Here is the Mopar Transmission Pan I would recommend sticking with. amzn.to/3zXTmQ4 Here is the mopar 8 speed transmission fluid amzn.to/3rMXNup Here is the fluid transfer pump amzn.to/37fB3JX Here is the 10mm and 8mm allen sockets amzn.to/3jiXsvs
Bruh, Recommending a plastic non changeable filter pan is by far the WORST recommendation you've ever made. I instead bought the Aluminum PPE Pan that comes either bare aluminum or painted for an additional 20 bucks. I bought the bare and applied truck bed coating to it. Probably in retrospect just buy the painted one. And the price is very similar to the factory plastic POS 1 time use pan. The aluminum one the filter can be changed. I saw in another video you used ZF ATF and I was trying to find that vid and ended up here instead. sigh
I have a 2020 Challenger 6.4 with a ZF 8HP, and need advice. I do realize this video is a year old. What do think of the Amsoil ATF ? Some Mopar enthusiast have been claiming the Amsoil is better than the OEM life guard made fluid. Also are you familiar with a Aluminum reusable pan with magnets and filter. Thx in advance I appreciate any advice you can provide.
I just did my first fluid change after 380,000km with towing and hard accelerations and I have to say the fluid wasn't at all that bad it does shift faster now. Zf 8hp70 is a beautiful transmission
Best video instruction on the internet for changing ZF transmission fluid. Follows manufacturer guidelines exactly. Three critical tips here that differ from all/most other instructions: 1) level the transmission (not the vehicle); 2) tells how to manually shift to 2nd gear (for newer trucks with electric shift); and 3) tells how to read transmission temp on dash during fill (for newer ram pickups). The last tip saves money as an OBD2 reader isn’t required. Thanks!
I just changed my pan/filter and fluid and was able to get 6 qts in. had it not been for this video I wouldnt have known to raise the back end to level the transmission out. this was huge because the last time I did this service I did it with the truck level and was only able to get 4qts in. so far the truck seems to shift smoother. side note, I have a 2014 ram 1500 hemi with the dreaded crossover pipe. I cut down a 10mm allen wrench and taped it to a ratching 10mm wrench so that I could drain the pan via the drain plug(no mess). also, I had to unbolt the 3 15mm transmission mount bolts and jack the tranny about 1/2” to pull the pan out. Hope this helps anybody doing this service, it really isnt too bad.
Hi Gang, I have 2015 with pentastar v6 zf 8 speed, there's a torque specification as well for the bolts (I went to tranny shop and started leaking shortly after, had to go back twice, finally went to dealership and they said it there's a procedure for torque the bolts with a torque soec
Leveling transmission you overfilling it which is no good. I manage put 6 qt in the 4 post lift with truck in level position, and your truck switch gears smoother cause you did change the fluid hahaha
Great vid, no one else explained about having the transmission level rather than the truck. Since I only have two jack stands that actually made it a lot easier. Just finished the job. I have the regular Ram with the exhaust pipe in the way. Trying to avoid burning myself or the pump tub reminded me of the old game Operation.
Watched 3 videos on changing the filter--this one is the best by far! Thank you! Also, in this case I'm glad I have an ecodiesel as the HEMI exhaust runs directly under the drain plug preventing access to that plug.
Thank you for the video! I just finished the job this evening on my 2015 1500 with 130,000 miles. I ended up using Valvoline, since it’s officially approved on the Maxlife product information sheet, for the ZF 8 speed. I drove it around the block and it was significantly smoother. I always watch your videos when I need work done on the truck. Thank again!
@@RyanCiesielski when i did mine, i was unaware of that step. everything else i was in line with. i also had an aftermarket pan similar to that one, but i don't think it holds the same capacity as stock, and caused serious tc and shutter issues later on. i am going to swap to a PPE pan this weekend, replace trans heater tube and o rings, and replace the cooler. i'll let you know if i can tell whether or not that step makes a difference.
One step in this fluid/filter change that I’ve seen mentioned including by ZF themselves is that you have to drive the vehicle until the temp hits 75c so the trans cooler sees flow through that part of the system. You then have to wait for temps to drop back to 30-40c and verify fluid level as you showed in this vid (leveled with truck running). Maybe this is only required for vehicles that have the HD transmission cooler? ZF also mentions adding an extra .5L of fluid if cooler is present, think that means I have to Jack the side up and pump in an extra .5l after I get the full level verified? What do you think John?
