I find your methods easy to follow, thank you. Having adhd I learn more visual directly like you explain. I have a standard poodle and was curious if you could show/explain how to do a proper FFT on a poodle?
I’m so glad my explanation style works for you! Eventually I would love to demo some basic and common poodle haircuts, so thank you for letting me know there’s a need for that. As for your second question about dematting, I personally prefer to demat before getting the dog wet. The bathing and drying process can tighten up existing mats so I like to get them taken care of first. I don’t think it’s wrong, however, to use some kind of conditioner in the tub (before actually washing the dog) and try brushing out some spot mats that way.
Nice video! But as a professional groomer I wish you had mentioned how all dematting tools with the many "knives" or razors actually *shred* the hair at the microscopic level, damaging the hair and making it much more prone to matting in the future. So the more the coat is dematted using a de-matting tool (rather than a slicker) the more damaged the coat will get. A year or two of that treatment and the coat will need shaving just to get the coat healthy again.
I agree that’s a topic for discussion, and I’ll integrate it into my next doodle video. I mean, to be fair, mats themselves are damage too. They gotta come out either by brushing/dematting or trimming. When I talk about dematting I usually assume it’s gonna precede a fur trim… but that’s because I’m a groomer! People at home may be just dematting and brushing between haircuts, so I should talk about the damaged fur as well. Thanks for the inspo!
My dog is a choclate labradoodle (longer haired type in various areas vs tighter in others. Not the tight thick curls I have been seeing on YT today. Kinda curley to wavey in various areas. Thats just the randomness of gene inheritance Her hair type may respond differently in some aspects. I find brushing my dog once every 4-5 days is fine keeping tangles down,but I suspect the techniques and results can vary. The areas that tend to become most difficult are her waist/flanks on down to her hocks,but not her tail. I am going to try and brush those problem areas every day or close to that and and see how that goes. DEMATTING PROCESS Until last month I solved the worst areas mentioned ,by taking a "slicker" brush and using it backwards where the brush direction is less agressive. I stroke it enough until the sound of passing through the hair sounds smoother and quiter(slicker). Then I reverse the slicker to the more agressive angle and it cleans out the remaining smaller mats that are left. It may involve numerous changing directions from agressive to least agressive to fine tune the job,but it wrks great on my dog so far. She really gets the matting on her flanks,legs areas worst and soonest. DE-TANGLER i had started ,yesterday,spraying a light amount of detangler on her after a good brushing. My thought is that it may slow down the areas that tangle so soon . Ill have to see how it works and readjust/fine tune it if needed. TESTING 2 TYPES I clipped two of her larger tangles & knots and on one I soaked human detangler we commonly use on ourselves and on the other tangle/knot , I soaked with the dog detangler. I compared the difference in my separating the knots by hand and an awl and they seemd to separate easier and about the same. I chose the spray bottle of detangler for dogs because it was easier to cover her entire body without any of the mess if done like humans do it. Guess it could be poured on her towards the end of her shower she gets.
I have a 4 month old puppy and took him to get nails trimmed. The groomer told me to start brushing him and if he bites flick his nose so he gets used to it. That sounds wrong to me. Am I over reacting ? This makes me feel uncomfortable about scheduling his puppy groom with her.
From my experience, puppies aren't going to like the brushing at first because it's new and feels weird to them, and their first instinct will be to bite whatever's causing that feeling to make it go away. You do not want that. You absolutely do not want to let them get away with biting you or the brush. If you're worried about hurting the dog, apply the brush to the inside of your arm to see how much pressure you should apply. Watching videos like the one above will help too. If you're worried about the groomer's method of training the dog, you can also use treats and commands to make the dog stop or find alternatives if that doesn't work. My puppy is fairly obedient. I didn't have to worry about her listening. The groomer is right. I say that as a grooming tech and the owner of a fluffy poodle pup. You have to start brushing your dog while it's still a puppy. The longer you put it off, the harder it will be for them to get used to it, and if you stop after they resist or bite you, they will keep doing it every time you try to brush them. If you don't brush your dog on a regular basis, the dog is the one who's going to pay, especially if it has thick, fluffy fur. The fur gets matted, the mats trap dirt and moisture, and if it goes on for too long, it causes skin problems. I have seen sores on dogs that had heavy mats. It's not a pretty sight.
Hello! There’s a small “down arrow” to the right of the video title. Clicking on it reveals the video description. The links are listed in the description! Hope that helps 🐶
Very informative video!! Where were you when i needed u 😭 After 2 years i now finally understand
Thanks so much for your detailed explanation of tools. I've bought so many of the wrong thing before so great to have an expert share the details! X
You are very welcome! Thanks so much for watching! 🐶
Thank you
I find your methods easy to follow, thank you. Having adhd I learn more visual directly like you explain. I have a standard poodle and was curious if you could show/explain how to do a proper FFT on a poodle?
