to start, then three knots and another widener. You will continue this and after you tie your drop down the count should be 14 wideners with three knots between. The next widener row will have 4 knots between wideners and each widener in the row will be directly under the widener in the widener row above. Each time you add a widener row, the knots between wideners increase by one. This continues til you reach the length you desire.
I'm having trouble seeing how you did this . I'm very interested in learning. Could you show a closer view.
check out this video, it really shows you up close how to tie the basic knot. th-cam.com/video/WW6VlflNbTU/w-d-xo.html this is where I learned the basic net knot. I came here to learn about the wideners.
Ok so you start off at 3 mesh per widener on 1st set, than the next row will be 4 mesh per, and so on till your finished?
Correct!
Do you still tie that extra loop every 3rd row? or every other row?
To learn this old style the following link would probably help you visualize what you need to do better than I could explain it. web.archive.org/web/20050203025246/http:/www.bertaut.com/castnet.html
@@BarryJonesSr thank you very much sir. I have a problem with my wideners slipping, it doesn't seem to matter what I do. I thought maybe I was tying it wrong, but I have followed every video I could find until now. Thank you for explaining this.
what size nylon are you using? is that #9?
I use #6 bonded nylon except at stress points at the top and two rows before the lead line. I normally use doubled #6, but you can use a single #9.
I ask another CashNet maker about the same thing if you could use the Flying Dutchman on your wideners and I thank you so much for letting me know that you can use it
Actually Russell, the widener is a loop similar to the one used to start your net. That loop is tied with a sheet bend. I tend to use a double sheet bend on the conventional wideners most net builders use now. On the new style of wideners their is only a knot on the bottom of the loop and the loop passes through the bottom of the mesh above. I still use the old method where the loop is made in the top mesh and when the next bar is sewed, the loop is knotted again. This attaches the wideners top and bottom and makes a neater, tighter net.
With your camera angle we can't see anything...