The extra .5l is the capacity of the cooler system above the standard model. Checking the level will remain the same and you will probably not notice the difference in volume of fluid unless you actually start measuring. When the engine is not running the fluid pump is not moving any fluid in the system through the extra cooler and it wouldn't typically drain back into the body of the transmission and instead stay in a fluid-lock in the lines and cooler until the vehicle is started. I would expect the cooler is 100% active, meaning the fluid is moving through it constantly, not constricted by a thermostat like the engine cooling system. I don't believe engineers would want trans fluid temps to spike hi-lo but remain at a constant normal operating range so the property of the fluid remains constant for the clutch-pack system. Most of the fluid of the system is shared between the torque converter system and the sump pan and that residual in the HD cooling tubes accounts for less than 10% of the volume.
thanks for all of the ram Maintenace tips as i have done everyone, at 199,000+ on my 2017 5.7 hemi. so far only issues have been we have started using some oil between oil changes.
223000+ on my 2016 ram 3.6 replaced all rockers and lifters due to one ticking the needle bearing inside was shot, and replaced the rad last year haven’t done trans fluid change in 3 years, idk why I let that go for so long when it’s so simple.. oil changes faithfully and it’s a daily driver 8 hours + a day
The only literature I found on servicing these does not mention jacking the rear up, it just says to have the vehicle in a horizontal position. Is this something specific to the Ram because of the way the transmission is mounted?
Well, they do hope to sell you a new transmission at some point I'm sure. ZF is the company that makes the transmission and they recommend changing the pan and fluid every 50,000-70,000 miles. I think I'll listen to the advice of the manufacturer of the transmission over the advice of Chrysler.
Question. I'm not concerned with replacing the pan/filter. Can I just simply drain what's in the pan ( via drain hole) and then refill like changing your oil. Example 4 qts out 4 in ? If you are just draining what's in the pan do you still need to start the truck and cycle the gears ?
Just changing the fluid, replacing at least 2 or 3 times in 100 mile intervals could help a ton. Since Valvoline MaxLife ATF is approved fluid, I'd recommend doing that tbh
@@DanielWraps thanks for getting back! Sounds good. Do I need to start truck and run it through the gears ( w/E. Brake on) or just ATF out, ATF in and never get out from under the truck. Thanks M
@@6767mac the only issue I have with only replacing what you took out is it could have always been off from factory. However, if it's never had rough shifting behaviors and you're just trying to get clean fluid in, just replace what you took out
Is your driveway a hill? Wondering how you got the rear wheels off the ground with the trans level.... seems like tires would be still touching ground? Or is it that the trans is slanted in the truck?
I am not convinced my transmission on my 2016 charger r/t scat pack has failed at ~ 40934 miles and it concerns me even further as I have the 8HP70 model transmission in my 2015 RAM truck at ~ 55100. I was driving about 40 - 50 MPH when I heard an unprompted downshift and then moments later check engine light came on and message “service shifter”. The transmission also seemed to be stuck in a lower gear in D. I scanned the OBD2 and had confirmed permanent codes: U1412; U0402;U0001; P1DD2. On the electronic shifter module: U0402; U0101. On the power control module: U1412; U0402; U11C2.
I have 123k kms and don't do any towing at all and gonna be doing my first transmission fluid change, is there anything I have to look out for? Also truck is leveled in the front 2.5" so doni still need to raise the rear end?
Man....i dont want screws into plastic in my trans pan....plus they are cheap and could crack being plastic so i think just replacing when needed is probably best option.
This may be covered somewhere but I can’t find it. Can I just do a drain and fill without changing the pan? I know it only gets “some” out and not all. But how much? I’m sitting at 68k miles on my 2017 Ram 8sp and I’d like to just do a drain and fill a couple times, like every 15k miles and then at like 100-120k do the full pan.
Why does the dealer say it the transmission does not require a transmission fluid change? Is it because of incompetent mechanic goofing up a straight forward procedure? And more warranty claims because of poor procedures, any answers?
Any issue with this aftermarket pan leaking etc? Also heard the drain plug on the oem pan is one time use but I’m assuming not if you drained and refilled without replacing…
I would stick with the OEM pan. I made another video on my main channel showing where the aftermarket ones leak and why it’s not worth it. I didn’t have any issues with my OEM drain plug. It has an o ring on it so no reason you can’t reuse.
I would stick with the OEM pan. I made another video on my main channel showing where the aftermarket ones leak and why it’s not worth it. I didn’t have any issues with my OEM drain plug. It has an o ring on it so no reason you can’t reuse.