Also, I have seen you are not supposed to brush a poodle dry. If you demat a poodle say tail or ear do you do it dry?
I’m so glad my explanation style works for you! Eventually I would love to demo some basic and common poodle haircuts, so thank you for letting me know there’s a need for that. As for your second question about dematting, I personally prefer to demat before getting the dog wet. The bathing and drying process can tighten up existing mats so I like to get them taken care of first. I don’t think it’s wrong, however, to use some kind of conditioner in the tub (before actually washing the dog) and try brushing out some spot mats that way.
Nice video! But as a professional groomer I wish you had mentioned how all dematting tools with the many "knives" or razors actually *shred* the hair at the microscopic level, damaging the hair and making it much more prone to matting in the future. So the more the coat is dematted using a de-matting tool (rather than a slicker) the more damaged the coat will get. A year or two of that treatment and the coat will need shaving just to get the coat healthy again.
I agree that’s a topic for discussion, and I’ll integrate it into my next doodle video. I mean, to be fair, mats themselves are damage too. They gotta come out either by brushing/dematting or trimming. When I talk about dematting I usually assume it’s gonna precede a fur trim… but that’s because I’m a groomer! People at home may be just dematting and brushing between haircuts, so I should talk about the damaged fur as well. Thanks for the inspo!
My dog is a choclate labradoodle (longer haired type in various areas vs tighter in others. Not the tight thick curls I have been seeing on YT today. Kinda curley to wavey in various areas. Thats just the randomness of gene inheritance
Her hair type may respond differently in some aspects. I find brushing my dog once every 4-5 days is fine keeping tangles down,but I suspect the techniques and results can vary.
The areas that tend to become most difficult are her waist/flanks on down to her hocks,but not her tail. I am going to try and brush those problem areas every day or close to that and and see how that goes.
DEMATTING PROCESS
Until last month I solved the worst areas mentioned ,by taking a "slicker" brush and using it backwards where the brush direction is less agressive. I stroke it enough until the sound of passing through the hair sounds smoother and quiter(slicker). Then I reverse the slicker to the more agressive angle and it cleans out the remaining smaller mats that are left. It may involve numerous changing directions from agressive to least agressive to fine tune the job,but it wrks great on my dog so far. She really gets the matting on her flanks,legs areas worst and soonest.
DE-TANGLER
i had started ,yesterday,spraying a light amount of detangler on her after a good brushing. My thought is that it may slow down the areas that tangle so soon . Ill have to see how it works and readjust/fine tune it if needed.
TESTING 2 TYPES
I clipped two of her larger tangles & knots and on one I soaked human detangler we commonly use on ourselves and on the other tangle/knot , I soaked with the dog detangler. I compared the difference in my separating the knots by hand and an awl and they seemd to separate easier and about the same. I chose the spray bottle of detangler for dogs because it was easier to cover her entire body without any of the mess if done like humans do it. Guess it could be poured on her towards the end of her shower she gets.
Great info, thank you!
I have a 4 month old puppy and took him to get nails trimmed. The groomer told me to start brushing him and if he bites flick his nose so he gets used to it. That sounds wrong to me. Am I over reacting ? This makes me feel uncomfortable about scheduling his puppy groom with her.
From my experience, puppies aren't going to like the brushing at first because it's new and feels weird to them, and their first instinct will be to bite whatever's causing that feeling to make it go away. You do not want that. You absolutely do not want to let them get away with biting you or the brush. If you're worried about hurting the dog, apply the brush to the inside of your arm to see how much pressure you should apply. Watching videos like the one above will help too. If you're worried about the groomer's method of training the dog, you can also use treats and commands to make the dog stop or find alternatives if that doesn't work. My puppy is fairly obedient. I didn't have to worry about her listening.
The groomer is right. I say that as a grooming tech and the owner of a fluffy poodle pup. You have to start brushing your dog while it's still a puppy. The longer you put it off, the harder it will be for them to get used to it, and if you stop after they resist or bite you, they will keep doing it every time you try to brush them. If you don't brush your dog on a regular basis, the dog is the one who's going to pay, especially if it has thick, fluffy fur. The fur gets matted, the mats trap dirt and moisture, and if it goes on for too long, it causes skin problems. I have seen sores on dogs that had heavy mats. It's not a pretty sight.
Where’s the link to the tools?
Hello! There’s a small “down arrow” to the right of the video title. Clicking on it reveals the video description. The links are listed in the description! Hope that helps 🐶
@@GoodDogGrooming Thanks!