Thank you for posting this. I don't buy the lifetime fluid claim. I think all fluids and oil breaks down over time. I'm also going to change the fluid in my diffs as well as the transmission. I have a 2014 Ram with the 8 speed. Great truck. I only have 65K on it.
How many quarts in total did you put back in the trans ? I've had mine serviced at the dealer and was told I needed 8 quarts. I think I got the old " screw the customer " service at the local ram dealer.
I find those transfer pumps a pain in the ass. I use a bug sprayer but change the tip. I have one with gear oil but any oil would work Pump it pull trigger on sprayer
Great video! Not sure if anyone else mentioned this but there is 1 more thing to check before you are done with this job. Very important (IMO) to do the last part of driving the truck up to running temperature especially for the transmission then letting it cool off and then checking the fluid level again at the temperature in the manual. The procedure you showed is what the Chrysler manual has as well but then there is an additional step NOT in the manual and I believe is critical to prevent a transmission failure that starts around 11:50 in the below video: th-cam.com/video/BPkCUfqi-gE/w-d-xo.html Hopefully this helps keep these transmissions going for a long time.
@@wowdude8244 Nah decided to hold off a new tranny is less then 3k and mine shifts fine. Service advisor at my local dealer also told me the ZF8 don’t need fluid change, but I bought the truck used so I don’t know the full service history on the transmission.
@@CarveLife still rolling n rocking with the same transmission fluid shifting great I figure I’d just replace the tranny it if it were to ever become a problem
I’m trying the same procedure and am wondering if the back tires have to be off the ground with truck being fairly level to do proper change. But on this video I see the transmission pan needs to be level.. so what I’m asking is does the truck have to be level or does the transmission have to be level
Here is the ZF factory service page, I'm not sure about the raising the rear quite so much most of the time it's assumed by the factory that a lift would be used for this service and so the "horizontal" position of the vehicle is what is specified. The procedure here makes me thing and overfill might be possible? aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/ti/download/Binary/22f16dae-c571-11ec-a2e7-00505690da53.pdf
Lifetime fluid. No change necessary. Reason for this is: once damage and wear is done, changing fluid won’t prolong the transmission life. This synthetic fluid doesn’t break down. Answer other questions in comments: there is no drain plug on original and there is no dipstick to refill through. The filter is built into the pan. It is plastic. Should only be replaced if it’s broken. Also, saw a guy replace fluid after 150,000 miles and tows a boat. The fluid was clear and still looked new. He felt better about having it done, but did realize it was unnecessary
great video! one thing to add. if you want to know if youve added the correct amount of fluid after performing all the steps check the fluid again once it reaches normal operating temp. it should be perfect, and if its a little low add a bit more fluid, if its a little high let some drain out.
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi as well any advice on why my transmission temp is over heating is going way up on how hot it gets I dont know why is doing that. Need some help thanks
Smart to only use Mopar or ZF lifeguard fluid with such a particular trans. Some times we learn lessons the hard way when trying to cut some corners or using aftermarket options.
Bout to attempt this on my 2015 tradesman 1500. I have 112k on her. Got the Mopar oem pan and Mopar atf. Gonna use a battery powered fluid transfer pump. Anybody have problems with trans slipping with new fluid??
They are life time fill. That's why mopar doesn't have a dip stick or fill tube. I work at a dealership and in Chryslers service library (the O.E. online service manual) the trans service is specific that it's for 6 speeds only. But if you have $800 for parts and can do it yourself fine.
There's no such thing if you have knowledge in metallurgy. The oil is going to gather metal shaving over time, possibly ceramic from clutch and various other rotating parts. Heat cycles will break down the oil, etc. Lifetime warranty meaning it'll likely make it past the warranty period at an acceptable rate to remain profitable to sell. It doesn't mean you can neglect servicing your vehicle. Last nite the company who manufactured this transmission themselves said 60k miles before needing to replace pan, and oil. Either way, it doesn't matter to me what anyone does, but something to consider.
@ryanpark2049 with hydraulic oil it's normally sheer from tight tolerances that cause breakdown. If this is the transmission I'm thinking the filter is built into the pan. The filter and fluid are only changed in the event of internal parts replacement under a rebuild. They will last several hundred miles if not abused.
@@gofigure84 Well I'm not much of an oil analyst. I'm a tech, so the three main principles of what is the job of the oil are where I begin my thought process regarding it. 1. Lubricating the engine 2. Cooling/managing engine temps 3. Trapping metal particles Therefore in my mind it makes sense to change well used oil for fresh. However I'm no expert man.
@ryanpark2049 transmissions and engines are very different as you well know. So the use and break down would logically be different. I'm a mechanic and have worked parts for dealerships for cars and tractors. Fun fact mix transmission fluid (small amount) in your oil and the inside of the engine will not brown because of the conditioners in it. Worked with a guy that in his 02 GMC did 5 qts oil 1 qt trans fluid since it was new. Well over 300k on it and the inside of the motor looks like it was just machined.
Why do something so simple when they can create 1000 steps and 20 extra parts and a special extra expensive fluid? You think they have you the customer in mind?
Lifetime fluid is the best thing RAM ever invented. Not for you regular schleps that want your transmission to last for 300k miles but for guys like me with lifetime warranty I love the idea of getting a new transmission on RAMs dime every 150k or so miles :)
It’s lifetime because clutch material gets mixed with the trans fluid and work together in higher mileage transmissions. Removing that clutch material by draining and adding new fluid causes issues such as slipping. If you want to change filters or anything else between the pan and transmission you really should just re use the old fluid.
Here is the Mopar Transmission Pan I would recommend sticking with.
amzn.to/3zXTmQ4
Here is the mopar 8 speed transmission fluid
amzn.to/3rMXNup
Here is the fluid transfer pump
amzn.to/37fB3JX
Here is the 10mm and 8mm allen sockets
amzn.to/3jiXsvs
In the video you installed a Dorman and here you are recommending a Mopar. Did something happen with the Dorman?
Bruh, Recommending a plastic non changeable filter pan is by far the WORST recommendation you've ever made. I instead bought the Aluminum PPE Pan that comes either bare aluminum or painted for an additional 20 bucks. I bought the bare and applied truck bed coating to it. Probably in retrospect just buy the painted one. And the price is very similar to the factory plastic POS 1 time use pan. The aluminum one the filter can be changed. I saw in another video you used ZF ATF and I was trying to find that vid and ended up here instead. sigh
I have a 2020 Challenger 6.4 with a ZF 8HP, and need advice. I do realize this video is a year old. What do think of the Amsoil ATF ? Some Mopar enthusiast have been claiming the Amsoil is better than the OEM life guard made fluid. Also are you familiar with a Aluminum reusable pan with magnets and filter. Thx in advance I appreciate any advice you can provide.
@@anonimous2451 Just curious, why bother painting it? For looks only or is there another reason?
@@Glock274Jimmy Paint? No, Truck Bed Liner.
I just did my first fluid change after 380,000km with towing and hard accelerations and I have to say the fluid wasn't at all that bad it does shift faster now. Zf 8hp70 is a beautiful transmission
Love it fast and to the point!!! People try and make these fluid changes sound impossible to do!
Thanks for your video and the effort put forward. Much appreciated!
Best video instruction on the internet for changing ZF transmission fluid. Follows manufacturer guidelines exactly. Three critical tips here that differ from all/most other instructions: 1) level the transmission (not the vehicle); 2) tells how to manually shift to 2nd gear (for newer trucks with electric shift); and 3) tells how to read transmission temp on dash during fill (for newer ram pickups). The last tip saves money as an OBD2 reader isn’t required. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
I just changed my pan/filter and fluid and was able to get 6 qts in. had it not been for this video I wouldnt have known to raise the back end to level the transmission out. this was huge because the last time I did this service I did it with the truck level and was only able to get 4qts in. so far the truck seems to shift smoother. side note, I have a 2014 ram 1500 hemi with the dreaded crossover pipe. I cut down a 10mm allen wrench and taped it to a ratching 10mm wrench so that I could drain the pan via the drain plug(no mess). also, I had to unbolt the 3 15mm transmission mount bolts and jack the tranny about 1/2” to pull the pan out. Hope this helps anybody doing this service, it really isnt too bad.
This makes me want to take it to a shop lol
@@Joeydrummer_90 haha! the older I get the more I lean in the direction of taking it to a shop too
Hi Gang, I have 2015 with pentastar v6 zf 8 speed, there's a torque specification as well for the bolts (I went to tranny shop and started leaking shortly after, had to go back twice, finally went to dealership and they said it there's a procedure for torque the bolts with a torque soec
Leveling transmission you overfilling it which is no good.
I manage put 6 qt in the 4 post lift with truck in level position, and your truck switch gears smoother cause you did change the fluid hahaha
@@tomar646because the transmission leans back and down and the oil filler is at the front you are putting more oil in it then if it was level ahah
Great vid, no one else explained about having the transmission level rather than the truck. Since I only have two jack stands that actually made it a lot easier. Just finished the job. I have the regular Ram with the exhaust pipe in the way. Trying to avoid burning myself or the pump tub reminded me of the old game Operation.
So you recommend the Mopar but you used a Dorman did the Dorman leak or fail after the video?
Glad you updated this as I was about to purchase the Dorman.
I used a new weed sprayer to pump the fluid in mine. Saves you from getting a nice arm pump while pumping haha
Hi, excellent video!!! Just a question, why do the wheels have to turn? Can you shift into second gear manually by holding the brake down? Thanks!!
Great video! I watched a few in the last five months or so and as simple as your video is it fills in the gaps of others. Thank you very much.
I just upgraded to the ppe aluminum pan. Not too bad. Changed at 60k miles.
Watched 3 videos on changing the filter--this one is the best by far! Thank you! Also, in this case I'm glad I have an ecodiesel as the HEMI exhaust runs directly under the drain plug preventing access to that plug.
Thank you for the video! I just finished the job this evening on my 2015 1500 with 130,000 miles. I ended up using Valvoline, since it’s officially approved on the Maxlife product information sheet, for the ZF 8 speed. I drove it around the block and it was significantly smoother. I always watch your videos when I need work done on the truck. Thank again!
Did you take your wheels off the back of your truck to row through gears 1 and 2?
@@RyanCiesielski when i did mine, i was unaware of that step. everything else i was in line with. i also had an aftermarket pan similar to that one, but i don't think it holds the same capacity as stock, and caused serious tc and shutter issues later on. i am going to swap to a PPE pan this weekend, replace trans heater tube and o rings, and replace the cooler. i'll let you know if i can tell whether or not that step makes a difference.
I have similar milage on my 16 1500. Was this the first time it's been changed on your truck? If so how's it holding up?
@@itz_mpmatt yes this was the first one I’ve had done on it. It’s still shifting smoothly, and I easily drive 500-600 miles a week for work
@@d.stacy90 any difference with the new ppe pan?
So do you not recommend the Dorman pan anymore? Did it fail? Should I go with the Mopar?
One step in this fluid/filter change that I’ve seen mentioned including by ZF themselves is that you have to drive the vehicle until the temp hits 75c so the trans cooler sees flow through that part of the system. You then have to wait for temps to drop back to 30-40c and verify fluid level as you showed in this vid (leveled with truck running). Maybe this is only required for vehicles that have the HD transmission cooler? ZF also mentions adding an extra .5L of fluid if cooler is present, think that means I have to Jack the side up and pump in an extra .5l after I get the full level verified? What do you think John?
The extra .5l is the capacity of the cooler system above the standard model. Checking the level will remain the same and you will probably not notice the difference in volume of fluid unless you actually start measuring. When the engine is not running the fluid pump is not moving any fluid in the system through the extra cooler and it wouldn't typically drain back into the body of the transmission and instead stay in a fluid-lock in the lines and cooler until the vehicle is started.
I would expect the cooler is 100% active, meaning the fluid is moving through it constantly, not constricted by a thermostat like the engine cooling system. I don't believe engineers would want trans fluid temps to spike hi-lo but remain at a constant normal operating range so the property of the fluid remains constant for the clutch-pack system.
Most of the fluid of the system is shared between the torque converter system and the sump pan and that residual in the HD cooling tubes accounts for less than 10% of the volume.
thanks for all of the ram Maintenace tips as i have done everyone, at 199,000+ on my 2017 5.7 hemi. so far only issues have been we have started using some oil between oil changes.
223000+ on my 2016 ram 3.6 replaced all rockers and lifters due to one ticking the needle bearing inside was shot, and replaced the rad last year haven’t done trans fluid change in 3 years, idk why I let that go for so long when it’s so simple.. oil changes faithfully and it’s a daily driver 8 hours + a day
@@sors1599my 2018 Ram 3.6 has 175k miles, what about the airflow grate…still a great truck.
Great information and step by step instructions great job Jon appreciate you 👌👍✌️
Does that Dorman 265-850 interchange with my 2016, 1500 hemi, 8 spd also? R there multiple "8 spd" trans's dodge uses? Thxs 4 the vids and ur time👍👍
What about the oil in the Torque Coverter oil, the Cooler Lines, and The transmission coolers themselves. Why didn't you change that oil?
The only literature I found on servicing these does not mention jacking the rear up, it just says to have the vehicle in a horizontal position. Is this something specific to the Ram because of the way the transmission is mounted?
I checked the level of my pan and it's 9 degrees down at the back so the rear needs to be jacked up a long way to be level.
You didn't use RTV on the gasket or did I just miss that? Thank you for the great video.
Right on, appreciate these short videos on vehicle service, very helpful! Thanks man!
Great video , my transmission have 320 kms . Dealer says they don’t change the oil , they recommend not touching it 😡
Well, they do hope to sell you a new transmission at some point I'm sure. ZF is the company that makes the transmission and they recommend changing the pan and fluid every 50,000-70,000 miles. I think I'll listen to the advice of the manufacturer of the transmission over the advice of Chrysler.
Question. I'm not concerned with replacing the pan/filter. Can I just simply drain what's in the pan ( via drain hole) and then refill like changing your oil. Example 4 qts out 4 in ? If you are just draining what's in the pan do you still need to start the truck and cycle the gears ?
Just changing the fluid, replacing at least 2 or 3 times in 100 mile intervals could help a ton. Since Valvoline MaxLife ATF is approved fluid, I'd recommend doing that tbh
@@DanielWraps thanks for getting back! Sounds good. Do I need to start truck and run it through the gears ( w/E. Brake on) or just ATF out, ATF in and never get out from under the truck. Thanks M
@@6767mac make sure you're parked on level ground and follow what the guy in the video did just as far as draining and refilling. Easy peasy.
@@6767mac the only issue I have with only replacing what you took out is it could have always been off from factory. However, if it's never had rough shifting behaviors and you're just trying to get clean fluid in, just replace what you took out
@@DanielWraps thank you sir ! 👍
My check engine light is on. It is a P0740; something about the torque converter In transmission What do you recommend?
Thanks
Brady Scriber
Will this oil pan fit on a 8 speed transmission for a ram 3500 6.4 hemi?
Thanks for the videos.
Is your driveway a hill? Wondering how you got the rear wheels off the ground with the trans level.... seems like tires would be still touching ground? Or is it that the trans is slanted in the truck?
Trans is slightly angled
PPE sells an aluminum heavy duty pan for this looking to get one for my truck
I am not convinced my transmission on my 2016 charger r/t scat pack has failed at ~ 40934 miles and it concerns me even further as I have the 8HP70 model transmission in my 2015 RAM truck at ~ 55100. I was driving about 40 - 50 MPH when I heard an unprompted downshift and then moments later check engine light came on and message “service shifter”. The transmission also seemed to be stuck in a lower gear in D. I scanned the OBD2 and had confirmed permanent codes: U1412; U0402;U0001; P1DD2. On the electronic shifter module: U0402; U0101. On the power control module: U1412; U0402; U11C2.
Question. How long did this entire job take you?
Are going to need two jacks in order to raise the back of the wheels for when you need to move them into second gear?
I have 123k kms and don't do any towing at all and gonna be doing my first transmission fluid change, is there anything I have to look out for? Also truck is leveled in the front 2.5" so doni still need to raise the rear end?
Good luck with the new channel thinking it will be fun!!!!!
So did you take your wheels off the back of the truck?
Man....i dont want screws into plastic in my trans pan....plus they are cheap and could crack being plastic so i think just replacing when needed is probably best option.
This may be covered somewhere but I can’t find it. Can I just do a drain and fill without changing the pan? I know it only gets “some” out and not all. But how much? I’m sitting at 68k miles on my 2017 Ram 8sp and I’d like to just do a drain and fill a couple times, like every 15k miles and then at like 100-120k do the full pan.
Why my selector blinking at "R" position ?
Changed filter and add fluid. Thanks..!!
What you figure out?
Why does the dealer say it the transmission does not require a transmission fluid change? Is it because of incompetent mechanic goofing up a straight forward procedure? And more warranty claims because of poor procedures, any answers?
Someone told me (who was a servive manager) that it's not worth the dealerships time. I haven't changed mine yet at 110,000 miles.
The dealership wants to sell you a new truck as opposed to performing maintenance, smh.
It looks like trans pan is plastic? Am I right? The are pretty crazy in ram.
I'm going to subscribe because your video is so clear and to the point. I mean, everyone could take advice from you while making diy videos!
Great information, but it looks like I'll be taking my truck to the authorized dealership for this service.
They don't want to do it because they say it's lifetime. They wanted to charge me over $1500 like it hurt their feelings because I wanted it changed.
@@kendrickjr2122 Amazing. What a pain.
Any issue with this aftermarket pan leaking etc? Also heard the drain plug on the oem pan is one time use but I’m assuming not if you drained and refilled without replacing…
I would stick with the OEM pan. I made another video on my main channel showing where the aftermarket ones leak and why it’s not worth it. I didn’t have any issues with my OEM drain plug. It has an o ring on it so no reason you can’t reuse.
I would stick with the OEM pan. I made another video on my main channel showing where the aftermarket ones leak and why it’s not worth it. I didn’t have any issues with my OEM drain plug. It has an o ring on it so no reason you can’t reuse.
Will a dodge charger the same thing
Thank you for posting this. I don't buy the lifetime fluid claim. I think all fluids and oil breaks down over time. I'm also going to change the fluid in my diffs as well as the transmission. I have a 2014 Ram with the 8 speed. Great truck. I only have 65K on it.
Thanks my friend👍
Did you oil the gasket?
Holy crap that is a process.
Very stupid design, I work in the HVAC industry and some of these designs I see are so stupid I think the designers are drunk or high or something..
Gotta do this on my Durango, 102k on the clock.
Where did you get the information for this procedure?
You video is helpful thank you for sharing
How often do you recommend doing this?
Did you find out
I emailed ZF and was told 100,000 miles or 8 years
Thank you, for another informative video!
gracias amigo ✌️
How many quarts you ended up using?
Thank you for the video
How many quarts in total did you put back in the trans ? I've had mine serviced at the dealer and was told I needed 8 quarts. I think I got the old " screw the customer " service at the local ram dealer.
They could have vac flushed it which I wouldn’t want them to do.
@@jsixamoreWhy not do a vacuum flush?
I find those transfer pumps a pain in the ass. I use a bug sprayer but change the tip. I have one with gear oil but any oil would work
Pump it pull trigger on sprayer
I guess an old fashion dip stick is too hard to incorporate in their design.
Great video! Not sure if anyone else mentioned this but there is 1 more thing to check before you are done with this job. Very important (IMO) to do the last part of driving the truck up to running temperature especially for the transmission then letting it cool off and then checking the fluid level again at the temperature in the manual.
The procedure you showed is what the Chrysler manual has as well but then there is an additional step NOT in the manual and I believe is critical to prevent a transmission failure that starts around 11:50 in the below video:
th-cam.com/video/BPkCUfqi-gE/w-d-xo.html
Hopefully this helps keep these transmissions going for a long time.
Thank you!
How many liters?
what transmission oil did you use ??
How much u charge to do a hellcat swap if u get the parts
I have 173,000 miles on my ZF 8 speed should I do this service? Or is there a chance it could harm the transmission
Did you change the fluid?
@@wowdude8244 Nah decided to hold off a new tranny is less then 3k and mine shifts fine. Service advisor at my local dealer also told me the ZF8 don’t need fluid change, but I bought the truck used so I don’t know the full service history on the transmission.
What did you do
@@CarveLife still rolling n rocking with the same transmission fluid shifting great I figure I’d just replace the tranny it if it were to ever become a problem
@@wowdude8244 nope I figure I’ll just replace the tranny if need be still shifting like butter at 181k now
What if it’s not level by a tiny bit
I’m trying the same procedure and am wondering if the back tires have to be off the ground with truck being fairly level to do proper change. But on this video I see the transmission pan needs to be level.. so what I’m asking is does the truck have to be level or does the transmission have to be level
Trans is 9 degrees down at back so needs to be jacked up a fair bit to level on your ram.
Here is the ZF factory service page, I'm not sure about the raising the rear quite so much most of the time it's assumed by the factory that a lift would be used for this service and so the "horizontal" position of the vehicle is what is specified. The procedure here makes me thing and overfill might be possible? aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/ti/download/Binary/22f16dae-c571-11ec-a2e7-00505690da53.pdf
My new pan only came with two magnets in the front of the pan but is missing the one near the filter is that ok still?
Just like everything else built today, total trash..
Can u use atf+4 on this trans or no
Lifetime fluid. No change necessary. Reason for this is: once damage and wear is done, changing fluid won’t prolong the transmission life.
This synthetic fluid doesn’t break down.
Answer other questions in comments: there is no drain plug on original and there is no dipstick to refill through. The filter is built into the pan. It is plastic. Should only be replaced if it’s broken.
Also, saw a guy replace fluid after 150,000 miles and tows a boat. The fluid was clear and still looked new.
He felt better about having it done, but did realize it was unnecessary
This comment is dumb and there is a drain bolt on the pan 🤦♂️😂
great video! one thing to add. if you want to know if youve added the correct amount of fluid after performing all the steps check the fluid again once it reaches normal operating temp. it should be perfect, and if its a little low add a bit more fluid, if its a little high let some drain out.
I might have missed the part where you put some sort of chocks or blocks at the front tires---just in case? Otherwise I do like this video, thanks.
I just changed the gears from my gear selector
What is the torque spec???
Low. Like 12lbs.
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi as well any advice on why my transmission temp is over heating is going way up on how hot it gets I dont know why is doing that. Need some help thanks
Sounds like your low on transmission fluid
Process for changing the fluid in your transmission, run the engine and remove a plug which is next to a 1000 degree exhaust pipe, great design..
Smart to only use Mopar or ZF lifeguard fluid with such a particular trans. Some times we learn lessons the hard way when trying to cut some corners or using aftermarket options.
Bout to attempt this on my 2015 tradesman 1500. I have 112k on her. Got the Mopar oem pan and Mopar atf. Gonna use a battery powered fluid transfer pump. Anybody have problems with trans slipping with new fluid??
How’s the old girl holding up
They are life time fill. That's why mopar doesn't have a dip stick or fill tube. I work at a dealership and in Chryslers service library (the O.E. online service manual) the trans service is specific that it's for 6 speeds only. But if you have $800 for parts and can do it yourself fine.
There's no such thing if you have knowledge in metallurgy. The oil is going to gather metal shaving over time, possibly ceramic from clutch and various other rotating parts. Heat cycles will break down the oil, etc.
Lifetime warranty meaning it'll likely make it past the warranty period at an acceptable rate to remain profitable to sell.
It doesn't mean you can neglect servicing your vehicle.
Last nite the company who manufactured this transmission themselves said 60k miles before needing to replace pan, and oil. Either way, it doesn't matter to me what anyone does, but something to consider.
@ryanpark2049 with hydraulic oil it's normally sheer from tight tolerances that cause breakdown. If this is the transmission I'm thinking the filter is built into the pan. The filter and fluid are only changed in the event of internal parts replacement under a rebuild. They will last several hundred miles if not abused.
@@gofigure84
Well I'm not much of an oil analyst. I'm a tech, so the three main principles of what is the job of the oil are where I begin my thought process regarding it.
1. Lubricating the engine
2. Cooling/managing engine temps
3. Trapping metal particles
Therefore in my mind it makes sense to change well used oil for fresh. However I'm no expert man.
@ryanpark2049 transmissions and engines are very different as you well know. So the use and break down would logically be different. I'm a mechanic and have worked parts for dealerships for cars and tractors. Fun fact mix transmission fluid (small amount) in your oil and the inside of the engine will not brown because of the conditioners in it. Worked with a guy that in his 02 GMC did 5 qts oil 1 qt trans fluid since it was new. Well over 300k on it and the inside of the motor looks like it was just machined.
The mopar pan now 600 bucks. Nah! At that price might as well get the PPE.
Wouldn’t be so much extra work if they’d just give a dipstick with a fill tube like before. Freakin cost cutting.
Why do something so simple when they can create 1000 steps and 20 extra parts and a special extra expensive fluid? You think they have you the customer in mind?
Lifetime fluid is the best thing RAM ever invented. Not for you regular schleps that want your transmission to last for 300k miles but for guys like me with lifetime warranty I love the idea of getting a new transmission on RAMs dime every 150k or so miles :)
Cool
It’s lifetime because clutch material gets mixed with the trans fluid and work together in higher mileage transmissions. Removing that clutch material by draining and adding new fluid causes issues such as slipping. If you want to change filters or anything else between the pan and transmission you really should just re use the old fluid.
Can you point to anything to support that you shouldn’t change the fluid?
I feel like since you’re only changing half the fluid there is still enough friction in the fluid regardless of when you change it
You're supposed to hold at 2nd gear for 5 seconds.
So wait no gasket? Or rtv
Looks like the gasket is on the pan already, they’re thick rubber gaskets
No. Not in this case. The pan has an embedded gasket. Quite easy
Man what do I got to do to get you to switch to AMSOIL lol? You are so meticulous with everything else, why not the best fluids?
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I would suggest not chewing gum while you talk. Sounds like you were, if not, my bad.